Steering wheel alignment

MANGOPUPPY
16th-December-2006, 10:51 PM
I replaced the column in my '72 with a floor shift/auto one (mine was 3-on-tree). Now my steering wheel is off by 90 degrees. You cannot move the wheel, because there's a flat spot on the spline at the wheel mount. I tried to rotate the rag joint splines; same thing, one way only. Any suggestions while I have the column disconnected?

69SSAcadian
16th-December-2006, 11:43 PM
I replaced the column in my '72 with a floor shift/auto one (mine was 3-on-tree). Now my steering wheel is off by 90 degrees. You cannot move the wheel, because there's a flat spot on the spline at the wheel mount. I tried to rotate the rag joint splines; same thing, one way only. Any suggestions while I have the column disconnected?


Odd...what parts are you dealing with..any aftermarket...what donors?

MANGOPUPPY
17th-December-2006, 09:34 AM
No aftermarket stuff that I know of. The column may not be Nova, but I don't see how that would matter. If the size is correct, it shouldn't be an issue. This is the only problem with the new column and it's really irritating. I was hoping for easy solution. The only thing that will work,I guess, is for me to pull the pitman arm and move it a few spines, whatever it takes. That could be a dead-end also.

DAVES7DNOVA
17th-December-2006, 09:47 AM
Re-positioning the pitman arm may not be the answer. It's possible you may end up with less turns to the left than to the right (or vice versa).
I don't have an answer for you, but, hold off on the pitman arm. Those arms sometimes have a master spline anyways.
It's tough to diagnose without being there.

DAVES7DNOVA
17th-December-2006, 09:52 AM
The simple fix (although maybe not correct for your problem)would be to shorten and lengthen tie rods to adjust the front wheels straight. Make sure you adjust both sides the same amount of turns. This way, you won't change your toe adjustment.

bowtie0069
17th-December-2006, 12:34 PM
I thought that was just a Mopar problem! My steering wheel has been put on in different positions, I don't recall it having any flats that kept it from being moved. I've moved them on other Chevy's too.

Bscman
17th-December-2006, 02:49 PM
Very odd...pretty much every chevy column I've worked with had splines for the steering wheel, and many have splines where the rag-joint would connect (if not pressed on).

Do you know what the column is out of?

taz3
17th-December-2006, 02:54 PM
If you can't correct it by moving the steering wheel(remove and rotate,but the horn connection/cancelation cam should be at the 10 o'clock pos.)if that isn't possible you have to loosen the tie rod sleeves on both sides and turn them equal amounts one way or the other until the steering is centered.

There should not be a flat spot ot the steering wheel end of the column that I know of.

Jeremy77nova
17th-December-2006, 03:59 PM
Is there a flat spot with the splinds on the power steering pump.If so their is only one way to put the steering shaft on.Tie rod adjustment is the way to go IMHO.Hope this helps.

MANGOPUPPY
18th-December-2006, 02:37 PM
Is there a flat spot with the splinds on the power steering pump.If so their is only one way to put the steering shaft on.Tie rod adjustment is the way to go IMHO.Hope this helps.

There's a master spline on the steering hub/wheel. You all must have that as well. I have the optional wheel (4 spoke) that's vinyl that you find in Camaros. The steering box has a flat spot in the splines (manual box), so you all have that too. I was hoping for an easier answer, but I figured either Pitman arm or rod ends need to be moved. It seems everyone agrees with rotating the ends. PIA, but not too terrible.

I don't know where the column came from. I got it reman/trade-in from Columns Galore. It's rarer in Nova's so I'll guess it's from a Monte, or Maybe a Pontiac or something. Most of those came optioned up and had floor shifters.

Custom Jim
18th-December-2006, 04:33 PM
I quickly looked at a column I have from a 77 and there is no notch on the splines where the steering wheel goes on. I have other columns from my 73's and 74's and I didn't look at them since they had the steering wheels on them but man I don't remember any notches on them either. Could be something strange.

It's possible to maybe take out the difference with the tie rod adjusters but if it was mine I would look at the ones on there now and see if the adjusters are centered and even on the tie rods. I just worry (or I am not thinking this through all the way) if you do try and adjust it out with the tie rod couplers that you may have one coupler with a few threads of the tie rods into it while on the other side the tie rod ends butting up against each other inside the coupler.
If it's off 90 degree's then could another flat be made onto the splines and then do some minor tie rod adjustments ?.
I know looking at the columns I have the end by the gear box has a clearance notch in them for a bolt in the coupler and they are not that deep and I would be comfortable making another notch in those if needed. I wouldn't be removing that much metal in other words.

Jim

68chevyll
20th-December-2006, 07:26 PM
I don't recall any flat spots either.

Bscman
20th-December-2006, 08:55 PM
There's a master spline on the steering hub/wheel. You all must have that as well.

I'm using a tilt column out of a '77 in my '72.
I do recal seeing a master spline, but it only affected the locking mechanism for the column (i.e. so you can't turn it when the key is out).

There was no master spline on any of my stock steering wheels I having laying around (70 nova, 72 nova, '68 truck) Also, I pulled a grant steering wheel and adapter off an early 80's monte and it fit perfectly on my '72 column and '77column.
Maybe this is just an odd ball year column you got stuck with?

Any way we could get a pic of the splines on the column's shaft as well as the steering wheel itself?

DeuceWagon
20th-December-2006, 09:45 PM
This is one of those subjects that I'm sure a lot of us out here could benefit from. I was reading the Shop Manual on my '66 and all it says is something about alignment marks on the steering shaft (or spline) and the pitman arm.

I have yet to find them, so I was thinking of cranking the steering all the way to one side, then over to the other and counting the turns, then dividing in half for center (or there about). Afterwards, straighten the wheels, and attach the pitman arm to wherever it sits. From there, adjust the tie rod ends for center.

Then I'll roll it down the driveway and see which neighbor's house is crashes into... left or right and then make final adjustments from there.


DW

Custom Jim
20th-December-2006, 11:12 PM
I was reading the Shop Manual on my '66 and all it says is something about alignment marks on the steering shaft or spline.
DW

Heres a shot of one of my columns that shows a notch stamped into the end with something like a cold chisel:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2439306480060464735FKfzdm

And another showing three sides of one column. It looked like all of the small notches that the wheel slides over are evenly spaced and the same with no notches.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2059213140060464735sBMgIK

Jim

Real McCoy
20th-December-2006, 11:40 PM
The column shaft on my 72 has a chisel mark which I put at the top. I used a U Joint to replace the rag joint on mine for header clearance issues but with this mark to the top my turn signals cancel right. I also set my gearbox centered by turning it and counting the turns then centered it. RM

DeuceWagon
21st-December-2006, 09:12 PM
The '66 has a divot that looks like a center punch made it.

I never noticed it until you mentioned the mark. So... what happens now? What do you line that up with on the Pitman arm?

Thanks

DW

MANGOPUPPY
27th-December-2006, 04:55 PM
The horn contact will not sit at 10 o'clock when attempting to move the wheel to a different position. Without modifications, the only way possible to correctly center the wheel is to move the tie rod ends. Just unlucky I guess.

MANGOPUPPY
3rd-January-2007, 09:39 AM
I spoke with Rick Lanza @ Columns Galore. There's only one way for the quick fix to this issue. Remove the wheel and with a lock plate compressor, pull the lock plate off, file the master spline off, then reinstall 90 degrees in the correct direction. The integrity of the plate will not be affected and the steering wheel will line up correctly with the horn contact (10 o'clock). Much easier than screwing with the tie rod ends.