Lowering blocks

What are everybodys toughts on using lowering blocks? And is there a coat effective, (YES I MEAN CHEAP), alternitive you have used???:p

I think a lot of us use them. I have for years without any adverse effect.

They are fine, you need to use u-bolts with them.

What are everybodys toughts [sic] on using lowering blocks? And is there a coat [sic] effective, (YES I MEAN CHEAP), alternitive [sic] you have used???:p

What could be cheaper than a rugged block of metal that you can bolt into your rear suspension, whereas weaker wood wouldn't work well.

They are fine, you need to use u-bolts with them.

that is what people say but I know my '69 had 1.5" lowering blocks, slappers, AND "J" bolts...so I know it CAN be done:)

thats about the best cheapest way and its like 30 bucks at autozone and they come with u bolts.

I admit that I had wood blocks on my 64 for a few weeks.:eek: :rolleyes:

I wouldn't advise that for anything long term. The blocks at Autozone are cheaper than a tank of gas and should serve the purpose well.

But I do think making wood blocks is useful if you want to see what different lowering levels would look like without buying a bunch of different sized metal blocks.

-Aaron

I literally cut down a big hunk of metal to use for my lowering blocks. It's been fine for a couple years.

Kev

I literally cut down a big hunk of metal to use for my lowering blocks. It's been fine for a couple years.

Kev

ya thats what mine were too, solid piece of machined steel with a locating pin pressed in...they were in the car from 1979 to about 2005 when I pulled the car apart:)

Short J(T)- bolts are fine, but when you go long by adding the lowering blocks you really should have something a little more stable. They're cheap enough and probably right next to the blocks down at the auto store.

Short J(T)- bolts are fine, but when you go long by adding the lowering blocks you really should have something a little more stable. They're cheap enough and probably right next to the blocks down at the auto store.

I'm not talking about "T" bolts like came on the Car origianlly I'm talking "J" bolts like the one below....much better then "U" or "T" bolts IMHO

here is a sample of a "U" bolt

And finely here is a sample of the factory style "T" bolt

I'm not talking about "T" bolts like came on the Car origianlly I'm talking "J" bolts like the one below....much better then "U" or "T" bolts IMHO

I've never understood why a j-bolt may be better than a u-bolt. Spreading out the bolt's clamping load that far from the axle tube by using a j-bolt can't be any stronger than using a u-bolt can it? :confused:

I've never understood why a j-bolt may be better than a u-bolt. Spreading out the bolt's clamping load that far from the axle tube by using a j-bolt can't be any stronger than using a u-bolt can it? :confused:
Ya wouldnt think so, i would think the u bolt would be stronger, sturdier but ?:confused: maybe the the material for certain j bolts is a better quality?

Well my understanding is that the J bolts are the better setup with slappers then U bolts are...BUT exactly why I guess I dont know:confused::p

Hmmmm maybe MHO before isnt worth the time it took to type it:o

Now with that said the J bolts I pictured above are 1/2" in dia I'm pretty sure your average U bolt is not that large but then again I actually have no proof of that:o

To me the U-bolt is better for general use and maybe even with traction bars.

I do see a slight advantage of the j bolts when using traction bars. Some traction bars allow the use of j bolts and the J style better supports the traction bar when force is applied to it.

But overall It seems like the j-bolt wouldn't position the rear axle housing as well since it is only wrapped around on one side.

My opinion: No Traction bars = U-Bolts........Traction Bars = Both U-bolts and J-bolts if possible.

I doubt you'll have any problems either way you go though, I'm just picky and thinking too much.

-Aaron

To me the U-bolt is better for general use and maybe even with traction bars.

I do see a slight advantage of the j bolts when using traction bars. Some traction bars allow the use of j bolts and the J style better supports the traction bar when force is applied to it.

But overall It seems like the j-bolt wouldn't position the rear axle housing as well since it is only wrapped around on one side.

My opinion: No Traction bars = U-Bolts........Traction Bars = Both U-bolts and J-bolts if possible.

I doubt you'll have any problems either way you go though, I'm just picky and thinking too much.

-Aaron


Now I could be mistaken but I'm not sure that you can use J bolts without slappers...with the regular lower spring plate the holes are not spaced correctly for anything other than T bolts or U bolts...but I've been wrong before:p

Oh and yes some slappers do allow the use of both J and U bolts at the same time...;) :)

Right you are, I didn't quite think that through. :rolleyes:

Gotta have traction bars for J bolts.

I believe Lakewood Competition bars are the ones that can use both U and J bolts at once.

-Aaron

I believe Lakewood Competition bars are the ones that can use both U and J bolts at once.

-Aaron

I think your right:)

If your worried about strenght, I wouldn't. Was talking to Greg D (aka FASTNUF) and hey was runninng a 2" block on his to set it where he wanted, and he used to run a 9 sec quarter and drive it on the street.

Duane my cars just a 6 so I am not worried I just want to bring the arse end down so she sits low & level, I did the 2" drop sindles up front..
Thanks all for the input:cool: