1st genner Brake rebuild for Dummies. (Like Me)

Drum brake rebuild for dummies.

Wheel Cylinder:

Disassemble the cylinder. Using a bar clamp, 17mm socket and a 1 1/8" socket. Press the smaller socket through the cylinder and push the inner workings into the larger socket. This is a 1" cylinder, for other sizes different sockets may be used.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/cylinder1.jpg

Disassembled wheel cylinders.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/cylinder2.jpg

Clean pistons and hone the cylinders using a brake hone. If any of the inside surface of the cylinder is pitted, it should be replaced to prevent leakage.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/cylinder3.jpg

Re-assemble the cylinders using a new spring and cup kit.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/cylinder4.jpg

Wheel cylinder rebuild kits $8ea Replacement cylinders $41-$110 Savings of $66-$204 to rebuild vs. replace.

Drums, yes they are 4 lug.

Start with your original drums. Check vs. factory specifications to ensure that they are safe to use.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/drum1.jpg

Sandblasted.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/drum2.jpg

Painted.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/drum3.jpg

Wheel bearing races.

Use a 1" socket and extension to drive out the outer bearing race. And a punch to drive out the inner bearing race and seal. Notice the freshly turned braking surface.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/bearing1.jpg

Take one of each race and using a bench grinder, grind off 1/16" of the outer surface and save. In the pic, the front races are ground and the rear are not.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/bearing2.jpg

Clean the bearing mounting surface in the drum, being sure to grind down any flashing left behind from the punch. Using the 1 1/8" socket and the perspective “modified” race, drive the new races into the brake drum.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/bearing3.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/bearing4.jpg

Bearings.

Pack the new bearings with grease. I found the “Handy Packer” from CarQuest to be very easy to use.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/packing1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/packing2.jpg

Install bearings and seals to the drum.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/packing3.jpg

Clean brake hardware and replace as necessary, pay close attention to the adjusting assemblies. Replace shoes as needed.

Before.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/oldbrakes.jpg

After cleaning, new shoes and installation.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/newbrakes.jpg

Install the drum and tighten to factory specs. 12 foot pounds and loosen to fit the cotter pin. Should be less then 1/8" of movement.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Assembly%20and%20rebuilds/finished.jpg
Cylinder rebuild $16
Drum turning $16
Shoes $18
Bearings $85
Total rebuild $135.00

so Tania finally got ya out of the hot tub ??? :rolleyes:



that's the brakes :D

I generally use a bronze or brass drift to drive the races (even though they sell race installation drive sets) to eliminate the possibilty of metal to metal which could fracture the race.

Nice write up, put a sticky on it so I can find it later :)

I generally use a bronze or brass drift to drive the races (even though they sell race installation drive sets) to eliminate the possibilty of metal to metal which could fracture the race.

Good point and advice, but myself, possibly like others too, don't have the specialised tools and the need for them for only a few uses.

I think, but could be wrong, that in using a like sized part to drive them in with will even out the pressure and take the brunt of the driving force and keep the race safe from harm.

FWIW, I've used a brass drift for AT LEAST 6 or 7 different tasks on my nova. Always a good tool to help prevent fracturing or scratching important surfaces. Any local auto store should have a fairly inexpensive drift.
But I do approve of your method! :D

Good write up. I just got through doing the same thing to my 3rd gen...but I bought new wheel cylinders (only about $4 more a piece than a rebuild kit). I can't believe they're so pricey for you 1st genners!!! :eek:

I recommend using a Lisle bearing and seal driver- I think it was $20 at Sears.

Kudos on the nice write-up NIGHTSHADE!

Here is an interresting point of info.

While putting together the passanger side tonight I discovered that the adjuster is wrong.

Here's the scoop. The car originally had manual adjusting brakes '62, and is being upgraded to self adjusting from a '63. I was using the adjusters from the manual brakes. I guess thet since they are to be turned by hand and not the mechanism that they don't need to be opposite one another.

And I did double check to make sure that they were not on the wrong sides!


Oh well, I guess I'll clean up another set!!:o

FWIW, I've used a brass drift for AT LEAST 6 or 7 different tasks on my nova. Always a good tool to help prevent fracturing or scratching important surfaces. Any local auto store should have a fairly inexpensive drift.
But I do approve of your method! :D

Good write up. I just got through doing the same thing to my 3rd gen...but I bought new wheel cylinders (only about $4 more a piece than a rebuild kit). I can't believe they're so pricey for you 1st genners!!! :eek:

Yes, I agree very good write up. I have used the same method as Nightshade before successfully. I've even watched a guy put them in with a hammer only.:eek: I still hang on to the old races to press new ones in with my arbor press when possible, especially front wheel drive bearings.

we could print it out and glue it to yer back... right next to the one that says... "KICK ME !!!"


:D

Very good write up. Nicely presented... Thanks for the info.
My cylinders seemed a bit far gone. Kanter Auto was a help for 62/3 cyls.as all I could find locally were kits.