Idler Arm Bearing Kit Installed

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

I thought someone had a couple pics, but I think it was lost with the change in provider a month ago or so. I bought 2 kits, one for the 66 and one for the 67 and snapped a couple pics and wrote up a couple sentences on what I did and what I found. Since I have another one to do, let me know with what I already have and what other pics and discriptions would be helpful and on the next one I'll take note...

(Bare with my site, I am still in the process of writting the code to allow the window to resize to the picture being clicked on)

Click on the Web Address in my sign block or for the lazy...
http://www.bthomas1967chevy2wagon.com/Home/Brent/1967ChevyII/1967ChevyIISuspIdler.aspx

:)

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[the FLYER]

Brent, may i link this install procedure in the "Web-Link Library" ???

the write up and shots would possibly help many members... excellent job. :D

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

Sure thing.
That's what we are all here for, to help and learn !!!

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[the FLYER]

Thanks !!! :D :D :D

[Greg_R_63]

Wow, Brent, great job! Thanks for all your effort, it'll be a great reference for people.

[jaynova]

Thanks, I really needed that.

[Phil]

Great job Brent. One thing I would point out is to making sure the zerk grease fitting/ sleeve is installed in the arm where it is "accessible" to get the grease gun fitting to it after the final assembly. It could be installed anywherein the 360 degrees inside of the arm. You have shown a pic of it mounted in the arm.
As a note to others it makes a difference "where" the grease fitting/sleeve is finally installed in relation to other items close to it that may interfere with greasing the fittings. Do a trial mock up of the assembly and make sure the zerk grease fitting is accessible.
Heres what I wound up with.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/detail?.dir=b494&.dnm=fe7b.jpg

[chevynuts88]

Nice work Brent ! If you make the rest of your car as good as this we will all be drooling.

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

(Phil)
Yes, I agree about the zerks. I mentioned it in the text and in the red, but maybe I could add a picture directly related to the positioning. Thanks for the suggestion !!

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[Phil]

Yeah, Brent an installed on the car pic would add another thousand words to what the final install would look like.
A couple of years ago when I did mine I had many ask how to install the bearing and among the most missed was where they installed the zerk fitting. It did'nt occur to some as it did,nt make a difference, even though I had sent them "ALL" the step by step information.
Also I do agree with you the instructions sent by the supplier was not the best...Phil

[66RICH]

Great write up! Thank's for your effort's, this will help a
lot of people.
Rich

[CDAN 66]

Brent,nice work ! My only question to you or anyone else that's went this route is :I have an original idler arm straight and not curved like the pictured ones which I think are later design or power steering .Do the curved units offer more clearance for headers,starter,etc. (pros/cons) if any .Getting ready to convert mine but in no hurry. Thanks guys .:beer:

[John65ss]

I'm curious about the straight vs. curved as well.

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

Correct, the straight were non-power and the curved were power, but the curved can be used for both. I can't comment on header clearence, as I have stock exhaust (or did) on both the 66 and 67.

Maybe someone else can chime in as to Headers and the Curved/Straight designs!?

Ps. Let me know if you run into a pickle and need a curved one...;)

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[Coprod]

Thanks Brent, will be installing a kit tomorrow, let you know how it goes...I need pictures myself:eek:

Later,

Richard

[CDAN 66]

It looks like the curved one allows more room for the (PS Slave cylinder NNN Dec2005 page 27 ) still not sure about clearance for headers etc. I was wondering about the placement and clearance issue on the grease fittings.I was looking at my kit today and was wondering if a 45 or 90 degree fitting would move it enough to eliminate the need to rework pitman and idler for greasing ?The only problem on mine is the fitting has no provision for removal(mini ignition wrench)They appear to be pressed in? any comments on this issue.Not sure how the fitting is secured pressed or threaded ??????

[Coprod]

Brent,

I noticed in your directions that you stated the idler are had to be 1 of the 2 pictured.
I don't recall which they were numbered right off, but anyway I received the kit from CPP but its from Nova2only's kit......My 66 is stock and there is nothing mentioned in the kit about a specific idler arm.
Mine does not look like any pictured(similar), but I assume it will work, they sold it to me and the kit reads 62-67 nova...

Richard

[FunkyNova66]

Brent,

I noticed in your directions that you stated the idler are had to be 1 of the 2 pictured.
I don't recall which they were numbered right off, but anyway I received the kit from CPP but its from Nova2only's kit......My 66 is stock and there is nothing mentioned in the kit about a specific idler arm.
Mine does not look like any pictured(similar), but I assume it will work, they sold it to me and the kit reads 62-67 nova...

RichardRichard, if your idler arm is factory it will fit. Some of the aftermarket idler arms have different size holes for the bushings which would prevent the bearing kit from properly fitting. Brent, your write up is great!

[Coprod]

Ok, thanks...glad to hear it...I will be putting it together in the next day or so,,,If I can sneak away...

Be safe,

Richard

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

Correct, the kits that I have ordered from C2O (and from what I rememeber from others too.) are for the "Old Style" Idlers w/ 1 1/4 inch holes and not for the 1 1/8 inch holes, which are a "New Style". In the pic below, #3 and #4.(See Below)

#2 is one I bought from C2O, which if you bought a new idler like #2 and a Idler Arm Bearing kit, and a seller/company/dealer/etc., doesn't know... They just sold you a kit and an Idler that will not work together.

Just something to keep in mind !!!

I would just MIC the hole of your idler arm before ordering a kit. (JMO !!) :)

http://www.bthomas1967chevy2wagon.com/Home/Brent/1967ChevyII/Pictures/IdlerArmConv/TypesOfIdlerArmswTextLG.JPG

Thanks guys and I still need to add some more, like a picture of the nipples in relation to the assembly (thanks Phil), but for the most part, I give you an idea for what you will will be doing. (Which is pretty simple !!)

Keep the comments coming and I'll try to improve the walkthrough the best I can with pictures or text from the next build.

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[Coprod]

Brent, Kit installed, I really appreciate your post...It helped me greatly!

Thanks and Take care,

Richard

[Jaquess]

This may be a dumb question, but what's the easiest way to get the original bushings out? I am having a hard time getting them out.


Thanks

Eric

[Coprod]

A press! Had to crush one end in a vise so I could rest the piece flat on the press..

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

I second that motion, A Press !!!

A press has been the most useful tool in my garage in the last 5 years. From pressing Bushing IN and OUT, to Transmission Bushings to making small tweaks in exhaust pipes.

I had done the whole Vise, BIG hammer and heat methods, but smelling burnt rubber and beating the He.. out of parts are part of the past since the press.

Under 100 bucks through Harbor Frieght and I bought the 20 ton one, so you could get it cheaper for a 10 or 12 ton I'm sure.

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[Greg_R_63]

I second that motion, A Press !!!

A press has been the most useful tool in my garage in the last 5 years. From pressing Bushing IN and OUT, to Transmission Bushings to making small tweaks in exhaust pipes.

I had done the whole Vise, BIG hammer and heat methods, but smelling burnt rubber and beating the He.. out of parts are part of the past since the press.

Under 100 bucks through Harbor Frieght and I bought the 20 ton one, so you could get it cheaper for a 10 or 12 ton I'm sure.

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

Got a link? There are a few different kinds of presses on there and I'm not sure which one you mean. If it can be had for under a hundred, that would be nice to have around.

[Jaquess]

Thanks for the help. The Centerlink bushing came out fairly easy, but I spent 2 hours trying to get the Idler arm one out. Took it to a machine shop this morning, they had it out in 10 minutes. Lesson learned.

Eric

[vuss6t6]

Is there very much difference in steering with the bearing kit as compared to the bushing setup?

[Phil]

IMO yes, a very noticable difference. This is one of the adds to the Nova that most here consider a big value for the money spent...Phil

[Chevy Kid]

I second that. I replaced everything on my front end. Ball joints, bushings, tie rods, spring perches, Corvette steering gear, bigger sway bar, gas shocks, lockout kit. All of these things helped, but the car still wandered. The idler bushings were good and tight, but I put in the bearing kit anyway. What a difference! Made a good car great. It'll never handle like a new car, but it drives like a new Nova. Tire wear and alignment are still good after 20K miles.

Tim

[BTHOMAS67Wagon]

As far as the Press, under the tools used in my TH350 Rebuild, is a picture of the press I have.

Go to:
http://www.bthomas1967chevy2wagon.com/Home/Brent/1967ChevyII/1967ChevyIITransTools.aspx

(or for the lazy... :))
http://www.bthomas1967chevy2wagon.com/Home/Brent/1967ChevyII/Pictures/Transmission/ShopPress.JPG

To be honest, in my case, it made a little difference, but not something that I would say, "WOW". I had a brand new ilder and bushing on it already, but since I was ordering one for the 67 wagon, I thought I'd get an extra for the 66. Ever since the last shot at an alignment (number 3 of 3) last year, the car has not driven very good and I think I have replaced EVERYTHING except the Steering Box and have thought about putting one of the CCP kits on it, but lately have thought about selling her.

(damn the loss in time and money spent really sucks !!!)
:o

-Brent Thomas
Ohio

[littledeuce2]

BTHOMAS67WAGON, thanks for the good info. I ordered a kit locally last week. I'm going to use it so I can drive my car while I :beer:

[vuss6t6]

Sounds like a good deal, will make that a priority on mine.

[the FLYER]

a bump to save the info/post... ;)


maybe another stickey ??? ;)

[Blurr]

such a great write-up. it really helped me with my install.

did anyone need to add an extra spacer washer? i had to add one on the drag link end and on the idler bracket end.

[uk1966ss]

such a great write-up. it really helped me with my install.

did anyone need to add an extra spacer washer? i had to add one on the drag link end and on the idler bracket end.

i also found the spacer with the 3 shim washers still not thick enough so made a new spacer around 1/16" longer with 2 washers to be correct,

before i installed my bearing kit i thought i'd run a test,
with only the centre link and the 'wears in/wears out' idler attached to the chassis i used a fishing type hook ended spring balance to measure the pulling resistance, a bit notchy between 15-20lbs,
after the bearing kit installed only 2lbs !!
on the short drive i've been on it feels very light & positive,
on my car as the idler was very stiff it's been a great improvement.:D

[novacharlie]

One quick question. I just replaced my setup as you described. I also replaced my pittman arm. Before taking arm off I checked the gap between the arm and the bottom of the steering box. It checked apprx. 9/16". Is this right? How far should I tighten nut? I'm afraid the nut might back off since it has no cotter pin hole through it.


Thanks Chuck:confused:

[uk1966ss]

One quick question. I just replaced my setup as you described. I also replaced my pittman arm. Before taking arm off I checked the gap between the arm and the bottom of the steering box. It checked apprx. 9/16". Is this right? How far should I tighten nut? I'm afraid the nut might back off since it has no cotter pin hole through it.


Thanks Chuck:confused:

my pitman arm also measures about 9/16" gap,
there should be a split washer behind the large nut to prevent it working loose,but i also put locktight on the thread,(not the sort of part you want working loose) if i remember the torque on this nut was high at around 120lb? as stated in my 1966 chassis service manual.

[novacharlie]

uk1966ss"

Thanks a lot. Mine did'nt have the lock washer.

Chuck;)

[mychevyii20]

One way to get the old rubber bushing out is to hot tank it. Put it in the tank where they clean the engines. Couple hours and the rubber is gone and it is all nice and clean for paint. I couldn't get mine out, then the shop put it in the tank and no sweat.