How to pull a motor...

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Okay, I feel like an idiot asking this question, but does anyone know where a manual or a how-to-do readup on how to pull a motor out of a Nova...

I'd rather do it right than guess it, so I want to make sure I get everything I need... It'll be my first pull alone, I did it to my '78 Monte Carlo, but I had a older fellow help me, and that was two years ago... so if you guys could help me on this, it was be verrry appreciated...thanks guys :)

[4door64]

What year is your Nova and what motor is it?

[4door64]

You dont need a book, you get the best advice from some of the members on this site! :D

[Paul Wright]

Pulling it out is easy if it doesn't need to go back in.
Here's a picture of my Caprice in the middle of getting it's engine removed.

Here's the Readers Digest version:

Get a couple cans of engine degreaser. Follow the instructions and get it as clean as you can. Nothing worse than pulling a super greasy engine.
Drain the radiator and pull it. Put card board on both sides of the core to protect it in storage.
Carb, alternator, distributor, exhaust, starter, fuel pump, water pump all need removal. Keep a coffe can for bolts, but better yet put them in labled HD zip lock parts baggies (you can get these at office depot max stores).

Strip it down to the basic engine. Drain the rest of the fluids- Oil, coolant. Remove the two block plugs to get it all.

Jack the nose of the car up on Jack stands

Remove the torque converter bolts (3) and slide the converter back. Remove all the bell housing bolts.
Remove the motor mount cross bolts. Remove the hood and set it on cardboard on the roof (requires two guys or it might slip into the windsheild!)

Make sure you have room for the engine hoist and the car isn't too high to lift the engine out. It may be easier to remove the front body "clip".
You'll need to position a jack under the trans with a board so the pan isn't damaged. With the trans supported (but not lifted) lift the engine out. It should pop free but don't put your hands in the way of the engine. It will hurt you. Use a long pry bar instead. Lift slowly and check for things you might have missed like ground straps or wires.

Have the engine stand ready and the correct bolts and spacers. I use old wrist pins for engine stand spacers. I'll post more pix as this progresses. It's not a Nova but the basics are the same.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

What year is your Nova and what motor is it?


73...400 Smallblock

[Ironman]

My best advice:

Get as much fluids drained as you can before you pull the engine. If you pull the tranny and engine together drain the transmission too or it will empty all over your floor.

[TJ4FA]

Here's a link that might help as well as the info already posted:

http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyremovals.html

[4door64]

Another tip for ya
If you cant reach the bellhousing bolts (like I did) and you pull the tranny with the motor do like Ironman said and drain the fluids (I learned this the hard way) and also make sure you have somone helpin ya with that part cause its hard to snake it all out with just one person.

[Ironman]

Personally I find it is easier to drop the transmission before I pull the engine. Some people like to pull both at the same time.

[Pick]

I usually pull engine and trans together becuase it's about as easy as pulling just the motor, and usually I figure it's a good time to look the tranny over while I'm at it. I don't bother draining the tranny while it's in the car, instead I just put an old yoke on the output shaft so it doesn't leak out when I pull it.

I also leave the water pump on when I pull it, and I put the water pump back on before I put it back in. I like to take as much stuff on and off as possible while it's on the engine stand rather than after it's in the car as it's easier to do on the stand.

Just recently I've started using an egine cradle when pulling engine and tranny together and I really like it. Makes the whole job very easy.

Just my way of doing things, there is no one right way. The main thing is, have fun with it!

[Funkmaster Zachy]

The main thing is, have fun with it!

That'll be hard considering the engine is blown :mad:



Would it be easier to keep the transmission in, rather than pulling it? Can I just pull the engine itself or will I have to take the transmission with it?



TJ4FA - Thanks for the link! I printed it out and reading over through closely...Thanks!

Zach

[the FLYER]

Zach, i've removed both ways... sometimes i feel it's easier, sometimes not... pisser of an answer i know... IF ya pull just the engine... (removing the hood carefully as mentioned) once engine is loose, it's basically a straight up pull out of the engine bay. when pulling an engine/tranny combo it gets a bit more difficult in a way (i think) the car needs to be able to roll or the picker needs to roll. the tranny hangs inder the car quite a ways. so once engine is high enough yer gonna find ya need ta roll the car out from under the combo. prolly need in some cases ta remove radiator and core support AND grille. or ya need ta pull it out at a sharp angle to swing tranny tail housing out and away. i figger yer mechanically inclined as yer inta this stuff... having done it before or not, yer tackling it, so that's my meaning... get the hood off first and visually inspect it and you'll see most of the stuff that gets disconnected... as was mentioned masking tape/mark all wires, Don't Even think you'll remember... we All ferget things ;) take a good look at things as yer doing the basics first, try ta enjoy it. it's in a way like a big erector set... i bet you'll see the way that best suits your capabilities... it's comin' out, right ??? well there's lotsa tools used ta pull it, but only a couple ways it's comin' out. engine alone or engine tranny combo... and it's comin out the top ;)

take yer time, mark things... heck if ya wanna take lotsa pics, not just for us, but fer you ta look at during disassy/assy ;)


am i rambling ??? :rolleyes:






Johnny (shuttin' up now) Good Luck :D :D :D

[Paul Wright]

You can do it both ways. Pros and cons for both.
Here's some other things to consider. Where are you going to do it? It should be on flat pavement and not on a dirt or gravel driveway. The cherry picker won't roll. The jack stands will be unstable and it just sucks.

How long is the car going to sit? If you don't have a replacement engine then the car may sit for a while.
That can mean trouble with parents, neighbors, oridinance officers, police.

Befoe you yank it have a plan in place.

[DriveWFO]

Befoe you yank it have a plan in place.

Sounds like the plan should be to make sure you lock the bedroom door first :eek: :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D


Sorry Zach, that was just too funny to pass up!

[novaboy009]

2 points for team BANR. :D

I like to pull the engine separate. It's more of a pain to get the tranny out then it is to get to the top two engine-tranny bolts. I can get mine by jumping in the engine bay and sitting on the intake manifold with a 9/16 ratcheting wrench. The other option is 4 feet worth of extensions with a swivel trying to get it under the car with a normal ratchet and socket.

Kev

[arndog]

I pull mine with the tranny ... on a 1stgen this meant pulling the hood. Anybody know where you can get a tranny plug so you don't have to drain the fluid, also with the fluid in the TC I don't think you can "drain" it.

arndog

[Pick]

I pull mine with the tranny ... on a 1stgen this meant pulling the hood. Anybody know where you can get a tranny plug so you don't have to drain the fluid, also with the fluid in the TC I don't think you can "drain" it.

arndog

If you mean plugging the tail shaft, then get an old yoke without the driveshaft attached, and waa-laa, there's your plug....

[Funkmaster Zachy]

If I keep my tranny in, should I put a block of wood under the pan to keep it for support?


When I had my 350 pulled out of my Monte Carlo, the guy that basically did it for me (I was 13, give me a break, I can remember things that long ago :p ) he pulled the tranny... but that was also because I had planned to put it in another Monte Carlo when I was older... but I never planned on getting a Nova before now... and now look where I'm at! :mad:


If I pull the tranny you would think it would be a pain in the rear to get it back into placement when a new motor goes in....


(I found a 350 and a 454 for sale... any suggestions? :rolleyes: )

[Pick]

Yah, you'll definately need to support the tranny before you take out the bellhousing bolts and lift the motor. Instead of a block of wood and a jack, or whatever, I use a racheting nylon strap under the trans and around the frame rails so I can roll the car around if I need to while the engine is out.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Yah, you'll definately need to support the tranny before you take out the bellhousing bolts and lift the motor. Instead of a block of wood and a jack, or whatever, I use a racheting nylon strap under the trans and around the frame rails so I can roll the car around if I need to while the engine is out.


I was told NOT to do that because if it sits for a long time, which it has the possibility, it could bend the frame...and I defiantly don't want to do that...

I talked to some local mechanics today and some told me to pull the tranny, some told me to leave it... and one said he should kill me for messing up :eek:

It'll sit in my High School shop, so I'm not too worried about it. My main concern is how long it'll sit for.


Anyone know any sites on how to build a budget 350? I tried Kev's thread... but it was mainly how he got smoked by his buddy of his...:D


Zach

[the FLYER]

the first lesson in "Budgets" is this... first ya get it out and torn down, then you and yer instructor will inspect the engine. THAT will determine yer "budget"... if everything is in Great shape, then you'll be in a Great "Budget" if it's in lousy shape, well you can figger yer budget again. most important is ta look & pay attention to what yer instructor will show ya about each piece as the engine's dis-assembled. you'll see the condition of the bearings, the crank journals, the ridge in the cylinders... lotsa stuff. and everything ya see will effect the budget.


IF the engine "needs" this, then yer gonna have ta do it. don't try ta cut corners. an inexpensive rebuild/overhaul is one thing, but a bad worn out piece that's not addressed because it blows the budget will certainly come back and bite ya... so if ya can, yes, budget it... but if ya HAVE to... then yer gonna have to.


it all comes down ta what ya have when it's inspected... get that info and post results, lotsa guys can advise ya on the best, cheapest, hi dollar, you name it, the guys here can help. but first we need ta know Exactly what the condition is of yer engine... guessing will not work.


good luck ;)

[Funkmaster Zachy]

the first lesson in "Budgets" is this... first ya get it out and torn down, then you and yer instructor will inspect the engine. THAT will determine yer "budget"... if everything is in Great shape, then you'll be in a Great "Budget" if it's in lousy shape, well you can figger yer budget again. most important is ta look & pay attention to what yer instructor will show ya about each piece as the engine's dis-assembled. you'll see the condition of the bearings, the crank journals, the ridge in the cylinders... lotsa stuff. and everything ya see will effect the budget.


IF the engine "needs" this, then yer gonna have ta do it. don't try ta cut corners. an inexpensive rebuild/overhaul is one thing, but a bad worn out piece that's not addressed because it blows the budget will certainly come back and bite ya... so if ya can, yes, budget it... but if ya HAVE to... then yer gonna have to.


it all comes down ta what ya have when it's inspected... get that info and post results, lotsa guys can advise ya on the best, cheapest, hi dollar, you name it, the guys here can help. but first we need ta know Exactly what the condition is of yer engine... guessing will not work.


good luck ;)



My instructor? You mean me? My shop teacher is a p.o.s. hungover drunken coach :rolleyes: He doesn't know much about mechanics...he is more into the woodwork, and basically letting people do whatever they want. So it'll be Steve's NovaSites's members decision on what it will be, because I do indeed plan on taking a lot of pictures for people to point what I'm doing wrong and so they can laugh at me....


Zach

[the FLYER]

OK, in that case, we can still help. go ahead and get it out and as was mentioned, Yes, take a lot of shots, they will help...


if ya don't have one get a manual on yer car, there'll be an engine section. once you get engine tore down yer gonna need ta take all the parts of short block (pistons/rods/crank & block + heads) to a machine shop... they'll prolly wanna hot tank it first ta clean it, ask them if they'd first Mic the crank & block. that'll tell ya how bad cylinders are and condition of crank. take all old bearings too so the shop machinist can "read" them... bearing wear tells a story and he'll tell ya what's up.


let us know condition of block and crank and then we'll be able ta give ya some advice... plan on a valve job on the heads without even thinkin' about it...

IF the engine got really hot, with a 400 engine i'd recommend having the block and heads magnafluxed. the block & heads will need to be cleaned first, so right away, yer looking at charges. explain everything as best ya can to the machinist and he'll be able ta give ya some recommendations regarding the heating issue (if it got hot)


once he checks everything out, post what's up and we'll see how it goes...

[Funkmaster Zachy]

if ya don't have one get a manual on yer car, there'll be an engine section.


Where would be the easiest and cheapest way to get one? When I got my car, it didn't come with one...


I think I might go with the 350 and just leave the 400 for later down in the year when I have nothing to do and my shop teacher gets on my ***. Right now, I'm worried about pulling it and what I'm going to do after that.


But once I get my engine pulled (now I'm just being an idiot) I should actually tear my engine apart and so you I can actually see if its worth a rebuilt...

Zach

[the FLYER]

Pep Boys or whoever prolly has one or can order one. a Chiltons, Clymer, Haynes... there's a few brands out there...

if yer swapping engines, then i hope yer throwing in a running engine and ya know for a fact it's a "runner" or yer gonna find probs are chasing ya... if the engine's good... then the job is Lots easier and way less cashola...


i wouldn't tear down the other engine unless yer ready ta rebuild it... right now it's all together so nothing will get lost. a disassembled engine requires a certain amount of care to store properly for long term shelfing so i'd say leave it together till ya need it tore down...

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Looking back when the motor and transmission was pulled from the Monte Carlo, we didn't pull it with the engine, we did something else, but it's not really ringing a bell...

I also talked to some odler fellows tonight as well and they suggested pulling the transmission with the motor, so when I go to put the new motor it, I know for sure that the motor and transmission will be aligned and I will know that things won't break - Mind you I couldn't understand half their words because they were drunk, but thats basically what I got out of the whole deal.


Also another question when I take off the shroud, radiator, fan, should I just take off my whole front end (grille, bumper, fenders etc..) or just even the grille (just like Johnny pointed out) to make it even an easier pull. I know it'll be more work, but whatever is more easier, the better.

When taking the hood off, should I just unbolt it from the hinges, or unbolt the hinges with it?

Zach (with more questions to come :p )

[the FLYER]

ta make it easy... leave the hinges ON the car... remove hinges from hood only. here's a trick i was told by the body shop... take an 1/8" drill and wrap a piece of tape around it so you can only drill in 1/4" OR less... don't drill through yer hood !!! anyways, take the taped drill and just behind the bolts that hold the hinges to the hood, drill a hole. ya wanna go through the hinge and through the Lower hood panel, NOT all the way through (i said it twice ta stress it ;) ) 4 holes behind the 4 bolts... now when ya go ta reinstall the hood, ya take the drill and install in the holes snugly which will have the hood aligned exactly as it was prior to removal... but remember, don't remove the hinges from the car, only the hood area ;)


when ya get ready ta rejoin the engine to tranny, we'll help ya with the proper way to connect the two the right way to make sure it's aligned...



[edit] the reason i say 4 holes behind 4 bolts... the hinge may want to twist a little on removal... it fits on the hood now, so by having two alignment holes on each hinge, the hinge/hood will be realigned as it was on the car prior to removal... one hole at front (or rear) and the other end of hinge could be off a little... and a little off here could be a lot there... so 4 bolts, 4 holes ;)

[Funkmaster Zachy]

I also guess that link TJ4FA posted was also helpful too...

The hood will need to be removed. You may want to scribe around the hinges on the bottom of the hood to make re-aligning it a breeze. I used some orange paint on my black hood. Nice and visible. Another option is drilling two small alignment holes through the hinge and hood bracing while they're still bolted together. When it comes time to bolt the hood back on, just get the bolts started, slide some appropriately sized nails through the holes to align the hood and tighten the bolts.


Zach

[the FLYER]

no disrespect intended, i didn't read that... i saw yer questions and was replying to you... i read, but didn't read much of the other comments, i've been following yers, pretty much... as i said, no disrespect intended towards anyone... yer the one asking for help, so i'm yakkin' withya ;) :D :D


i've done it personally only as was specified in your quote. and for me, i never had it "perfect" not tryin' ta say anything, but the shop fit my panels much nicer than i could ever do and i don't wanna screw 'em up... i was told the drill way when i told them how concerned i was about my alignment when i too remove my hood for my drivetrain install... so i'm passing it on. my eyeball's are worn out and i don't see scribe lines too well anymore... without a telescope ;) for me, i'm gonna drill holes in my new paint :eek: :eek: :eek: :D


whichever way you choose to do this, make sure ya get it ta where it goes ;) :D

there're guys here that do such EXCELLENT work on their cars, their ways may be better than what i'm passing on, i'm just passing what i took as sound advice :D

i'm kickin' back watchin' TV and just lookin' at new posts... i saw ya yakkin' so i thought i'd participate ;) yer new here and i thought i'd break ya in with my post whoring. NOOO, not really... i'm not a whore... whores get paid... my BS is free... it's good talkin' to ya :D






J.Rotten LTD. (limited ???) Naw, unlimited :D :D :D

[novaboy009]

You can pull the engine taking nothing out, but I'd pull the grille out because you'll be leaning over it a lot. The tranny makes it a little harder but it can be done with the whole clip intact (at least with the 3rd/4th gens. I'd just pull the motor and leave the tranny alone. Less stuff to move around outside the car.

What condition is the 350 in?

Kev

[DriveWFO]

I've done both (with, w/o tranny). I now pull the motor w/o the tranny because I don't have to mess with draining the transmission, removing cooler lines, pulling driveshaft, etc. I don't have any help, so it's much easier dropping the motor in without the tranny attached to it.

Also, whoever told you the frame rails would bend from using a ratchet strap to support the front of the tranny must be on crack :eek:

[NovaNate]

I pulled mine both at the same time but it was a 6/powerglide, barely cleared the front clip. Just be slow!!! Don't force things...take the time to find out what is catching. Unhook everything....if you don't get all the fluids...oh well that is life, it just makes a mess. If you pull the engine with the tranny take out the drive shaft first! It is easy! ( I didn't and I paid!)

I've got some photos of the process at my site:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/831392/3

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well after today, I took the hood off and drained the radiator and oil. Tomorrow I'm labeling things and taking off hoses and such! It's going to be interesting...


I think I'm going to keep the transmission in when I pull the motor. If I do this, will I still have to take off the drive shaft? Considering I'm not taking the transmission off, so it should be fine where its at right?

Can someone clarify exactly what to do on how to keep the transmission supported into place? I've been hearing a bunch of methods, but I need to do the method that will work!


I didn't take any pictures, considering that it was just minor things... hopefully tomorrow things will start rolling in :D



Zach (now its underway)

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well after today, I took the hood off and drained the radiator and oil. Tomorrow I'm labeling things and taking off hoses and such! It's going to be interesting...


I think I'm going to keep the transmission in when I pull the motor. If I do this, will I still have to take off the drive shaft? Considering I'm not taking the transmission off, so it should be fine where its at right?

Can someone clarify exactly what to do on how to keep the transmission supported into place? I've been hearing a bunch of methods, but I need to do the method that will work!


I didn't take any pictures, considering that it was just minor things... hopefully tomorrow things will start rolling in :D



Zach (now its underway)



I had a good talk with a friendly mechanic and he strongly reccomended pulling the tranny as well, just so I can clean her up, inspect it, and replace the seals and everything so I don't have to do it ever gave out...

So I'm thinking NOW pulling it with the tranny, and instead of removing the whole drive shaft, I'm thinking I will just have to do the front where it meets with the transmission (This is making sense right guys?)

And what exactly should I do about the wiring and how should I label them? scotch tape with the printed name of where it goes? Or take a picture of every wire I pull and attach the picture to the cord? :D :p


Zach

[the FLYER]

yeah, me again... remove the two "U" bolts from the rear of driveshaft where it joins the differential... then the driveshaft slides out of the tranny. use a freezer bag or two and place over the tailshaft of tranny and tape up good with duct tape to try and minimize leakage of tranny fluid.. best ta drain first, but some may remain...

Masking tape works better than scotch in my opinion, easier ta read. label all plug wires, wires to coil, starter, alt... anything ya disconnect, tape and mark.

if ya can, every bolt ya remove, as the piece is removed, put the bolt back into the hole so ya know THAT bolt went "there"... and take shots that you need to show this goes there like that... not really for us, but for you. you can when it's time, tell us what yer seein' in the shots you take and maybe we can help tell ya what's up with whatever yer showin'/askin'/tellin' us...


be Good :D

[Funkmaster Zachy]

I also forgot to add that I also had some leaks from the transmission lines, so I kind of have no choice, I'd rather pull the tranny now and replace the lines, although it'll probably won't be any tougher replacing them from where they sit right now?


yeah, me again... remove the two "U" bolts from the rear of driveshaft where it joins the differential... then the driveshaft slides out of the tranny. use a freezer bag or two and place over the tailshaft of tranny and tape up good with duct tape to try and minimize leakage of tranny fluid.. best ta drain first, but some may remain...


Picking up from last night, eh? (Canadian whoo!)



When you say the two "U" bolts, do you mean the U-Joints?


Just curious... And should I pay attention to how much fluid I lose? Because if I just drain it... whats the point of watching the leaks? I'm in my HS Shop, where I won't have to clean the mess up... until I can move the car out :D


Zach

[the FLYER]

No, not u-joints... at the rear of the driveshaft. there's 4 bolts that you'll see that hold the driveshaft in... they're either "U" bolts, or ya have straps... regardless of what ya have, remove 'em and the driveshaft will slide out.


to my knowledge, sometimes i ferget things, the tranny hold 5 qts and the converter 6qts for a total of, naturally, 11qts. but not all this will come out of tranny when it's drained... only what's in the tranny... but as yer pullin' it fluid will still come out back of tranny... so bag it, whatever.

it'll make a big mess if it leaks

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Alright. I guess it'll make more sense when I'm under the car doing it :)


So what if I come across a loose wire that wasn't plugged in, because I have noticed their are several of them laying around.


So considering I'm now pulling the transmission as well, should I now take out as much as my front end as much as possible? Grille.. etc.. Or can I still leave the grille and work my way around everything with the engine and tranny?

[the FLYER]

are ya gonna do this in one setting or take a little more time ???

if this is yer first time by yerself, i'd say take two days, maybe three... get everything ready ta go and before ya pull... stop. report back to the guys... just in case.


any wire that's loose or never been connected, tag it and mark it as "unused". this in time maybe can be figured out... but for now, i'd recommend sticking specifically with the issues at hand...

the radiator, shroud... start with that first... take shots and report back... we have no idea the specific lift equipment you'll be using, some are better than others and might have ta do with how much needs to be removed.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

are ya gonna do this in one setting or take a little more time ???

if this is yer first time by yerself, i'd say take two days, maybe three... get everything ready ta go and before ya pull... stop. report back to the guys... just in case.


any wire that's loose or never been connected, tag it and mark it as "unused". this in time maybe can be figured out... but for now, i'd recommend sticking specifically with the issues at hand...

the radiator, shroud... start with that first... take shots and report back... we have no idea the specific lift equipment you'll be using, some are better than others and might have ta do with how much needs to be removed.


Will do. Tomorrow I'm gonna attempt to take off the radiator and shroud (and fan?) Then I will hopefully get pictures taken, then on Thursday I will start labeling hoses and wires... I'm not too worried about the radiator hoses... I can probably pic those out easily...

Thanks Rotten for the help tonight, I guess I'll be reporting back in tomorrow night with hopefully pictures and progress for you guys!


Zach

[the FLYER]

i'm not tryin' ta sound smarta$$... take yer time. it's important and you'll thank yerself later if ya do ;)


don't rush.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

i'm not tryin' ta sound smarta$$... take yer time. it's important and you'll thank yerself later if ya do ;)


don't rush.


Alright alright... I just hope I can get my hands ahold of a digital camera... mine broke, and I have to sweet talk my ol' computer teacher into letting me use of the schools, although he gave me a dumb look when I asked him today...

[chevynuts88]

Before removing the driveshaft [after removing the two rear u bolts] don,t forget to put masking tape over the two caps of the ujoints to keep them from falling off .You don,t want to lose any of the neeedle bearings that are inside.

[Paul Wright]

Here's a pix of how the driveshaft attaches to the rearend.

Jack the car onto jack stands so the rear suspension is hanging.
Remove the 4 bolts and the 2 straps.
carefully pry the u-joints from the saddles.
The idea is to be sure the caps don't come off and scatter little needle bearings everywhere. Duct tape around them before removing the drive shaft.
Hopefully, you degreased the shaft end so the tape actually sticks.
Let the shaft end down and pull backwards supporting the front.
The yoke will slide out of the trans.
Hopefully, you drained the trans otherwise a ton of red fluid is going to come out the tail shaft when you pull the trans.

[Paul Wright]

Here's a pix of the TH350 removal points.

1. Drain the fluid. If you don't have a drain plug then you'll have to take the pan off. leave a bolt in the slanted corner so it tips to the opposite corner. This will let it pour into the drain pan with less mess.

2. Tranny cooler lines. You'll need a flare nut wrench to prevent ruining the fittings. A Crows foot flare wrench, and extension and ratchet is the trick to getting rusted steel lines off. Stainless lines are even tricker. These look great after 200,000 miles of Michigan salt and slush. I wish I could make everything out of the stuff.

3. Three torque converter bolts. Slide the torque converter back into the trans.
You'll need a flywheel turning tool to hold the flywheel when loosening the bolts. There are other ways, but sorry I'm a professional.

4. The vacuum modulator hose and hard line.

5. Dipstick tube is attached to the bellhousing. Remove that bolt. The kick down cable is attached to the throttle bracket. Detach it up there and make sure it's free. Leave the other end in the tranny.

6. The shift linkage and speedo cable.

7. The lower trans mount bolt (one or two). Notice the polyurethane trans mount held up good also.

8. (Not shown) Bell housing bolts. A long 3/8 drive extension and a 9/16" swivel socket is the trick.

9. Support the pan with a 6x6" board on a floor jack. A real Trans jack is preferred.

10. Remove the cross member.

11. Carefully lower trans and remove. It will be tippy and might fall if you don't balance it carefully! Two strong buddies would be handy. Hopefully, you have the car high enough to get it out. Strong and stable Jack stands will save you from being crushed.

I can't emphasis enough to work carefully and safely.
It's not a race to have your car in a million pieces then let it sit while you figure out how to pay for parts to fix it. Trust me on that!
More pix later but this old turtle works slow.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well guys, yesterday I took pictures for everyone to see, I just took pictures of things I thought could be important. I tried taking pictures of unhooked wires and hoses.

Click here (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/)

Today though made me pretty ticked. This kid dropped out of a class just to join my shop period (I was the only one in there) and my teacher asked him to get a project and he said it would be several weeks until he got one but he said he'd help me out. So I decided it would be a good idea, considering I could make him do all the dirty work underneath... But after I asked him to drain the transmission and he gave me a dumb look and said "Yeah, I've drained plenty of transmissions" So I told him to get on it. He climbed under and after about 5 minutes, he was like "uhh, this transmission isnt right, their isn't a plug, this is the wierdest tranmission I've seen, it must be a different type" I pulled him back from my car and told him he was done. If he can't drain a simple area, then he won't be helping me. So after him standing around and watching me attempt to disconnect my transmission lines from the radiator, he starts taking the battery out, it made me happy that he actually saw work to do - that was about it. He wasted my time today, I didn't even get anything done but pulled the transmission lines and the hoses so the radiator is ready to for tomorrow :D

And once again I talked to a fellow Nova owner, who is dropping a 454 in his '72 Nova, he explained to me in simple words and said I can pull the transmission, but angling it will be a pain when taking it out, and putting it back in. So he explained to me (as you guys did, but he did some visuals, hehe) and showed me that I can replace seals just as easily as I can when the transmission is still attached. He also noted that taking the driveshaft, unhooking lines are also a pain (Well, not really a pain, just a waist of time in his opinion) So I'm pretty excited, I'm keeping the transmission in! (After the fifth time I changed my mind)

Pictures WILL be posted tomorrow night of hopefully good progress...


Zach (starting to roll)

[Pick]

Man, I wish you were somewhere here in Middle TN where I could get you over to the house and we'd have that thing out in no time, but, since you're not, it sounds like you're making progress! Keep that camera handy and the good folks around here will keep you on the right track. It's good to see somebody from the next generation taking the bull by the horns and tackling a project like this. Good on ya man!

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Man, I wish you were somewhere here in Middle TN where I could get you over to the house and we'd have that thing out in no time, but, since you're not, it sounds like you're making progress! Keep that camera handy and the good folks around here will keep you on the right track. It's good to see somebody from the next generation taking the bull by the horns and tackling a project like this. Good on ya man!

Thanks man for the kind words.... You're dang right I'm takin the bull by the horns, AND I'm going to ride it like... well ... you know...

[Paul Wright]

Those pictures are pretty big and I'm not sure if they need to be posted here.
Maybe set up a photoalbum and store them there and just post the link.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Those pictures are pretty big and I'm not sure if they need to be posted here.
Maybe set up a photoalbum and store them there and just post the link.


Taken care of :)

[TJ4FA]

Sure wish I could get some free labor...

Send him my way when your done with him. I have a little project out in my back yard that I could use a couple spare hands with. :D

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Mad4Morgans/74NOVA250.jpg

[DANNO]

A mechanic friend of mine helped me swap the engine from my Monte Carlo into my Nova. (heck, he even let me undo some of the bolts. :D ) A few months later, my daughter blew the engine in her Dodge Shadow. Using what I had learned from him, I was able to replace her engine by myself. So, agreeing with TJ's basic premise, we all have to start somewhere and it's nice to have some guidance. Let the guy help and you'll both learn something.


Dan (just a suggestion);)

[novaboy009]

Agreed. It sounds like he's not a total car idiot. I'm sure you'll appreciate the second hand when you start ripping the motor out and putting it back in.

Kev

[TJ4FA]

Well now that you have "help"...you done yet?

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Yeah, you guys are probably right, but if you knew me, or this kid, you'll understand why (I'm as stubborn as it can be when it comes to things like that) And I didn't say I didn't appreciate his help, if it wasn't for him, my car wouldn't be on ramps right now. It just frustrates me that he talks oh-so-highly of himself. That's where I'm coming at, I'm not ungrateful or anything, I just don't like conceited people.

But anyways, progress! Today, after a tough time with the bottom tranny line (I had the top one off, but not the bottom one, which was rounded all to hel) I eventually had to cut it. But it doesn't bother me really since I'm replacing them anyways. After I did that, I took the hoses off, and pulled the radiator, shroud, and fan! Tuesday, I hopefully will have belts, and hopefully all the hoses disconnected from the engine.

I took pictures as well, Click Here (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/) to view pictures. It's 15-24. I tried taking pictures of the tran. line I had to cut, but it's blurry, oh well... hope you guys enjoy so far...

Suggestions are welcome from this point now


Zach (stubborn as they come)

[Paul Wright]

I elected to remove the transmission from my wagon because I don't want any trouble this winter. It worked ok, but it is high mileage and was starting to leak. I've learned many times that it's Murphy's Law that even if something high mileage works "fine" now, if you don't fix it now, it will cause problems later!

It wasn't that bad and I did it all myself except for the lowering part.

Here's pix of the crows foot flare tool; the bellhousing bolt extension trick and why you need to make sure the car is high enough to clear the trans.

[Paul Wright]

Here's the trans out. It's on a little dolly I got at a school garage sale.
You could make one real easy with a board and 4 casters.
Makes it easy to roll it around the garage and to the car. I put the trans on a milk crate to finish draining the rest of the fluid out so it doesn't do so in my wife's minivan.

The engine is ready to remove. Only the 2 engine cross bolts are holding it in.

[DriveWFO]

I ran into the same problem trying to slide the tranny out while it was on the floor jack. I turn the front wheels all the way to the left and I was able to move the bellhousing up under where the subframe bends upwards and then pulled the tranny out that way. Clear as mud?!?!

[Funkmaster Zachy]

I use a racheting nylon strap under the trans and around the frame rails so I can roll the car around if I need to while the engine is out.


Can someone find a picture kind of demonstrating this method please if anyone wouldn't mind....




Thanks Paul for the pictures!

Zach

[NIGHTSHADE]

Only 14 bolts and a couple of lines and it rolled right out. :D
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Nightbringer/Clipoff.jpg

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Only 14 bolts and a couple of lines and it rolled right out. :D
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/nightshade63/Nightbringer/Clipoff.jpg

I don't think I'm going to do that! :D :p


Also, is their a wiring diagram somewhere (on where all your wires will route to?) or will it have to be out of complete memorization? (if thats the case, I'll have to take thousands upon thousands more pictures)



Zach (Tomorrow progress will continue once again)

[batman09]

use blue tape and label everything.bm

[Funkmaster Zachy]

use blue tape and label everything.bm


Thats what I've been doin, but not with blue tape, but what about the wires that arent even connect to anything? dont label them? or label them unattached or something?


Zach

[simmondj]

Hey Zach,

Label everything. If the wires don't go anywhere, which is odd, label them. Believe me it will save you a lot of confusion when you put that sucker back in.

Also someone mentioned getting a manual early on in the thread. Wouldn't be a bad idea. Haynes has a manual out just on V8 Chevs and when it comes time to tear down and inspect the guts of that thing this manual will be a life saver and cut out a lot of the guess work. Also it might help the guy trying to help you.

Just my two cents

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Hey Zach,

Label everything. If the wires don't go anywhere, which is odd, label them. Believe me it will save you a lot of confusion when you put that sucker back in.

Also someone mentioned getting a manual early on in the thread. Wouldn't be a bad idea. Haynes has a manual out just on V8 Chevs and when it comes time to tear down and inspect the guts of that thing this manual will be a life saver and cut out a lot of the guess work. Also it might help the guy trying to help you.

Just my two cents


I enjoyed your two cents, thank you simmondj...


Well, after I was pressed for time today, I got my heat hoses (I think thats what they are, maybe vacuum hoses, not sure). I got my two belts off and I got my alternator off, and I disconnected the two wires that were connected to them and I taped them together and labeled them 'Alternator', then I turned to the power steering pump. I loosend it so the belt could come right off, but after that, I ran into a little problem... the hoses/lines that is connected to the back to them. I'm not exactly sure on what to do there. So I took some pictures of them, maybe you guys can clarify or help me out there.

Click Here (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/) to look at updated progress, pictures 25 - 37



Zach

[batman09]

Hey Zach,
Before you continue...You should really get a chilton or haynes manual.Your gonna get lost without it.spend $20 and save yourself a giant headache.bm

http://cgi.ebay.com/Chiltons-GM-Nova-Chevy-II-1962-79-Repair-Manual-NEW_W0QQitemZ170024658944QQihZ007QQcategoryZ378QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAYNES-MANUAL-69-79-CHEVROLET-NOVA-H24059-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6762QQihZ016QQitemZ 260026679206QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAYNES-REPAIR-MANUAL-CHEVROLET-NOVA-1969-1979-V8-MOTOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34226QQihZ012QQit emZ220024724002QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[TJ4FA]

FZ, Buying the Hayne's Manual is money well spent. I was never impressed with Chilton manuals.

Haynes has some troubleshooting sections and wiring schematics as well as good illustrations.

You'll need things like bolt torques and tightening sequences when you go to put the engine back together.

Without knowing one small detail on your rebuild, like which way the engine block rings are "up" will cause you to re-do all your work. :(

I speak from experience on this mistake I made on my first rebuild. I had installed a few rings upside down.:o The car had good oil pressure for the first few miles... :mad:

The upside to this was that I could do the whole process over quicker the second time around.

[Colin]

Funkmaster, I have the wiring diagram in PDF format if you post your email address I will send it to you. You can print it out when you start puting things back together.

[Paul Wright]

If you are just going to install another engine, then just gently pull the PS aside and use a heavy rubber truckers bungee to hold it up against the fenderwell.
Other option is to remove the two hoses. The suction side has a hose clamp and the high pressure side has a tube nut. Use a Flare nut wrench so you don't round it off. Have a drain bucket handy since it will piss fluid all over.

[novaboy009]

Just set it there, trust me, power steering pumps aren't fun to remove. The nuts are usually gaulded on and even the tube wrenches round them off. I had to take a pair of vice grips and whack it with a hammer to get my old pwr steering pump off.

Kev

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Funkmaster, I have the wiring diagram in PDF format if you post your email address I will send it to you. You can print it out when you start puting things back together.

funkmasterzachy@hotmail.com


Thanks guys, I'm going to go to the bookstore today and see if they have it, if not, I'll order them online!


Zach

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well guys I’m making more and more progress, although it doesn’t seem like much, I think I’m getting pretty close! Today I marked the rest of the wires and hoses, unplugged everything from the engine, and then I took off my carburetor. I also unbolted my exhaust, problem on one though was I unbolted the three bolts, and it was still attached, I pried it open, still, on one side it’s still attached. I asked around and they said it should come off when I start pulling the motor, hopefully.

So, so it’s getting close, I think… I still have many concerns though. For one, what should I do with my distributor and spark plugs? Leave them all in and pull it, or should I take it off now so I won’t have to worry about damaging anything?

I’m still concerned on the transmission, as I have yet to find any visuals on the nylon strap that holds it up.

I also went and ordered the manual books, both Haynes and Chiltons, so I should be receiving them soon.

What do you guys think? Am I getting close? Or do I still have a long way to go?

Pictures 38 - 45: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/




Thanks!
- Zach

[Paul Wright]

Remove the distributor cap, plug wires and spark plugs. Remove both the exhaust manifolds.

As far as where the ratchet strap goes, it's simple. Just look at the transmission and the rear cross member. The cross member supports the back of the tranny but what's going to hold up the front of the transmission once the engine is out? Ok, so put the ratchet strap under the front of the transmission and hooked to each frame rail at an open hole. It doesn't have to be tight as a fiddle string. It just supports the front of the transmission so it doesn't fall down.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Remove the distributor cap, plug wires and spark plugs. Remove both the exhaust manifolds.

As far as where the ratchet strap goes, it's simple. Just look at the transmission and the rear cross member. The cross member supports the back of the tranny but what's going to hold up the front of the transmission once the engine is out? Ok, so put the ratchet strap under the front of the transmission and hooked to each frame rail at an open hole. It doesn't have to be tight as a fiddle string. It just supports the front of the transmission so it doesn't fall down.

Is there a certain order I should remember my spark plugs by?

Should I remove my water pump, some people say leave it, and some people take it off... I was thinking taking it off for easier clearance, but then when putting it back in, putting it back on before hand for easier use?

I have a question on the exhaust manifolds, why remove the exhaust manifolds? When this guy pulled my 350 SB out of my Monte Carlo, he left the exhaust manifolds on... just curious

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/350%20Smallblock/EnginePic01.jpg


My next project after my car (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/350%20Smallblock/)


This anxiety is killin' me! I can't do much Thursday or Monday, because Friday, and Tuesday, I have to go solicit ad's for my yearbook for school :( (I think I'm going to make a big page on NPHNP!) So tomorrow and Monday, I don't want to get hung up on something big, and let it sit over the weekend, and then pick up Monday, then let it sit half way done until Wednesday, so I think for the next couple days, it'll be prep work, making sure everything is out of the way, noting things that concern me so you guys can help, and hopefull I will have my manuals by then!


Zach

[TJ4FA]

Looks good so far...http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Mad4Morgans/ThumbsUp.gif

Is there a certain order I should remember my spark plugs by?

Here is a link to an illustration for the 400 firing order until you get your books. You might want to label your wires unless you leave them
attached to the distributor cap when you remove it.

http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

(While you're here, you might want to check out their sample video clips on engine pulling/building. Maybe you can talk your shop teacher into
buying the DVD for the school ;) )

http://boxwrench.net/product_index.htm

If you pull your plugs, you might want to check them for their appearance as it may lead you to the internal condition of your engine. But if you do,
I would put them right back in to prevent something from falling into the open hole getting inside the engine chamber.

This link shows photos how plugs look under different conditions:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

Are you going to paint the engine bay/suspension stuff after you get the engine out?
This may be a good time to do it. I'd recommend you scrape off the scaling rust and use a rust neutralizer like Ospho before you paint. You should be
able to pick up a quart of Ospho at a paint store for about $15-. It'll neutralize the rust and turn it into a primer like coating for painting.

[Paul Wright]

You don't have to take them off but since the exhaust is still in place, it will be easier to remove with the manifolds off. I have a question. Are you going to try to fix that blown engine or are you going to just replace it with another?

[Funkmaster Zachy]

You don't have to take them off but since the exhaust is still in place, it will be easier to remove with the manifolds off. I have a question. Are you going to try to fix that blown engine or are you going to just replace it with another?

That is what I had originally planned on yes. I also got to thinking last night, if I took the exhaust manifolds off, it would actually help clearance wise taking the engine out...


TJ4FA: Once again, another helpful post! Thanks!



Zach

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well, after I used the diagram TJ4FA gave me, I was able to label my spark plugs and take the distributor cap off. Then after I took the water pump off, I wasn't really thinking, tilted the water pump all over me, and I think it was anti-freeze, spilt all over me! :o :( I felt like an idiot, but oh well, it was great too, some kids came down that was filming for a computer class came down and filmed the whole thing. It wasn't much fluid, but it was enough to make me look like a moron. (What I did was lift it over my head screaming I am the champion!!!)... embarrassing yes...

But now what else? I have everything else, I think I might actually take the exhaust manifolds off, because I was looking for clearance wise, and it looks pretty tight on the passengers side where the I think the vaccuum department is? (Don't get me wrong) I think... But who knows? You guys mind on stirring me in the right direction now? I still have yet to remove the rest of the transmission lines because I'm a moron and the exhaust is in the way, all I did was just unbolt it from manifold. (I think)... So now do I start preparing myself for the transmission and engine pull or what? When I pull the engine out, should I take the torque covertor out as well with it (Not with the pull, but after the engine is pulled) Or should I keep it with it, not wanting to risk damage to the seal?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/?start=40 Pictures 46 - 57


Zach (Almost there...:confused: )

[TJ4FA]

:eek:

Imagine that photo showing up in your high school yearbook (and all future class reunions). You might want to pay their ransom fee and get the film from them.

It's kinda like jobs in real life. You can do a gazillion good things, but just screw up once and its remembered forever.

As far as the incident...no blood, no foul. Screw-ups are how we all learn so don't put yourself down for gaining "experience".

From your photo gallery (good photo-documentary job there) that distributor looks too close to the firewall the leave in. It may get damaged when tilting the engine when its to be lifted and removed.

It figures I find a article on pulling engines now. You might want to take the time to read through it. It mentions stuff about the torque converter that you should know (ie marking torque converter position relative to the flywheel ect.) It also talks a little about transmission lines and exhuasts and other things to include...ahh...err...fluids. :D ;)

http://www.classicoldsmobile.com/tech/97.shtml

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well I can't do anything today because I have to go solicit yearbook ads, so I think right now would be a good time to thank everyone for their help so far. It's really appreciated when you guys take time out of your life to help some little bugger' like me. You guys show the real true example of NPHNP.



Zach

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Alright, I got school tomorrow, and I believe I should have mechanic class, so now I got a question - will the distributor be fine now considering that the cap is off? or should I just remove the whole thing? Or just the rotor(sp?)

Not quite sure if its too close to the firewall or not, or if I mis-angle it, it'll touch something, should I remove the whole thing just to be safe?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/55.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/57.jpg

Sorry if the images are too big, I'll link them if they are...


Zach

[the FLYER]

you'll find it easier i believe if it's removed... ;)

[Funkmaster Zachy]

you'll find it easier i believe if it's removed... ;)


This might sound dumb, but is there only one bolt to the intake manifold holding it in place? Or do I have to rotate it to get it out...or what? I looked at it today, because I guess my shop teacher had to leave so I had to go into another classroom, but I had enough time to observe it. From what I saw, there was only one bolt, but I'm not sure...



Zach (This week is going to go slow for progress...)

[Sh1fter]

There will only be the one bolt. As you lift the distributor, the rotor may turn as it climbs up the cam gear. Go ahead and remove the bolt and hold-down and lift 'er out.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Today I got my distributor off and my front main pulley(?), getting ready to get underneath and get to start working the transmission. Sunday I am going to go into the shop and pull it that day hopefully, where I will have all day. Can't Saturday, its homecoming week. Got some questions, especially on pictures 67, 73, 75, and 76.

67 - This might sound stupid, but the "blue" thing, thats the starter right? Should I remove it?

73, 75, and 76 - Thats the bottom of my car, not too sure, I found some of the bolts from the transmission to the engine, but not too sure, and I'm not sure either on where to put my jack under the transmission to keep it level when pulling the engine...

Am I getting close? It feels like it...:confused: :eek:

Pictures 58 - 76 (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/?start=40)


Thanks guys!


Zach

[TJ4FA]

Yup that blue thing is your starter (and red thing is the starter solenoid mounted on top of it). You will need to remove the starter. This will give you some access into the flexplate attached to the rear of the engine (the toothed wheel the starter engages to turn the engine over) and torque converter.

On this link I provided earlier--->http://www.classicoldsmobile.com/tech/97.shtml You are about here: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Mad4Morgans/transpull.jpg
You will need to disconnect the speedometer cable on the left of picture 74 and the other line on the right side.

The torque converter shield is the dust shield right behind the oil pan on the bottom of the transmission.

I can't tell from the photos but have you removed your driveshaft yet? If you haven't make sure you scratch some index lines on the rearend pinion flange and the yoke of the driveshaft (where they bolt together) so you can put them back together the same way later on.

When you pull the driveshaft out of the transmission end, you will lose some hydraulic fluid so be ready to drain it or plug it up.

Until your books show up, you should use the site posted above for reference but keep an eye out for anything else that the author may have forgot to mention.

Terry

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Terry - No I do not have the driveshaft out. When you pull the driveshaft out of the transmission end, you will lose some hydraulic fluid so be ready to drain it or plug it up.


Is it necessary to remove my driveshaft? If I'm leaving the transmission in, what's the point of removing the driveshaft? Just curious...


And I should probably remove my spark plugs if I pull my exhaust manifolds... right? Because I've already pulled my exhaust from my manifolds, but Paul Wright suggested I should, and I was looking at clearance wise, and I think it would be a good choice.

Also, where should I place my jack under my transmission at? That has been probably bugging me the most out of anything, do I position it to the front, or to the back?

Also, in picture 69, the transmission lines seem free, and is not running through anything, so I think it might be easier for me to leave them in until the engine is out, considering the fact that is pretty tough to reach right now, but maybe after some things are removed and dismantled, it might get easier...

Thanks again guys!


Zach

[TJ4FA]

My bad...I thought you were pulling the transmission. No need to remove the driveshaft or the speedometer cable.

I would also think you could leave the hydraulic lines attached to the transmission as long as they don't get in the way of pulling the engine out.

You will still need to remove the starter though.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

My bad...I thought you were pulling the transmission. No need to remove the driveshaft or the speedometer cable.

I would also think you could leave the hydraulic lines attached to the transmission as long as they don't get in the way of pulling the engine out.

You will still need to remove the starter though.

When pulling the starter, I should disconnect the starter solenoid red thingy bo bob right?

And Once I get my starter out, place a jack underneath towards the front of the transmission or towards the back? Then unbolt the bolts that go from the transmission to the engine (or before placing the stand, can I unbolt the bolts?) and start lifting the engine... or what?

Zach :o

[DriveWFO]

When pulling the starter, I should disconnect the starter solenoid red thingy bo bob right?

And Once I get my starter out, place a jack underneath towards the front of the transmission or towards the back? Then unbolt the bolts that go from the transmission to the engine (or before placing the stand, can I unbolt the bolts?) and start lifting the engine... or what?

Zach :o

You need to support the front of the transmission. The crossmember will support the back of it. I leave my starter in place when pulling the motor, but I may have more room than you do, not sure. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you remove the wires from the started solenoid. Take some masking tape and label the starter wires so you know how to put them back on.

Triple-check to make sure you've removed ALL wires/cables that would keep the motor from coming out. If you haven't already, pull the distributor out before you pull the motor.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

So do I or do I not have to remove my starter? I am not sure of clearance wise, but I know there is a wiring galore and I do not want to mess with the start. I got it down, hanging on by wires because I needed to see what you guys have to say, label them all, or put it back into place?


DriveWFO - what year is your car? Isn't it a 4th gen? How much room do you have?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/?start=all


Pictures 77 - 82



Zach

[DriveWFO]

So do I or do I not have to remove my starter? I am not sure of clearance wise, but I know there is a wiring galore and I do not want to mess with the start. I got it down, hanging on by wires because I needed to see what you guys have to say, label them all, or put it back into place?


DriveWFO - what year is your car? Isn't it a 4th gen? How much room do you have?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/?start=all


Pictures 77 - 82



Zach

Mine is a 74 (3rd gen). I remove my passenger-side header before I pull the motor and that gives me plenty of room to work with the starter in place. If you do remove the starter first, be careful it doesn't smack you in the head! They are HEAVY!!!

[Paul Wright]

Remove the starter.
If you are going to fix the engine you have or replace it with another, all these parts will have to be removed anyway.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Alright, you guys convinced me, I'll pull the starter.... I finally got a visual today on how the transmission could be supported, I went to a Nova owner (72!) and he had an engine pulled and had left his transmission in, he showed me what he did (I'm not sure if this is how you guys were explaining it)... He got two long new bolts, and had a piece of steel, that was long enough to fit over the frame. As a friend was slowly lowering the transmission, he had placed the two bolts in the corner of the transmission (where you bolt the transmission into the engine), and placed the bar under, the two bolts sat right on the bar, thus, supporting the transmission... I'll have to take pictures of it tomorrow if I have my camera handy. I aimed for Sunday when I will pull the engine. I'm pretty excited, I won't have a chance again this week to work on it :( Tomorrow, for homecoming reasons, we have to go to some dancing assembly, and then Friday we have a pep ralley, so needless to say, I hope my shop teacher will let me stay after school so I can remove my exhaust manifolds and get ready for the transmission.

If you do remove the starter first, be careful it doesn't smack you in the head! They are HEAVY!!!

I was fortunate enough to remember that and held it, but the wires held it and it rested on the transmission lines as well. The starter is bolted back in until I can get at it again.


Zach

[TJ4FA]

I hope my shop teacher will let me stay after school... Zach

:eek: Now I know you're a sick bastidge!!

Oh well...I gotta go now. I want to make sure I show up to work early. ;)

[Funkmaster Zachy]

The bookstore called me yesterday, saying my order was in for one book, and it was Chilton's, but I plan on purchasing Haynes over the internet. I just now have to go and get it whenever I get the chance.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well guys! Great news! Last night (Sunday) I was unable to pull it because of difficulties, but I did get a lift plate. So today during school, I removed my starter, put the lift plate on, removed the cover plate that was covering the torque convertor and the flywheel, then I unbolted the three bolts from the flywheel from the torque convertor. Then school got out, I went home and took a break, but about 6 o'clock I went to the school and my shop teacher let me go into the shop to work. I unbolted my bellhousing bolts from my transmission to the engine, removed the fuel pump, unbolted the motor mount bolts and I set a jack under the transmission pan, and I set a 6x6 piece of wood on the jack as I raised the jack until I met with the pan, and I raised it a little more, probably half an inch, not even maybe. As that was supported, I raised my engine right out! I got the flywheel off and put the engine on the stand.

I then got a steel pipe and cut it perfect length that lied right across the frame, and I put two bolts in the transmission (The pictures will explain itself) and I lowered the jack and the transmission is sitting on the steel pipe.

I also got my Chilton GM Nova/Chevy II 62-79 Repair Manual. I will have to order Hayne's off the internet.

Click Here to View Pictures 83-96 (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v69/zrossmiller/1973%20Nova/Pulling%20the%20Engine/?start=all)

It was a really fun experience and I learned a lot. No doubt I could not have done without the help of you guys. Everyone who helped me: Paul Wright, Terry, Johnny Rotten, 4door64, Ironman, Pick, Kev' (novaboy009), DriveWFO, Batman, DANNO, NIGHTSHADE (sort of :D), amongst others, you were all a great asset in helping me complete my first pull. It means a lot that a lot of you guys can take time out of your life and sit around and browse through the message board and help someone like me. Means a lot, you guys defiantly put the Nova People Helping Nova People in well, NPHNP... thank you guys!


Sincerely,
Zach

[4door64]

Lookin good mane glad you got it out. Good idea on the tranny, I never would have thought of that. :cool:

[novaboy009]

Well, now you have the "how to pull a motor" part down, now you have to get to the "how to rebuild an engine" segment of your automotive education.

[Funkmaster Zachy]

Well, now you have the "how to pull a motor" part down, now you have to get to the "how to rebuild an engine" segment of your automotive education.

You can say that again. I have a couple books on it, don't know yet... All I know is that its easier tearing it down than putting back together...

First thing first is cleaning it because I don't want to tear down a dirty ol' greasey engine...



Zach

[simmondj]

Congratulations.

Can't wait to see what you build

[4door64]

You can say that again. I have a couple books on it, don't know yet... All I know is that its easier tearing it down than putting back together...

First thing first is cleaning it because I don't want to tear down a dirty ol' greasey engine...



Zach

To clean a motor I think Simple Green and a brush and water works best.

I dont think rebuilds are that hard, I would rather rebuild one then pull one out :D but thats prob just me :D

[Len66]

i just pulled mine together it seemed easier. imo

[71NovaSSClone]

Is it easier to pull both the tranny and the engine together? I would think it would be. If I'm right you disconnect the shift linkage, drive shaft, tranny and engine mounts, and wiring harness. The engine in my Nova isn't wired to the car anymore. It was ransacked while at the wrecking yard.

What do you guys think?