THE UNOFFICIAL UNISTEER RACK AND PINION THREAD (1st & 2nd Gen)

I am in the middle of my unisteer rack and pinion install right now at Dale's (teddisnoke) shop (thanks Dale!), and already have some small issues I would like to share. I will post some pictures tomorrow, and do a full report when Im done.

A quick background of my setup:
1) I have a 67 with a 383 and Hedman chassis headers, TH350
2) My car was originally a 6cy powerglide column shift
3) I bought a Unisteer Manual R&P PN 8000930-01
4) I bought a Unisteer Steering Linkage kit PN 8051030
5) I have CPP upper and lower A-arms

Teardown has gone smoothly. For a 67 the only note to make is the steering column needs to come out (or close to it) in order to remove the steering box. The parts that are removed for this job are:

1) Steering box
2) Steering linkage
3) Steering arms

The first issue I found upon installation deals with the steering arms for the R&P. The original steering arms have 1/2" bolts. The new steering arms have 1/2" holes, but the spacers and hardware provided are 7/16". I was a bit concerned about this and contacted Unisteer regarding their hardware. I was told the 7/16" would be "fine" as long as they were torqed to 85 lb-ft. This was not "fine" with me so I purchased 1/2" hardware, and drilled out the spacers. The original hardware will not work because the arms require spacers are used so you need longer bolts. The steering arms are also powdercoated so you may need to clean the holes up a bit as well.

The second issue I have is regarding the steering column kit. Unisteer does not have a kit for ANY column shift cars. I was not aware of this until now, so I am improvising to make it work. The phrase "floor shift cars only" appears on the directions for the rack kit, but this can be deceiving because what should be written is "floor shift columns only". When the directions say floor shift cars only, I originally thought that since my car is converted to floor shift (but still has the original column), I would be OK.

The issue with the column shift cars is that the "column saver" kit that is included with the rack will not fit. In a 67 column shift, the stock lower support bearing is ample support for the column, but the column shaft is a female 3/4" 36 spline. I think the floor shift 67 have a male 3/4" 36 spline, which would be ideal. The 62-66 cars need to cut and modify the steering shaft, and good directions are provided. I located a 3/4" 36 spline shaft that is splined on one side and smooth on the other. It is readily available from CPP.

I know pictures are worth 1000 words but be patient- Ill get them up ASAP. I am working on making the column shift cars work without replacing the column, and possibly work with CPP on making a kit (dont hold me to it just yet). WARNING: not everything from the kit is mocked up yet, so there could be additional issues- we'll see!

Quick summary of applications:

62-67 (Only floor shift columns at the moment): Unisteer Manual R&P PN 8000930-01

62-66 (Only floor shift columns at the moment) Shaft kit: PN 8051030

67 (Only floor shift columns at the moment) Shaft kit: PN 8051030 but replace one u-joint in the kit- exchange PN 8050330 (3/4" smooth to 3/4" DD) with 8050240 (3/4" 36 spline to 3/4" DD)

make sure i get lotsa pics to add to yer album ;)

Steering arm spacer
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000776.jpg

Steering arm
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000777.jpg

Stock steering arm bolt
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000778.jpg

Steering arm bolt from Unisteer
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000782.jpg

Steering arm bolt from hardware store
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000781.jpg

Steering arm installed
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000783.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000786.jpg

Stock steering arm reference measurements
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000790.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000791.jpg

Unisteer steering arm reference measurements
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000789.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000792.jpg

Make sure you save the clamp on the end of the steering column- it will be used to clamp the new short shaft to the column securely. Also, make sure your lower column bearing is in good shape- any slop in the bearing will be felt through the steering wheel, and could possibly cause binding in the steering linkage.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000798.jpg

Hey guys- Bryan is really putting alot of work into this install, I think mostly for all of us here. He's trying to figure out all the liittle issues that amount to big issues! We figured some cool little tricks along the way, like making custom tools to make the job smoother. It looks like it'll be a great addition to our Nova's. I cannot wait 'till he throws ME the keys to take it out when its done. Thats payment for using the shop!!:eek:;):D

I worked on the rack kit a bit more tonight. Next is the rack and bracket assembly. Make sure you support the engine and replace the frame mount bolts with the longer hardware provided one at a time. DONT MIND THE TOMMY GUN OIL PAN!!!LOL!!!
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000803.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000804.jpg

I found that if the bolts dont come out smoothly you need to support the engine one side at a time. The drivers side was easy, but the passenger side was a PIA.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000805.jpg

After the new bolts are in place, install the spacers provided before you put the rack assembly in place. Everything fit very well.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000806.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000807.jpg

The kit only included 4 washers total, so I had to dig up 4 more for the rack side. After that tighten it up!
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000810.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000811.jpg

Next install the rod ends into the new steering arms. I took a measurement of the radius for wheel clearance. WARNING: It appears you will have to run a 16" or larger wheel if you have more than 4" backspacing (referenced to the Chevy A-body brakes).
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000812.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000813.jpg

Here is what the rack looks like after it is installed
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000809.jpg

Make sure you check the fasteners on the rack and bracket assembly. I found one bolt that needed tightening.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000814.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000815.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000817.jpg

Again, Bonnie and Clyde paid me a visit and brought me an oil pan!
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000818.jpg

Next is the steering linkage bracket. It is an L shaped bracket that fastens to the existing holes where the steering box used to mount. You might as well throw away the bolts they give you- they are too short! Use the original bolts for the steering box along with the provided spacers- they fit perfectly. The bracket has a threaded hole for the provided heim joint. The heim joint supports the steering linkage because you use 3 u-joints rather than the traditional 2.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000823.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000824.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000825.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000826.jpg

I started to mock up the steering linkage, and things are looking good as far as header clearance! I am still waiting on a couple parts so when they come in I will know for sure. Keep in mind I run Hedman chassis headers. Also keep in mind that the manual rack uses a different u-joint than the power rack (9/16 26 spline instead of 17mm DD).
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000827.jpg

More to come!

I hope you didn't allready answer this but will this kit work with a stock front sump?

I hope you didn't allready answer this but will this kit work with a stock front sump?

I havent addressed this since I dont have a front sump pan. I will take some reference measurements from the front x-member to the rack for you so you can check to see if it fits.

The rack doesn't fit a front sump pan, Ive tried

The rack doesn't fit a front sump pan, Ive tried

Thanks for the insight. I think you are atlking about a 6cyl front sump. It seems that this rack would fit a front sump V8, although I am not 100% sure. Please give some additional insight.

Thanks.

I am dying for the drive report :) Good luck with the rest of the install- I am SERIOUSLY considering this setup.Ty for the detailed report so far-and the great pictures :)

Thanks again to Dale for helping me out! We set up the steering linkage over the weekend, and I should be driving her home today! Keep in mind these modifications are likely not necessary if you have an aftermarket or floor shift column.

I received a short 3/4 shaft that was 36 spline on one side and smooth on the other for the steering column output.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000853.jpg

The shaft needs to be cut down so it is splined on both sides, and filleted to accomodate the clamping bolt on the u-joint and the column. Fillet the shaft first, making sure the end does not protrude through the back of the u-joint. The remaining shaft can be put in the column pretty deep.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000855.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000856.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000857.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000875.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000861.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000862.jpg

After the shaft is filleted and cut down, you need to cut a flat in the proper index to accomodate the female flat in the steering column shaft. I held the custom shaft up to the column shaft and marked it as shown.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000871.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000870.jpg

Also, the steering box splines are slightly smaller in diameter than the new shaft splines. I used a paper sanding bit with a dremel to shave them down a bit. Here are the original shaft measurements:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000866.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000867.jpg

After the column output shaft is complete, install it in the column and attach the u-joint on the column.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000877-1.jpg

I found that the lower column bearing in the plastic housing was not as secure as I hoped, so I used a clamp to tighten things up. I am unsure on how long this will last, so an aftermarket column may be in my future :(
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000882.jpg

Since I used my floor shift column, I had to shorten the intermediate steering shaft for proper steering linkage length and alignment. Remember to measure twice and cut once!
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000875.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000879.jpg

After the intermediate shaft is complete, install all the linkage (its a tight fit!), and make sure your u-joints are in phase.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000880.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000881.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/P1000882.jpg

The shaft kit has clearance of about 1/4" between the header and down shaft, and the u-joint and frame rail. Make sure to use the adjustable heim joint and support bracket to its full potential. It will take some time to get it right. Make sure your u-joints are not working at more than 35 degrees.

Next- TEST DRIVE!!!

Well my test drive did not go so well today. The steering is binding in places, and I have determined the lower bearing assembly on the stock column cannot support the load of a floating u-joint. You will need to use an aftermarket or floor shift column with this kit. When I had the suspension at ride height and jacked up it was smooth as silk, but when the tires are on the ground it is too much load for the column. Oh well, cant say I didnt try!

So far...

Pros- Steering is VERY responsive with no slop, and is much more pleasant to drive.

Cons- I lost a slight amount of turning radius, and I felt a very slight amount of bumpsteer when I was turning a corner through a dip.

I have a new column on the way to resolve my binding issue. I will keep it posted.

Overall, if the column resolves my problem, I think this R&P kit would be a good investment if the R&P, steering linkage, and column were sold as a package deal. Maybe all for $1100...???

I have a new column on the way to resolve my binding issue. I will keep it posted.


What column did you buy?:eek::beer:

$1100? Wow that seems like a lot for a R+P set up. Seems like a little more cash will get you a new front clip with R+P. Glad to see you are making headway with the kit. I was very close to being the Ginny Pig on this one, I am now glad I opted not to. Having Dales shop must be a huge help. Can’t wait to see the final product, good luck!

What column did you buy?:eek::beer:

I bought an ididit.

$1100? Wow that seems like a lot for a R+P set up.

I dont think $1100 is not all that bad for a COMPLETE package including the column and linkage. Add up what it would cost to rebuilt the entire stock linkage, steering box, and steering column, and you will find that it is not much less, and there is no dramatic improvement in steering.

Seems like a little more cash will get you a new front clip with R+P.

More like a LOT more cash! The front clip kits are not complete, and all the little parts you have to buy to make it complete can cost about as much as the kit you started with!

Hey Brian,

So a stock column shift won't work? How many more headaches do you think there would be with the power rack?

Hey Brian,

So a stock column shift won't work?

Nope- I just received my IDIDIT column today. Im going to mock it up then give it to my buddy to paint. The stock column shift column will not work as far as I know. As I stated before, Unisteer says that the car must be floor shift- they neglect to say a floor shift column (or aftermarket column). I tried to make it work but I hit a brick wall!

How many more headaches do you think there would be with the power rack?

I dont think there is much different with the power rack besides the hydraulic plumbing, resevoir, and pump. Then again, I dont know for sure.

Hey Brian, what ididit column did you get? I see here are a few that will work. The rack set up cost $900 and it looks like the column goes for $340 to $600 depending on wich one you get. I would like to check you car out when it is all done. I was told that the rack set up wont work with my headers. I really dont have any complaints about the stock steering but it would sure be nice to have a R&P in there. How is it coming?

I got the cheapest Ididit column, and the manual R&P kit was on sale at CPP for $700 (dont know if it still is). You also have to buy the steering shaft kit, which is another $200-250 (cant remember right now). Thats why I mentioned it would be nice to sell all three as a package for around $1100. I think it will be another week or so before I get the car back on the road for another test drive!

Any updates?

Has anybody else used this Unisteer kit yet?

Any updates?

Has anybody else used this Unisteer kit yet?

YES< contact TooManyReels who is on this site. I have been in contact with him and he is currently working with the whole set up. He has had many problems with the kit but over all I think it could be the missing link. mIm just waiting for NOGO and or TooManyReels to finish theirs..:D

Keep us posted on this. I would like to put this under my car. Can you run any oil pan with this kit or do you have to run a chevy ll pan. That is the one thing I would like to get reed of.

Just wanted see if there has been anything new to report on this project. I would be very interested in a combo like this- R&P that works with CPP Lower control arms.

The rack kit is coming off!!!!

This rack kit works, but not well. Here are the main issues I had:

1) The steering linkage does not fit well around headers and the u-joints bind up.

2) The turning radius is compromised, and I cant make a u-turn on a 4 lane road.

3) You need to use channel locks to adjust toe because there are no flats on the rack rods. Toe adjustment is very limited because the tie rod ends are very small. I could not adjust my toe properly and keep the rack centered.

4) Unisteer did not stand behind their products and gave me the runaround when I confronted them about my issues.

I would not recommend using this rack kit. I am taking it off, and putting the new flaming river steering box and column kit on my car. I will start a new write-up for it...

Keep us posted on this. I would like to put this under my car. Can you run any oil pan with this kit or do you have to run a chevy ll pan. That is the one thing I would like to get reed of.

You can run a standard oil pan with this rack kit.

You can run a standard oil pan with this rack kit.

If i'm reading this thread right, it really doesn't matter that you can run a standard pan since the kit don't work worth a s#!t.

Or am I missing something here?

If i'm reading thread right, it really doesn't matter that you can run a standard pan since the kit don't work worth a s#!t.

Or am I missing something here?

You are correct! I just wanted to answer the question...

You are correct! I just wanted to answer the question...

o.k., just checking.:D:D

Brian,
DUDE!!! sorry to here that after all the time and effort put in the kit is going to the trash... I think TooManyReels got his hooked up and working great but is just having header clearance issues??? Im sure you probably contacte dhim regarding the kit. I am currently in the market for the upper and lower A arm kit and will reffer to your write up. Now as far as I know this (A arm) kit is still a good idea?
Later JR

Brian,
DUDE!!! sorry to here that after all the time and effort put in the kit is going to the trash... I think TooManyReels got his hooked up and working great but is just having header clearance issues??? Im sure you probably contacte dhim regarding the kit. I am currently in the market for the upper and lower A arm kit and will reffer to your write up. Now as far as I know this (A arm) kit is still a good idea?
Later JR

Hey JR,

If your refering to the CPP kit ,i'd say it's not a good idea:no::no:


It's a great idea:yes::yes:

It's a great idea:yes::yes:

Yup!!!!! :yes:

The rack kit is coming off!!!!

This rack kit works, but not well. Here are the main issues I had:

1) The steering linkage does not fit well around headers and the u-joints bind up.

2) The turning radius is compromised, and I cant make a u-turn on a 4 lane road.

3) You need to use channel locks to adjust toe because there are no flats on the rack rods. Toe adjustment is very limited because the tie rod ends are very small. I could not adjust my toe properly and keep the rack centered.

4) Unisteer did not stand behind their products and gave me the runaround when I confronted them about my issues.

I would not recommend using this rack kit. I am taking it off, and putting the new flaming river steering box and column kit on my car. I will start a new write-up for it...

Thanks a lot.

Here are some photos of a rack conversion kit not yet available to the public. It will be available through www.churchboysracing.com. The kit is bolt-on with minimal fabrication. It changes from rear steer to front steer, and is currently in it's final testing stages. There are no issues with Ackerman, or bumpsteer. The kit is currently being tested on a '67 Nova drag car, with a coil-over front suspension,with stock control arms, and modified strut rod, and a '63 Nova street car. For more info, email novasteering@aol.com.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i213/STIKAMAN/10.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i213/STIKAMAN/13.jpg

Hey Guys,
I am sceptical about this Unisteer rack situation. I bought the Unisteer rack setup and I have installed it. It looks like it should work fine. I also have the CPP upper and lower kit too. I have not driven the car yet, but it all looks like it should work fine. I talked to Unisteer at length about their rack setup and I just don't understand why NOGO had so much trouble with it. What is it about it that is messed up? He said about the turning radius being limited... is there not enough travel in the rack or is the steering linkage binding up? I have fenderwell headers on my car. Linkage issues with headers are not a problem. I am not trying to discredit NOGO's review of the product:o I am just trying to get more percise information on the supposed pitfalls of the product considering that I invested in it too. I know Unisteer built and designed this kit from the ground up and actually tested it and had it on a first gen Nova for a while before they released it. None of these problems where noted. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.:)

NOGO did you phase align the steering joint..If not this will help with the binding if they are out of phase. Flaming River's site has article on this unless you arlready know about phase aligning...Are your header an issue with the alignment of the steering shaft (mine were) to the rack joint..I had to play with this a lot which was creating some of the binding issue as well...This is where most my binding was along with the phase alignment..

Once that was corrected my kit has worked well..One thing I need to do the next time I have to have the front end align is to center my R&P left to right (something I did not think about during installations) and then set the alignment,,,I'm off a littler to the right turn....If I recall the total turns from the center positions left to right, is one and a half turns,,,,Does this sound right for your kit...Or is it two full turns...

I sent you a PM and I'll be happy to call you to discuss in more detail..

TooManyReels
Eddie

There are some photos of the R&P installed on my 63 while the motor is out of the car...Let me know if you have any questions..

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/Esells7616/100_0376.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/Esells7616/100_0375.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/Esells7616/100_0374.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/Esells7616/100_0373.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/Esells7616/100_0371.jpg

This last photo is how I had to modify the header (HOK-2122)on the driver side to get enough clearance to clear the steering shaft and so my R&P system works...

TooManyReels
Eddie

This unisteer kit does not have the rack travel to give you the movement you will need to have the same turning radius as the stock steering system. To some this may not be as important as to others. When I cannot make a u-turn on a 4 lane road this bothers me.

This kit will not work (well) with off the shelf chassis headers. The steering linkage will bind up. You can have custom headers made to compensate for this, but it is an additional cost. Eddie had a nice set of custom headers made and has had good results with his steering smoothness.

I feel that this kit is not worth the pitfalls that come along with it. I am looking into other steering options right now. I found the FR box and column kit will not bolt on a 67, so I am back at square one!


Eddie,

Thanks again for you insight!

1964novass-- The best I can tell if you run Fenderwell headers you want run into the problems that NOGO and I ran into....With Chassis headers the steering shaft runs right into the #3-5 header pipe when you try to run your shaft over to the R&P spline...I have three joints becased I used my existing steering shaft...Had I know what kind of problems I was going to run into I may have installed a long main steering shaft and reduced the number of steering joints..

Once installed the kit is very tight turning at first and is difficult to turn in tight spots....According to Unisteer they designed the kit this way and the kit will losen up over time..I think NOGO biggest problem was with the fact that you lave limited wheel turns left to right as compaired to a stock steering box...Which makes turning or backing into a tight driveway or garage his biggest gripe...

I'm happy your kit is working for you..How do you like the steering/handling...
Eddie

I was hoping to buy unisteers power r&p kit this spring. But after reading this thread I'm going to think about it a little more before I cough up the money. Thanks for putting this thread up.

Just to keep people informed...

The Unisteer kit does not perform to what I consider are "reasonable" standards. I feel so strongly about this that I still have the kit in my garage and refuse to sell it even for $1 because I do not want others to have the same issues as I have experienced.