gasser back half

After spending the better part of three days under my car, Im trying to figure out what framerails that I want to use. I want to use a 28x12.5 tire. I thought a style like the Jegster would be easy for me to fab my self
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/55040601K.jpg
but all the others have a drop off at the rear like th chassis works
https://www.cachassisworks.com/images/PKG_001id.jpg
The only reason for the drop off is to keep the ride height as low as possible, for a gasser I do not want to have a low ride height in the rear. I like the the chassis work clip best, but would it give me the ride height that I want???
A frame rail lile the jegster is going to be easier to do the tin work (less bends) I'm kinda lost heredo not want to make a BIG mistake

If it's a gasser sawsall the balls out of the quarters and get rims with like 1 inch of backspace and run your 28x12.5's.


Joe

That is what I would have done but somone cut out the pass frame rail before I got the car, that is why I need to back half the car.

That is what I would have done but somone cut out the pass frame rail before I got the car, that is why I need to back half the car.

I feel your pain. My car came pre-dismembered aswell so it had to be back halved:(

Why not these?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_132199_-1_10775

I used the S&W version so I can use cal tracs and leaf springs. I think leaf springs and ladder bars would be sick in a gasser. Totally fits the theme.

Joe

That is wat my first idea was, but I got thinking and looking. I got stumped on what to use for the front spring mount, having to use sliders, as of now it will not be raced in the Nostalga class (but will be raced) so I do not need to have leafs. I still may go with the c/e kitbut am not shure yet, Im looking forward and thinking that the tin work is going to be real rough with all the the bends.

Why can't you just buy the replacement framerails? Cut out the other one that's there, and replace them both with a stronger set from Morrison, Alston, others? That way, no extra work trying to "re-figure" stuff Then it would be a "period" car, but with a much stronger rear section that looks old school stock. Harder? Easier? Only you would know as you are working on the car. Replacing framerails is really not too hard, just time consuming.

That is wat my first idea was, but I got thinking and looking. I got stumped on what to use for the front spring mount, having to use sliders, as of now it will not be raced in the Nostalga class (but will be raced) so I do not need to have leafs. I still may go with the c/e kitbut am not shure yet, Im looking forward and thinking that the tin work is going to be real rough with all the the bends.


The S&W rails I got have front spring mounts welded to the rails. I bought mine with their matching subframe connectors and the stuff fits mint on my '71. Here's a couple of pics of my rails when I just got them from S&W.



http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8733/0622060814cq3.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/8171/0623060852xi7.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6859/0624061356kx2.jpg



The springs fit good in there and it's nice that it has 2 ride height adjustments. The rails are $189 and the connectors are $39.


Joe

I may need to look back at the S&W rails then.
Thanks for the help