Weird alignment toe problem

hey guys a newbie really needs some help here. i have a 66 2 door. I got the car a couple months ago and it worked great when I got it. I put diSc brakes on the car using modifieD stock spindLes. nNow when I go forward the tires toe out, and when I go in reverse the tires toe in. When I have someone turn the steering wheel side to side everything looks good and solid and no play in the steering is visible. PLEASE HELP

I had the same problem with my 65. I tried to use a kit for a 69 camaro and drilled out my stock 6 cylinder steering arms(mounting holes were too small). Had same exact problem as your describing. I ended up ordering a CPP disc brake kit and 5-lug conversion steering arms. I am very happy with this set-up. Cost $800-$900 but worth it. Dan.

This is a tough one. By any chance, are the tie rod ends in the spindle incorrectly? Tie rod ends are tapered, and the hole in the steering arm is tapered.
This probably isn't the cause, but, it is the first thing that came to mind.

Make sure all your bushings and bolts are tight. How much did you disassemble to get the brakes on?

If you can see it moving there is definately a problem (lose nut, part, something). Are your tie rods connected to the spindle?

...or....are you saying the car tends to toe in while driving but when you put it in reverse and jab the brakes the car seems to toe back out. Can you clarify exactly what you are talking about here?

I tore it down to the point that the spindle was off and the steering arms dissasembled. the steering arms are insatalled properly I believe. the tie rod end comes in from the bottom and it is seated properly. All bushings seem fine. I installed all new ball joints. If the car is driven forward 10 feet or so the wheels toe out at least an inch. If driven backward 10 or so feet it toes in an inch or so. I have ordered the bearing conversioon for the idler arm but it seems to be fine when the wheels are turned back adn forth( vehicle is stationary). I appreciate the help guys.

You should consider buying the cpp lower a arm kit and fix the problem once and for all.bm

I actually just installed that kit today and it didn't fix the problem. Very easy install though. Before the A arm kit the wheel would toe in the opposite of how it does now. Before the kit the wheels would toe in when going forward adn would toe out when in reverse. I had assumed it was the strut rods and stepped up for the A arms instead of a bandaid fix. Please help

This just isn't adding up. Are you sure the nut is tight on the rotors? Are you sure its toe in and not just the wheels turning slightly back and forth together (which could indicate a bad idler arm bushing)?

What concentrics do you have and are they tight?

What concentrics do you have and are they tight?

^^ definately make sure of this. Maybe we shouldn't make too many assumptions here since there is obviously something missed.

The eccentrics are tight. I am pretty sure it is the toe and not a wheel turning in. If it were the idler arm would both wheels turn in or just one? The rotors are tight I checked to see if the wheel wobbled while the wife drove and it looked fine. I forgot to mention i replaced the springs with stock replacements. I doubt it will make a diffence but I thougt I would let you all know. the steering arms that bolt to the spindle back are supposed to taper or point inward correct? i am second guessing myself a bunch, i am very frustrated with this.

bump please

Toe is usually adjusted by the tie-rods, yes? Could there be a set of overly worn or loose tie-rods in your setup?? This could account for excessive toe movement.

Other than that, the only other thing I can think of that could affect toe in the OEM suspension set is the strut rods being loose, which you removed with the CPP kit install, so there goes that idea. :rolleyes:

I don't think the idler arm is going to affect your toe setting much, if at all. It may contribute to steering slop at the steering wheel, but shouldn't exhibit the toe problems you're seeing.

...I don't think the idler arm is going to affect your toe setting much, if at all. It may contribute to steering slop at the steering wheel, but shouldn't exhibit the toe problems you're seeing.

It is POSSIBLE, but the idler arm would have to be just about dangling free from the frame. That would allow the drag link to sag and let the tie rods float in and out. But Man...The idler arm would just about have to be hanging unattached, to be that bad.

I'd love to see you get this solved. I sold my 66 about 18 years ago, and it had EXACTLY the same problem. I finally got fed up with it not holding an alignment. It looked the same way you described, only not quite as severe by the sound of it. I put on every new piece I could, and it was no better. It was basically undriveable.

the weirdest part of my problem is the car was fine before I did the brake swap. I reused all my original components except springs and disc brake parts. I think I installed something wrong but am unsure what it could be. Do the steering arms lean toward the inside or the outside of the car? This is the only part I am unsure of. I currently have them leaning toward the inside.

the weirdest part of my problem is the car was fine before I did the brake swap. I reused all my original components except springs and disc brake parts. I think I installed something wrong but am unsure what it could be. Do the steering arms lean toward the inside or the outside of the car? This is the only part I am unsure of. I currently have them leaning toward the inside.

Here's a pic of my 67 in OEM form for reference. This is the pass side.

http://www.67chevyii.com/updates/page24images/steering_linkage_passenger_idlerarm.jpg.

Do you hear any noises when you go from forward to backward? Any clunking like something is shifting around? Can you get someone to drive it back and forth in your driveway while you look at the idler arm, the steering arms etc.? CAREFULLY! I would think you should be able to see things shifting around if the toe is moving that much.

Sure wish mine were that clean. I can't quite see the steering arm. I am reffering to the arm that bolts to the back of the spindle and the tie rod end attaches too. I has a slight angle. Should it angle in or out?

I hear nothing. I Just had the wife drive the car and I looked at the idler arm and all other pieces and everything seems solid. I thought I saw the idler move once but I am not sure. It is difficult to say the least to see everthing. I do have the idler arm bearing conversion on order and should be here tomorrow.

Sure wish mine were that clean. I can't quite see the steering arm. I am reffering to the arm that bolts to the back of the spindle and the tie rod end attaches too. I has a slight angle. Should it angle in or out?

Definitely inwards.

Here's a driver's side pic that shows it better.

http://www.67chevyii.com/updates/page24images/steering_linkage_driver.jpg

Thats what mine looks like except for the cleanliness. To be done at a later time. I just want to drive the thing. Could the spring have anything to do with this? What if I put the spring mount(lower) on backwards?

Have you considered taking it into an alignment shop?I'm sure you can drive it that way for a mile or two.....no more headaches.bm

I did that after the brakes and the lazy ******* aligned the car and never really looked for the problem. The problem still existed after and he said to get the lockout kit, and once again would not look under the car. I am going to find a new shop tomorrow. I am waiting on the idler arm before I take it so hopefully I only have to pay for 1 alignment. I appreciate all the input guys.

Can you take a picture of your setup for us?bm

I will do it tomorrow, hopefully in the morning.

Please take a picture. So you have the CPP mini-subframe kit too?

I was gonna say missing cup washers on the lower control arm bushings, and/or strut rod bushing issues, but you said the CPP kit has been installed, so that takes these out of the picture.

Get your camera and take plenty of pics for us to see. Post them on here as I wanna see this mystery.

If you don't know how to post pics, go read my thread:
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27716

here they are guys
IMG]http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4480.jpg[/IMG]

IMG]http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4481.jpg[/IMG]

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4482.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4483.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4484.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4485.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4486.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4487.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4488.jpg

Thanks for the writeup on posting pictures I think I did it right.

Sorry guys that came out kind of messed up. PLEASE HELP

(There ya go. You just need to put each image on a separate line. DANNO)

Something looks odd with the idler arm setup/installation in those pics. I'm not seeing the connection between the idler arm and the center link.

Are those pics as the car stands today??

IMG]http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4490.jpg[/IMG]
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4489.jpg
This is how the car sits at this moment. I just got my bearing conversion in today, hoping to install it tonight.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4490.jpg
Here is another

So...after looking at all your pictures, it occurred to me. How old are all the tie rod ends? I was thinking that all your parts were new (NOT that you ever said that) and looking at all your pics, it appears that these all have been in place awhile. It's possible that each of your tie rod ends have just a little bit of slop and when you add the slop from each piece, and factor in a worn idler arm, it could translate in a noticable amount of movement in toe. Even if each piece is not that old, it's possible that they were an inferior, inexpensive product when they were purchased and installed.

Just a thought.

Chuck

Did the guy align your car with the cpp kit installed?If so he did a terrible job!!!I would take it back to that shop and demand that they do it again(not the same guy)If you look at the car from the front....there is no way thats correct.Make them do it again and do not take no for an answer!!!bm

I had the alignment was done with the stock setup. I just put the CPP kit in and have not had it alligned yet. I was waiting for the bearing conversion kit. I am going to go put it on now. I just noticed some movement in the idler arm. Somehow I did not detect it before even though I looked several times. The age of the front end components is unknown. everything has looked solid to this point, I may have overlooked something. Tie rod ends, the outers specifically are quite expensive. I have had the car about a month. I will check in shortly when the conversion kit is installed. Wish me luck.

I believe I have an aftermarket idler arm that is not rebuildable. Can anyone confim this?
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4492_0001.jpg

Aren't the wheels leaning in and then out from top to bottom? That is not the bearing conversion friendly idler arm. Try going to this site. www.rareparts.com
That is where I got mine.

When the toe changes so does the camber. The tire will actually roll side to side and rim stays stable, this is referring to camber. thanks for the link I will give them a call this morning.

I just ordered a used original idler arm and all tie rod ends for the car. I would like to thank everyone that helped and lent their advice. I should recieve my parts in a week or so, and will keep my fingers crossed that it works.

Well good luck. This problem has me thinking pretty hard. I just build my entire front suspension and now im worrying mine will have something wrong when i go to move the car. I hope you find the problem, i am very curious to see what was creating the problem.

Rennskii :chev:

I had one of those idler arms. They last about 2 months and then the joints wear and your steering goes all over the road literaly.:eek: the solution would be to get a stock arm and a ball bearing kit

Hey nova 64000, are you saying the stock idler arm with the rubber bushing wears out OR the aftermarket "wear in not out" arm is no good????

Put your new idler arm, bearing kit, and tie rod ends. Then take it and go get an alignment. Everything should be good. Then the only thing you would be lacking would be the upper control arm bushings and spring perch brackets.

Good luck and keep us posted. I'm sure everything will work out nicely.

Have your alignment specs set at:

caster set at 1.3 left, 1.5 right
Camber as close to 0 as possible.
Toe .08


Do not deviate from the above spec and make sure he keeps the cross camber and toe very tight. You always want a little more caster on the right to compensate road crown. Mine seems to like this alignment spec a lot and I've had mine done many different ways.

Basically you want a little toe and the wheels straight up for camber. This is not the stock suspension w/ bias ply tires so the original specs will not apply.

Dave

Hey nova 64000, are you saying the stock idler arm with the rubber bushing wears out OR the aftermarket "wear in not out" arm is no good????

The aftermarket one that has two tapered joints that ware out and can make a nova VERY unstable.:eek:

FWIW...There is some advantage to running stock bushings on the idler arm. I was going to buy the bearing conversion kit, but since I had new bushing ready to install, my alignment guy talked me out of buying them for the following reason: The bushings provide a stronger "on-center" feel. The steering tends to come back to center a little quicker than it would by relying on the caster setting alone.

So far, I find this to be true, but I do wonder how long the bushings will last. Supposedly, the bushings will last quite awhile if they are installed completely neutral with no bind prior to tightening them up. We'll see. I can tell you that with the CPP lowers, new ball joints, idler bushings and Global west upper arm bushings, this thing feels VERY planted and doesn't wander in the slightest.

Good luck withyour setup. I'm sure you'll be fine.

Hey I was thinking mabe with the CPP kit, since there is a lot less stress on the suspension mabe the stock idler arm bushings would last longer.

The aftermarket one that has two tapered joints that ware out and can make a nova VERY unstable.:eek:

I guess you learn something new everyday. That is the first that i have heard about those idler arms wearing out easily. Were there certain brands that wore out or were they all made by the same company? I have one on the 65 i bought awhile back and just wondered if it could be saved?? Not trying to hijack the thread here guys.

OK guys I finally got my tie rod ends, all 4, installed as well as the idler arm and bearing conversion. I did a homemade alignment and the car still does the same exact thing. the camber changes about 3 degrees adn the toe cahnges about an inch to 1.5 inches. I will have a pro align it shortly, but I truly believe there is still something wrong. Once again the car worked fine before I replaced the springs (with factory replacements), and the disc brake install. I am at my wits end and am tired of throwing money at this thing. Should have put a front clip on it. Now I have so much wrapped up in tihs front end I can't turn back.

I'm grasping at straws here, but....

What is that rod mounted above your center link/idler arm? It's got a cotter pin in the end of it. :confused: I don't recall seeing anything like that on a 66/67 before.

Also, I've been looking in your pics for the engine crossmember, but I can't see it in any of them. Not having that installed could allow some undesired flexibility in the front frame members.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4490.jpg

I'm grasping at straws here, but....

What is that rod mounted above your center link/idler arm? It's got a cotter pin in the end of it. :confused: I don't recall seeing anything like that on a 66/67 before.

Also, I've been looking in your pics for the engine crossmember, but I can't see it in any of them. Not having that installed could allow some undesired flexibility in the front frame members.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4490.jpg

Looks like power steering to me...that would be the bracket that holds the slave cylinder shaft..it is also the reason P/S idler is curved.

Jack

One thing I have noticed is the eccentric plates on the front are facing up. Mine had to be facing down as I couldn't get any adjustment with them up like that. Looks to me like the wheels are cambered too far in from the looks of the pics. The alignment should not change from baseline once set.

The front adjustments align the caster which affects toe. If you were not able to tighten these eccentrics down adequately you might be shifting the caster/toe without even realizing it.

One last thing. You should have inserted the washers between the frame mount and the eccentric plate for all of them.


Don't give up...It's got to be something simple as you have covered all of your bases. I understand how these front ends can be frustrating but I never had the problems once I put the lower control arm kit on.

Dave

Many moons ago before the fancy wheel balancers were in every shop ,they balanced wheels on the car . The unit looked like a big vacuum cleaner ,very heavy and I think maybe Hunter made them.It could be used as a mini dyno to spin the assemby while on the shop floor slightly elevated on a rack .If your shop has one laying around have them spin it up and apply the brake and watch the components during brake application.It may take a few shots to observe all but may give you the diagnosis you need.Just another way to simulate and check for vibrations and suspension shift while in the shop. You may have to support the lower arm to duplicate ride height just in case. :beer: :beer: :beer: May help a shop owner want to try it. Good luck It may be component fatigue since everything south of the upper ball joint is new(upper arm bushings).Best of luck staying tuned for the todays results.

The car does have power steering and the piece you are seeing is the assist ram. I did install the washers between the mounting plates and the eccectric as noted in the instructions. I had to grind the eccentrics a small amount in order to get hthe plates to spin all the way around, the guy at CPP said this was common and not a problem. When I did my homemade allignment I set the camber at 0 with a piece of steel on the lip of the rim and an angle finder. The toe was set last. I set caster by setting the gap between the tire and the front lip of the fender. All this was intended to be approximate and get me to an allignment shop. When I drive the car forward the camber becomes 3-4 degrees negative and the toe changes as well. When I put the car in reverse it seems to go back to my original settings. the upper control arm bushing felt tight when I changed the springs so I left them. It seeems to me that the geometry is off somewhere. A friend is going to see if he can get me access to the lift at his shop. It is the drive up type and should really help to see what is moving. This should happen Wed. he said.

here they are guys
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4480.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4481.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4482.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4483.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4484.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4485.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4486.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4487.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/heidiandmike/100_4488.jpg

Thanks for the writeup on posting pictures I think I did it right.


the top 2 images needed the "[" to post... so i quoted and fixed them... i hope the guys can help ya with the probs

I dunno ,but looking at the pics it looks like your problem exists in the upper contrl arm or upper ball joint area. it looks like the top of the tire is moving in and out not the bottom.
i could be wrong , but thats what i see by the pics.

I had this same problem on my car for about 3 years. I was wearing out front tires in about 6 months, even though every spring I would put new tires on and have the front end re-aligned. This was after I had replaced all of the front end wear parts. I finally installed the lockout kit, the rubber front spring perches, the idler arm bearing kit and cut 1/2 coil off of the front springs. I'm not sure which change had the most impact but I've now had the same front tires on the car for 3 years and they should go another 3 or 4 years with no problem. B/4 i could actuall hear the front tires squeal as I went down the track, the bump steer was so bad. Seventy or 75 down the highway now feels stable, b/4 it was downright scarey.

The geometry on these front ends make them very suseptible to bump steer. Even though my guy was aligning the front end, it didn't matter because some of those replacement idler arms would only last 2 or three months of driving, no matter how much you tried to tighten them down. One of the other key things was that even though he thought he was cranking down on those eccentric nuts, the first time i would travel over a big bump they would not hold their position.

What I fthink was going on was that at the stock ride height with 350 and 6 cyl springs, the front suspension had a whole lot of travel and the steering gear was not setup in the center of the suspension travel, If it is set up in the center of travel, you will get a little bump steer in either direction of travel. If it is set up and aligned near one extreme of travel, you will get maximum deviation from the alignment setup when hitting a bump. Anyway, those rubber spring perches do a greta job of limiting the suspension travel and cuttng a half coil lowered the ride height about an inch to an inch and a half and the lockout kit eliminated the changes in alignment. The only negative is that I have lost some weight transfer at the track. I am now considering putting back in my stock spring perches to see if I can free up the front end a little without screwing up everything else I have gained.

I have ordered upper control arm bushings,they should be here Monday. I am hoping to install them that evening after work. Can you elaborate on the rubber spring perches you are talking about. Is it possible to install the lower spring perch backwards? Also what are the wear characteristics of these parts?

I believe there are at least two styles of spring perches available in the aftermarket. One style is the factory style which has the pivot mounted in ball bearings. The other style uses polyurethane or rubber at the pivot point. The new ones i installed are the poly ones. They are actually less expensive, but very tight and will somewhat restrict travel. I actually do not remember if I got them from CIIO or off of e-bay. Someone is selling the bearing style on e-bay right now and wants $200 for the pair suggesting that they are some sort of aftermarket roadrace perch. From what I can tell, they are the factory original style.

Is it possible to install the lower spring perch backwards?

When installing them it is possible to install the greaseable type backwards. The grease nipples will point towards the inside of the car, making it hard to grease them, if you've got them on backwards. I did this when I rebuilt my front end and installed the springs. In order to grease it up, I had to switch them.

Other than that, I think they're universal if you've got the non-greaseable ones and can be installed on either side.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. :)

Well last night I installed new upper control arm bushings. I also made sure the springs were indexed properly and everything looked right. Still no solution to my problem. I have replaced darn near everything in the front end and can't get this fixed.

With the car sitting at ride height, weight on the front tires, grab the middle of the center link and push up and down.
Is there any play?
Are the right and left ends of the centerlink parallel to the ground?
OR
Iis one side higher than the other?
Can you detect any play at the end where the Idler arm attaches to the center link?
Any play where the center link attaches to the pitman arm?

It appears that the passenger side of the center link is slightly lower than the drivers side, my eyes could be decieving me though. I did not measure with a tape, just got out of the shower and want to stay clean. There is no upward movement at the center link, nor is there movement at the idler or power steering control box area either. everthing seems very snug, should be since it is all new. Tomorrow i get to use a drive-up style lift and hopefullly see what is moving.

Well putting the car on the lift was to no avail. I installed the lockout plates on the thought that maybe something was moving but the problem still exists. I think I may part out the front end and save up to get a front clip.

I hope I'm not confusing the issue but I think you may have the caster incorrectly set. Neutral or negative caster will cause the problem you have.

If you dont have at least 1-1 1/2 positive camber and 0-1/32 toe OUT, the wheels will track.
Also, because the Nova front end is a bit "rubbery" (like a Mustang) any tendancy for the wheels to track is magnified by the flexing of the bushes.

I raced an L79 in historic circuit racing some years ago and was so frustrated with the problem you are facing now. I found that unless you started with setting the camber first, then camber, then toe, stopped the idler arm bush flexing (I used a bronze bushes on the idler arm and upper inner bushes), I ended up with your problem.

Dial in some positive caster (it will make the steering a little heavier) and see what happens.

You might want to look at this site:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html


good luck

Graeme

I hope I'm not confusing the issue but I think you may have the caster incorrectly set. Neutral or negative caster will cause the problem you have.

If you dont have at least 1-1 1/2 positive camber and 0-1/32 toe OUT, the wheels will track.
Also, because the Nova front end is a bit "rubbery" (like a Mustang) any tendancy for the wheels to track is magnified by the flexing of the bushes.

I raced an L79 in historic circuit racing some years ago and was so frustrated with the problem you are facing now. I found that unless you started with setting the camber first, then camber, then toe, stopped the idler arm bush flexing (I used a bronze bushes on the idler arm and upper inner bushes), I ended up with your problem.

Dial in some positive caster (it will make the steering a little heavier) and see what happens.

You might want to look at this site:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html


good luck

Graeme

Sorry,
I'm a bit new to this and dont know how to correct it, but the post should read 1-1 1/2 CASTER not camber.

regards,

Graeme

Let me explain something here. You must set the alignment with the car on the ground. Not only does it need to be on the ground but you really should drive the car foward and backwards and forward, push the front suspension down and settle the front end as much as possible before you even attempt to set the alignment. The reason is because the car will change camber and toe unless the suspension is "settled".

When I set mine I had to do the following:

set the alignment where I thought was close.
let the car of the jack stands
drive the car forward and backwards
push down on the front suspension
straightened the wheels/steering wheels out
walk around the car and eyeball it to figure out how much camber adjustment it will need to set the camber almost straight up.
How much toe will each side need?
jack up car with a mental note what needs to be done.
Start with camber then move to toe. Little adjustments at a time. Caster should just be set to the 0 position until you take it to the alignment shop.
Drop the car back down. Back it up, then forward, push front end down (ensrue it is "SETTLED") pull it forward, straighten the wheel out and get out to take a look.
Keep repeating this procudure until you can "settle" the suspension and get desired results

Is this what you had done? Man...I would hate to see you waste money on another front end. NOBODY I know has ever experienced this when installing this new front end. I can't beleive the suspension is moving that drastically.

Funky Nova, this is pretty much what I did. I would jack the car up get things were they needed to be and then drop it on the ground and check. I would jounce the car several times, not drive it forward or backward in between adjustments. I have no idea as to how to set the caster. I would eyeball the distance from the tire to the front lip of the fender. I have no idea how much caster this actually gave me. I had enough space to put two fingers side by side in the opening.

I forgot to mention that I did have a pro set the alignment after the brake swap but before the CPP kit and it did not change the problem I was haveing, with the toe/camber issue.

I just read throught all the posts
and wanted to share some thing that happen to me when I put disk brakes on my car as i was puting the spindles on the lower ball joint hole was the wrong size and the ball joint would move around so long story short they had to send me a new set of spindles with the right size hole I all most missed this and had on side done and working on the other and for some reason put the new ball joint in the new spindle for the other side and seen I had a problem may not be what is happing to you but worth a look.

I feel for you. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you if the parts are tight etc. Effective use of a crowbar by an experienced mechanic can find loose front end parts. You need to find a better alignment shop. It took me 3 attempts to find one where the guy knew how to handle these cars. And then only 1 of the guys at the shop is the one I trust. Tell them to check everything..

Phasstnova, can you describe exactly what was different about he spindle and ball joint configuration. At firs the ball joint stud was too short to put the castle nut and the cotter key on. I replaced the ball joint with new Moog parts. The stud on the new joint was longer and fixed my problem. The new spindle had a thicker boss by and 1/8 inch compared to the stock. I ended up using he stock spindle(modified to fit caliper bracket) so everything would fit. I had the brake company send me another set of spindles and they sent the same ones I had first so it is the correct pair for the kit. The hole in the spindle is the same size on the stock and the aftermarket spindle.

The tapered hole on the bottom side of the spingle was too big for the balljoint taper and would not seat and move around even after it was tightened down. I hope that helps

Unfortunatly that is not the case here. i am going to take it to a shop next week hopefully.

Boy I know what a pain it is when things do not go right Hope you figure it all out. Good luck

What did you find out?

I found that I needed to step away from the vehicle. The car has me strung out so I decided to leave it alone for a while before I start to throw things. I will post my findings when I get back to the problem. Hopefully in the next week or so.

You mean you actually stopped b/4 you started to throw things?

MMMMM, maybe there is a lesson there for me.

I'll have to consider that next time.

Take a deep breath and repeat after me....ohm....ohm....ohm.....

Take a deep breath and repeat after me....ohm....ohm....ohm.....

Should'nt that be in the electrical forum?:p

I have a question/comment for these pictures. In the picture of the for the lower control arm bushing it looks like grease between the bushing and the mount?? should there be grease there????? I installed my dry.

Mitch

the top 2 images needed the "[" to post... so i quoted and fixed them... i hope the guys can help ya with the probs

bushings should not have any kind of lubricant on them. the reason the bushings are there is to hold tight to the metal. i install bushings with soap and water. i was an alignment man for 15 years. this front end setup is one of the poorest made....accept for early mustangs. i used to hate to align these cars when they came in. any least amount of camber adjustment and the toe is affected drastically!! i still love the old deuce though!

I am dropping the car off at a shop tomorrow I will let everyone know what happens. I greased the bushings because I always have in every project I have had, to prevent sweaks.

Did you ever get the alignment fixed? I'm having the same problem with my 66