3rd Gen Shifter Hump

I'm converting to a factory style shifter. I had the shifter hump welded in when the floor pans were done. Now when I mock up the shifter the lever is hitting the trans when I go to put it in what would be first gear. I think it the hump is about an inch too far forward.

I used this site and this picture to determine the front of the hump should be 6.5" from the floor seam. But I think instead of the actual seam, I started the 6.5" where the seam sealer starts. Does htis appear to be what I did?

Do you guys think it is possibe to have the lever modified (bent so that it will work? Or should I have the hump moved?

http://www.novashop.net/info/console.htm

http://www.novashop.net/images/console/seat_mounts.gif

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141012/shifterhump.JPG

Mine is 6.5" back from that seam,just like your pic,but it's a 69.Your hump looks different then mine.I think 72 uses the kick out style console.Sorry I can't be more help.:(

Your hump should be the style without the kick out for 72. Looking at the shift pattern and assuming you mean the shifter is hitting the shift hump when you go into first and not the tranny I have to ask does it hit the hump when you go into 3rd or reverse and if not how close does it come? How close is it to the hump in 2nd and 4th? It sounds like you are back a little to far and this is going to cause all kinds of issues when you start to put your interior together as the console mounting points will all be off! You would have to move the console further forward on the hump to make it all work and it might not have enough play in its mounting.

Your hump should be the style without the kick out for 72. Looking at the shift pattern and assuming you mean the shifter is hitting the shift hump when you go into first and not the tranny I have to ask does it hit the hump when you go into 3rd or reverse and if not how close does it come? How close is it to the hump in 2nd and 4th? It sounds like you are back a little to far and this is going to cause all kinds of issues when you start to put your interior together as the console mounting points will all be off! You would have to move the console further forward on the hump to make it all work and it might not have enough play in its mounting.
Every source I have seen sells the same hump for 68 to 74. I am aware that 72 didn't originally have the kickout, but that's not the issue. But let me clarify first that I am putting in a stock automatic shifter and have a TH350. And yes, when I put it in first gear (all the way towards the rear of the car) the lever moves forward and hits the trans.

The console mounting points shouldn't be a problem since they are on the trans hump and everything mounts off of there. Does this make sense?

Every source I have seen sells the same hump for 68 to 74. I am aware that 72 didn't originally have the kickout, but that's not the issue. But let me clarify first that I am putting in a stock automatic shifter and have a TH350. And yes, when I put it in first gear (all the way towards the rear of the car) the lever moves forward and hits the trans.

The console mounting points shouldn't be a problem since they are on the trans hump and everything mounts off of there. Does this make sense?

The only remanufactured hump sold is the one without the kick out. I actually have a 74 hump with the kick out and should probably take pictures of the one in my car and that one side by side so we can get that in the archives.

OK now that I know we are talking auto it makes a lot more sense with the rod hitting the "tranny" since the shifter is actually bolted to the hump. That says you are still to far back though! Short of refabricating the arm on the bottom of the shifter your only other option is to move the hump forward. :beat: While moving the hump forward using the measurement from the correct point would be the correct way, if your not a body man it can turn into a mess real quick! If my grandfather was still around he would just say don't put it in first manually let the tranny do it for you! That doesn't work well on the drag strip or when you want to do a nice burn out though! While most of the mounting points on the console are on the shifter hump their is a front mounting bracket! You start moving this mounting bracket further forward and it will start to raise the front or your console. Now since you are back to far I don't think it will have to much of an affect other than maybe lowering the front of the console a hair. Your carpet should make up any differences in curvature of the tunnel in the area that it would be hardly noticeable.

Sorry, to hear you are having trouble with my measurements. My first thought is what does your linkage look like? any photos? The geometry of your linkage may be able to be corrected. I am wondering if your linkage is hitting not you shifter arm? If that is the case maybe flipping over the linkage or trimming it may help. What tranny are you using?

I have mounted my shifter hump 6.5" back from the middle of the seem. If you look at your picture, there is too ribs at the seem, I started my measurement from the middle of that seem. From my memory that is where I measured that 69 from and made that diagram. If so it may be mounted 1/2" to far forward, But I am surprised that 1/2" would make such a big difference, if so, I should add a better description to my website.

Jack

I have mounted my shifter hump 6.5" back from the middle of the seem. If you look at your picture, there is too ribs at the seem, I started my measurement from the middle of that seem. From my memory that is where I measured that 69 from and made that diagram. If so it may be mounted 1/2" to far forward, But I am surprised that 1/2" would make such a big difference, if so, I should add a better description to my website.

Jack

So you measured from where I put this line? If so that explains it.

I will take a picture of the shifter arm tomorrow and post it. But it is definitely the shifter arm because I have not installed the linkage yet.

Thanks for your input, I'll post that picture tomorrow.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141012/shifterhump2.JPG

Yep, that line is about right. If you have not installed your linkage yet, I would test that before you change anything, the shifter may not have to go back that far for first gear, depends on the linkage and the tranny.

Yep, that line is about right. If you have not installed your linkage yet, I would test that before you change anything, the shifter may not have to go back that far for first gear, depends on the linkage and the tranny.That sounds like very sound advice and I will take it.

As promised here is a picture of the shifter and the arm. I am pointing to about where the arm hits the trans.

Wow am I glad I checked in, I'm going to install my hump in my car tomorrow and wasn't 100% sure about the measurements. I'm using the same info you have from NovaShop.net.

I purchased a factory 1969 SS shifter off ebay with all the brackets, linkage and console. I purchased the hump from Greenwood Chev.

I was taking measurement last night and the measurement from the inside door jams aren't even close? What am I missing here? So have you made any adjustments and if so what were they? Should it be from the middle of the seam not the actual floor pan seam? I was going to scrap the seal sealer off to locate the exact seam location but is that necessary if you are go from the middle? Where your red line is shown?

Thanks!
Chad

How should the hole to be cut out for the shifter arm be located in the floor?

Once the hump is located, mark the outside edges, remove it, bolt the shifter in the hump and then measure from the outside edge of the hump as a reference guide?

Thanks again.

I'm installing a 700r4. Any issues I should be aware of that will affect my plan of using a factory shifter before I weld in the hump?

I purchased the kit from shiftworks for the proper shift selector.

I'm 6'-2", can I install the shifter further back without compromising the functional operation of the shifter.

It appears the measurement should be made from where my red line is. I took my car to a shop a friend has and he was able to move the hump the necessary inch or so so that all the linkage would line up properly. I haven't seen it yet, he called me today to tell me it's done. I should get over to see it within a few days.

I had the shop that originally installed the hump cut the opening as large as possible. Otherwise you would have a ledge there that could possibly collect crap and debris. What he did was trace the utline of the hump, and then scribe another line about an inch IN from there. Then cut along that line.

I cannot attest as to what issues may arise with a 700R4.

As far as moving the shifter because your 6 ft 2, I don't think you'd need to move it, it's not like your Shaq or anything. I'm 6'1" and wouldn't even consider it a problem.

Sounds good. Thanks for the information.

Don't worry about your height, I'm 6'1" as well, and have no problem with the shifter location.

I sympathize with you guys, as I needed to re-install the hump in the '69. However, I had the two factory holes for the console's front bracket to key off of. Otherwise, it's tough to do, my hats off to ya.

M

I stopped by and looked at my car. I didn't measure it but it definitely looks like he moved it 1" back. So just measure 6.5" from right between the two humps and you should be golden.

Will do. I let you know how it goes. Hoping to get it in this week as I'm done running my new motor on my test stand and now I'm motivated to get it in!!

hey guys, this measurment is for automatics or four speeds, right?:confused:

hey guys, this measurment is for automatics or four speeds, right?:confused:

I believe they are the same.

thanks taz. i had to put a new tunnel in mine and i need to cut my hole out today. :D

Well i got my hump installed over the weekend. I also installed the new detent in the shifter from shiftworks which converts it to work with my 700R4.

Just wondering: should I get some pictures of it for use anywhere here on the site for future reference? Before I seamseal it.

One piece of advice I'd like to offer to others is: When cutting out your hole in the floor pan be careful if you use a reciprocating saw when you're at the back. Once I located the new hump I marked the outside, then removed it and marked a line about 1 inch inside that. When cutting it out I got a little carried away at the back and cut a small section of the cross over support. Ooopppsss. Not that much but still.

Just in case anyone needs more info or a visual. On mine I could see the actual seam below the seamsealer so it was easy to tell where to take the front measurement from.

I have it painted and will take more pictures of it and from below this weekend.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd149/haymel69/Nova/Interior/copy8-30-07022.jpg

I guess I was fortunate - my car still had the two holes up front for the console bracket. So, I simply bolted the console down, and positioned the hump so the rear of the console would bolt to it! I feel for you guys, it's hard to find a good reference point for these types of measurements.

M

I guess I was fortunate - my car still had the two holes up front for the console bracket. So, I simply bolted the console down, and positioned the hump so the rear of the console would bolt to it! I feel for you guys, it's hard to find a good reference point for these types of measurements.

M

Up front? I thought the bracket went in the rear? I guess I'll have to look closer at that this weekend.

FYI, if anyone is looking for parts for these factory auto shifters, shiftworks is a great source!!

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd149/haymel69/Nova/Interior/shifter.jpg

Yea, there are two holes in the tunnell in front of the seam seal line for the console attaching bracket. There are no riv-nuts like the Camaro's, just two holes in the floor for the sheet metal screws. This bracket will hold your console to the floor, the rear of the console will get screwed to the hump.

M