Rear disc brake conversion

[rgsuperstrat]

I cannot find a disc conversion listed anywhere for the 4th gens. What application do they share with? Also, any success stories or misery stories regarding this swap? Thank you....!!!:cool: Is this in the wrong spot?

[the FLYER]

a popular conversion is the use of 78-82 Trans-Am disc backing plates, ya use the T/A calipers or Deville calipers. the rotors are T/A for the 5x4-3/4 pattern or the Deville for a 5x5 bolt pattern...

you can use the Seville backing plates but then ya need the Seville calipers as the bolt span is a tad wider for the Seville as compared to the T/A-Deville... rotors used are same T/A-Deville.

also

i believe a non disc axle's centering hub is .160 smaller in diameter than a disc axle... so a .080 sleeve will need to be pressed on centering hub for proper fit axle hub to rotor center hole...

or Classic Performance Products has a rear disc kit for 10-12 bolts... quite a few companies making rear disc kits... there's a few links found in the originality forum's sticky... "the Web-Link Library"



hope i helped...

[1971novaSS]

Yep exactly right. I got a 79 trans am rear end with a posi unit, with the better carrier to be able to run my 3:73's. But i had to swap everything into a different housing because the trans am housing is i believe 2-4 inches wider and will not fit under the nova. I got a 8.5 chevy housing out of another nova that worked. Had the seals redone, and bought new axels and had richmond gears 3:73's installed as well. Since my car is mini-tubbed i had to put the spring mounting brackes inward.

Oh, and i also bought new calipers and rotors for it. And had got new posi-clutches installed.

I should have just gone with a 9 inch. Oh well, i now have one stout street rear end with posi and now my car is all wheel disc brakes.

Need any more info let me know.

Rennskii

[Philip]

I am working on installing the rear disc's from an 82 Eldorado on my 75. It will be a little while before it is done. I'l post pictures and results then.

[rgsuperstrat]

So it seems the ones for the 8.5 rear will work as far as kits. I just noticed when you see the listings, the late novas are not mentioned, only the cars with coil rears are mentioned. Does this make a difference on brakes? Sorry for so many questions about the same thing, I just wish companies would list all applications, rather than assuming everybody already knows! Someday we will all be cool like that!

[the FLYER]

the plates'll bolt onto any GM differential. on my 55 chev i had ta undo the leaf perch on the right side and lift housing to get at one of the caliper bolts to change pads, had ta modify the e brake cable ta work properly, but the mods were very easy and no biggie.


the caliper has a return spring built in the actuator... the stock e brake cable has a small spring would around the cable, this spring ya carefully cut or grind and UN wind from the cable... it's no longer needed...

a few guys i heard, in regards to the caliper bolts rotated the plates slightly on the housing, marked and re drilled the mounting holes to get the caliper bolts away from any obstruction... no biggie on that either...


it's really a bolt on conversion...

back in the late '70's/early '80's HotRod magazine did a 3 issue article on rear disc conversions... "Stopping on a dime" i still have the mags... i installed the rear discs using the info they put in the mags... since then i've used the exact same conversion on 2 other cars... very good conversion... IMO

[jade76]

There's also a guy on ebay sells bolt-on kits for a little over $400 complete with rotors, calipers, pads, brackets and e-brake setup. I bought a set a while back, but haven't installed them yet. I will be doing that this weekend hopefully. I know they use 78-82 Camaro calipers and rotors per the instructions that came with them.

There's a set listed on ebay now, just do a search for 75 Nova and refine it in side bar for disc brakes and it should come up. He's based out of California with a business, and I believe the phone number is listed in the auction.

I've referred a couple other guys to him and they were satisfied with the setup. One of the guys just bought a set of brackets and I believe he told me he paid $90 for them, and went and found the calipers off a 78 or 79 Camaro and used them.

[Green Dragon]

I've referred a couple other guys to him and they were satisfied with the setup. One of the guys just bought a set of brackets and I believe he told me he paid $90 for them, and went and found the calipers off a 78 or 79 Camaro and used them.

Are these using FRONT calipers from Camaros ?

I've seen kits before ( popular with monster truck guys ) that use those and no e-brakes.

There was NOT a 78-9 camaro offered with disc brakes on the rear from GM, only Trans-Ams.

Possibly it uses 88-9 (3rd gen ) F-body rear calipers ? ( not as big, but readily available ) .

I;m using the Seville setup on my 76, but have not installed everything, so will keep posting when we get to it ( soon, I hope, but got sidetracked, lol )

~ AL

[jade76]

I could of been mistaken, I'll have to go back and make sure. I was pretty sure the instructions stated it used Camaro calipers and brake pads, I may have the years mixed up.

I started my conversion yesterday but haven't finished yet. I have to remove the axles to remove the drum brake backings to bolt up the caliper brackets.

I figured since I have to remove the axles, I might as well remove the carrier and pinion gear and install my posi unit while I have it broke down this far. I'll post pics when finished, hopefully by Monday since tomorrow's Fathers Day.

[ProNova]

I bought the Brackets off EBAY. Tells me to use the Metric Caliper for no E-brake ( anything GM Front I think 80 or 81 Up ) S-10s or Camaros work if you want E-brakes you use Cadilac rears
Also you use 79-81 rear Trans-Am Rotors for 4 3/4 Bolt pattern rear Caddy for 5 bolt pattern
Here is Link to the ones sold on EBAY
http://steeltechsolutions.com/REAR_DISC_PAGE_CODE.html
I too have everything to do my rears cept I have to deal with my Race Axles, The axle end Flange where the studs are is bigger than factory, Have to have them cut down, But will soon. Anybody else who has put this setup on would you show pics for us who haven't done ours yet Thanks

[jade76]

I finally installed mine yesterday and there wasn't nothing to it once I got the axles and drums removed. I had to stagger them to clear the shocks, so the right side is facing the back and left side facing forward. I haven't hooked up the e-brakes yet so I'm kind of wondering how that's going to work out with the stagger.

I'll take some pics tomorrow since it was a little late when I finished and didn't get a chance to take any.

Anybody know if 7.5 axles will work on 8.5 or are they different size? Figured I'd ask before I go tearing apart another rearend. My right axle is wore flat on one side where the inner bearing fits around it and some pretty serious pitting all along the shaft. I really don't want to reuse it. The left side looks great. I'm guessing the right axle was the drive side that took all the torque abuse to be worn down that way.

[the FLYER]

on one of my conversions, i needed to remove the "ball" at the end of the cable, shorten cable then have a sleeve slid over cable and brazed to get the correct length. it was no biggie. on a Camaro conversion, after unwinding the spring i found the cable was just fine as-is... maybe it'll be the same on yer Nova.

i'd recommend retaining the E-Brake. ya may never need it but ya never know. what would happen if ya DID need it and ya had none ???

could be yer own butt ya save... or someone elses.

[jade76]

badone07 wrote:
Doubt the 7.5 axles will work. Mainly due to the size and splines of the spider gears. Most 7.5's had 26 splines but some 88 and up had 28 splines. The 8.5 has 28 splines until changed to 30 in 88.

You most likely will have to have the axles' outter flange turned down to fit the rotor. I take a notch out of each bracket to make removing easy, without having to remove the axle. However, I retain all 4 mounting holes. Usually from the lower quarter of the bracket.

I was thinking 7.5 was different too, just wanted to see if anyone else has done it. I have another 8.5 I was going to redo, but I guess I'll have to take one of the axles out of it for now. It would be pretty stupid IMO to put a worn axle back in if I have a better one. I'd hate to rebuild this rearend just to have the axle break on me when I go to lay some rubber.

The brackets I bought are bolt-on and I bolted them behind the flange and are easy to get at with the wheels off and the rotors that came with my kit fit beautifully. I bolted the first bracket in front of the flange at first but caliper didn't fit over rotor properly so ended up bolting behind the flange and everything worked out.

JohnnyRotten wrote:

i'd recommend retaining the E-Brake. ya may never need it but ya never know. what would happen if ya DID need it and ya had none ???


Definitely keeping the e-brakes. It will predominently see street use and most states require e-brakes to be street legal. Mine are getting a little modification though. I removed the stock e-brake assembly and putting in a hand brake out of an 88 Camaro. I have buckets out of a early 80's Cavalier or something similar, and tucking it between the 4 spd console which is getting modified for my B&M Hammer Shifter, and driver seat, so it won't be seen unless engaged.

I'll post pics of it all later today.

[jade76]

Alright, got some pics for y'all!

RH: http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_1_5.jpg

LH: http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_1_6.jpg

That's my little helper, 2-1/2 years old now. Took him and my 1 year old daughter to drags at Super Chevy the other weekend and both love it, especially my daughter. Both had hands raised in air yelling "Alright, Go, Go", and "Nova, Nova, Nova!" I love it. Wish I could of got it on video.

And here's my console and hand-brake setup I'm getting ready to start once the rear is finished:

http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_1_9.jpg
http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_1_10.jpg
http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_1_11.jpg

[the FLYER]

that kid's gota dirty face !!! :rolleyes: :D :D get 'im a samwich and some cookies... he's deserved it :D :D :D


lookin' good !!!

[jade76]

JohnnyRotten wrote:
that kid's gota dirty face !!! get 'im a samwich and some cookies... he's deserved it

lookin' good !!!


Yeah, he love's to help daddy, and get dirty too. Some day I'll actually be able to teach him what I'm doing, once I learn myself (lol), and get him involved. He already goes around all the time saying "Daddy, vroom, vroom, Nova!" :D :D

Speaking of the mounting, is it normal to mount behind the flange as I did? And there's only 3 bolts holding my brackets rather than using all 4.

I've seen other brackets (http://steeltechsolutions.com/REAR_DISC_PAGE_CODE.html) here that ProNova posted earlier that are solid with hole cut out to fit over tube, but fit on outside of flange. Just wondering if those are from different models or what?

Mine mounted fine, and I even installed one of the axles with rotor on it to make sure it all seated properly and it did, so I'm not worried about that I guess, just curious.

[the FLYER]

well, ta be honest withya... i don't really care for aftermarket brackets. at least the ones i have. i bought a rear disc kit from a so called major distributor/manufacturer and they send ya these .010 shims ta use ta make the plates hang/install straight. i never had an issue with the stocker plates i used...as far as 3 bolts, i'd think it'd be ok, it's the same as the ones i have now (pretty much)

i bought a set of plates off e-bay that the guy sent me wrong (Seville instead of T/A) so i'm back ta square one on that... i was gonna swap my "kit" plates for the factory T/A plates... but looks like i'll be shimming the "kit" brackets instead.

i haven't really heard of anyone having issues with the plates, i'm just stating my own opinion and preferences...

oh by the way... ya know that with the e brakes in yer calipers ya HAVE to use the e brake ta keep the feed proper on yer pads. a big mistake made by some, not using e brake, brakes feed, wear, feed, wear... run outta feed... run outta brakes. ya gotsta run the e brake ta keep properly adjusted.



hope i helped in some way ;)

[jade76]

Yeah, I read your ebay thread about the wrong brake setup. That sucks!

That's kind of what I was figuring as far as the e-brakes. They don't come with the kit I bought, had to pay an extra $100 for them and there ain't nothing to them, kind of pi$$ed me off about that, but you live and learn.

As far as I can tell with the e-brakes on mine, they just slide onto a pin on the back side of the caliper, sit on a hex shaped fitting and are held in place by a washer and nut. They originally came with a couple large washers used as spacers bolted on to it, I guess for a non e-brake setup. From what I can tell since I can't find the instructions, don't remember even getting any for that matter, the e-brake bracket just pivots when I pull the cable and puts tension on the pads. That sound right?

I was even considering welding the brackets to the flange for added security, but that would suck if I ever wanted to remove them or had to replace the rearend, at least since they are just bolted on I can ensure I'll be able to reuse the brackets if need be. I may even take one off before I get too far and finish it so I can make a template to make my own, then all I'll need is the calipers and rotors for my next project if I go with rear discs.

[the FLYER]

That sound right?


yes, and the spring that fits the lever to the bracket... the one the cable passes through is all ya need on yer e brake cable. the stocker cable should have about a 1/4" wound spring maybe 6" long (?) around the cable... this is the spring ya remove... ya don't need it... because of the other spring. don't scar or damage the cable removing this spring ;)

tomorrow i'll get a shot of my set up for comparison in addition to the Seville plates.


just so ya don't feel reamed on what ya paid fer yer plates... the T/A (got Seville) plates cost me $175. total... fer a screwin'

[jade76]

just so ya don't feel reamed on what ya paid fer yer plates... the T/A (got Seville) plates cost me $175. total... fer a screwin'

Wow, I guess so! :eek: :eek:

There's actually two e-brake brackets for mine, and there isn't any other springs that came with it. One bracket has a hole through it to snap the cable in, which normally snapped into the drum plate, and the other which has a place to hook the cable ball? to actuate the brakes. Just by looking at the cable, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to shorten it to make it work, and the spring makes sense. I was wondering how it's supposed to disengage when I release them, unless the hex fitting has an internal spring or something.

I'm also going to get some more pics, maybe I'm missing something (the spring), or they're different setups. It's hard to say without seeing them.

Thanks!!!

[the FLYER]

try and get some pics of the back side (e brake side) of yer calipers... i'll get some of mine...


the spring i'm referring to is used to return the actuator lever after release... this is on the Deville-T/A style calipers though...

i do have an additional set of rear discs though that are the later model Camaro... but the rotors are smaller, ya havet a machine the OD of the axle flange down ta fit rotors (approx 1/4" total) and the calipers are smaller... i'll take a shot of these for ya also...


three different sets of rear discs... and i STILL want the T/A plates ;)

whaaaa !!!


hehehehe :D


i'll get ya lotsa shots tomorrow... we'll compare what everyone's got. might help others too ;)

[jade76]

Sounds good to me!!! :beer:

Past my bed time, I won't get up and get anything done today if I don't get off here! It's 3 AM, signing off.

[the FLYER]

Jade, here's some shots for ya...


aftermarket W/11" rotors and T/A-Deville calipers

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/aftermarket2.jpg

Late model Camaro-Seville style...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/latecamaro1.jpg


and '80's style Seville plates... which are interchangable with the T/A style rotors but require the wider span calipers.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/seville1.jpg

[jade76]

That first shot pretty much looks like the one's I got, didn't come with the spring though. Paid enough, I should've got those. What is that a 6" spring and about 1/2" diameter?

http://www.gen4novas.com/gallery2/pictures/Ad_48_1.jpg

Had to take it off. I think my caliper is messed up or something. the piston came out about an inch when I went to put the brackets on and I can't get it to go back in, even tried a c-clamp since that's all I have at the moment, but I didn't want to overdo it, figured if I tried to force it too hard I would definitley mess something up since I don't know the internal of these really consist of other than the large spring I can see through the brake line hole.

Oh, found the GM part # they give for return springs: GM18005582 or a #68 Spring from Ace Hardware as the site explains. The calipers are 85 Seville with 80 Trans Am rotors.

[the FLYER]

the pistons on the rear don't push in... they rotate. if ya press on 'em too much you can ruin the actuator screw. ya need a spanner wrench for the caliper pistons, costs about 5 bucks at yer local parts house...

[jade76]

Cool! I was kind of thinking that too, but wasn't sure. I tried turning it by hand, but obviously that don't work. I guess I'll be going to get the spanner wrench. At least I don't have to buy a new caliper. Whew! :)

[the FLYER]

here's an update on my rear disc conversion... in regards to my 64 fitment.

i'm using the CPP rear disc kit. it locates both calipers rearward on the rotors... with this set up you cannot use the stocker e brake cable... the right side is cool, but the left side is just about an INCH short... it installs BUT if there's movement of the differential, in my opinion, i think the cable would be stretched beyond the clips strength and it'd pull out of the frame bracket.


my original cables had been idiotcut by previous owner... i had ordered a complete e cable assy from a reputable restoration house PRIOR to me ordering the rear discs... the CPP rear disc KIT comes with a new cable... guess what ??? they provide it for a reason... YA NEED IT !!!! ;)


HA !!!


now what the heck am i gonna do with an extra cable ??? Crap !!! :rolleyes: oh well... my set up's installed... no testing yet, so there's nothing confirmed on quality of the set up.

yet ;) i have faith :D

[Philip]

Here is a pic of the tool I have for rotating the piston back in. Each side has a different lug configeration. Some GM pistons do not rotate back in, they have to be rocked from side to side to retract.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/64elcamino/rearpiston.jpg

Here are a couiple of shots of the mock up on the rear disc's I'll be using. 10.5" rotors from an 82 Eldorado. Both E brake cables run up the drivers side and tie together forming a loop that the primary cable can attach to eliminationg the intermediate cables that were used with the rear drums. Now that i have everything ready to go it is time for bead blasting the backing plates and a nice coat of paint. I haven't decided yet if I am going to rebuild the calipers or buy rebuilt units.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/64elcamino/reardisc2.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/64elcamino/reardisc5s.jpg

[the FLYER]

Philip, just fer giggles, when i was checking out the possibility of the Seville plates. the calipers W/cores were only 50 each 'round my area... but the core charges were 160 for the pair... to pricey with no cores.

if it were me, i'd buy exchange calipers and get the lifetime guarantee ;)


you wear 'em out ???

BANG !!!

they shoot ya and it's the end of the lifetime ;)

[Philip]

you wear 'em out ???

BANG !!!

they shoot ya and it's the end of the lifetime ;)
So that is how it works :eek:
These are the small calipers from the downsized Eldorado. It is a FWD car, the front and rear calipers and rotors are the same size.

[the FLYER]

and ???


only reason i mentioned it... is you HAVE cores/calipers... so it'll cost lots less ta exchange 'em ;)



"Hi" ta Mary ;)

[Philip]

Check out this approach to an e brake. This is from one of the guys at the Chevelle site. This is the link to his site (http://www.einstyn.com/).

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j199/64elcamino/driveshaftbrake.jpg

[the FLYER]

when i did my discs on my 55 in 79, i was gonna use fronts on rear and do something similar, but back then the stuff wasn't as readily available as today... actually a rear disc kit has come down big time through the years...


i'll check the link, Thanks ;)

[jade76]

Finally got everything set up, but had problems with the e-brakes. They seem to be working backwards and it doesn't matter which side I put the caliper on, or if I try to swap the brackets. With the release lever fully pushed back by the spring, the piston clamps down on the pad and locks the rotor. Something can't be right about this. So, for now I'm leaving them off and I'm going to bring it to a brake shop and let them set it up.

Also had one of the piston pop out on me. Fortunately it's was an easy fix after I removed the rubber boot to replace the piston and spring. Oh, and for the return spring I bought a #68 Spring at Ace Hardware as suggested by my instructions since nobody carries the GM spring, Part # 180055822.

E-Brake Bracket LH GM-18005312, RH GM-18005311
E-Brake Lever LH 18003044, RH 18003045



Here's a link for a set of Seville calipers with e-brake brackets and return springs for $75 + shipping. Wish I would have found this before I bought my setup, could've saved at least $200 what I paid for mine.

http://www.selectcore.com/BrakeCores.html

[the FLYER]

i missed yer post... i hope ya get the issue rectified soon. ya don't need brake malfunctions... remember the shots i posted ??? yer not the only one with issues Tony

check out the angle of my bleeders on my CPP kit... i figger i'll remove caliper bolts and swing up the caliper. block the pads open with a block close to the same thickness of rotors and open bleeders.

i don't think it's a biggie, but it is a bleeding inconvienience...

check closely the shot... there's still caliper reservoir above the bleeder...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/imag0003.jpg

what i see is this... with the T/A disc set up, on the passenger side, look again at the photo of my CPP kit. see the lower caliper bolt ??? it's very accessable. this means when ya wanna do a brake job ya just loosen the bolt and POW yer done. on the T/A set up, the rotation of the disc backing plate puts that lower bolt directly behind the leaf spring and ya have ta undo the U-Bolts (or T-bolts) and raise differential off spring to loosen caliper bolt. a good design chang in my opinion, although it Does present bleeding issues. but as i said, the bleeding probs can be gotten around...

i have an adapter issue for the rear center braided hose also... i'm hoping my E-Mail helps get it corrected... i just found the issue with it this afternoon and sent CPP a message.


we'll see how it goes.


are both yer calipers when lever is all the way back gripping the rotor ??? if so it sounds like the pistons are still too far out, try rotating them back in, leave loose as far as fitment on rotor(installing caliper bolts of course). do not actuate lever, step on the brake pedal and let the piston push out. now adjust your cable. once cable slack has been removed... actuate yer E-Brake.


lemme know how yer situation is... whether you do it or have it done, find out what ya can as to the reasons for the trouble... might help someone down the road.


best of luck to us all ;)



JohnnyDiscoBrakes :D

[jade76]

Well, I had one that the piston was all the way in, the one I had to put back together, and it was fine as long as I left the e-brake lever alone in the full forward position without spring and cable attached. If I moved the lever back to the full release position, it would actuate it, and release again when I pull the lever forward. My thoughts are that this is backwards, I would have to activate the e-brake to release the e-brake and vice-versa.

For now, I'm going to put the drums back on this car since it's ready to drive, and my patience is wearing thin with the rear discs. lol

I'm not sure if I have the wrong calipers or what. I know my right side is setup like the one in your picture, but the left side has the fluid line coming in the top side and e-brake lever is on the back.

I'll put the discs on one of the other 4th Gens I have when I have a little more patience and money to have them looked at.

Thanks for the help, and I'll keep posted what I can find out.

[the FLYER]

well i sent an E-Mail to CPP about my issues... i ended up calling them on the phone.

nice guys ta talk to, always seem very anxious to help... that's how it should be, right ??? anyways, seems i was sent the wrong rear caliper braided hoses with my disc kit.

the hoses are a "banjo" on one end, 1/4 tube on the other, the steel lines they sent are 3/16 tube. the factory block is 1/4... so not knowing the hoses were wrong, i bought a couple 1/4 lines, bent to fit and installed the lines to my factory block... now as i'm ready for the rear Center hose, i ordered it... it came with a new block, but it's 3/16... the 1/4 lines are now wrong again...

all's that is needed really is a different adapter fitting for the hose... a -3AN male to 3/8-24 male would do it... but CPP doesn't have one :(

so i checked Summitt, Jegs etc and found the fitting. i need ONE fitting... well ya gotta buy 2 ta get 1. 10 bucks for the fittings, 10 bucks ta ship. $20 bucks for 1 $4 dollar fitting. i called a local speed shop and no luck on the fitting. not in stock :(

i called CPP back and explained what was up and they're sending me out the correct hoses for the kit. so i guess i have ta get the 3/16 lines and rebend the lines, replace the hoses and see how it goes.

so i'm thinking my brake situation is cleared up (or will be when i get the correct braided hoses) the guys at CPP, i'm glad to say were very helpfull and presented to me the thoughts of HELPING and not arguing or anything like that. i've read lotsa posts regarding CPP and their products, i've actually bought from them quite a few times... just thought i'd pass on the thoughts... yes, things go wrong at times, mistakes do happen... but it seems the guys at CPP (Classic Performance Products) stand behind their products and stand side by side with their customers.

Thanks Jeff & John at CPP. i appreciate the assistance and look forward ta getting some work done.

[jade76]

Well, needless to say, I got the drums put back on, rearend together and got to take my baby for a test drive today for the first time in 2-1/2 years.

Man did it feel good! No noise coming from rearend, that I could tell over the exhaust anyways, so everything seems to be fine. What a difference the 3.42 makes over the 2.73. Can't wait to get her broke in so I can shread some rubber and see what see's really made of.

Guess I'll try the rear discs again on one of the other 4th Gens I'm going to start on soon. At least I have one running now I can enjoy while the other's are under construction.

JohnnyRotten well i sent an E-Mail to CPP about my issues... i ended up calling them on the phone.

nice guys ta talk to, always seem very anxious to help... that's how it should be, right ??? anyways, seems i was sent the wrong rear caliper braided hoses with my disc kit.


Glad you got the service you needed and everything presumably straightened out. I have 3/16" lines on mine so I guess that's what it needs as you stated. I'll probably do the brakes first on the next project since it already has a running engine, so it may not be that long before I post back on my results with it. I can have a little more patience with it since the one's pretty much complete minus some primer and paint and a few little tidbits.

Thanks for all your help with the discs so far!

[the FLYER]

Tony, i'm not the smartest at this stuff... i'm learnin' too.


is it possible you had the wrong master on your 4 wheel disc set up ???


i added a few links at the Web-Link Library... we lost a few links that concerned brakes, so i went of a search for new ones.


maybe there's something in there ta help

[jade76]

Not sure, but anything's possible. I used the original setup with exception of the rear disc kit.

[the FLYER]

check the links on the last post of the Link-Library ;)

i saw one in particular that made me think of you...

[jade76]

Ok, I read the instructions from Steeltechsolutions again, that's where I got my kit from, and I missed something in there before that may be part of the problem.

One, it says for staggered calipers, such as on my setup to use 2 right or left calipers to keep the bleeder fitting at top. Well, I ordered my setup for a 76 Nova and got a right and left caliper. If they know that 2 right or lefts are needed to make it work properly, shouldn't that have been what I got with the kit? Now I have to spend another $75 for a set of calipers and e-brake setup just to get the correct setup? Second, I guess I need to flip the e-brake lever over to face forward position on one side.

Supposedly my master cylinder should work as it is since it was originally drum setup, but I'll have to do a test to make sure I got the right pressure.

I'll check some of those other links you posted too, maybe they'll have some more useful info. that Steeltech doesn't offer.

[WarChilde]

I have the '79 T/A differential in my '78 X-Body, only thing not working on it is the E-Brake. Yeah, the cable is too long, I forget how much longer it is. Other than manufacturing my own, is there another cable I can find that will be a bolt-on?

[the FLYER]

will the cable "casing" fit OK and just the cable is too long ??? or is the casing AND cable too long ???

the cable itself can be shortened... i dunno about the casing itself being shortened.


if ya look at the end of the cable there's a cable stop at the end of it (if ya wanna call it a cable stop) the cable can be cut to the right length and a new stop can be made, slide it over and have it brazed. i had this done years and years ago on a 55 Chevy that i used the same diff in that you're using in your Nova. my Boss at the machine shop where i worked brazed the end on it for me...


there's a link in the Web-Link Library which is located in the Originalty forum that has a link for "Inline Tube" i saw they had a listing for E-Brake cables... might give that a peek... maybe that's another option...


if needed, a link to the Library can be found in my signature area at the bottom of this post :D

hope i helped.

[WarChilde]

Roger that, just the cable is too long. I'll take a peek at the link you mentioned.

[the FLYER]

remove yer cable after measuring right length and use a cutoff wheel to shorten cable, a 1/4-20 bolt with a hole drilled in it lengthwise will slide on, braze it up... a muffler shop/welding shop could do it... prolly a fraction of the cost of a new cable ;)

just a thought... best of luck to ya :D