sheet metal everything...???

i want to completely sheet metal my 69 nova...lol

all of the trunk and floor pans...

how would i go about doing this? i am a decent welder. and dont mind taking my time. but my trunk is rotted. and floors are not the best. i would much rather have some lighter weight and more of a race look. i also will be doing a 10-point cage at the same time. no tub...

where could i get the metal for the floors and trunk?
and does anyone have a picture step by step to do this???

cheapest place for a weld-in 10-point?

hmmm...i don't know about sheet metal but i just put 4 new floor pans in my 73' and its really not as difficult as it sounds, just as so long as your a decent welder. I got repro. pans from chevy2only.com. Depending on the thckness of the sheetmetal your going to use will determine how you weld it as well. Since mine were steel i used a MIG welder with argon/Carbon dioxide shielding gas at a modest setting, if its set to hot your going to burn through your new metal. When you weld the pans you have to remember to alternate from one side to the next doing only about 1inch beads at a time otherwise u risk warping the metal. I'll be posting a quick "how to" in the "body and interior" section of this website including pics of my handy in a couple weeks. Good luck!

cool...im look out for the "how to"

but i wasnt planning on using stock floor pans. i wanted to completly take out all the flooring from the fire wall to the rear tail lights. not just cut out a sections and replace. where would i take the flooring out from i guess is what i need to know....

Replacing the entire floorpan with sheetmetal isn't something for the beginner.

You'll need a bead roller to for the sheet metal. Plain, flat sheetmetal isn't going to be strong enough to support your interior, yourself, and everything else...
The formation of the floor pans (rolls, bends, recesses, etc) are what gives them their stregth. You can't just cut out the old stuff and weld new, flat sheet metal into it's place. It will NOT be strong enough!

Most of the cars you'll find with FULL sheetmetal interiors are tube-chassis cars, back halfed, 4-link/coilover, etc. Different sections of sheetmetal are trimmed and attached via the custom tube frame, and the new (custom) rear frame rales.

It's going to be quite an undertaking replacing all your stock floor/trunk pans with sheetmetal. You'll have to pay very close attention to how your new pieces are formed to make sure you retain the structural integrity of the car...
You'll also have to fabricate custom bracketry for seat mounts to secure to subframe connectors/roll cage (or whatever) as sheet metal mounts won't suffice.

Also be thinking about how you are going to support the body once the entire floor pan, trunk panel, and rear frame rails are out of the car. It's gunna be some work keeping it from twisting/tweaking.

Can I ask why you want to go to a full sheet-metal interior?

Unless you plan to do a full back-half of the car, with giant wheel tubs and all that jazz I really can't see it doing you much good.
Will it save weight? Probably a little, but I can't see there being much. There are much cheaper and easier ways of saving weight.

Is this going to be a track-only car?
I'm assuming not since you said it will give your car "More of a race LOOK."

If it's going to see much street time, you'll hate it. The sheetmetal interior won't block engine/exhaust/road resonance...it will be LOUD!
It also won't block the heat of the engine compartment, and it will be quite cold to the touch on cold mornings! :eek:

Not to mention a roll cage isn't exactly the best thing for a street car. It will make your back seat pretty much un-usable. It also means you'll have door bars to crawl over to get in and out. Worst of all, you'll have solid steel tubes around your elbows and head....how do you think it will feel banging into those in an accident (without a helmet!)???

My advice? Go with some goodmark replacement panels and call it a day. It'll save a LOT of time and a LOT of headaches. It'll be easier to sell later on as well...not many people are looking for cut up cars (You'll only have racer appeal--and only if it's done well and done correctly!).

I have to agree with BSCman...the floors aren't going to save on a lot of weight. Most of the weight in these cars comes from the the hood, fenders, quarters and solid steel bumpers amongst all the other heavy duty steal including the roof and trunk. Your best bet is if your really concerned about weight is i know they make repro. fenders and hoods that are made of fiberglass, that will cut down on quite a few pounds. But hey if thats your dream then never mind this find a way to realize it and live it! Good luck again.

so after reading this and doing some research....i definitly agree.

thats why i ask some more expreienced people first. but im still going with the cage. i have had caged cars before. it dosnt bother me at all. but stock replacement floor pans will do.

and i found up22.com

i was wanting to do the doors, fenders, hood, and trunk lid all fiberglass. its actually preety cheap. most likely cheaper than doing the sheet metal project.

and i found up22.com

i was wanting to do the doors, fenders, hood, and trunk lid all fiberglass. its actually preety cheap. most likely cheaper than doing the sheet metal project.


First, you get what you pay for. Unlimited products are kind of like the K-mart of fiberglass parts.
Usually mediocre quality, a little wavy, mediocre fit, etc.

Keep in mind with a fiberglass hood you will need hood pins. Even those "bolt on" types that accept the stock hood latch still recommend hood pins--I know I would insist on them.
Fiberglass fenders really don't save too much weight--and you'll have to deal with cracking up mounting points at some point.

Many fiberglass doors won't accept factory door handles/latches. The ones that do are NOT designed to hold windows and regulators. So count on lexan/fiberglass side windows (which scratch EASILY) and won't roll up and down.
Again, you can count on the mounting points and latch area to start cracking out with a lot of use. Also, don't forget that puts one less piece of metal between you and another car if you get in an accident! :eek:

Not telling you that ya can't do it...but an all fiberglass car usually isn't as straight, will have durability issues over time, and sometimes can be more hassle that they're worth on a street car.

damn...all my plans are just getting shot down. lol...

so if there the K-mart...whos the wal-mart? or someone in between?

Glasstek and Harwood get a lot of praises around here.
You'll be happy you spent a few extra ****$ when you see the quality.

I'm not saying you can't sheet metal your car, or that you can't put in a cage and all fiberglass parts...by all means, do what you want!

Just realize there are certain sacrifices that are going to have to be made. That's what hotrodding is.

-Brett
Just helping you make an informed decision! :D

the sheet metal thing im not going to do.

but the fiberglass hood, fenders, and doors. i still think im going to go foward with. and if those doors dont work out...i'll still have the originals.

thanks for the tips though man...

If it were me...I'd opt for the fiberglass hood.
Spend the rest of the money you *would* have spent on doors/fenders and get nitrous or other performance parts. You'll get more bang for the buck if speed is your need. ;)