front clip alternatives/ disk brake thoughts

Lets say you just did not want to shell out the 3g for an aftermarket front clip.

What would be the next best option?

Whats the cheapest method to get disk brakes on the front? What the best donor rear axle to get disks on the rear?

If there are no options, lemme know.

My brother is possibly thinking LS engine, I dug into some information and found out, it can be done with the stock clip, now if there is a cost effective way to get disk brakes on it, he may very well go that direction.


Right now, just looking for all options available.


Forgot to add, this is a 1965 nova


Thanks

this is about the cheapest i have found front disk conversions for nova's
I bought kit from this guy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/62-63-64-65-66-67-GM-Nova-disc-brake-conversion-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ011QQitem Z320082238242

I guess i would give cpp a call and get the mini subframe kit from them and this disk brake kit... from above if you want to do it on the cheap..

just my opinion though as far as the rear end goes there are alot of alternatives out there...

here is good setup for the money on the rear end I believe that this guy is on this site....
http://www.jewettracing.com/media/The%20Ford%208-8%20Swap-Nova.pdf

Thanks man.

That ebay listing shows 68 up novas, Im guessing he has them for 65 or does it matter, as I have no idea?

hmmm if i click the link i posted it covers 62-67 novas maybe its pulling something different on your computer.. but i do know the guy has the 62-67 nova kits -- which if I am thinking straight also fit 68-74 novas --- anyhow i bought a kit from this guy a good while ago and the kit was 379 plus shipping
your still going to have to buy a mastercylinder if you go with a disk/ drum setup or disc disc a guy cant go wrong with cpp's combo master cylinder

as far as the 8.8 ford rear conversion goes Its easy enough if you have some fabbing experience... the 8.8 explorer rear ends are a good deal most have 3.73's or 3.55's for gears and a clutch type diff which has its limitations but I guess if i where to throw a number out there i would say if you are making 500 hp at the flywheel/flexplate this rear end holds up just fine...

I put an 8.8 in my wife's 65 II wagon 3.73's and it has a very mild 406 in it
from a 96 explorer following the write up from jewettracing.com and it has worked perfectly... This is all my opinion but plain and simple it works.... matt

Well, Im actually the ford man of the family...the 8.8's do work very well. :eek: I come in peace. :D


Cool, sounds like the mini subframe kit and disk conversion of some sort is the way to go, for my brother.


I have a question, what are the benefits to a full aftermarket subframe, vs the mini? Or should I ask, is it worth the extra 2g ********?


Another question, how would the s-10 rear swap in? I gotta tell ya, he beat the hell out of two stock s-10 rears, one being open 2**, the other posi 3.73 and they both held up to an honest 470hp/520tq BB, for street strip fun. He just swapped the posi in to add gear and posi, not because it broke.


Thanks man, appreciate the help.

i would say the advantage of a full front sub frame is adjustability,,, and additional strength --- you have many more options as far as your steering setup goes braking choices and the the geometry of the front suspension is much better--- even with the mini kit from cpp you are still somewhat limited in what you have in the finished product... the other pro's of having a full front sub is ROOM to work if.. it all depends on how serious you are going to get with the car and what its primary use is going to be!!! But cost wise and bang for the buck cpp has it hands down in my opinion..... I have had both full front subs and now two 1st gennners with the cpp.. on my 64 I took it a step further and ditched the coil spring and shock setup and went with a coil over.. I ditched the rear steer and went with a rack and converted it to front steer (what a nightmare) and in the end I think it works great for my application-- on my 65 II wagon the only additonal item where sperical bearing spring perches and drop spindles.. that works well also..

as far as the s-10 rears go I have had couple end up looking like an m1 TANK pulled up inside of it and fired a round off...:eek: but again there have been several people on the site that have made them work with great success.. In my opinion with a s-10 rear you are living on borrowed time
matt

I got a dropped spindle & disc steup from www.mcgaughys.com. they supply to other companys so you can cut the middle guy out. $450 for everything, 229.00 for spindles & 219.00 for the discs.

Thanks fellas.



Anyone know of a link were the s-10 rear was modded to fit, does anyone know off the top of their head if it needs to be narrowed?

Thanks again

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52638&highlight=rearend+swap

thanks man

That link suggests moving the springs inward for the s-10 rear. Is there a reason why a person couldnt simply move the spring perches on the axle? What am I missing?


Thanks

That link suggests moving the springs inward for the s-10 rear. Is there a reason why a person couldnt simply move the spring perches on the axle? What am I missing?


Thanks

I don't think there's room to move them out on the axle. I am trying to measure this right now but the perches on an S10 are 38.5" wide at center. Our 62 67 rears have perches of 43.5 and I don't see where you can move the perches without running into the disc brake. Also when it comes to Front clips I just bought mine for $1495.00 new but no spindles or brakes. Got those off of Ebay for another $350.00 Let me know if you want the suppliers info.

OK,I just went out there to take one more look and realize this is just my opinion while looking up under my S10 blazer there is room to move the perches out 2.5" per side but you will have to modify the lower leaf mounts [ Narrow and trim them] and the parking brake cables may or may not interfere. Don't quote me!! I'm only able to look at this while on my back. Someone else on this site had the wheel mount widths but every time I go to remove the wheels someone has to go somewhere in the blazer so I can do just so much.:) :)

Also when it comes to Front clips I just bought mine for $1495.00 new but no spindles or brakes. Got those off of Ebay for another $350.00 Let me know if you want the suppliers info.



Sure, you can PM me the front clip information.

When you find something conclusive on the axle, lemme know.

Thanks man!!

If you are considering the S10 rear, I believe some are 8.5 and others 7.5's. The 8.5 should hold up to a lot of abuse.

If you are not set on swapping out the rear end, I put 12" rear discs from a 2002 Z28 Camaro on my 65 wagon without too much difficulty, and I got the whole package pretty cheap on ebay. This was pretty much what I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-LS1-Camaro-Firebird-12-Inch-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ005QQitem Z150092697254QQrdZ1

i would say the advantage of a full front sub frame is adjustability,,, and additional strength --- you have many more options as far as your steering setup goes braking choices and the the geometry of the front suspension is much better--- even with the mini kit from cpp you are still somewhat limited in what you have in the finished product... the other pro's of having a full front sub is ROOM to work if.. it all depends on how serious you are going to get with the car and what its primary use is going to be!!! But cost wise and bang for the buck cpp has it hands down in my opinion..... I have had both full front subs and now two 1st gennners with the cpp.. on my 64 I took it a step further and ditched the coil spring and shock setup and went with a coil over.. I ditched the rear steer and went with a rack and converted it to front steer (what a nightmare) and in the end I think it works great for my application-- on my 65 II wagon the only additonal item where sperical bearing spring perches and drop spindles.. that works well also..

as far as the s-10 rears go I have had couple end up looking like an m1 TANK pulled up inside of it and fired a round off...:eek: but again there have been several people on the site that have made them work with great success.. In my opinion with a s-10 rear you are living on borrowed time
matt

mattsdfrmb, I see here that you ditched the rear steer and went with a rack and converted to front steer. Nighmare huh? I posted a thread asking about this and have not hear back from many regarding it. I am very interested in doing this conversion and would love your story regarding it. I PMed ya also. Thx Smitty

Lets say you just did not want to shell out the 3g for an aftermarket front clip.

What would be the next best option?

Right now, just looking for all options available.


Forgot to add, this is a 1965 nova


Thanks

You might want to consider a weld-in front Mustang II X-member too. A lot less money than a front clip and accomplishes the same thing. It also allows you to relocate the front wheels back to better center the tires in the front fender wheel openings like the clips do so they don't rub, dramatically increases room to allow for a big block, disc brakes, and will handle just as good as any of the Mustang II style clips.

The thing I like best about this option is, that it allows you to keep the engine bay more factory-looking with just modified factory steel inner fender wells that have the shock towers removed. The X-member set-ups can be made to be just as strong (if not stronger) than the clips too if you choose to reinforce them. The best part is that it's a semi-unique set-up that can be finished many different ways and sets you apart from the bolt-on kits. It takes a little more talent and engineering to do, but not much. You'll save at least $1,000 and probably a lot more if you have access to a welder and can install it yourself too.