Welding new frame rails

Just got a pair of S&W frame rails and would like to Know what is the best way to weld them onto the stock body? Old rails are removed. Plug weld? any pictures would help.

Ill email you tonight

Mac-

I'm curious to hear what you find out on this...How well do those rails line up with the stock floorpan?

Thanks-
Jeff

Which frame rail did you get? The universal one or the "direct fit" frame rails?

I bought the direct fit frame rails and sub connectors

** NOTE , you will not need to remove the factory rails until all the welding is done, they can be completey removed or just section were you add the tubs.

The only place of interferance is the trunk floor, when installing the new S&W frame rails inside of the factory rail position they would need to pass threw the bottom of the trunk floor.



The best way is to remove the entire recessed trunk floor , just cut around the top , when removed it will look like this.
http://i23.ebayimg.com/03/i/06/22/82/5d_1.JPG
(This is the part that can be purchased from many of the classic parts houses.)


It is easiest to do this first ( cut out the trunk floor) then weld in the new rails butted up against the old frame rails. ( at the front and against the rear panel at the back of the trunk) Next cut out a narrow section down the center of the removed trunk floor and weld it back together forming a new narrow " mini trunk floor". When reistalled you will have to weld in a flat peice on either side to compensate for the narrrowed trunk floor and it will look stock.

If you use ladder bars you will have to fabricate an upper shock mounts. If you use leaf springs I would suggest sliders in the rear to replace shackles. You may want to move the axle back an inch to give you more clearance athe front of the wheel well lip to help clear tall tires.

This is my 65 with leafs and sliders. With the rails welded just inboard of the factory rail 12" tires are no problem, It gives me about 16" between rails and the wheel well lip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v630/Novass301/novarear2_1.jpg

I've always wondered this as well, I guess it will basically be better to weld them solid. Or is it just overkill and plugging them like the factory sufficient? Which way did you go Mike? Thanks,

Jimmy

I "stiched welded" the rails. Short section about 1" long every 6 inches.

I also reinforced the factory frame rail aera before I welded in the new rails, A small plate along the rail and a plate above it

Nova SS-

Thanks for the input, I know it'll come in handy when I'm ready to tackle this...soon!

I've been thinking I would do just as you say "butt the new rails against the old", and then remove. The only problem (maybe I'm just overthinking this) is the old rails have a lip that is actually spot welded to the floor. Kind of like this...

__ __
l l
l___l

How did you handle that?

-Jeff

Thanks for all the info I'll let you know how it turns out

Where do you get S&W direct fit frame rails?

Where do you get S&W direct fit frame rails?

S&W makes them,I looked them up last week.

S&W makes them,I looked them up last week.

I was on their web site (I think) S&W Racing. And they had no listings in their frame rails section.:confused:

S&W Racing Catalog............. Frame Rails & Components........... Page 1.

This has probably been asked many times, but does the stock gas tank still fit?

Heres some pics of the CE rails.

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34363

I have CE rails and crossmember on my car. We modified the front a bit when we tied the subframe and they fit perfect. Weld a piece of plate to the rear body and weld the rail to the plate. I'm going to pick my car up next weekend and I'll post some pics. It came out really nice. I also put an S&W 8-point roll bar in. It fits really nice. Lines up just with the post. Can't see it from the side. And I have room to put in a headliner. Dave

I am also wondering about if you butt the new rail to the old how do you remove the old if the new is sitting on top of the flange of the old one?

Also, will the gas tank be an issue?

If you move them in more than 2-3 inches a side, the fuel tank will be an issue. I put a cell in mine. Dave

is it better to build the frame off or on the car??

We did mine in the car. Well, first we fit and tacked it all in, then dropped it down to finish weld it. I'll post a few pics later. Dave

Some petty good stuff here!Shouldn't we save this thread?
My 2 cents worth.
Mike

Does anyone have any pics of how they did this? I am going to get the TCI front IFS and TCI 4 link rear. Just wondering if anyone had moved their frame rails in and narrowed the TCI kit. Pics would be great.
Thank You

It will be a HUGE chore to narrow the TCI 4 link. The crossmember/driveshaft loop piece would be a pain. Narrowing it will also require moving the connection points for the four bars. I think the track bar length would need changing. And the upper shock crossmember would need narrowing too. Don't forget that the four link connections on the rear axle housing would need to be changed too (easy to do if your not using one of their pre-made 9" rears).

I am pretty sure I could let TCI know before I order it that I don't want it all welded together. That way I could narrow it and weld it how I need it. I agree with you that it would be a chore, but another 2 inches of clearance would be nice too.
I guess this would be almost the same as tubbing it, so I could look at how people did that. I was just wondering if anyone had done this.
I had seen some threads where people had to replace their frame rails because they rusted out, so I know it has been done.

Thanks for the input though. I do appreciate it.

If i run the CE frame rails right up againts the stock rails do I still need to cut up the trunk floor?