How to install Sub Frame Connectors?

In the next couple of weeks I'm gonna install a front sway bar and the dshop2000 Sub Frame connectors.Is there anything I should know about instaliing the sub frame connectors?Do I need to get the whole car jacked up off the floor level?Any advice is appreciated.Thanks bm

BM,
I took mine to a muffler shop, they put it on a lift and raised the car with all the weight on the wheels. There are other ways to do it but this guarantees the loads and spacing are right. I also had my carpet out to put bucket seats in and had them weld the seat brackets. Both jobs cost less than $100 :) . Well worth the money.

If you don't take the carpet out, you will have to find some way to keep it cool during the welding process. And check it often. NOGO can tell you how that goes ;) .

Bob

take the time to clean up the area around where they weld in. If there the weld in type. By the looks of your car there probably won't be much clean up to do:) .As for leveling thats how I do it is jackstand it up and get it level.When its up in the air and were you want it, open and close your doors make sure they seem fine and not bound up. Should be a fun project though take pics when your done.

I don't know exactly what you are going to do with this car but I just finished up a set of sub frame connectors on my nephews car and I followed what Real McCoy on this site done to his Top Stock car he is building. I used 2X3 box tubing and I even tied them in to the Rockers and They turned out great.
I think I got 75 dollars In tubing and a little fab time but they have got some of my dads buddys wanting me to do their car like it. Look up Real McCoy on the site and he can direct you to the pics I used on his site. RC

Gonna make that bad boy badder huh?!!?:)

Wait until you enter into that first turn. You're going to $hit! With the CPP kit and the frame stiffer it'll feel like you're driving a BMW! The only problem is now that your frame will be stiffer you're going to want to start playing with different springs and shock valving although before that you may want to look into a sway bar unless you've already changed out the stock one!

Congrats Bruce! You'll love it!

John

P.S. I see a set of Nitto 555's or BFG KDW2's in your future! LOL!!!:D

Thanks guys!!
So I got 2 answers....1 off the ground with the weight off the wheels and 1 with the weight on the ground??Anyone else wanna break the tie?Also...these are the bolt in type.The can be welded in but they will be powder coated and I don't want to ruin the paint.thanks bm
Ps....I'll be doing an addco 1" sway bar up front and u bolts out back at the same time.

So pretty soon the Batmobile will handle AND go fast. Very impressive.:)

Hey bm, I bought the same sub frame connectors from Dshop2000. I bolted them in with the car up on jack stands. It was pretty simple, I did have to do some trimming of the parking brake bracket under the driver seat. Mine are bolted, but eventually I plan on welding them in. You will also need to re-route the parking brake cable either above, below, or through the sub frame connector. Johnny rigged his up pretty nice, he went through the connector.

Hey, you can drop your car off at my house for a while and I can put them on for you!!! :D :D

Your car is SWEET!

So pretty soon the Batmobile will handle AND go fast. Very impressive.:)Looking forward to better handling!!!
Anybody out there run a rear sway bar on a second gen?Is it needed?
Still looking for the tie breaker answer too!!On the ground with weight on the wheels or off the ground with wheels hanging?thanks bm

Bruce, My subframe connectors were already installed when I bought the car, so I can't help by direct experience. Now, whenever I do something of this nature, I always get the car as level as possible but with the wheels fully weighted. That way the installation replicates the conditions (suspension loading, mainly) the car will be under most of the time.

Chuck

Hey Bruce,
I too think you should have the car's full weight on the suspension. That mufler shop idea (using their drive on hoist) sounds like a good plan. Or put you car up on four jack stands (under the suspension of course) or two ramps and two jack stands......thats how I did mine. I just made my own sub frame connectors out of 2" square tube. Paid about $20.00 for it. You better get that carpet out of there though. I don't want you burning that car to the ground.

Well was going to tell you the car is better leveled with the jack stands under the suspension. If that makes sence. I guess someone already posted that I didn't read them all till now. Still try your doors.

I use these home made boxes. Just level them before you do the work. RM
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/RealMcCoy099/setupbox1.jpg

Pretty good timing on the thread Batman09...Wuz gonna install my comp engineering subframe connectors tomorrow...I guess with the interior gutted, glass out and only the rearend, wheels and suspension hangin' (no motor or tranny in), it woulda' been kinda' hard ta mimick loads and spacing...:rolleyes: Wonder what woulda' happened when I put all the aforementioned parts back in:eek:

Hey Guys check this subframe connector setup out... @ $225.00 for the things they are not the cheapest but they look like they would do the trick...

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Factory/3185/

I like Reals way, I've done it two ways, both have worked.

Jacked the car up in the air, stands under rearend and stands on a-arms (simulating on the ground) and welded them.

My current on with no driveline so it sat up in the air, I held them snug with a jack with it on the ground, put some heavy tack welds on them, then jacked it up and fully welded them. Since I'm doing body work now I'll just line everything up know.

Biggest thing, if you have it up in the air, open and close your doors before you weld up, try lifting the connector with a jack a little and see if it makes you door lines better etc..... Basically since your going to full frame the car, now is the time to optimize that weak body.

I use these home made boxes. Just level them before you do the work. RM
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/RealMcCoy099/setupbox1.jpg

On the wheels is the best way by far! If you wonder who is right ,heres how to find out. Put four pieces of masking tape ..2 on top of door [1. front fender to door,2nd from door to rear 1/4 [looking at it from the side] and 2 on the bottom ..[1 front fender to door second from door to rear 1 /4] ,draw a straight line across the tape. cut tape [ between door and fenders. Now jack the car up..I,ll bet money the lines aren,t even close. If your doing it on a hoist do this on all fours and hoist it up. Put a board or something under the rear end and lower it until the lines line up. Weld or bolt them in. Now the doors will open good on all fours or up in the air!

I installed the DSHOP2000 connectors while car was on the ground. They just cleared the parking brake cable tab. Didn't have to relocate anything. The only interference was the drain plug lip, keeping them form going high enough to mount at the leaf spring pocket. I flattened that out. I did have to trim about 1/8" off the rear mounting plate of the connectors, where it hooks to the leaf spring pocket. I then put a floor jack under the middle of the connector and raised it into place.
Another option is to notch the connectors in the area, and then box them back closed. That is what I did to the ones on my Camaro.

The Nova
http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/3027/1265108076060395656S425x425Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1265108076060395656pDwvIJ)

Ill post the Camaro ones later...Also from DSHOP2000