Tubular A Arms for stock frontend

Thought these were interesting, here's a link.
http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NovaSubFrame.htm

Very interesting.Has anyone used these?I dont know much about suspension but I do know my alignment sucks...and tires are getting expensive.

Rob

Hey thats a pretty neat idea! I have some blueprints I drew up for tubular upper and lowers but I havent had the time to get the fixture built and build any.

Where does the coil spring mount in that setup? In the OEM setup, it sits on top of the upper control arm. Those tubular upper arms don't appear to accomodate a coil spring. :confused:

Where does the coil spring mount in that setup? In the OEM setup, it sits on top of the upper control arm. Those tubular upper arms don't appear to accomodate a coil spring. :confused:

Its just a lower control arm kit.

Rex, I think those are lower A-arms. they allow adjustment by eliminating the strut rods (per article on the classic performance website)

Its just a lower control arm kit.
Doh! :o Makes sense now. It'd be nice if they showed a pic of it installed in a car too.

Is camber still adjusted by eccentrics though?? Seems like a lockout setup would be a better choice.

Looks like a nice setup. I've still got some of their parts on my wish list.

Doh! :o Makes sense now. It'd be nice if they showed a pic of it installed in a car too.

Is camber still adjusted by eccentrics though?? Seems like a lockout setup would be a better choice.

Looks like a nice setup. I've still got some of their parts on my wish list.

Yep. Looks like both front and rear of the lower control arm mounts are adjusted with eccentrics. Bad thing is thats a heck of a chunk of steel on the nose(1/4"). But for 350 bucks its pretty cool!

That's Cool! I'm glad there's other options out there for our Novas, instead of the complete clips things, which I have. Still cool.:cool:

i think that's a deal at that price:) i would add the coilover spring replacement kit with this kit. for less than a $1000,i think it would work great. oh-oh,maybe another project coming up:confused: what do you think?

Am I looking at this right? Is the front and rear of the control arm adjustable?

Dave
'67 HT

Am I looking at this right? Is the front and rear of the control arm adjustable?

Dave
'67 HT

The front and the rear are adjustable though a stock style eccentric. Or you could(which I would suggest doing) use a lock out kit on the front and rear.

Damn, now I have something. else to buy. Looks like a good kit to me. What is the weight diffrence between stock and this kit???

How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:

How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:I was wondering the same thing. Everyone said on my other thread Caster should only be adjusted through the strut rods. so......now what? No caster adjustment? I would like to know more about this set up.

Dave

One other question:
"A deluxe kit that comes complete with upper control arm bushings, upper ball joints, lower coil springs, and gas charged shocks is also available for $599."
Lower control arm springs?? Someone fill me in. I don't get it.:confused:

lowerING springs?

Looks like you go from one eccentric per side to two, judging by the eccentric plates I see. Not quite sure though, because there is also a slot to move the front bushing in or out.
Soooo... What's the gain here? I can see some stiffness benefits, but for $350 I could box the stock lower controll arms and add a cross-brace between the strut rod mounts and still have plenty left over.

How do you dial in caster with that arrangement? I assume that you adjust the front and rear eccentrics independently to move the lower ball joint fore and aft, but it seems to me that doing so may induce bind, unless those bushings are complient. :confused:

You are correct on your caster adjusting assumptions. As far as the bushings binding it is unlikely because of the very small range of adjustment on the eccentrics.

I have done many alignments on trucks and SUVs with this type of lower control arm adjusting arrangement, and alignment can be somewhat difficult because caster and camber need to be adjusted simultaniously.

You are correct on your caster adjusting assumptions. As far as the bushings binding it is unlikely because of the very small range of adjustment on the eccentrics.

I have done many alignments on trucks and SUVs with this type of lower control arm adjusting arrangement, and alignment can be somewhat difficult because caster and camber need to be adjusted simultaniously.

So, what do you think of it? Does it have an advantage over the stock setup? As was mentioned, I have a hard time seeing how it wouldn't be knocked out of alignment at the first bump, just like stock.

Bump to the top.

So, what do you think of it? Does it have an advantage over the stock setup? As was mentioned, I have a hard time seeing how it wouldn't be knocked out of alignment at the first bump, just like stock.

I think the main advantage of this setup would be that it prevents deflection of the lower control arm, offering a more solid feeling, as well as holding the 'dynamic' alignment while driving. As far as being knocked out of alignment, this setup hasnt been proven yet, so I dont know. I am tempted to buy one at that price, and if I did I would paint mark my eccentrics and keep an eye on any movement. The only negative thing I can see with this setup is the extra weight up front.

So far I lke the idea if this, but my one question is, hoy could this beany better than boxed lowe controll arms with a lockout kit and heim jointed strutrods? If done your self it would be much cheeper.

So far I lke the idea if this, but my one question is, hoy could this beany better than boxed lowe controll arms with a lockout kit and heim jointed strutrods? If done your self it would be much cheeper.

I dont see it as being much better- but who really knows yet? Hmmm...I might be the guenea pig on this one- Im REAL tempted to get this setup!

I really like the look of this, and am tempted to purchase, but still have reservations. One thought... where would my sway bar mount? One wish... are they going to make an upper a-arm, then mount the coil spring between the two arms? This would probably open up a whole new bundle of problems/concerns/ and ************.

Just thinking.

I really like the look of this, and am tempted to purchase, but still have reservations. One thought... where would my sway bar mount? One wish... are they going to make an upper a-arm, then mount the coil spring between the two arms? This would probably open up a whole new bundle of problems/concerns/ and ************.

Just thinking.
Those are good questions. I still need alot of convencing for me to buy it. But I'm also a cheep sceptic too.

I really like the look of this, and am tempted to purchase, but still have reservations. One thought... where would my sway bar mount? One wish... are they going to make an upper a-arm, then mount the coil spring between the two arms? This would probably open up a whole new bundle of problems/concerns/ and ************.

Just thinking.

Your swaybar should hook up no problem- that is if the holes in the control arms pictures are placed correctly.

I think you are wasting your time if you try to go further with moving the spring and shock mounting locations, etc.- so I doubt there will be too much else available from CPP for the stock front end. After all, a new front clip is a much better option anyhow, I figure I have $1000 tied into my stock front end already, and if I go to far I could have got a whole clip.

Ok, earlier this evening I talked with Lee of Lee and Sons Alignment in Fullerton CA, very near to Classic Performance. Lee apparently is an early Nova suspension expert, is friends with Rudy at Modern Performance, and does suspension work on several first gens a month. He has installed at least one of these kits (and probably more, sorry for not being clear on that). Anyway, he feels that it's the best front end improvement you can buy for the stock clip. As far as the eccentrics go, he said that they hold an alignment with no difficulty, and that most of the problems with the stock setup actually are the fault of poorly made lower ball joints (including Moog), and the best ones you can buy are sold by CPP (included in the kit). On the issue of sway bars - the larger 1 1/8" sway bar made by Hellwig is too big for this kit, only the 1" or smaller sway bar will fit. So, granted that he gets a lot of business from CPP, there's one endorsement from someone who knows a great deal about first gen front ends.

Cool! Do they have it in stock, or are you on a waiting list?

What are the advantages for a complete $599 kit? And should one still use a locklout kit on this systemonce the alignment is down.

I don't see that much weight being thrown on the front...it's also low to center of gravity so would not affect much. AND moving a battery to the trunk more than compensates for a little extra weight on the nose.

This Kit combined with a handful of Global West Parts could rock my worlld!!!;)


James

What are the advantages for a complete $599 kit? And should one still use a locklout kit on this systemonce the alignment is down.

I don't see that much weight being thrown on the front...it's also low to center of gravity so would not affect much. AND moving a battery to the trunk more than compensates for a little extra weight on the nose.

This Kit combined with a handful of Global West Parts could rock my worlld!!!;)


James

I'm sure that adding a lockout kit to this couldn't hurt, but the person I talked to, who has extensive experience with these front ends, said that the problem with the eccentrics is that they usually aren't torqued down enough. Still, nothing wrong with making sure it can't move at all.

The only advantage to the deluxe kit would be if you needed new shocks, springs, and upper ball joints.

CCP told me ten day before shipping.
Im using Global Lockout kit

Here's a pic of the unit installed (thank's for the link T.Jerman)
This is from C2O's site.

Here's a pic of the unit installed (thank's for the link T.Jerman)
This is from C2O's site.

Thats a darn nice piece!!! Especially for the money!

Yes Please. For me Im very partial to this kit because I already have the fatman clip and this should work

when I first saw it was thinking it would move the tire the width of the rear arm which obviously wouldn't be good

arndog

Ok, I ordered my kit! When install it Ill post some pics. Im also going to play around with the alignment- its possible the kit may work better with different specs than stock. Just something to think about...

NOGO, im werry interrested in your findings in this matter, I think this kit has potencial. You get rid of that triangular rod and get A-arms bouth upper and lower, is there a way to get the spring down to the lower A arm thats a better solution, I THINK SO....

Then an rack and pinion steer to :D

NOGO, im werry interrested in your findings in this matter, I think this kit has potencial. You get rid of that triangular rod and get A-arms bouth upper and lower, is there a way to get the spring down to the lower A arm thats a better solution, I THINK SO....

Then an rack and pinion steer to :D

For the right money I could build you the kit I designed to do just what you want. I doubt I would market it because there are already too many front end options for the Chevy II and by the time the materials are purchased and the coil overs it would start to get up there in price where most people would just spring the money to replace the entire front end. But I would build them one off if people wanted them.

Looking at the posted pic got me thinking if the turing radius was affected and will the wheel width be affected???? I'm not trying do complain about the kit, I kina like the idea but want to find out all the info that I can.

NOGO, im werry interrested in your findings in this matter, I think this kit has potencial. You get rid of that triangular rod and get A-arms bouth upper and lower, is there a way to get the spring down to the lower A arm thats a better solution, I THINK SO....

Then an rack and pinion steer to :D

Yea Im gonna be the guneau pig on this one! Ill do some documenting during install and give you guys some feedback. I just couldnt pass it up for the money- it seems to be the next best thing to a front clip so I thought Id give it a shot!

It will be interesting to see how many orders are placed after you install and tell us how it goes.

Thanks for being our guinea pig on this one.

Don't forget about RGS1260 either. You guys gotta report back to us on this one. Take all the time you want within the next week and a half to get it installed. I'm very patient. :D :rolleyes:

I've been following this post since it started....like everyone else, can't wait to hear the results. Hoping they're worth the price!! :D

Well, i guess I'll be another test case, ordered the deluxe kit on Monday. The lower springs can be had with stock height or with 1 1/5 drop. After talking to my hotrod buddy, and neighbor/Saab Mechanic, I decided to give it a try. As Nogo said, my buddy pointed out that the newer rearends on many imports are set up the same way. My bud did say mark the cams when aligning to check movement. I'll try to get some good photes and figure out how to post them. Stay tuned!




1967 SS
350 w Sag 4 spd

CPP has sent me tracking numbers and it will be here on tues the 14th
The next morning it will all get installed. I already have the Global Lockout kit.
I wonder if I should install a lockout on the front of the control arm also. It also has
the same eccentric setup.

CPP has sent me tracking numbers and it will be here on tues the 14th
The next morning it will all get installed. I already have the Global Lockout kit.
I wonder if I should install a lockout on the front of the control arm also. It also has
the same eccentric setup.

I would think the double Global West lock out would be a fantastic idea!

CPP has sent me tracking numbers and it will be here on tues the 14th
The next morning it will all get installed. I already have the Global Lockout kit.
I wonder if I should install a lockout on the front of the control arm also. It also has
the same eccentric setup.

I honestly think its overkill to use the lockout kit. I would use the eccentrics and mark them to see if they move- but I have a feeling they wont if torqued properly.

Just my $.02

With using the double lock-out woild you be able to get the caster where it ned to be or would you have to compermise??? maby one set and use the eccentric too????

I suppose if I did not already have the Global Lockout kit from my stock welded arms setup I would experiment with (Marking Welding and destroying tires). Why not just cure that problem forever from the start? This kit does nothing to fix that problem but give you brand new eccentrics hence the same problem. TOO Tight suspension bind. TOO Loose eccentrics move.

I suppose if I did not already have the Global Lockout kit from my stock welded arms setup I would experiment with (Marking Welding and destroying tires). Why not just cure that problem forever from the start? This kit does nothing to fix that problem but give you brand new eccentrics hence the same problem. TOO Tight suspension bind. TOO Loose eccentrics move.
I've had similar thoughts while reading this discussion. :) The only thing I can think of that would make TWO eccentrics better than one in this case is that all of the load placed on the control arm isn't on a single eccentric anymore, so maybe two working in concert will be likely to move less.

If it were me installing this kit, I think I'd put the GW lockouts on it to be safe.

Looking at the installed pic it doesn't look like a rack and pinion setup would work. It could be just the angle the picure was taken. It could be a choice between a sway bar or rack and pinion, I don't know. I am very interested to see what it's like one you guys get this installed.

You would bee thinkin to have a "normal" chevy sb in then and not a nova sb?? Novanut..

If to set this up with rack&pinion it should still be the front sump engine and steering in the orginal lokation, then you have the ackerman angel right and no fuzz with the turning ratio aso.. and when you limiting the raise you got more controll over the bumpsteer??

This new A-arm combined with parts from this. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/FCOC_DS_WEB.pdf

Should do a net front suspention on any 1 & 2 gen Nova

Maybee even combined with this...http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/RCK_DS_WEB.pdf

I´m a lithle confused by this company who did this and did not think about the 1 & 2 gen Nova. it would have been a breeze to do the nessesary work to fit "our" cars.

I´m a lithle confused by this company who did this and did not think about the 1 & 2 gen Nova. it would have been a breeze to do the nessesary work to fit "our" cars.

Cool stuff. Of course, that is just a division of Chassisworks that seems to specialize in early Fords. It would be silly to turn down the Nova market for "religious" reasons, but car guys are a strange bunch. I am certain that if you asked them about it, they would tell you to just buy their Chassisworks front clip.

Here's a link to a bolt in rack that mounts behind
the cross member.
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=343/category_id=188/home_id=63/mode=prod/prd343.htm

At $399 thats cheap compared to some of the other front end solutions.
Heak even a poor collage student such as myself could afford. Mabe I might do it this summer if I happen to land a good summer job. Im shure by the then someone on this site will have installed it and given feedback

Maybee even combined with this...http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/RCK_DS_WEB.pdf

I´m a lithle confused by this company who did this and did not think about the 1 & 2 gen Nova. it would have been a breeze to do the nessesary work to fit "our" cars.

They already make a complete front stub(division of Chassisworks) and probably wouldnt want to compromise its sales.

I noticed that Flaming River offers a bolt in rack & Pinion Kit and also a Quick ratio stock box for 62-66 Novas. Im sure it probably got covette gear in it.
Whick setup would give me easier steering. Not sure if the bolt in rack kit will work with CPP tubular control arm setup . My stock box is out so I can go either way. ???????

They already make a complete front stub(division of Chassisworks) and probably wouldnt want to compromise its sales.

If your doing a full restoration and money isn't an Option a front clip would be nice. But how many people have that kind of buget? To me 2,000 to 3,000
seems like alot of money for a front clip. I mean you could almost have a nice motor for that. I think that the company who came up with this tubular A arm setup was looking looking to provide a much cheaper solution twoards the stock front clip.

If this setup is as good as it is claimed to be, Combine it with an idler arm ball bearing kit, and a 16:1 ratio steering box and I think it would be a nice front end setup

I copied the text off of their announcement. I like that it does not add weight (2 pounds?) gives us 2" of ground clearence (good when you lower your ride) does not require a lock out plate kit, and adds forward camber adjustments. For the price there seems to be nothing wrong with this. :chev:

CPP Announces New 1962-67 Nova Mini Sub-Frame Kit

Classic Performance Products announces the introduction of its brand new 1962-67 Nova Mini Sub-Frame Kit. Eliminating the factory strut rods, adding adjustable forward control arm mounts, this kit adds stability, alignability, improved steering response and over 2" of ground clearance for your early Nova. By eliminating the bind of factory strut rods you are able to maintain proper alignment with out the use of a "Lock Out Plate" and gain a free working up and down motion in the lower control arm. The results are better ride quality and positive road feedback. The Mini Sub-Frame accommodates both the factory sway bar and after market 1" bars . After market 1-1/8 bars will not work. The one-piece cross member ties both frame rails together by bolting in where the factory strut rod mounts were located, providing additional strength. The one-piece cross member design adds only 2 lbs to the car after removing the heavy factory strut rods and bulky strut rod mounts. There is no cutting or welding required. The rear of the lower control arm mounts in the factory location and the original camber adjustments are used. The front of the lower control mounts to the new cross member and adds a forward caster adjustment to guarantee a perfect, simple and hassle free alignment.
This kit includes 2 one-piece 1-1/4" 120 wall DOM tubular lower control arms, simple bolt-in 1/4" thick steel cross member with forward mounting, 4 alignment cam kits, grade 8 hardware, and CPP's low friction, long life bushings. The retail price for this kit which includes CPP's new premium lower ball joints is $349. A deluxe kit that comes complete with upper control arm bushings, upper ball joints, 1.5" lowered coil springs, and shocks is also available for $599.

They already make a complete front stub(division of Chassisworks) and probably wouldnt want to compromise its sales.

If your doing a full restoration and money isn't an Option a front clip would be nice. But how many people have that kind of buget? To me 2,000 to 3,000
seems like alot of money for a front clip. I mean you could almost have a nice motor for that. I think that the company who came up with this tubular A arm setup was looking looking to provide a much cheaper solution twoards the stock front clip.

If this setup is as good as it is claimed to be, Combine it with an idler arm ball bearing kit, and a 16:1 ratio steering box and I think it would be a nice front end setup


I like manipulating the factory stuff into modern stuff too. But the Total Control Mustang stuff from the earlier link is NOT cheap by anymeans. If money was tight I would buy the CCP stuff and go from there. I have my own design of bolt on front suspension w/ coil overs and w/ or w/o rack for a stock stub. But being as nice as the components are it would become real close in price with a complete aftermarket front stub so I am not really pursuing th idea. As far as front ends I just spent 5 grand on my front end, thats 3 times what I had in buying the car.:eek:

Looks more and more like the new lower A-arm is a good investment..

Still I´ll wait for a build/drive report from them who buys it now.. You have an easier way when any complain´s are to bee .. Its real difficult living in Sweden having the wrong parts or so..the freigt cost back with bad parts is as expensive as buying new parts alone..

I have some friens that are somewhat front end experts (was away in south africa fro a couple of weeks doing comersials for volvo as a driver) I´ll do a "talkabout" whit him, and a report then an order is possible.

this looks like the same kit, from another supplier.

http://performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=18193&cat=604&page=1

this looks like the same kit, from another supplier.

http://performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=18193&cat=604&page=1

Here's an interesting thing: Performance Online is right across town from Classic Performance, and I gather there's no love lost between the two. I called PO about a week and a half ago, to ask them if they thought their tubular upper arms would be compatible with CPP's tubular lower arm kit. They had never heard of it. The person I talked to was friendly enough, but said that if CPP came out with something new, it meant they had ripped off someone else's idea. :rolleyes: Now, whaddya know. :D This does look identical, except of course that it's two plates instead of a crossmember for the same price. I'd go with the CPP version. Oh, and I guess my question about compatibility is answered. :D

They do list tubular "upper" control arms also, no pic or price,but
supposedly available. Now it's getting interesting!!

Here's a link
http://performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17764&cat=604&page=1

Rich

They do list tubular "upper" control arms also, no pic or price,but
supposedly available. Now it's getting interesting!!

Here's a link
http://performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17764&cat=604&page=1

Rich

Yeah, that's what I called them about. They couldn't give me a firm date or price on those, but they've had them listed for a couple months at least.

Sorry Greg, I missed the reference to "upper" was just looking
at the comparrison between the lower control arms. I also think
CPP's one piece is a stronger design. If you get a updated price
on the upper arms please post, thank's for the link.
Rich

No sweat, Rich. If the upper arms do come out, and at a reasonable price, it would be cool to have tubular upper and lower arms with basically stock geometry. I wonder though about the extra caster they claim to have built into the upper arms, and if there would be any downside to that?

I believe the only down side is xtra steering effort while parking, but
not noticable at highway speeds with 4 degrees. I was under the
impression 2 1/2 deg was a good street setting for castor, maybe
a front end Guru will add to this post to clarify.
At least we would'nt be pulling the wheel forward to get our castor
like a stocker which always interfers with the edge of the front
fender.
Rich

Whoopeee. NOW thing realy happens around the early Novas.. Now all guesswork for your own construction is out the window :)

Now its only to choose the best setup :rolleyes: and start working to get the "buck" for it :p :D

Now I love my early -67 Nova even MORE

The thought of been able to "run over" the ricer boys even when the road turns is a thrill

( on test and tune days at the track of course :o )

Even the Company names are similar AND the products are both priced at $349???? What? I think I like the CPP better, but for No special reason.

The CPP product does the fact that you DO NOT NEED a LOckout Kit!!! So it eliminates that movement?

Somebody please buy this and do a product review before I die waiting!!!

;)


James

Somebody please buy this and do a product review before I die waiting!!!



James

I was hoping to have mine installed and a review for you guys this weekend, but Im moving this weekend! Ill put it in one evening next week...

CPP has sent me tracking numbers and it will be here on tues the 14th
The next morning it will all get installed. I

So, how did it go? :D

Installed kit today
Looks like good quality well made parts.
The forgot to send the balljoints .
Lukily I had an extra set of moogs in stock
One thing I noticed right off No Steering Stops.
I wonder if this will be an issue.

Installed kit today
Looks like good quality well made parts.
The forgot to send the balljoints .
Lukily I had an extra set of moogs in stock
One thing I noticed right off No Steering Stops.
I wonder if this will be an issue.

Yer killin' me! :D

How does it handle?

My Car wont be on the road until later this year.
Still minitubbing just installed Bullet Proof 8.5 narrowed rear.(Trurtrac 30 Spline Moser Axles) .
Moved spring inboard 275/60/15 fits like stock.
Just got parts to put corvette gear in my steering box.
Saw this lower arm setup and had to have it!!!!!!!

Ah, I thought ya had a running/rolling vehicle. Serves me right for thinking! :D

NOGO, you're up! ;)

John Bianchi, who goes by "boneschiro" on this site, just got his car back today with this new set-up in. He's bring the car over this weekend, I'll be fabbing up some new, better, mount for a rear swaybar set-up for him. I'm looking forward to a ride in his second-genner with this new front end. NOGO- care to come up and take a lookey?

Teddisnoke, I´ll wait for your "road report" as a kid for x-mas and santa.. :D

Have a great weekend.

John Bianchi, who goes by "boneschiro" on this site, just got his car back today with this new set-up in. He's bring the car over this weekend, I'll be fabbing up some new, better, mount for a rear swaybar set-up for him. I'm looking forward to a ride in his second-genner with this new front end. NOGO- care to come up and take a lookey?

I can come over Sunday afternoon- but Ill be moving on Saturday to my new apartment(long story). I would like to check it out on someone elses car first. I wonder what alignment specs he used???

care to come up and take a lookey?
Is there room for one more Nova, I wanta check it out plus see your other project you got going.

Take pictures and post them. We need to know everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)

Hey guys I am wondering with this kit from cpp ,, if a guy tried to put a rack and pinion on with with front steering arms,, if there is going to be a interferance issue with with the tie rods getting in the way of the lower control arm or vise versa ... Just wondering I called cpp yesterday to ask this question and although the guy i was talking to was very helpfull he couldnt answer my question..... I am in no way putting cpp down I just need an answer before i buy this because I already have a pinto rack on the front of my 64 ...

Matt

Hey guys I am wondering with this kit from cpp ,, if a guy tried to put a rack and pinion on with with front steering arms,, if there is going to be a interferance issue with with the tie rods getting in the way of the lower control arm or vise versa ... Just wondering I called cpp yesterday to ask this question and although the guy i was talking to was very helpfull he couldnt answer my question..... I am in no way putting cpp down I just need an answer before i buy this because I already have a pinto rack on the front of my 64 ...

Matt


I am in the same boat with a front steer rack.

Well, has anyone been able to see it installed yet?

Well, has anyone been able to see it installed yet?

Mine will be in this weekend- Ill post a writeup for you guys.

I stared at it for a couple hours last Sunday. I like it, it's solid, they use poly bushings everywhere. I have no idea about the issue with an existing rack though. It seems to really tighten the front end up. Bryan (NOGO) will be a great judge of this set-up as this is what the guy does for a living. I can only say from a fabrication and workmanship point that it is well thought out with the exception of one item (I'm a nit-picker). I would love to have seen zert fittings where the bushings are, but with polygraphite you would not need them.Good luck this weekend, Bryan. We'll be thinking of you. By the way, let me know if the CPP stickers on your lower control arm's are upside down also.We had a little joke about this last weekend (something to the effect of having to flip a car upside down to read the name!!!!) DAle

Man...this is almost as bad as waiting for a parts to arrive in the mail...

I know, I know, just be patient. I'm just really eager to see how this looks and works. It doesn't help that I have $400 burning a hole in my pocket.

Well, I got my "Deluxe" kit delievered on Friday. Got home around 8:30pm and was surprised to find that they had left out the lower ball joints and one set of upper control arm bushings. Needles to say I' m a little pissed. Went to GoodGuys and walked it off. I'll be screaming on the phone Monday to get the remaining parts. They'll all go on next weekend if they can get the parts here. Stuff looks nice, to bad its not all here.

Can't wait to here how Nogo's install goes.

Ok, heres the update. Called Classic Performance to find the missing parts and got a very pleasant surprise. They really do care about customer service and the end user. When I inquired about the parts, I was told someone wanted to talk to me. Kind of like when your a kid and get that line, "is that a good thing or bad?", in this case a very good thing. I spent the next 30 minutes on the phone with Jim, one of the bosses at CPP. Wow! He knew what I was missing before I even spoke, but more than that, they (CPP) have been watching the posts about this product. Jim was hesitant to jump on the site, but reported all the changes they're working on for the kit. After continuing the talk about the Nova woes, he reported that lockouts will be coming, even though his engineer says they dont need them. Tubular uppers are soon to hit the test car and they're working on the rack& pinion option. Clearly they are working to improve the Nova's achilles. A coilover set up is also in the works as well as other goodies.
While I haven't got my kit in yet, my parts were going out the door and I have a great deal of new found respect for the people at CPP.
PS they're watching and we do make a difference. If you guys have questions about the kit email Jim or Danny @classicperform.com.

They have definitley rewon my business and respect. I hope to put the kit on Saturday with before and after photos. P. S. Jims sending me a their new lockout kit for the A-Arms. Will give it a fair test, w/o lockout first.

Sean

NOGO sent you a pm

Thats good to hear, especially after I ordered my kit on Sat!

Jack

yeah it would be great if someone would design and produce a rack mount to put in place of the original crossmember. something similar to the Bills rack converstion would be sweet with the tublar lower a-arms. Hope CPP comes through with this. Use the accufab coilover kit along with this and you have a mostly stock appearing car with modern upgrades.

yeah it would be great if someone would design and produce a rack mount to put in place of the original crossmember. something similar to the Bills rack converstion would be sweet with the tublar lower a-arms. Hope CPP comes through with this. Use the accufab coilover kit along with this and you have a mostly stock appearing car with modern upgrades.

Been done. Had it on my hardtop. It was a nice piece of moly tube that bolted on. Dave@ Sheppard Race cars 1-770-787-9760

Whell This is realy good news.

The deal is looking more good than ever whit the talk about uper A-arm, coilover and R&P yea.. finaly, things hapens in MY direction :D

Cant wait until first testdrive report is in.

Well the parts gods are realigning. Cpp got me the parts and included a nifty set of multi positions lockouts. Its obvious that the problems are being addressed as they included a letter about problems, fixes and their continued development of their "budget" mini clip. Hope to slap it on the 67 this weekend and will try to gets some good before and after photos to post.


Sean
67 ss 350 with Sag 4 sp

Well my clip is in- but not in its entirety. I am missing two eccentric bolts and a frame bolt which I will be calling and hopefully picking up from CPP today. When its all said and done Ive got some pics and comments to share- hopefully Ill have a chance to post them this evening.

Well my clip is in- but not in its entirety. I am missing two eccentric bolts and a frame bolt which I will be calling and hopefully picking up from CPP today. When its all said and done Ive got some pics and comments to share- hopefully Ill have a chance to post them this evening.

Did you try the install with your Hellwig sway bar? I know the site says 1" diameter sway bar is the largest that will work, but I also know you were in favor of the Hellwig bar.

Did you try the install with your Hellwig sway bar? I know the site says 1" diameter sway bar is the largest that will work, but I also know you were in favor of the Hellwig bar.

I didnt try to install the swaybar yet- I was a little PO'd that I didnt have all the parts I needed to finish the job so I just walked away. I will make an attempt to use the Hellwig bar after I finish the kit install and let you know.

Well I picked up my missing parts from CPP- Im looking forward to finishing the job after work today.

I must say CPP has excellent customer service and the staff was more than happy to help me out- as well as give me a free lockout kit(which I may not use unless I really need to). They also showed me their Nova project car that has a new tubular upper control arm(not released yet) for those interested. I also got a chance to speak with the engineer who designed the kit and pick his brain a little.

Please let us know about the hellwig sway bar! My kit should be here in 2 weeks, and I really dont want to buy another sway bar to fit it.

Jack

For all those who are watching this thread, NOGO just did a great write up, which you can read HERE (http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36016). :D

Here are the spy shots of the tubular upper control arms::eek: :D
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/FunkyuNova66/Gifs/NOVA_UCA_3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/FunkyuNova66/Gifs/arm.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/FunkyuNova66/Gifs/arm2.jpg

I know what I'm asking Santa Claus this year.:rolleyes:

Dave

Here are the spy shots of the tubular upper control arms::eek: :D

I know what I'm asking Santa Claus this year.:rolleyes:

Dave

Why wait for Santa? How about we start talking about a group buy?? :D

do they give an increase in caster?



I'm in on the group buy

Hope you guys liked the "photos", thanks Funky for posting them for me. I haven't gotten a chance to put my "deluxe" kit in yet, but I'm likin these uppers. I'll send an email to Jim at CPP and inquire about the caster and future prices. These things are literally being developed as we speak. I'll pitch the idea of a group buy, but they may still be setting up the production runs. The lowers were so popular that they had to increase production to meet demand. Stay tuned, Sean:D

thanks Funky for posting them for me. No problem....my pleasure.:D I'm just glad to see someone doing this for us!:beer:

Dave

Ok for everyone paying attention to the CPP kit updates, heres the latest. If you look at the "Unofficial install" post by NOGO, Bryan our newly deemed "techguy" has talked to Jim at CPP. Nice to have an informed Nova person talking with a company thats trying to make quality products that fit Nova people's needs. After the spy photos, I sent an email to Jim with some questions. He replied that the arms dont increase caster, that they are working on building and testing some that are 3/16 shorter to help tire clearance and that no they dont move the wheels out farther.

Realize their trying to design these items with all the spindle and brake combos in mind. He states that if they can make the design for the uppers work on both sides, they will sell for around $200.00 a set. (Pray it'll work) And he seemed very open to the group buy concept. Lets see what you guys think and keep our fingers crossed. Please post your thoughts and comments because they are really helping the evolution of some cool Nova parts. Now I just need the time to get mine in, and uppers would be very cool and affordable at that pricing.
Sean:rolleyes:

I am so sold that I am blushing to admit it. Keep the good stuff coming for us First Genners. I love good suspension parts.

The 68-74s have the advantage of a Camaro foundation working for them.

It's us First/Genners that need the help here.

Thanks CPP

sr67ss, I need to completely redo my 67 front but i dont like the after mrkt clips with the ugly inner fenders. I WOULD DEFINATELY BE INTERESTED IN A GROUP BUY FOR THE LOWER KIT, UPPER KIT AND COILOVERS. i want it to handle but i aggree with most guys here,i can use 2k somewhere else better, than a front clip. keep me informed...please..
thanks
rich:chev: :eek: :cool:

I will need these items fairly soon but not a desperate state yet but i do have a few bucks right now. I have lots of questions on what kind of bushings and b-j to use, etc. maybe this will answer those questions..
rich:chev: :cool:

Hello, I just wanted to let everyone know that nnnova sells these kits too and maybe we should get them from them to help support the ones that sponsor this site. The price is the same either way. Whatcha all think?

Now that is an Idea:D. I'm still debating idea. Just when I'm finish the heim conversion o the 62.

Hey Ricks67, saw your post and next time I email Jim at CPP all ask about the coilovers progress and the cost of an entire kit. Realize that these are all being designed and built as we chat. They are still trying to remedy the larger sway bar issue, along with plenty of others. I'll pass on the info and try to get you some anwsers. I don't mean to aim people away from site sponsers and I don't work for CPP, just happened to complain at the right time I guess.

My thoughts are that no matter who these products are bought from, we have a very cool opportunity to have input on what is made and how it will work. For a novice, I mean very novice car guy, thats the stuff I always dreamed of. If we get the kit from NNN, I know that Jim and the guys at CPP have taken to heart our thoughts and rants to create some very cool 1st gen stuff. Stay tuned:cool:
Sean

I did it 3 weeks ago. Nice unit, lessens the weight by removing the Strut Rods and brackets. Makes front end of car look real sweet. You must loosenradiation and at lest moove it away from the lower mounting holes
you need to access.

I Used lock-out kit (fore and aft) if using the eccentrics you must use all 4 points each side otherwise you will possibly create a bind. When installing the lower arms you will find they will try to seek their own position. For instance on the fronts my lock out bolts are to the extreme outside and the rear lockouts are centered. This positon is where the arms want to be without any bind.fiugre the eccentrics will do what the strut rods did, not keep adjustment, and I do not believe in over tightening the nuts to the degree necessary to keep eccentrics in place. The lock outs give you about 4 positions to play with for caster. On install I was out 4 degrees on caster.
Big concern is front tire clearnce to lower fender lip, so we setup the side with most gap and did the other side to it. Had to play with the position of the lock outs on one side to get Caster right.
Big issue with my car is the wheel base measurement was 1" off - 111" vs 110". That had to be corrected - since I have multileafs and no position pin up top when I put on the traction bars it was sort of a guessing game to the rear end alignment. The Alignmnet Shop showed my poor measurements of the rear. Otherwise, the CCP kit is the best bucks you can spend on the stock front end of the Nova.
PS-using eccentrics or lock outs the face of either style goes up into the bracket, does not hang down below the bracket as shown by Nat'l Nostal. Nova in there pics of the install. This month's Super Chevy has an article on the kit also