HD Front Sump parts

[Paul Wright]

I put a request asking for spare discarded Chevy II oil system parts on the Parts wanted section.

I'm going to prototype an improved version of the Durango Deuce oil system that addresses some of the problems with the stock front sump system.

The pan and pickup would fit a 4 bolt main block and have a 8740 heat treated, Front sump specific 5.3" steel sleeved drive shaft, the pump would be modified for improved flow and pressure. The press -in plugs would be replaced with threaded plugs.

I guess I need to see how many people would be interested in what so I can see if it makes sense to mass produce the parts.

I won't have an idea of pricing until I see if there is a big enough market.
Some parts require tooling that has to be amortized over the volume of parts built.
Obviously business 101 says the piece cost will drop as the quantity goes up.

[John65ss]

Paul... A suggestion:

If you could make a pick-up tube that will work with the wide main caps on a 2-bolt 400 block (a'la 509 casting), it may be more versitile. I am thinking of something that can be used on 4-bolt and 2-bolt blocks that would attach to a main cap stud.

If you go this route, I'll take a tube (depending on the final design).

[Paul Wright]

Maybe a universal or adjustable design? I'll have to take a look at that.

[Nova67ss]

I´m intresded and so will more swede nova owners bee

Thiss would bee a much pricier way to go with a stock front end, than go new front end just to get the rear sump..

and this is a lithle charm with the nova.... it IS a different Chevy.. :D

[Nova63]

Paul,
I will also be interested in those parts.
And like Anders claimed I bet there are more Swedes than us two that will buy parts from you.
Matt

[Cool II]

Pix are good...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2479456318&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1

[Paul Wright]

That rusty pan is up to $65. What's a stock front sump pan worth anyway?
What's a repro going for?

Thanks to Wogs64SS I have a drive shaft and oil pump. Just need a pickup tube and oil pan to measure and modify.

[Ricks67]

paul i will give you a oe front sump pan and pick up tubebut i would want a good deal on the kit i am using a 92 one piece seal block and will have to buy a pan and pump for my new engine. Chevy 2 only has a kit but with std pump, i have a pump rod also and a pump but not sure if the block is the right one for the car that the pump came off of. let me know if I can help you out...
my email is chvy2nova@aol.com thanks Richard

[Paul Wright]

It doesn't look like the one piece seal pans are going to be real popular.
Chevy II only already has some pans available but I don't know how good they are for oil control. I was surprised at how much a stock pan, pump, drive and pickup is from C2O...about $230 for everything.
There's an "E-bay" pan out there but again don't know how good it is. Cheap and good don't always co-exist.
Aviaid can make you a custom pan but you need to provide them with a core. I think that was about $350 not including the pan core. If you provided a new core it would exceed $500. I think the complete DD oil system was around $600 for everything and the core was "free".

Cost for a real good oil system is relatively high but still cheaper than a blown engine.

The real trick is going to make improvements and get the cost down.

Stay tuned.

[novamike]

I'll will be building a new motor this summer.Let me know about the develepment of this system.I would like to be one of your first customers.
Thanks

[Paul Wright]

Your sig reminded me about needing to fit 400 blocks as well. The 400 has a wider spacing of the main cap bolts and the oil drive has to fit.

Here's a picture that shows some of the problems with the front sump pump.
The pressed in plugs
The rod bolt clearance (this one is a 3.25" stroke)
The long pickup tube and mounting.(not shown)

[62Coupe]

Paul I just picked up a 509 casting 400(2 bolt) and would like to use the front sump with kickouts and baffles. If you need me to take measurements or pics of anything to help I'd be more then happy to. If it makes a difference I'll be using a 350 crank and 4.3L V-8 rods, if I can find them.
Jimi

Paul I don't know if you've looked at Chevy II only or classic industries lately but it seems both have front sump oil pans with increased capacity(6 & 7 quarts). part #s are 13004 13005(c2o) and N13004 N13005(ci). I'd rather get one from you because you would put some engineering into it, and baffles. I just wanted to let you and everyone else know what was out there.

[Paul Wright]

I have a couple of 400 blocks (both 2 and 4 bolt) plus few small and medium journal 2 piece seal blocks. I don't plan on making a 1 pc seal pan at this time.
All I need is a stock Chevy II pan core and pickup tube for design reference. Wogs64SS already sent me a pump and drive shaft (thanks!)

What I plan to make should be better than anything currently on the market.
The custom Aviaid pan we used on the Durango Deuce wasn't bad but there were some reports of oil pressure drops on real hard cornering.

I expect if the new pan can handle the La Carrera it can handle any G's a street strip car would throw at it.

The one caveat would be if it's a real quick 1/4 mile car, the rear sump design would be preferred.

[Chris-NH]

Paul,

I'll send you a pan and a pickup. I bought one used here a year or so ago, and traded a windshield wiper pump for the pickup tube. I was holding off thinking I was gonna pick up a 327 soon and get going on putting the car together, but that's not gonna happen. The stuff has been sitting and will continue to sit until my boys are old enough to help me in the garage. I'm looking at a few years before that happens. I'd rather see it go to good use. I'll pick up another one when the time comes. Or I'll save my pennies for your kit.

Send me a PM or an email with a ship to address and I'll try to get it out to you next week sometime.

Chris-NH

[Paul Wright]

Thanks Chris! I sent you a PM with my address. I owe you and Wogs64ss a favor!

[Chris-NH]

No problem Paul.

I got your message, but I can't remember if I sent you one back. I have the pan and pickup with me today, and I'll ship it out to you as soon as I can. I've got to go hunt around for a box...

I never responded to the poll, which I suppose I should do, but I am interested in a kit. Someday...

I'll let you know when I send it out.

Chris-NH

[Tom Griffin]

Paul
It does not look like there are a lot of takers but I would be intrested in a complete setup for my 383.
Tg

[Paul Wright]

I received the stock pan and pick up from Chris-NH yesterday. Thanks Chris. (Let me know shipping charges and I'll re-imburse you.)

Now I can start building the prototype. Production may be an issue because of the high cost of new pan cores. I may look at using cheaper stock rear sump pans just for the rails and everything else is fabbed....

I'll post pictures of the progress here.

[Cool II]

PM me when the drive shafts are ready. I have your relief spring from GM ready to go in. The welsh plug should be tapped and fitted?
Also, you will need to include very cool Wright Stuff decals.

.....Put the Wright Stuff in your bottom end.

[Nova67ss]

Paul.
I´ve taken this post to the swedish nova forum. to let the swedish nova folks know about your effords, to keep us Hp starving croud with means to rev our engines and achive more ponies under our hoods. :D

[Paul Wright]

Here's a 3D rendering of the new pump shaft. It's just the shaft without the collar. The necked down portion is for clearance with 400 main caps which are slightly wider. Next step is to have a few protoypes made and checked on various blocks (small journal, 350 journal and 400) for fit and function. The Chevy II pump is very compact so the collar spacing is critical. Stay tuned.

Here it is with the collar.

[John65ss]

Excellent! If the price ends up being affordable, count me in for one of those, and a Pick-up tube (assuming the tub works with 400 2-bolt blocks).

[Paul Wright]

Excellent! If the price ends up being affordable, count me in for one of those, and a Pick-up tube (assuming the tub works with 400 2-bolt blocks).


What's the definition of affordable? With less than 100 people interested, "Chinese cheap" is going to be a real magic trick. When getting quotes to have a limited production run done the first question a machine shop will ask is "how many do you want?" Per Piece price is much cheaper if you have 1,000 made and more expensive if you only have 100 made. I'm guessing it's probably around $20 for the shafts. Yes, that's more expensive then the mass produced "normal" shafts, but they make thousands at a time.

Rather than "cost reduce" the materials and workmanship, the shafts will be high quality. The material will be 8740 and it will be heat treated, black oxide finish after machining. There are multiple setups. Besides the lathe operation, it has two ends to mill and the roll pin hole to drill. At $60 or more per hour for a job shop the labor costs add up.

I'm using the survey above to track how many the Nova board want's.
I can't risk a lot of my own money on this, so for now I plan on only making 100. First dibs go to those on the list. When they are gone, they are gone.

[John65ss]

Understandable. I would not expect you to sell the part for the same price as the melling standard shaft produced by the 1000's. I just don't want to spend $50 for a driveshaft that is made from $1 of material and a bit of time in the lathe. I assume you will be contracting these to a job shop, and your time is worth something too, so as long as prices are fair, count me in. :)

[BBPanel]

Wondering what the status of these parts might be. I'd be interested in the shaft and probably the other parts as well. -Bob

[Paul Wright]

I'm hoping to get the first pre-production prototype of the shaft next week.
If it fit's, I'm going to kick off 100. I won't have a price until I get the final quotes from the machine shop and heat treater.

[Cool II]

The timing is everything. 327 comes out this fall for 'dusting and cleaning'. Your new products will be welcome. Thank you for taking time of your life to enhance the hot rodding spirit in all of us.

[Nova67ss]

Paul I hope I´m on the 100 list.. :)

[Nova63]

I also hope im on the 100 list
Matt

[Cool II]

How is it going?

[patman]

Ya...I'd be interested in a HD oil pump shaft for my 406... Any idea on $$ for this stuff yet?

[Paul Wright]

Update 12/15/04

I called the machine shop again and they finally admitted they wouldn't be able to even start on it until after the first of the year.
I guess that's good news for the economy if machine shops are getting busy, but bad news for the shaft project. I wish they had told me that up front.

I'm going to try and find another shop but it's been harder than I thought to find someone to do a quality job for a reasonable fee. It's an easy job for a CNC lathe just too low of a volume to make it worth programming charges.
I may change the material to "pre-heat treat" 4340 to eliminate some cost and post heat treat hassles. The target price is no more than $20 each.

As the saying goes Fast,Good or Cheap...pick any two. Stay tuned.

[Nova67ss]

I´ll wait, want good parts. and I´ve leard to have patience.. :)

[John65ss]

4340HT? Sheesh... we're making these things bullet proof! ;)

[grooves12]

Hey Paul,

Have you given up the idea for the rest of the parts, or is the shaft just the first step?? I would be interested in a whole kit.

[Nova67ss]

Paul if theres still to bee a whole kit IM still intresded, even though I solve my problems along the way my way. :D

I was wery impressed by the pan and work you had done to gerries engine and I do want the kit for bouth "carrera" and strip driving..

So hows things going?

[Cool II]

Are any of these parts available yet?

[Paul Wright]

If the demand is sufficient, I'll do a production run. I need at least 500 orders and we aren't there yet. Like the T-shirts there's a significant investment in tooling.

[69NovaSS]

If the demand is sufficient, I'll do a production run. I need at least 500 orders and we aren't there yet. Like the T-shirts there's a significant investment in tooling.
Paul, I tried to send this via Pm but your box is full so I thought I would post this here:)

I'm sure your not interested but I was wondering if it might be possible to get a publication like NNN interested in this kit so that they might run a story on it. I was thinking getting 500 people involved from the site might be tough but it might not be hard to do if there was a story published about the kit and that you were looking to see how many people would be interested in the kit before preceeding...I dunno just a thought...like I said i'm sure your not wanting to do anything like that....:o

[novaboy009]

You could also contact Summit Racing or other suppliers and see if they're interested in stocking your kits....

Kev

[DriveWFO]

You could also contact Summit Racing or other suppliers and see if they're interested in stocking your kits....

Kev

They'd make Paul sell his kit under the Summit brand for $19.95 :eek:

[Paul Wright]

The problem is a "Catch 22". I have CAD drawings, but I'd need to have real parts plus dyno/real world testing to do a convincing article and I can't do that without a significant investment. If they don't sell, I'm stuck with 500+ of each part. Front sump is unique to the ChevyII and a lot of people just convert to an aftermarket clip so they can use the cheaper and more common rear sump. The business case isn't there right now.

[Paul Wright]

OK, for those that might be interested in going with modified stock parts rather than the ground up, Hi tech design, I can do that now. Basically this is the same set up as the Durango Duece used in 2002. I also have a few HD (brake rotor material) castings for rear sumps.
I've set up a separate email address for inquiries. oilpumps@sbcglobal.net

Here's the link to my posting in services available (http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=490020#post490020)
If the idea takes off then I might invest in tooling to make the High Tech design.

[Nova67ss]

U got a mail from me, Stil interested of the whole package..

a Q
How manny to todays date is "registred" for the deal or parts?

Yes I know it aint 500 (produktion not started) but is there 300 or less?more?

[Paul Wright]

Enders, the poll shows only 44 votes over several years! Not exactly a pent up demand. I expect I'll get orders for about a dozen pumps and shafts. We'll see.

[Scooter]

Email sent!

[Nova67ss]

Oh man ?!? That was´nt manya people on this deal, I mean the durango adventure spoke whell about the system, If it worked in that kind of racing it would be more than "whats needed" for a street driven nova :D

Its the oilpan with the baffels and trapdoors I realy would like to see, we´ve spoken about the pump (ive followed all your advice) and Ive done my own solution on windage tray and pumpshaft with steel sleev, ive also modifye the pickup to work with a 4b block, at the moment its just the pan thats still pure stock.

[Scooter]

Yea yea I want a pan too!

by the way, does the pump that i send have to be brand new? I bought one from someone on this site and he said it was never driven but it was installed and run. I guess only enough to break the motor in.

-Aaron

[Paul Wright]

Project Update:
First batch of shafts are ready to ship. It seems easier to do them at least 6 at a time because of the different set up operations required.
I ordered 12 brand new shafts today. Once these arrive I'll be able to have modified shafts in stock for faster turnaround. Members can get them outright or send their old one as "cores". I have some improved tooling coming and even bought a tool to acid etch serial numbers. It's such a low volume deal that it's hard to justify in investing in high volume production methods.
I'll only make 12 at a time so I don't get stuck with them.
That's why front sump pumps from Melling cost twice what rear sump pumps cost. They don't sell as many of them. I'm going to see how many I have to buy to get a deal. It could be several grand worth of pumps to get a price break.

[DriveWFO]

It could be several grand worth of pumps to get a price break.

A few more BLS 350 projects should cover that :p

I don't think I can afford anymore BLS jobs! ~Paul

[Paul Wright]

Ok, things are really happening on this project. I've found a source for new front sump pans and can have them built to DD specs. I've also got an agreement on the HD "brake rotor" rear sump pumps if I buy 10 per month and open up an account. They sent be a credit app and I have to consult an accountant and bank on how to set this up. I may have to file for a DBA. As a business case it isn't very good. That's why none of the big boys ever got involved.
This whole thing will be a disaster if I only do 50 and then it crash and burns.
Here's shaft serial number 0004

[patman]

Question for ya on the front sump pans... Is that based on a stock pan, or aftermarket?

Reason I ask: I just bought a stock pan and discovered that it hits the splayed main caps near the pan rails. I have to either seriously modify the pan, or go with an aftermarket one that will clear...so if you are going to base yours on an aftermarket pan...that might work for me.

[Scooter]

Have you considered putting some of your products on ebay? I think you'll have to get some exposure somewhere besides here on Steves. Maybe put an ad in the for sale or services section of several popular forums where there may be a market for front sumps?

I also am wondering about clearance for the crank in a 383. I've hear it only requires a minor downward dent in the pan, but nothings ever that easy. And will the pickup tube clear?

I hope this turns out well for you Paul,I think it's great that you've stepped up to help out all the front sump users.

I will be sending out a pump and shaft maybe next week and will buy a pan if it will work with my 383 2-bolt setup.

-Aaron

[John65ss]

I would think that "3.75 stroke-friendly" parts would be a huge plus!

[Paul Wright]

I'm doing the shafts first to get a feel for production and business issues. Selling more means making more and I'm not working in a Chinese sweat shop....at least not yet.

The pan project is going to be VERY expense to tool up. My advice on High HP Chevy II's is to convert to an aftermarket clip and run conventional rear sump parts.

I'm aware of all the unique problems with adapting a pan to strokers and that's been an engineering nightmare to make one part that fit's all the configurations (small medium and large journals, splayed or straight, 1 or 2 pc seals, all the strokes, starters and headers.

The DD pan seems to appeal to Vintage Chevy II road racers with 327's. I've had three inquiries from overseas. I might make a limited run and call it quits.
The DD pan was pricey and difficult to setup. You shouldn't do it unless the rules require a stock clip.

[Paul Wright]

Here's a picture of the modified M73 front sump oil pump. This one is going to Paul Settle.
Some day I hope to be able to get laser cut covers made. Low Volume precludes that right now.

[Scooter]

Is that drive shaft pictured above a brand new one or a finished shaft made from someones regular shaft?

[Paul Wright]

Serial number 0004 was a shaft supplied by and going back to Paul Settle. I polished it in the lathe. The new shafts should be here today.They'll look the same.

Note: there wasn't enough demand to justify tooling the 8740 shaft listed in the poll.
These are production shafts with pinned steel sleeves. It's essentially the same as the one that went in the Durango Deuce except the sleeve design. These have a register that locates on the pump shaft groove. You have to tap the shaft on with a brass hammer until it "snaps" in place.

[Wogs64SS]

Looks great Paul, can't wait to get them!! Paul, by the way, my origional pan that I'm going to use has some surface rust inside it. What do you suggest to remove it?

[grooves12]

What exactly did modifying the stock front sump entail?? Perhaps a DIY kit might make more sense.

[grooves12]

What exactly did modifying the stock front sump entail?? Perhaps a DIY kit might make more sense.

[Paul Wright]

Hey, the parts are readily available to anyone.
However, you'd also need:
Granite Surface plate for wet sanding pump surfaces
Solvent tank for wet sanding
Feeler gauges
Several sheets of wet or dry 360 paper
Precision Prazi Lathe/Milling machine

Fixtures for holding shaft and locating sleeve shaft pin hole on center, perpendicular and in the correct position. The front sump pump is shorter and tighter to the block than the normal pump. Sleeve fit is critical.
I scrapped more than a few test shafts getting this perfected so the pinned sleeve spins true to the shaft and doesn't rub on the block.

I'm working on the issue of stroker clearance and trying to figure a way to consistantly mill adequate relief for big stroker cranks without weakening the pump.

So far only 4 people out of 6,000 members have ordered pumps so the market doesn't seem to justify the trouble.

The best solution to the front sump headaches is to install an aftermarket front sub frame and then use conventional, commercially available rear sump components.

[Nova67ss]

To all that going to use the orginal Nova oilpump on a 350 engine (3,48" crank) have to notch the pump for clearence to nr#7 rod bolt(think it was 7) , I´ve been forced to do so and a couple of nova friends over here that converted a 350 down in the early Nova´s..

Also others here on the forum have had the same experience,

someting to consider when doing the pumps Paul?

with a 3,75" cranc this is going to be a real issue I think..

I also did a lithle "machining" in the block to get the free space the steel sleve shaft I did had to have to spin free..

[Paul Wright]

Anders, brings up some points to consider. If the stock front sump pump clears the counterweights but not the rod bolts on a 3.48" stroke then clearly a 3.75" stroke is going to be a problem. I had designed a compact Geroter pump that would clear but tooling costs kill a project that might sell 50 units.
The current plan is machining the housing to try and clear strokers. I'm going to experiment with various cutter profiles so I can do it precisely on the mill rather than try and grind the relief by hand and not break through. There's a press in plug that probably needs to be tapped for a screw in plug right in the area in question. This mod will probably go into the next revision.

As far as the sleeve hitting the block on Anders home made shaft. My version elminates that necessity, however there may need to be a revision for the 400 main cap. The pass through hole may have to be enlarged or the shaft diameter reduced for proper clearance with the front sump pump.

[Scooter]

Hmmm, so since I probably won't need my pump done for a few months (slow engine build progress) should I wait to send everything to you until you have everything squared away and I can have the full modifications for stroker clearance and whatever else done?

Or would you prefer that I send it now and you just keep it until all the mods are done. Perhaps you could use it in testing or something as a guinea pig.

-Aaron

P.S. Were the front sumps only designed for 283 and 327 engines? I was surprised to hear that there are pump to rod bolt issues with a stock 350 stroke, were the front sump pumps never actually put in 350s?

[Nova67ss]

The nova gen 1-2 was only offered from GM with 283 and 327 engines..

There have been said som dealer installed engines was bigger, but nobody knows how they solved the problems..

I was surprised myself when I found out about this rodbolt/oilpump interfearence, because I´ve read about all cool strokers in 1-2 gen novas all the time but never a word about this,

I once asked on this forum and several people here with 350 engines said " we dont know about this" one or 2 said YES they had the same issue.. so I guess lots of folks here just order a complete engine ready to run and just drops them in,, everybody that assembles them self had this discovered first time they turns the crank shortblock around..

[patman]

Just a weird idea here, but...

How about moving the pump to get the rod/crank clearance? A generic SBC shaft is a bit longer than the early Nova one. What would happen if you added a spacer of that thickness between the main cap and the pump? Using the generic SBC shaft and a spacer should yield the correct depth for the distributor. You'd need a longer pump bolt/stud, and the spacer would have to have that locating pin on it, but...should be doable.

The pickup would have to be modified to end up at the right depth in the sump, but as it's got that long horizontal run, that seems doable. Might even be able to get away with just altering the support strap for the pickup (which you pretty much have to do anyway unless you're running a stock early Nova block.)

Or does that put the pump down too far so it's running into the shallow part of the pan?

[Paul Wright]

The rear part of the front sump pan is "shrink wrapped" around the pump.
I have a mock up block and pan set up that I'm experimenting with solutions to this problem. The BEST solution was the expensive to produce, new gerotor pump.

The interim solution is making a fixture to clearance the pump on the mill for most popular combinations. It's not going to be easy. My fixture I use for rear sumps doesn't work because the front sump pump is shorter, oddly shaped plus the cutter (most likely a ball end style) will have to approach at an odd angle. I may try setting it up on the lathe and using an adjustable cutter with a radius to duplicate the crank/rod sweep.

I may have to destroy a pump to find the limits. I'm almost certain a 3.800" stroke is a "no go" and still have .100" min. thickness at the corner that's closest to the rods. Stay tuned. I have multiple projects and school going simultaneously so it's not going to happen overnight. Right now I'm working on a neat fixture with a roller guide for pressing in pickups to precise pan depths.

[patman]

The rear part of the front sump pan is "shrink wrapped" around the pump.

I was afraid of that. After I posted, I thought...so this exact same conversation was happening at GM in 1963, and if there was a way they didn't need to produce a different length oil pump driveshaft, they wouldn't have done it then.

[ERV JR]

Im not to sure on this idea due to the fact that i have a 3rd gen but two friends have 1st gens, and they built a rear sump pan,low profile pan, with a square sump and the other with a kick out,just the over all lenght was less on the sump to clear the steering, one is in a 65 with a 434 and the other is in a 66 with a 383, both cars being 10 sec cars. We build the pan for my old 68 to be above the crossmember rather than lower like the moroso, it wasnt bad, just some time on the sheet metal break,some tig welding with the rails bolted down,and the addition of trap doors. What i am saying is if i or my friends can build a nice one off and plate them , then why cant you start with an aftermarket maybe china pan thta has stroker clearenced rails and build a square or kick out rear sump for the older novas, to cut cost offer them in bare metal, or powder coated or plated at an extra cost, if you find a decent way then have a job shop do the sump in the brake, and then weld them

[Paul Wright]

That might happen....Some day. We've made all sorts of proposals but not enough responses to make it viable financially.

[Nova67ss]

two friends have 1st gens, and they built a rear sump pan,low profile pan, with a square sump and the other with a kick out,just the over all lenght was less on the sump to clear the steering, one is in a 65 with a 434 and the other is in a 66 with a 383, both cars being 10 sec cars. it wasnt bad, just some time on the sheet metal break,some tig welding with the rails bolted down,and the addition of trap doors. What i am saying is if i or my friends can build a nice one off and plate them , then why cant you start with an aftermarket maybe china pan thta has stroker clearenced rails and build a square or kick out rear sump for the older novas, to cut cost offer them in bare metal, or powder coated or plated at an extra cost, if you find a decent way then have a job shop do the sump in the brake, and then weld them

Ive already done the rute with a stock 350 pan that I modifyed to "rear sump style" on a 66, and why ever do the troubble when ex moroso builds all U need for this..

Im not allways take "the easy road" doing things and the fact is ... I like the 2 gen Novas and one of its charm IS front sump pans, and GM would´nt done this if they did´nt se same problems like I do,, clearence against Speedbumps, pot holes, rocks on bad roads, etc.. besides that even if U have a Nova block changing the oilfilter is a P,i,t,A even with a stock manifold and rear sump, with headers allmost impossible, and with a non nova block....

The challenge of this is to do the best of parts as GM allready build it. and the Durango deuce did run pan amerikan race with front pan system..

[Paul Wright]

Final Notice:
The front sump parts project is wrapping up. I built a few short shafts and have a new fixture for clearancing for 3.75" strokes
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2281132574_ed1cf53399.jpg?v=0
but the demand was too low to justify continuing the project or investing even more money into it.... and I have a new "adventure" brewing.

February 19th is the cutoff for orders. If want a front sump pump and you don't have a new M73 on the way to me, then forget about it. A few shafts are still available for $30 shipped.

Don't PM me with any questions. Details in services offered.

[Nova67ss]

Ok, Paul

I would take the time to say THANKS for your efford trying this and a personal THANKS for the help and discusion about oilpumps and bearing clearence we have had..

Good luck with the new projects and..

Best Regards, Anders.

[Paul Wright]

Here's the link to all the photo's (http://www.flickr.com/gp/20604042@N03/041VT8) taken during the project. Shows some of the problems and my solutions.

[Nova67ss]

Jeez THAT was an impressive panbuild and good work on pump.

Im realy sorry this project did´nt work out on order basis, lots of Nova gen1-2 could build good engine power and still be relifed from the steering link hazzle and oilpan choises..


REALY GOOD WORK Paul , Thanks for showing the pics..

Anders.

[Paul Wright]

I added photo's of the stock front sump pickup problems with standard large journal 2 bolt blocks and how it doesn't fit 4 bolt blocks. Bracket must be fabricated and a stud used on #3 main. The ChevyII Only "how to" picture shows a mangled bracket. That's not the way you want to do it.
I'll post more once I get ZNova's pickup finished.

[Nova67ss]

I have a 4b block and I did fabrikate the bracket to get it fastened

Looking forward to the pics to see how it should be solved..