Engine pictures

Hi guys!

I finally got it onto a stand, so here are some good pictures of what is currrently a mudpit.

I plan on cleaning it up, (hopefully) tomorrow, if I can find the time.

I cleaned one valvecover (I just couldn't resist working on it a LITTLE bit...)

Anyways, here are some pics. I'm pretty sure it's a 350, but I'm not positive. I'll post up the numbers when I get it clean so you can help me descipher them...I don't know what numbers/letters mean what yet.

http://http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0121.jpg

http://http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0119.jpg

http://http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0118.jpg

Here's just a random pic of me goofing off in the car while my friend had a camera, and has absolutely nothing to do with this thread. Enjoy, lol.
http://http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0112.jpg

Oh, can anyone tell me if they've ever come across headers like these before? How am I supposed to remove that bolt??! If I try to take it out, it runs right into the pipe!:mad:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0120.jpg

Thanks for all the help you all have been.:)

i am not sure of your car but if you pm me the last three digits off of the front of the motor on the block just infront of the left head when looking at it. I can look it up in my hollander interchange for you. it should be 3 letters. also as for that bolt make it the last and pull the headder out agianst the bolt the whole time or try vise grips either way it is better with a friend to help.

I had the same problem with an allen head bolt!
Solution...same as Cawb discribes....but i cut down (shorten) a 3/8 allen wrench...and pulled the header against the bolt as I unscrewed it! Oh use plenty of WD40.:D Did I mention it was a Craftsman allen wrench....no questions asked when I exchanged it!:rolleyes:

:eek::eek::eek:
That came out of your nova?
I've seen cleaner engines in 40 year old, neglected, held together with JB Weld and baling twine, farm trucks!

:D:D:D:D:D:D

Got any parts for dress up...or just paint and stuff it back in?

that pic driven through the windshield is great nox u a big ball of goof

Looks like you got some cleaning to do!!:eek::cool:

You might want to re-position your engine stand too; so it spins a little straighter when you try to flip it over. Try to center the weight so it doesn't want to flop over and hurt you.

looks like the heads have been done before... still has the heat tell/tales on the back of the heads. (little dime sized items on back of heads)

late model smogger engine... probably 76CC heads, 8-8.5-1 comp ratio... with the heads being done maybe the engine is already oversized... you'll know for sure once torn down.

The engine is a late 70's early 80's L82 ( normally a vette motor) Depending on the year, it could have some good stuff in it.. but the intake is aluminum - and actually sought after by a lot of people...

I thought later model engines were black if 350 and blue were all 305's? Totally off base?

from what I recall hearing, they were all orange in the 60s, in the early 70s, they were red, somewhere in the mid 70, they turned to blue, and in the 80s, black.

To center it, you need to mount it correctly on e the stand. You have the mounting pad mounted upside down on the back of the engine. The part of the stand mounting pad where te arms only move out side to side goes on the bottom. These arms mount to the lower 2 bellhousing bolt holes. The 2 arms that slide at an angle bolt to the upper holes on block. This way it centers the load of th engine on the stand and makes it alot safer, and easier to tunr over. Yep, definately has a little dusting to do on that one there.
Also, you may need some shorter bolts, I see that one of the bolts isn't tight, or even completely in the hole, the stand need to be mounted firmly to the engine, having loose bolts is dangerous. Use grade 8's from your hardware store. Also don't force a bolt into the threads, the block is pretty easy to crack by doing that. Measure the length of the spaces and add that to the thickness of the arm, then get bolts that are around 3/4" longer than that, or atleast add more washers to take up the space that you have in there now.

I tried to get my engine to look like that. super sleeper.

The engine is a late 70's early 80's L82 ( normally a vette motor) Depending on the year, it could have some good stuff in it.. but the intake is aluminum - and actually sought after by a lot of people...

how in the world did ya come up with this????:confused:

now you just need to get rid of the EGR:D

Heres a few sites to read. They will tell you all you need to know on what the motor is and what its from.
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html#camaro
http://www.camaros.org/index.shtml
http://www.chevy-camaro.com/

The engine is a late 70's early 80's L82 ( normally a vette motor) Depending on the year, it could have some good stuff in it.. but the intake is aluminum - and actually sought after by a lot of people...


With the dip stick on the drivers side and all the TVS's its a late 70's to early 80's like you say but I have never seen an aluminum intake rust like that, as far as from a Vette more than likely not. Its more than likely a 305

The fact that the valve covers are corporate blue makes me think it is probably a 305 also. Might be wrong but the odds are it is a 305.

now you just need to get rid of the EGR:D

Oh yeah, there's two little saucers on top of the engine that look alike...Which one's the EGR?:o

Thanks for the info on mounting the engine--I'll redo that asap, but first I want to get one of those plates that I can put on my intake manifold (in place of the carburetor)....Any idea where I can get one?

Ok, here's more pictures and some numbers.

The number on my block just behind the left head (driver's side).
42 GM 3970010
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0124.jpg

Here's the number just behind the carburetor on the intake manifold:
14007376 GM K2
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0125.jpg

Here is my firing order, which is printed on the intake manifold just in front of / kinda underneath the carburetor (which I thought was a REALLY nifty idea. :))
18436572

The valve covers, intake manifold, and (I'm pretty sure) oil sump are blue (I haven't cleaned the sump / pan yet...)

Thanks for all the replies, you guys are the bomb. :D

I'll have to ask my uncle (the one responsible for all this glorious, enjoyable mess) where the heck these headers came from...
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff169/nox3/000_0128.jpg

this(circled) is the EGR....:) I hate EGR...:bored::D

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/supernovanator/000_0119.jpg

Lol, yeah, me too...Even though I wasn't able to identify which it was.

My instructor was talking to us about how it worked.

"And it recycles the exhaust gasses, putting it back into your intake manifold".

At THAT, I cringed.

I thought about my engine, and said to myself, "No way in hell."

Lol.

I'm going to go take it off right now. :D

At THAT, I cringed.

I thought about my engine, and said to myself, "No way in hell."


that is EXACTLY what I thought when I first heard what the acronym stood for....:D

:awkward:as I'm degreasing my engine, I'm noticing that it's starting to get a little bit of surface rust on the places where there's bare metal...

So, do you think I should primer it untill I can rebuild?

I am pretty sure that primer would burn off.... probably a good wire brushing, then some engine enamel:)

where could I get this enamel?

And, if primer burns off (btw, though...I'm not going to put it in my car until after I rebuild it), then what do they put on before paint??:eek:

where could I get this enamel?

And, if primer burns off (btw, though...I'm not going to put it in my car until after I rebuild it), then what do they put on before paint??:eek:

First off the enamel can be found at autozone, checker, etc... pretty much every auto parts store:) Just look for a spray can with a pic of a motor on it;)

well... I am sure they dont put anything on... or at least no-one I know personally in the flesh has.... enamel is tough stuff...


(please someone correct me if I am wrong)

whoa! what's up with this?

There's a red badge on the left side of my block that says, "Remanufactured 491662"

3970010 350 68-73 high performance, trucks should be a four bolt main!

We had one with this cast # with an rv cam and it was a pretty good motor made lotsa low end power
ripem thru first and second in 4spd chevy pickup:cool:

as for the blue no idea seen lots of 350s 400s and 305s painted that color:)

whoa! what's up with this?

There's a red badge on the left side of my block that says, "Remanufactured 491662"


as for the blue no idea seen lots of 350s 400s and 305s painted that color:)

maybe targetmaster? the one in my garage back home was born blue...:confused:

With the dip stick on the drivers side and all the TVS's its a late 70's to early 80's like you say but I have never seen an aluminum intake rust like that, as far as from a Vette more than likely not. Its more than likely a 305

No, it's a 350 , either an L82 or L48 - the intake was available in aluminum or cast - and if its rusting its cast.. ( didn't see that) but has the same runners... so the engine is likely a L48 with a sae net of about 200 horses assuming it's all stock inside

maybe targetmaster? the one in my garage back home was born blue...:confused:

targetmaster from that time period would have "Hecho en mexico" on the block, right next to the engine casting - so it's a production motor - I am still betting on it being an L48 - we need the stamped numbers and letters from in front of the passenger side head OP... let us know

3970010 350 68-73 high performance, trucks should be a four bolt main!

We had one with this cast # with an rv cam and it was a pretty good motor made lotsa low end power
ripem thru first and second in 4spd chevy pickup:cool:

as for the blue no idea seen lots of 350s 400s and 305s painted that color:)

3970010 block ran a lot longer than 73 - ( 79 was the last year) and they came 2 or 4 bolt - it also could be a 302 with that casting ( but the color and the late model heads and intake say it's late 70's

Note to OP - the little tags glued to the back sides of the heads are warranty "poppers" they com apart if the engine is over heated - so the engine has been rebuilt by a mass production engine shop... probably has cast flat tops in it, and RV cam -

I had the same problem with an allen head bolt!
Solution...same as Cawb discribes....but i cut down (shorten) a 3/8 allen wrench...and pulled the header against the bolt as I unscrewed it! Oh use plenty of WD40.:D Did I mention it was a Craftsman allen wrench....no questions asked when I exchanged it!:rolleyes:

I just used a sawszaw....
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r257/BrokeChevy/DSCF1490.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r257/BrokeChevy/DSCF1498.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r257/BrokeChevy/DSCF1500.jpg

that 010 is a highly sought after block it is a good high nickel block its is the same castings that they used for the 5.0L Hencho en mexico 350 blocks. they ar good motors to stuff with an all forged bottom end and supercharge the hell out of it.

Ok guys--I'm going to clean it up more today, and I'll get those other numbers for ya.;)

This is exciting.:D

I was looking up numbers yesterday and I felt llike a detective.

EDIT: got the numbers. a-16-8. That means it was made on January the 16th of 78, right?

Yes... is there any numbers stamped on the flat part in front of the passenger head? Since the engine has been thru a engine building service, it may have been decked, so those numbers may not be there

Yes... is there any numbers stamped on the flat part in front of the passenger head? Since the engine has been thru a engine building service, it may have been decked, so those numbers may not be there

In front of? I'll go check right now.

EDIT: I didn't find any numbers stamped...I did find a yellow 9 (or something that looks like a nine) written on the front of the head. That's it (I think.)

No, It would be stamped into the block right in front of the passengers side head. if you looked straight down at the block from the top that is where it will be. Where the head bolts down and there is a little overhang on the head mating surface. Hope that helps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/ktownkid/aaa111.jpg

we spend the time and $ degreasing it??? are you not going to take it to a machine shop to atleast hone it and put new cam bearings in.. Spend the 40. and have EVERYTHING hot tanked !!! IMO

Bah, two bolt main.:bored:

Oh well. It'll still be sick.:p

And, to ask a question again...where can I get some factory paint for my engine?

Bah, two bolt main.:bored:

Oh well. It'll still be sick.:p

And, to ask a question again...where can I get some factory paint for my engine?

Autozone, Napa, Advanced, Wal-mart, etc.

All you need is engine enamel. They will state the make and color on the can. Such as Chevy orange

engine enamel? Is that paint or a clear coat?

Both its just like regular spray paint comes in most factory colors too should be at most auto parts stores:)

Normally I use to use the Autozone engine paint but when I freshened up the engine this fall I used their brake caliper paint and it looks so much better


this is with engine paint

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/twisted73/Picture002.jpg


this is with brake caliper paint


http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/twisted73/Picture0163.jpg

wow, thats one dirty girl:D

looks u got ur work worked out for you on that one.

its a good question, how do l properly mount an engine on a engine stand???? itd explain why every motor l have bends down a fair bit

Normally I use to use the Autozone engine paint but when I freshened up the engine this fall I used their brake caliper paint and it looks so much better


this is with engine paint

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/twisted73/Picture002.jpg


this is with brake caliper paint


http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/twisted73/Picture0163.jpg

Hey twistedpower,

I have the same style header, it looks like you have the power steering. I don't have the hoses, but it looks real tight.

yeah the power steering pump is about the only thing that is left from the drivetrain came from the factory with

I will be bringing my Nova to my house soon. I plan on pulling the engine and painting it and then setting up the 700r4 and put it all back toegther. Been pretty much gathering all the right parts for my motor trans combo I think Im ready to put it all together for a final install and just cruise next year. I will be posting pictures around winter time when I get it back on the stand for paint.

twistedpower

I like the brake caliper paint job you did it looks sharp btw. Im may have to try it out this winter and see how it comes out.

yeah the power steering pump is about the only thing that is left from the drivetrain came from the factory with

Hey twisted,

Would you post a picture of the P/S hose at the steering gear box? I would like to see what kind of clearance there is.

Thanks.