All the Header Advice For 1st & 2nd Generation Chevy II [Archive] - Chevy Nova Forum

: All the Header Advice For 1st & 2nd Generation Chevy II


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67ChevySedan
9th-July-2005, 06:41 PM
Has anyone installed Hooker Headers in a '67 with a sm blk chevy? how did you go about installing them, and was there any clearance/spark plug wire issues?

shawn63
9th-July-2005, 06:53 PM
Fenderwell or chassis exit?

67ChevySedan
9th-July-2005, 09:08 PM
uhh, OEM path, so Chassis exit. :confused:

Mrb6602
9th-July-2005, 10:18 PM
67ChevySedan,
I have Hooker SuperComps on my 66, should be the same for the 67.
They are a pain, the engine has to be lifted a bit and the car has to be quite a ways off the ground, either on a hoist or on some high jackstands. The headers have to come in from the bottom if the engine is in the car.

Not real fun!

67ChevySedan
10th-July-2005, 12:38 AM
So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)

63-ChevyII
10th-July-2005, 10:47 AM
I have 63 Chevy II with a 327 T-350 floor shift that I am looking for the best fitting, full length header for. I plan to buy ceramics and don't even want to think about denting them to get clearance and don't want them rubbing and would like to get at all the plugs. My first thought was to go with block huggers but that takes me out of the "Header Back" exhaust packages that are out there and that combined with less than half the HP gain compared to full length headers, it seems like a no-brain'er to go with the full length headers. I understand they are a tight fit, I put 2 different sets of Hookers on my 65 many years ago. The motor had to be lifted, they had to be dented to get clearance, they rubbed, and changing plugs was a bear. Has anybody had better luck with headers on First Gen. Chevy-II's or should I reconsider Block Huggers? 63-ChevyII.....Mike

Mike Goble
10th-July-2005, 12:00 PM
Any set of 'full length' headers isn't going to be easy to install in an early Nova, and the choices for a mild 327 are limited. If you use design programs such as Pipemax or the one at www.headerdesign.com you find that a 325hp 327 could use a set of 1-1/2" primaries about 36" long with a 2-1/4" collector. You won't find anything close to that off the shelf.
I've used the J&W Nova 1-5/8" header primaries with aftermarket merge collectors with great success. They fit about as well as any OTS headers will, and are reasonably priced.
There are a few factors involved in the fit of the headers, like the positioning of the engine due to modified motor mounts, the change in angle of the headers due to angle milling of cylinder heads, the type of heads you use, etc. We've had 4 different engines in the Durango Deuce in the last few years, and the headers fit different with each engine.
Plug access isn't easy to start with in any early Nova, and you can complicate it easily by adding a rear sump pan with a dipstick blocking access to the 5 & 7 plugs, change from a single pot M/C to a dual with power brakes and lots of tubing to additionally complicate getting to these plugs, etc.

GrandmaGold
10th-July-2005, 01:36 PM
My 67' works perfect with my Super Comps. No major fabing needed.

Repointer
10th-July-2005, 01:47 PM
So does anyone make "shorty" sytle Universal headers that just simply dump straight down?(J.C. Whitney used to have it for the SB chevy, can't find it tho)

I think its Sanderson that makes the shorty's and they are 1 1/2's. You can usually find them on ebay to give you an idea of what they look like. Do you know the part number off your Hooker's?

67ChevySedan
10th-July-2005, 03:56 PM
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/make&model/62_67novamm.htm

I got a stock sb chevy, so my number is the cc14?

and I'm not sure if this picture is the correct repenstation, I'll check Ebay..
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc14.htm

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/5525/sanderson26ir.jpg

Now with these I should NOT have to put the car on jackstands, jack the motor, and all that BS right?

Greg_R_63
10th-July-2005, 05:11 PM
According to other forum members, correct. They will drop in from the top and bolt on with no problems. Some have complained about leaking at the flanges, but most have used them without a problem. Also, it's supposed to be difficult for the muffler installer to bend the pipes to make clearance around the starter.

Greg_R_63
10th-July-2005, 05:21 PM
Hey Mike, a couple weeks back you mentioned to me via PM that you had a special/modified wrench you use to get to some of the plugs. Can you post pics of it?

jer66nova
10th-July-2005, 05:23 PM
which header part number you use for the under car super comp I have come up with hooker part #2243 and fender wellis #2214, 2243 list for 419.00 I am looking for a set of under car headers for 66 with small block with 4 speed with lakewood bellhousing and scatter shield. I have heard of lemmons headers and are custom headers and are expensive. do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

Greg_R_63
10th-July-2005, 05:25 PM
do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

Definitely not.

64PRONOVA
10th-July-2005, 06:10 PM
I never had any major problems removing plugs from my '64 with full headers (numerous brands). For the rear plugs you use just the plug socket with a 7/8" wrench on the end (no ratchet). The rest come out easily with a ratchet. Never dreaded changing plugs.

Greg_R_63
10th-July-2005, 06:17 PM
Pro, does that include J&W, and Hedman 68160?

Mike Goble
10th-July-2005, 07:05 PM
Hey Mike, a couple weeks back you mentioned to me via PM that you had a special/modified wrench you use to get to some of the plugs. Can you post pics of it?

http://www.samstagsales.com/Gedore/gd1b-21x.jpg

I don't have any pics, but the above one will give you an idea. Imagine, if you will, a short 5/8" box end wrench with an extra deep end, which I make by welding the detached box end of another 5/8" wrench directly under the first one with the points lined up, so that a plug can slide completely through. I grind it round so it will clear the head bolts. It serves much the same purpose as a spark plug socket with a wrench attached, except I find it easier to work with.

VonSwanko
10th-July-2005, 07:16 PM
I had to move one of my primarys to clear the oil pan.The pan is a rear sump and has a kick out on both sides.So I had to change the routing of the #5 tube.

Rob

Greg_R_63
10th-July-2005, 08:13 PM
Thanks! Good to know.

67ChevySedan
10th-July-2005, 09:01 PM
did I mention my 400 cid motor had 283 exhaust manifolds on it? :eek:

sanderson headers I'll get, because I need new exhaust manifolds, and headers are just *that* much better! :D

65 Post
15th-July-2005, 04:10 PM
Hi Mike. That is a pretty nifty wrench. Where did you get it? I can tell it's not a Craftsman, or Snap On or the like. Probably just a parts store, huh? Dave

Greg_R_63
15th-July-2005, 04:13 PM
If you look at the pic's url, its a fancy German wrench, and probably metric at that :) I think it's just the first place he knew of that had something like it.

Mike Goble
15th-July-2005, 05:27 PM
I did a search for 'combination wrench' and came up with the pic. My wrench is actually made from two cheap Harbor Freight wrenches.

Greg_R_63
15th-July-2005, 05:30 PM
Good. I was afraid you were cheating on your Novas with a Beamer or something :D

NOGO
15th-July-2005, 05:45 PM
I run Hedman headers- they are a super tight fit but I didnt have to modify them.

JBimmolate
15th-July-2005, 06:47 PM
I don't recomend the summit brand full leangth headers. They take a lot of work and they still hit my steering arm @ full turn. You can do whatever you want though. Just my opinion & experience.

Miles :D

Sarge sixty-two
15th-July-2005, 09:01 PM
Very timely post.....I just finished putting a 327 sbc in my 62 (today in fact). I bought (shorty) block hugger headers from Big B Auto because I knew there would be clearance problems. There is no way to make them fit. Especially on the driver's side there is no getting past the steering box.

I guess I'll look at Ram's horns to see if they are any better. They flow almost as good as headers. (or so I've heard)

Any comments?

Greg_R_63
15th-July-2005, 09:14 PM
Yes, most 'normal' block huggers will not fit at all. The Sanderson cc14s are specifically made to work with early Nova, as are the JW headers, and the Hedman 68160 and their Elite equivalent. Don't expect generics to work. Even the purpose made ones have enough variation, not to mention differences in heads, motor mounts, etc., that one person will have to dent, where another will not.

rjy
15th-July-2005, 10:20 PM
I also am running the Headman and love the way they are built. H/D flanges and a good solid feel. The fit was tight with my Edelbrock RPM heads but not that bad. They are not as bright as some of the others. After I broke my in, I took and polished them up with this metal polish and they came out looking like they were chrome plated.

63-ChevyII
15th-July-2005, 10:50 PM
NOGO and RJY, you guys are both running full length Headman Headers. A couple questions. Did you have to pull the motor to get them in? Can you get at the plugs? Can you run the long oil filter? So the "Thermal" coating they offer is not as shiny as ceramic? Is it the same thing? Did you guys buy a "header back" system for the rest of your exhaust system or just take it to an exhaust shop? Thanks in advance for the info guy's.

NovatoriusRex
16th-July-2005, 12:43 AM
NOGO and RJY, you guys are both running full length Headman Headers. A couple questions. Did you have to pull the motor to get them in? Can you get at the plugs? Can you run the long oil filter? So the "Thermal" coating they offer is not as shiny as ceramic? Is it the same thing? Did you guys buy a "header back" system for the rest of your exhaust system or just take it to an exhaust shop? Thanks in advance for the info guy's.
I installed Headman 68160s on my 67. It isn't necessary to pull the motor to install them. The driver's side needs to go in from the bottom up and the passenger side needs to go in from the top down. At least this is the way it was on my car after I modified them (I lengthened the primaries). It helped to drop the starter also, but again this may be a result of my lengtening. It helps to have the front of the car about 1ft in the air, but again this may be due to the fact that I lengthened each header about 15".

The plugs are easy to get to. The only difficult part is getting the boots on the plug wires to seat properly. It's managable though. There is no oil filter clearance issue on them either. It's not anywhere close to a header tube.

I can't speak on exhaust plumbing yet. Mine won't be the same as an unmodified set of Hedman's anyway. If you want to see what I did, take a look at the Tech/Headers page on my website.

I'm glad I went with the Hedmans. :)

Greg_R_63
16th-July-2005, 01:05 AM
Hey Rex, how much did the muffler shop charge you to weld up the header extensions?

If you haven't decided on a coating yet, you might want to check out http://www.thermaltechcoatings.com/ I only found a few customer posts on the web at large, but all reports are positive. Plus, they seem to be much less expensive than Jet Hot. I called them a few weeks back, asking about their ram-horn style headers, they are actually Patriot headers that they coat and re-sell, and I was very impressed with the rep that I spoke to. He told me flat out that none of the headers they carried would fit an early Nova, but that they would coat a set of the Sandersons, inside and out, for $100. Just got a good vibe off of them in general, for what it's worth.

NovatoriusRex
16th-July-2005, 01:17 AM
Hey Rex, how much did the muffler shop charge you to weld up the header extensions?

If you haven't decided on a coating yet, you might want to check out http://www.thermaltechcoatings.com/ I only found a few customer posts on the web at large, but all reports are positive. Plus, they seem to be much less expensive than Jet Hot. I called them a few weeks back, asking about their ram-horn style headers, they are actually Patriot headers that they coat and re-sell, and I was very impressed with the rep that I spoke to. He told me flat out that none of the headers they carried would fit an early Nova, but that they would coat a set of the Sandersons, inside and out, for $100. Just got a good vibe off of them in general, for what it's worth.

I got lucky, in that another member of this site likes to weld up headers and was willing to assist me with the first two rounds of modifications. He welded and I supplied parts and my desires for the finished product. I spent about $200 for 10 feet of quality mild steel tubing, 2 properly sized collectors, and some mandrel bends, and the rest was essentially free.

The only welds I had to cough up cash for was the last little bit to lengthen the passenger side collector another 7" and that was only $15 at a local exhaust shop. I have about $400 invested in these headers so far and coating them will add on about $200 more. I think it'll be worth it for a quality, well tuned header.

Thanks for the coater suggestion. I'll check them out.

rjy
16th-July-2005, 07:42 AM
I run the long style oil filter, I also install my passenger side first from the top by pulling that motor mount bolt and tilting the motor slightly. My Edlebrock RPM heads are wider then factory style. I then did the same thing with the drivers side, but installed from bottom. I had to also fish the 4 speed linkage through at this time. All and All not to bad. My heads spreads the exit end of my headers out to the frame rails so there is plenty of room to get a full size starter up into place. I like the ball type collector hook up where you dont have a gasket to blow out. I built my own 2.5 exhaust going into Flowmaster and exit just in front of the rear tires. I ran my this way because I like the look May not be the best performance set up.

Dan_Lebherz
16th-July-2005, 10:48 AM
I am running the inexpensive Hedmans (cheap) on my '64 wagon. They were only around a $100 as I recall it, 4 years ago. I really have no complaint with the fit. They have 1.5" primaries and 3" collector. I would like to do the modifications described above, but have not undertaken that yet. I am currently running a 2.25" exhaust system that I had done at a Mienike shop.
(Exhaust work without a lift or at least 2 feet of clearance under the car is not my idea of a good time.)

I have installed them with the engine in and out of the car. It was really no big deal in my opinion. With these headers available so inexpensively, I do not understand why anyone would want to use shorties on a first gen. The effort or cost to build head pipes for the shorties is not insignificant. The only thing I can think of that I found surprising is that the drivers side collector is not parallel with the floor, unlike the pass side. This means that you must allow for some type of correction to get the drivers side exhaust to not hang too low. They look the same to me as the coated headers for first gen available on E-Bay. Mine are not coated.

NovatoriusRex
16th-July-2005, 12:15 PM
The only thing I can think of that I found surprising is that the drivers side collector is not parallel with the floor, unlike the pass side. This means that you must allow for some type of correction to get the drivers side exhaust to not hang too low. They look the same to me as the coated headers for first gen available on E-Bay. Mine are not coated.
Fixing that issue was what prompted "Round II" of my header modifications. Brandon & I worked up & implemented plans for fitting in a 10* upward bend in the primaries to decrease collector to floor clearance by 1.5" on the driver's side. With my extensions in place, the Hedman's downward pitch on the driver's side header was magnified greatly.

Someone started another thread here about starter fitment too. My mini starter has about 3/4" clearance also. That's another thing to be aware of when trying to fit a pair of these Hedman's. The starter clearance is up from 1/16" I had with a full size starter under there. The starter heat wrap I installed should keep this from being a problem.

jer66nova
16th-July-2005, 12:20 PM
Greg is correct. The full Hookers would have been better performance-wise. Shorties are a compromise header for fitment issues. Better than stock manifolds - not as good a full headers. There are several full length headers made that will fit your car. Installing them from underneath is no big deal (pretty easy really). I would rather have real headers than the shorties unless there was no other option.


Agreed, but still,do you know the pn. for the under car header for my set up?? also It looks like your car is set up pro street is it four link or ladder bar looking to get advice on rear widths

63-ChevyII
16th-July-2005, 01:35 PM
I installed Headman 68160s on my 67. If you want to see what I did, take a look at the Tech/Headers page on my website.

I'm glad I went with the Hedmans. :)

NovatoriusRex, that is one great web site you have going there!!!!!! Thanks as well for all the good info here. I will be calling Hedman Tech on Monday and hopefully ordering them.

RJY, I also plan to run Flowmaster mufflers, I plan to run the series 40. I am not sure if I want to run them out in front of the tires as you have or all the way out the back. I also like the look in front of the tires, but #1, I don't like all the dust the turn downs blows up and #2, I am wondering if the loud mufflers will be to much to deal with at cruising speeds exiting right under the windows. What series Flowmaster mufflers are you running, and how is the sound in general as well as inside the car while cruising? Thanks, 63-ChevyII.....Mike

Raymond
16th-July-2005, 02:07 PM
There's a person selling a set of Sandersons that are polished in the "For Sale" section of this site,buy those and you will have no problems....I have the same style on my 64.

mychevyii20
16th-July-2005, 04:12 PM
My comments are about Hedmans.
The Chevy II stock front end is a tight fit for headers. With tolerances mentioned above they may or may not fit. I used a mini-starter. Had to orient the motor part upside down to get it to clear the headers. Passenger side went in from the top pulling them up from underneath. Driver side had to lift the car about 18" to get them angled around the steering box. And a little clearance adjustment around the stock steering box.

If you want pristine, or show quality, I would suggest getting un-coated ones. Make sure they fit/adjusted, then get them coated.

I used 90 degree plug wires, shorty header spark plugs (1.4" shorter) and put heat boots on the spark plug boots also. Running great no problems.

Oct 2013. I installed the Hooker Super Comp 2234 (http://www.hubbardhobbies.com/novapics/headers-sc.htm) 1 3/4". Why? See link for details.

rjy
16th-July-2005, 04:22 PM
I run the 50 series which are 3 chambered. They have a nice sound and like I said I like the look. If I was to do it over I would go with the summit flex couplers to allow for some flex and take care of driver side angle. I would also run the Hedman X-treme exhaust equalizers with the flowmasters and I would run it completely out the back with some nice tips. 2.5 in size.

67ChevySedan
16th-July-2005, 05:54 PM
now I got the caster/camber lockout kit from Chevy2only, and the upper control arm bolts are longer than the stock ones, about 1/2" longer, will this cause fitment problems with Sanderson's?

nitroweldon
16th-July-2005, 09:29 PM
Jer66nova, I just bought a 67. The car is totally stripped down, but it came with a muncie, lakewood scatter shield, and hooker super comp headers. The # on the headers is 2122 04 03.

smoree
17th-July-2005, 09:50 PM
As someone else noted, the Hedman 68160's are of excellent quality especially when you consider the price. Put a set on my 67 (with a 350 SB) and I am pleased with the fit. I ground a small area on the subframe support on the passenger side where the collector flange plate is located. Also had to install a mini-starter, but did not have to ding the headers. Have them running temporarily through a set of the summit glass packs until I can get it to the muffler shop. The sound is awesome in the garage...but my wife doesn't like the way it rattles the pictures in the house.

67ChevySedan
18th-July-2005, 02:16 AM
Hey, Chevy2Only has what looks like Sanderson Shorty headers, but they are uncoated?


What do I get, Ceramic Coated, or noncoated ones I have to paint myself?(I assume you paint them with manifold paint?

Greg_R_63
18th-July-2005, 11:32 AM
Hey, Chevy2Only has what looks like Sanderson Shorty headers, but they are uncoated?


What do I get, Ceramic Coated, or noncoated ones I have to paint myself?(I assume you paint them with manifold paint?

Where do you see this? I can't find anything like the Sandersons on the C2Only site. Their part number 13001 looks identical to the Hedman 68160, but I don't know why you would pay them $180 for it, when you can get the Hedman from Summit for $136.

Greg_R_63
18th-July-2005, 01:01 PM
I used a mini-starter. Had to orient the motor part upside down to get it to clear the headers.
How is this even possible? I am using a mini-starter with the angled bolt pattern. You cannot re-orient nothing. Not being sarcastic, just genuinely curious.
Passenger side went in from the top pulling them up from underneath. Driver side had to lift the car about 18" to get them angled around the steering box.
And there it is. One person reading that is going to say to themselves "No problem!", whereas another will say, "He has to do that, just to install headers?? that means I will end up having to take out the engine for sure!"

I'm willing to do some work to get headers to fit, but the most trouble free option for most people seems to be to drop in the Sanderson cc14s, and let the muffler shop do the rest. That means that someone will post about how much trouble they had with the Sandersons leaking, etc., but that's the point: everyone is going to have a different experience with putting headers on these cars. The easiest header to put in will not be the best performing one, either.

NOGO
18th-July-2005, 01:12 PM
There is no way I could have installed my headers without removing(or atleast moving) the engine. I run a stock starter and long oil filter with no clearance issues.

67ChevySedan
18th-July-2005, 02:40 PM
1962-1967 HEADER - BLOCK HUGGER will fit square or oval port heads 13010 229.95 Pair SHORTY HEADERS
Not Coatedhttp://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~showpic~0000132a~AABUB~~~

since they're not coated, I probabaly not get these. :(

Greg_R_63
18th-July-2005, 02:55 PM
If I was going for the Sandersons, I would buy this pair on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33631&item=7986660571&sspagename=WDVW) from Nova Joe. 300 coated and shipped.

63novawagon63
18th-July-2005, 03:32 PM
can anyone recommend headers for a 63 wagon, using Hedits front clip and a 350 SB.

i want the same: no rubbing, must have clearance for plugs and oil filter

let me know thanks everyone

Greg_R_63
18th-July-2005, 05:45 PM
Some have mentioned S&S headers, http://www.ssheaders.com/muscle.htm

I would give them a call. Also, there's some guy on here called 'The Flyer' :D
He has a Heidt's clip on his 64, ask him what he uses.

the FLYER
18th-July-2005, 06:20 PM
Hey Greg, thanks for the message... i do have a Heidt's clip... but as of yet i'm still undecided on my own header choice.

i have 2-1/2 ramshorns and a set of #2200 Hooker stainless "Shorties"... but so far i'm stuck. my cylinder heads were ported years back and the exhaust port configuration is 1-5/8 Round... so far all the header mfgs i've seen are utilizing an "oval" port configuration that won't seal on my heads... i'm looking at utilizing either an exhaust port flange to adapt my ports to the header ports... or a custom (ouch) set of headers...

i really wanted to use the Thorley Tri-Y's... but regardless of what i use, for the cost of these things... if i need to dimple or dent ANYTHING... i'll NOT be running them.

i think for all the money these guys get designing their products, a hammer should NOT be needed to fit.


there's a thread in suspension forum that is asking for clip part fitment (Headers, Oil Pans etc etc etc) it'd be nice for everyone to post on it for the help of others in the future.


for now, i'm still working my exhaust situation out and i have no answers for anyone... sorry.... thanks for the PM Greg !!!

smoree
18th-July-2005, 08:03 PM
[QUOTE=Greg_R_63]How is this even possible? I am using a mini-starter with the angled bolt pattern. You cannot re-orient nothing. Not being sarcastic, just genuinely curious.

I have the Hitachi mini-starter (not sure of others) and by removing two allen head screws the motor/solenoid assembly can be rotated within the mounting block. I think this is what they meant by re-orienting the starter.

NovatoriusRex
18th-July-2005, 08:13 PM
I have the Hitachi mini-starter (not sure of others) and by removing two allen head screws the motor/solenoid assembly can be rotated within the mounting block. I think this is what they meant by re-orienting the starter.
That's what I had to do with mine. The solenoid is now at the bottom of the starter assembly rather than at the top. This is accomplished by rotating the starter body on the mounting block by removing the two allen head screws theta smoree described.

Because the starter body isn't centered on the block and often not completely round, rotating it on the mounting block can often give you more clearance than the starter manufacturers original mounting position does.

mychevyii20
19th-July-2005, 01:38 AM
[QUOTE=Greg_R_63]How is this even possible? I am using a mini-starter with the angled bolt pattern. You cannot re-orient nothing. Not being sarcastic, just genuinely curious.

I have the Hitachi mini-starter (not sure of others) and by removing two allen head screws the motor/solenoid assembly can be rotated within the mounting block. I think this is what they meant by re-orienting the starter.

Yup, that is it. 6-8 differnt orientations are possible.

Doug_Winslow
19th-July-2005, 02:44 AM
As far as a spark plug wrench, I had a "T" handle universal joint spark plug wrench. Well the thing was such a crappy wrench I broke the u-joint (potmetal) when I was removing plugs from my 194 - six. I threw the socket in my box..... and years latter, I found it to work great in my V-8 Nova with Hedman headers. I just slide the wrench on, and insert a screw driver shaft through the slot on the socket !!! Slow yes.... Effective "Oh Yeah" Doug-OUT

jer66nova
19th-July-2005, 04:21 AM
Thanks Nitroweldon, I will call hooker and Headman today to check pricing and availability Dont like the fender well headers but wan the big tubes and looks like the only ones with the big tubes ar fender well unless you go custom/fabricate them yourself :chev:

63novawagon63
19th-July-2005, 01:56 PM
sorry if this a retarded question but, what are the differences between regular headers and ceramics. I noticed that there is a big price differences as well.

Ceramics have a higher heat tolarance?
let me know thanks

69NovaSS
19th-July-2005, 02:08 PM
sorry if this a retarded question but, what are the differences between regular headers and ceramics. I noticed that there is a big price differences as well.

Ceramics have a higher heat tolarance?
let me know thanks


Ceramic headers are regular headers that have been coated with a ceramic material. It helps the headers last way longer and I have also heard that they help lower the underhood temb a fair bit too. :)

ONEBAD2
19th-July-2005, 02:30 PM
can anyone recommend headers for a 63 wagon, using Hedits front clip and a 350 SB.

i want the same: no rubbing, must have clearance for plugs and oil filter

let me know thanks everyoneI used fenderwell headers, Hooker super comp with my heidts clip. work great if you like fender dumps

nova656567
19th-July-2005, 11:36 PM
Go with the coated headers!! The coating is inside and out, so the headers last indefinately, and the finish will last WAY longer than anything you can apply. Everyone I have sold the coated ones to says coated is the only way to go.

67ChevySedan
20th-July-2005, 03:51 AM
Go with the coated headers!! The coating is inside and out, so the headers last indefinately, and the finish will last WAY longer than anything you can apply. Everyone I have sold the coated ones to says coated is the only way to go.

OKAY!! I'll get the coated .. :D

Greg is correct. The full Hookers would have been better performance-wise. Shorties are a compromise header for fitment issues. Better than stock manifolds - not as good a full headers. There are several full length headers made that will fit your car. Installing them from underneath is no big deal (pretty easy really). I would rather have real headers than the shorties unless there was no other option.

Now can somone get me some pictures!!! I need to know how the full sized Header is routed on the starter side, how close is it to the fuel line and the starter?

PLEASE POST SOME PICTURES!!! :confused:

also what is the difference between a regualar Header and a Fender well header?

FunkyNova66
16th-August-2005, 12:57 AM
Anybody using these with a column shift, glide and dart iron eagle (straight plug) heads on a small block? Says OK with auto but not sure if it meant column shift or floor. I would hate to spend this kind of money only to find out they don't fit.


http://www.dougsheaders.com/online_store/product_detail.cfm?id=194

input appreciated. thanks.
Dave :)

FunkyNova66
16th-August-2005, 01:00 AM
Anybody use these with my set up?
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/headers/header_dsp.d2w/report?prmenbr=361&prr**br=35831&ceramicnum=520-2243-1&cartype=CHEVROLET/GMC+Chevy+II,+Nova&header_type=Super+Competition
How is the quality and fitment? :D

Sorry for probing!
Dave :D

FunkyNova66
17th-August-2005, 11:28 AM
Thanks guys for all the feedback! :rolleyes:

Poopy
17th-August-2005, 01:49 PM
Glad we could help!

:D

NovatoriusRex
17th-August-2005, 01:59 PM
I can't see how ANY solid linkage automatic transmission shift linkage is going to work with ANY under-chassis header on a 1st/2nd gen. With the way the column linkage is routed from the end of the column to the tranmission, there's just no room in there for the linkage to run when that area is stuffed full of header primaries.

You'd probably be safe fabricating the cable linkage setup that Mr. Goble refers to, but it's not going to work with the shift linakge rod in a stock setup.

FunkyNova66
22nd-August-2005, 01:34 AM
I can't see how ANY solid linkage automatic transmission shift linkage is going to work with ANY under-chassis header on a 1st/2nd gen. With the way the column linkage is routed from the end of the column to the tranmission, there's just no room in there for the linkage to run when that area is stuffed full of header primaries.

You'd probably be safe fabricating the cable linkage setup that Mr. Goble refers to, but it's not going to work with the shift linakge rod in a stock setup.
Thanks Rex for the feedback. :) ..this was my worries at first but I have come across some headers that supposedly work with column shift 1st/2nd gen novas. Take a look at these hooker super comps for example. shift.http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/headers/header_dsp.d2w/report?prmenbr=361&prr**br=35831&ceramicnum=520-2243-1&cartype=CHEVROLET/GMC+Chevy+II,+Nova&header_type=Super+Competition

I was hoping I would hear some feedback from some of the column shift 2nd gen owners. :)

jer66nova
22nd-August-2005, 05:45 AM
asked same question a while back when first joining the forum but my car is 4-speed with aftermarket bellhousing will probably go with the hooker super comps, I believe the number is 2234 hate to buy them and have to bang them up with a BMFH to get the clearance needed so they fit right after spending all that money, they are high as giraffe p*&&% :eek:

BOGIE
22nd-August-2005, 10:26 AM
Just a thought........... but....... why don't you e-mail them at Dougs, ask the question and let the manufacturer tell you????? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: If the same headers clear all the 4-gear linkage and oil filler, shouldn't they work with an auto??... Here's their info!! Note the part # D367Y says "will not fit column shift"!! Meanwhile the Part # D366Y does not mention that!! Mine are D366YC....(C is for Ceramic Coated! )
Year Model Part # Codes Tube Dia. Collector Port
Shape
1962-67 283, 307, 327, 350, 400 D367Y Will fit factory "Bow-Tie" angle plug heads
Under the chassis exit
Stick or automatic
Y indicates Tri-Y design
Stock or dart heads
Will not fit column shift
1-5/8" 2-1/2" OVAL
1962-67 283, 307, 327, 350, 400 D366Y Will fit factory "Bow-Tie" angle plug heads
Under the chassis exit
Stick or automatic
Y indicates Tri-Y design
Stock or dart heads
1-5/8" 2-1/2" OVAL


Bogie,...... who's very happy with his Dougs. :D :D

gb66
22nd-August-2005, 02:25 PM
Okay, putting in my 406 soon and need to know what headers
"really fit"....my hookers headers(2122) I had to bang up..
I have a stock front end and exhaust tubes are set up under chassi
and connect near Turbo 350......


Thanks
GARY

rjy
22nd-August-2005, 06:22 PM
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/322000-322999/322850_44_full.jpg If your talking floor shift I believe the Headman Elites will serve your needs. They will not work with colume shift. There a well made header that I heard from others that will stay looking good for a long long time if THC coated.

Paul Wright
23rd-August-2005, 09:34 AM
This is a FAQ.
There are several threads that discuss early Chevy II Nova headers (http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21518):
I should maybe merge them together and put them in Best of Tech.

FunkyNova66
23rd-August-2005, 11:01 AM
I have a column shift glide and am clueless as to which headers I should run.

Anyone have an suggestions? This has been a sore topic for me.


Dave

Paul Wright
23rd-August-2005, 11:09 AM
I have a column shift glide and am clueless as to which headers I should run.

Anyone have an suggestions? This has been a sore topic for me.


Dave

This also has been discussed:Column shift interferance with headers (http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20183)

Search feature

FunkyNova66
23rd-August-2005, 11:11 AM
GOOD NEWS!
FYI-
I called Dougs headers and the D366Y header was designed using a powerglide column shift 1st/2nd Gen Nova!! No clearance problems with these GAURANTEED!

Look..I'm a happy camper---> :D But my wallets not... :o :rolleyes: Can't complain when I know I am getting somethinng I don't need a BFH to make fit.

FunkyNova66
23rd-August-2005, 11:16 AM
This also has been discussed:Column shift interferance with headers (http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20183)

Search feature
Thanks! I missed that thread somehow. FYI- I just called Dougs headers and their D366Y header was desinged specifically for Factory column powerglide 1st/2nd gen Novas. Pricey but well worth it if you want an instant fit. I guess I will be coughing up the $$ for these. Good thing is Bogie swears by them.

Dave

BOGIE
23rd-August-2005, 11:32 AM
Dave........ you gotta stop screaming!! Man I was celebrating something last nite & my head hurts a little this am !! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
By the time the dust settled, and mine were ceramic coated D366YC...... it was app. 800 Cdn !! How much lighter is your wallet?? And remember...... break in that new 406 with another set of "beater" headers as the heat will ruin the coating on the Dougs!! Congrats, you will not be disappointed!! They are a quality piece and did you see that "Pertonix" just bought Dougs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:
Bogie

screamin67
28th-August-2005, 06:46 PM
Have a 67 chevyII smallblock with dart angle plug heads. Just purchased a Heitds frontend, subframe. What hedders are needed for this application? Anybody please.

TheGimp711
28th-August-2005, 08:10 PM
do you mean HEADERS :rolleyes:

FunkyNova66
28th-August-2005, 08:38 PM
do you mean HEADERS :rolleyes:Not if he's looking at Hedman. :D

gobs
29th-August-2005, 01:22 PM
I am also using Dart Heads on my 383. I have the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads, 200cc with .208" intake valves. I am using Doug's Headers and they work great. Part No. D-366Y-C. These are ceramic coated.
Gobs

pete66
7th-November-2005, 12:15 PM
I did some searching and found that headman headers #68160 fit best, but they are only 1 1/2 tubes (i think ). Does anybody make a 1 3/4 header that fits and works as good as the headman? Car is a '66 chevy II, sbc, auto trans. , shifter in floor.. Need some professional advice. Thanks :)

NOGO
7th-November-2005, 02:23 PM
I believe the only header that you can get for a stock front clip that is 1 3/4" is a fenderwell header.

VonSwanko
8th-November-2005, 08:29 AM
I have the hooker 2122...chasiss exit...doesnt work well with a kick out pan...other than that they work well.

Rob

pete66
8th-November-2005, 08:54 AM
Thanks guys. I just saw where the headman elite's were 1 5/8. That sounds better. I just thought 1 1/2 was too small.. Thanks again.

64blue
8th-November-2005, 03:03 PM
Hedman Elites are 1.5" primaries as well. I have the Summit brand (same thing) for sale, as new, 26" length with 3" collector, fitted them on my 64 - 383, took them off as they are not big enough for the 383 and spent the $$ for Hookers 1.75" Will sell these for $70, they have been bead blasted and VHTed.

pete62conv
8th-November-2005, 09:52 PM
I am interested in your headers. VHT? What finish is this? Ceramic? Paint? What gives you the idea that they were too small for your 383. Did it run bad?

Mike Goble
9th-November-2005, 06:13 AM
J&W Nova makes a set of fairly inexpensive headers that fit reasonably well in an early Nova Chassis. Problems with the Hedmans include that the collector is way too large for the primary tubes, and the primary tubes are way too short for most applications. Even the J&W 1-5/8" headers can use longer primaries and a smaller collector. I extend the primaries about 12" and add a 2-1/4" merge collector designed for a Toyota truck engine. We used these headers on our road racing motor with great success.

1963DUCE100
9th-November-2005, 08:32 AM
will JR header fir a stict shift car??? or is it Fenderwells only??

Mike Goble
10th-November-2005, 09:09 AM
Yes, the JR headers will fit a stick shift car, as long as you use a stock z-bar.

Nova67ss
10th-November-2005, 09:37 AM
Mike, I did allmost the same to my hooker chassie headers, I cut the colector of and put on some flowmaster 4-2-1 system that lengthen the primary pipes almost 10".. and paired 2 primarys to 1 scondary pipe before the colector..

Now for another "problem" Ive got round ports in the headers bur square ports in my dart sportsmen heads.. is it possible to "overgap" this irregularity with gaskets only (Ive tried to see the match and it seems possible) or is the ansver to change the header face plate?

Raidah
11th-November-2005, 12:57 AM
i'm in the searching phase for headers, i need some help here. my engine builder says i need 1 3/4, so that rules out Sanderson shorty block huggers which is what i wanted to run, i did not want the spaghetti look but my options are becoming limited, any recomendations? i will be running a 383 with a TKO5spd.

Mike Goble
11th-November-2005, 08:16 AM
If you're set on 1-3/4" primaries and not concerned about the length you could use Hooker chassis headers. I've used the JR 1-5/8" headers with a 2-1/2" merge collector on a 406" SBC in my 67 and my 66. They work very well for a street engine.

Raidah
11th-November-2005, 10:04 AM
If you're set on 1-3/4" primaries and not concerned about the length you could use Hooker chassis headers. I've used the JR 1-5/8" headers with a 2-1/2" merge collector on a 406" SBC in my 67 and my 66. They work very well for a street engine.
would these fit with the stock towers? no front clip, right?
where can i find some?

TechGuy
11th-November-2005, 11:33 AM
If you're set on 1-3/4" primaries and not concerned about the length you could use Hooker chassis headers.

Which ever header you get, make sure it works with the transmission setup
you are running. Example.....the Hooker 2243 is noted for use with Auto trans
only...probably because of the Z-bar .

Repointer
11th-November-2005, 11:36 AM
would these fit with the stock towers? no front clip, right?
where can i find some?

If you're talking about the Hookers. You can get them at Summit. I believe they aroung 400 painted and 650 coated. The number is 2243. :)

Raidah
11th-November-2005, 11:55 AM
If you're talking about the Hookers. You can get them at Summit. I believe they aroung 400 painted and 650 coated. The number is 2243. :)
Tech guy mentioned those are for auto and i need one for a manual, thx anyway. :(

Repointer
11th-November-2005, 12:04 PM
Tech guy mentioned those are for auto and i need one for a manual, thx anyway. :(

Ah..I missed the 5spd part. :o The other ones he's talking about are JR Headers 1 5/8, which is what I have now. You can get them at J&W Nova, but I can't tell ya for sure if they work with your trans. :)

Mike Goble
12th-November-2005, 08:05 AM
would these fit with the stock towers? no front clip, right?
where can i find some?
They are designed for a stock front end and will work with a manual tranny. J&W Nova sells them for about $120.

http://www.novaparts.com/

teddisnoke
13th-November-2005, 11:29 PM
Paul- Do you recall the manufacture for the headers that Mike Goble has been using, I believe them also to be the ones used on the D.D. I'm starting to do some searching on several sets of headers for better fitment with these new Bow-ties. Power and torque numbers were up across the board on dyno day, but we noticed a few issues that I'd like to address before the next dyno sessions, I believe these headers were a 1 5/8ths (?) primary???????? Thanks for any help, and if anyone else can help by chiming in also. Dale

Raidah
13th-November-2005, 11:45 PM
i don't know if this helps or not.

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27703

Pauls72
14th-November-2005, 12:08 AM
Mike has made reference to this site quite a few times.
http://www.headerdesign.com/

Here are are a couple more of his header posts:
http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21518
http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20327

66IISS
14th-November-2005, 01:24 AM
If i'm right and remember correctly, they were JR headers from J & W nova, which you can pick up from www.novaparts.com, real in-expensive headers.

We just put them in our 66 with a 4 speed muncie, 400 SBC and Canfield aluminum heads. Fitment was not easy, it took some time to get everything to fit with some problems on the passenger side frame, and some other issues with clutch linkage.

hope i helped!

Mike Goble
14th-November-2005, 05:26 AM
They're the headers sold by J&W Nova, made by JR headers of Alpharetta, GA. I modify them somewhat for my use by extending the primaries and using a smaller collector. Looks like I'll be building another set for the Son of DD...
The top header in the picture is one off my old 67 and has a 2-1/2" Hooker collector. The bottom header is one that went on the Durango Deuce.

http://members.aol.com/hmficgts/jrlongs.jpg

Repointer
14th-November-2005, 11:10 AM
I have the JR 1 5/8" headers on my 67 now. I just took some pics for another member. Here are a few. If you want some better pics let me know, I'd be happy to get them for you. :)

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/8221/header21kj.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=header21kj.jpg)

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1881/header44ur.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=header44ur.jpg)

teddisnoke
14th-November-2005, 11:41 AM
You guys have actually helped me quite a bit. Upon a meeting back at SEMA, I was informed about these headers from Hedman, that they were an offshoot of Hedman, made in their facility in Georgia.But they would not tell me who sold them, so as to protect the Hedman name(?)Hmmn?

64blue
17th-November-2005, 09:36 AM
Pure <edit>, copy of Hedman's , <edit> flanges Ive every seen, <edit> sealing, fittment is <edit> on 62-65. I'm taking mine to the Mini-Nat's in Kissimee,FL in March and giving them back to J&W. They are advertised to fit 62-65 Novas, we had to bend 2 tubes on Pass. side, cannot get short head bolts in one hole, had to dimple tube by flange, the flanges are IMO very thin and <edit> made. <Edit>

I bit the bullet and got Hooker Super Comps, 1 3/4" moved the torque band up more in the RPM range, and they fit like a glove, PERIOD! $430 vs $100 but well worth the $$$$$

moderators note: no vendor bashing. Some people use the J&W headers as the basis for modifying rather than starting from scratch or buying more expensive.

64 Deuce
383 / 750 Dbl Pump.
TH350 w/3.55 Auburn Posi
Ain't Stock - Ain't Slow

Mike Goble
17th-November-2005, 11:16 AM
I've had 4 sets of the JR headers in various early Novas and have had no fitment problems at all with them. They are not the best made headers, the flanges are thinner than Hookers, but we put them through quite a pounding while we are racing and they've survived very well. We have skid plates attached to the bottom of the headers because we tend to bottom out the car on serious bumps.
I want my torque peak at about 4500 rpm in the road race motor, and find that I need 1-5/8" primaries about 40" long and Hooker doesn't make a set like that. The Hooker 1-5/8" version blocks access to the oil filter if you have a non-Nova block and come with collectors that are too large for my application. I prefer to pay $120 rather than $400 for a set of headers I'm going to cut up and modify anyway. They JR headers also have the short tube in the right place to easily lengthen that tube with a couple of U-bends.
We have no sealing problems with them after I surface the flanges.

teddisnoke
17th-November-2005, 04:17 PM
This is roughly the same boat that I will be in, as I already know I'll have to modify these to properly fit with the dimensions of the new BowTie Vortec big port heads. In this case, I'd rather also have a small outlay of cash in case it does not work out. Since there seems to be a few of us who run these, I'll exert more photo time in the modifications so that others here can get an idea of what needs to be done to better fit the next exhaust port location on these heads.

pete62conv
28th-November-2005, 12:01 AM
I have the Headman 68168 headers. Do I need to run a mini starter with my 168 tooth flywheel? Does anyone know if there is something available that is small enough and can be bought at a local parts store? Part #'s ???

NovatoriusRex
28th-November-2005, 12:09 AM
When mounting the starter with my Hedman 68160s in place, I had to replace the starter I had originally purchased with a mini one with a rotatable mounting block. The full sized starter I had purchased had about 1/8" clearance. With the new one I have about 1". I put a heat blanket around it to protect it further. No problems yet.

Using a mini starter was the only way I could get a starter mounted properly without having it be dangerously close to the primary tubes.

I got mine from Summit, but I would imagine that a decent parts house would be able to get you a mini starter easily.

mychevyii20
29th-November-2005, 07:54 PM
Summit Mini starter here also with my Headmans on the 66. It was cheaper than many of the new, smaller starters. It can be positioned at many angles on the mounting block. It is rotated so the "motor" is pointing to the ground and a little at the oil pan.

If a performance engine, the extra torque on the mini starter is very helpful starting a warm engine.

pete62conv
29th-November-2005, 09:16 PM
OK found one. Believe it or not I found one at Auto Zone. Part # 25008. It was $130 but is lifetime warranty. Fits 153 or 168 flywheel. Sopposed to have double the torque and has a trick solenoid to withstand the heat. Thanks guys. Pete

1chevelle
2nd-January-2006, 09:49 PM
I am doing a TCI subframe swap on my 67. Can anyone tell me what headers will fit with this setup.

Thanks

Don

Tom Griffin
2nd-January-2006, 10:03 PM
Most block hugger headers will work. Below is a link to TCI's headers for the Nova
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/productdet.cfm?prodID=226

Hooker also makes a 1 3/4" under chassis header that will work with some tweaking.

I am using the TCI headers.
Tg

Lake 64est Park
7th-February-2006, 02:24 AM
Hey all,
I have a 64, auto with colum shift. I bought a pair of Hedmans 68160. Looks like once again I got a wrong part. Am I able to smack my headers, dent em to make it work. Im new at this stuff so Im not sure how much I can er.. modify...my driver side header.

Thanks
Dave

backyardmekanik
12th-February-2006, 02:15 PM
:chev: im plannin on throwing on a heidts front clip on my 66, i have on the hooker super comp headers part#2243. would i be able to use those or would i need custom headers?

671967
12th-February-2006, 07:00 PM
i have a superide II front clip and was wanting to know if someone could tell me the part number to hedman headers with full lenght.this is a 67 sedan with a 350 / 350 auto.i am just about to put the motor in can you put these in after the motor thanks

jeffwall67
19th-February-2006, 07:10 PM
i need help guys . what headers will fit my 67 automatic, power steering column shift
i would like coated under chassis thanks

67 supersport
19th-February-2006, 09:38 PM
anyone using hooker headers on a 66-67 looking to see what part# to use on an automatic

Mike Goble
19th-February-2006, 11:15 PM
i need help guys . what headers will fit my 67 automatic, power steering column shift
i would like coated under chassis thanks

I don't think there are any headers that will work with a stock column shifter other than some of the shortys. I used J&W's but I also modified my column shifter to work with them.

Paul Wright
20th-February-2006, 08:54 AM
I merged these two together since they are similar. I thought we had all this covered in Best of Tech.
Does anybody have a list of all the early Nova header part numbers? We should make a chart for this FAQ.

Greg_R_63
20th-February-2006, 01:32 PM
I merged these two together since they are similar. I thought we had all this covered in Best of Tech.
Does anybody have a list of all the early Nova header part numbers? We should make a chart for this FAQ.

Here you go. I made a table of 1st gen compatible small block headers. It's not complete yet, but it's a good start:

http://www.nocturnaloner.net/Nova/earlynovaheaders.htm

PM me with changes or updates. I'll add big block and non-stock clip info later.

-edit-
As of today, 2/25/06, I have every first gen header I could find. There are about 20 different designs in total. I now have a table for big block headers, as well as those that are known to work with TCI/Heidts front clips. I also have a table for column shift linkage kits. Once again, any additional info or pictures of installed headers are greatly appreciated.

Tom Griffin
20th-February-2006, 02:07 PM
You can add Hooker 2122 super comps
Tg

Greg_R_63
20th-February-2006, 02:48 PM
You can add Hooker 2122 super comps
Tg

Done, thanks.

RED67
20th-February-2006, 06:34 PM
When my first '67 Nova was a street car I had a set of the small under chassis Hedmans,,but when I began racing it in about 1973 I put on a set of 1 7/8" X 3 1/2" fender well headers made by a company called KUSTOM.I did a search,,didn't find them.

I have a few "under hood" shots of the car with these.(can e-mail them to someone if you guys want to post them)

Had to put on a '66 master cylinder so they'd clear.They bolted right to the heads,,no adaptor plates,,the pipes where "dimpled" at the bolts.With the,new at the time,angle plug heads changing the plugs was a real treat,,as was keeping the flange bolts tight.:D

Best,WP

IIslow
20th-February-2006, 06:52 PM
i had a set of headers by ed and they fit just fine. but these headers are every expensive 1200.00 and they are true equal length. <user agreement edit>

John65ss
22nd-February-2006, 04:15 PM
Hey... that header comparison site is COOL! :cool:

Anyone using hedmans with a stick and a lakewood bell??

Greg_R_63
25th-February-2006, 10:47 PM
Hey... that header comparison site is COOL! :cool:



Thanks! Been a long time coming.

the FLYER
25th-February-2006, 11:20 PM
Greg's header page has been added to the Library too in case you guys wanna look... under "Conversions & Upgrades" :D :D :D

excellent job Greg :)


Arrrrrrgh !!! :D :D :D

63-ChevyII
23rd-March-2006, 07:07 AM
Ok Guys, I received my Hedman 68166 headers. They are the same as the 68160 mentioned above but the 68166 is ceramic coated. 3 new questions that I don't see asked on this thread.
#1 Does anyone have a part number and or manufacture name that makes a chrome alternator bracket for remounting after removing the stock exhaust manifolds? Hedman offers one, I included a link below, anyone use use one or find a chrome one?

http://www.hedman.com/pages/hedmanmain.html

#2 Did you use the gaskets that came with the headers? Or should I buy copper ones?
#3 Did you use the bolts that came with the headers? I planned on buying chrome Allen head bolts.
Thanks for all the good info so far, 63-ChevyII, Mike

low81ryder
10th-May-2006, 10:16 PM
Building a 63 2 door sedan. Putting a L98 TPi engine with 200 R4 trans. Wondering what headers would fit the best? Thanks

ibuildm
10th-May-2006, 11:51 PM
Building a 63 2 door sedan. Putting a L98 TPi engine with 200 R4 trans. Wondering what headers would fit the best? Thanks

TCI sells a beautiful set of full lenght headers for your car. They have 1 3/4" tubes and are totally tig welded together. PM me and I will quote you the price for coated or uncoated.
Tim

Mike Goble
11th-May-2006, 12:08 AM
For an L98 motor some Hedman 1-1/2" primaries extended to 44" long with a 2" or 2-1/4" collector would work very well. The Hedman primaries fit pretty well in the early Nova chassis. 1-3/4" primaries on a 245 hp motor would be a 2 tube size error, to paraphrase Ed Henniman.

Phil
18th-May-2006, 10:44 PM
JR headers in 67 with 4 speed, lakewood. I had them coated
see here for pics http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/album?.dir=84ab&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/my_photos

low81ryder
30th-May-2006, 11:57 PM
I recently purchased a set of Hedman Elites for my 63 duece. Part #68168. I also looked at the ceramic coated ones part #68166. Noticed big price diff. the Elites have 3/8" thick flanges and heavy gauge tube metal. Both have 1 1/2 primarys with 3 collectors. How ever the price diff was crazy. Elites were $264.00 other was $385.00. Made me think why the ceramic was higher. They have only 1/4" flanges and lighter gauge metal on tubes. So i called HEDMAN. They said no diff in coatings. Only diff is the #68166 is polished and that is why they cost more because of the man hours to polish them. CRAZY!!!!!!

chevynuts88
10th-June-2006, 08:53 AM
My hedman headers #68168 should be in next week.Its only been 7 years to have a set as they are the last thing I really need[can hardly wait].I have the " Bills II" rack and pinion setup so I shouldn,t have any steering box fitment problems right? Do I put them in from the top or bottom [or both]? It,ll be fun driving to get the street hookups welded at the muffler shop. hehe

mychevyii20
10th-June-2006, 10:46 AM
Your clearence may change things. On my stock suspension, driver side from the bottom, Passenger from the top or bottom.

Bill's II
12th-June-2006, 12:11 AM
Hey Now. With the oil filter off, Hedmans should install from the top or bottom on right or left side. NOTE With the "Z" bar and oil filter removed. I personally would install drivers side and passenger side from the bottom. Less chance of scratching fenders and shock towers, place a thin blanket over shock towers and install the headers. A Second pair of hands is really a good idea to help guide from the top or bottom. Respectfully, "Bill's" II ;)

NovatoriusRex
12th-June-2006, 01:39 AM
When installing my Hedman 68160 headers, I had to drop the starter on the passenger side and install that one from the top->down. The drivers side needed to be installed from the bottom->up.

They do slide in pretty easily as long as you dont expect them both to go in the same way. :rolleyes:

BLOWN-DEUCE
13th-June-2006, 12:54 AM
Hey guys can anyone point me in the right direction for a good set of headers for my 66,i am running a blown small block with a heidts front suspention and the car is in the building stage and i want to make the right header choice the first time,any suggestions?

BLOWN-DEUCE
13th-June-2006, 01:15 AM
I would like a full length header with the primary tubes in the 1-7/8 range and im not real haapy with the apearance of a fenderwell header,if some info would help anyone im building a 383 c.i. sbc with a 177 c.i. weiand blower,dart iron eagle heads{about 76cc's} with extensive bowl work and porting and 230 cc intake runners-valves are 2.08-1.650,JE dish top severe duty pistons,Eagle crank,Crower Rods,750 holley,Shaft rockers,Solid Roller{undecided as of yet}couple to choose from for my application,Block is factory "66" 327 block-splayed caps,G.M. front and rear billet caps,studded on bottom and top.i know all this info is not totally necessary but i enjoy chattin about it so there it is,hope it helps.

415 nova
13th-June-2006, 01:56 AM
Im building the same set up with heidts, stroked 383 with the holley 144 blower, 700 r4, ford 9in. 373 moser,richmond,auborn. Tubbed with 305 50 15 torquethrust 2's. Powder coated the heidts, thinking about coating the inner fender wells and the radiator support. I bought s&s full lenght headers, recommended by several guys here. Coated and delivered for about $495.00. http://www.sachserodshop.com/pdf/89.pdf
Im installing air ride suspension. I need front seats and all interior. Bought a 67 ss rear seat off ebay from a east coast builder that the original buyer flaked on paying for it. I contacted him after the auction I said i was bummed i missed it. He replied the bidder was flaking out and if i was interested in it I could have it for what it sold for, it looks like brand new. Good luck!!! Mark

BLOWN-DEUCE
13th-June-2006, 08:49 PM
hi,
thanks for the info!!!!!!!! i was begining to think that nobody wanted to chat with the new noob on the block so thanks alot for all your help,if anyone else would like to drop me some input on this is would be greatly apreciated,thanks.

63SSNOS
13th-June-2006, 09:53 PM
I run 1 3/4 Hooker Super Comps on mine, only the oil filter is restricted, everything else is a easy fit. They sent me fenderwell headers by mistake when I ordered mine, I looked em over for a long time thinking of using the fenderwells but I just didn't think my engine bay was suited for em so I returned them for the right set.

chevynuts88
23rd-June-2006, 09:40 AM
Well so far its been 5 weeks waiting for my headers to arrive . I called and three more weeks!! I,ll have to go to Good Guys in Columbus with regular manifolds..oh well.

PBR
23rd-June-2006, 09:53 AM
I'm in the same boat except the motor is not in the car.

Mike Goble
23rd-June-2006, 09:55 AM
Well so far its been 5 weeks waiting for my headers to arrive . I called and three more weeks!! I,ll have to go to Good Guys in Columbus with regular manifolds..oh well.

Who did you order them from?

chevynuts88
23rd-June-2006, 10:10 AM
Marken Performance.Kitchener

bigreds1963ss
3rd-July-2006, 04:46 PM
i am at the point now to where i need a set of headers, i cant afford the 600.00 for the tci or ss ones, anyone else know where i can get a nice set of headers coated for under 400.00 for my tci clip and a small block, thanks

the FLYER
3rd-July-2006, 05:05 PM
i've a Heidt's clip... from what i've read here, there's lotsa headers that fit... with a BFH. i'm surely not spending 4-600.00 bucks ta have ta hammer 'em ta fit properly. my own thoughts would be, if ya can afford the 400.00 headers... save a couple hunnerd more and get the set with the Guarantee fit (no hammering)


spend the 400 and find yer not happy only ta lose yer butt tryin' ta unload 'em ta get a Second set with no mods costs too much fer me... i'll save and get the best set the first time.

Greg_R_63 put a thread together for headers/clips... seach his posts and check it out... might help ya some ;)


i wish ya the best :D

simmondj
3rd-July-2006, 08:02 PM
I bought a pair of ceramic coated shorty headers off of Ebay a year ago. Paid 250.00 for them. Can't remember the seller, but I do know that the headers looked great a year later and a trip across Canada.

Shane65
3rd-July-2006, 08:56 PM
I bought a set of Hedmen elite headers for my 64. Application is 62-67 Nova. They fit but they were too small for the 421 stroker I decided to put in. They only have 1 1/2 primaries which would have choked up my engine however on a 350 that is mostly stock they should be OK. Summit racing has them for a reasonable price($260 range coated)

bigreds1963ss
9th-July-2006, 12:48 PM
Well ive been looking through all the past threads and i really need to get a set of headers by the weekend so i can get my car on the road but i am limited on my budget, i have heard all kinds of things about headers from headman to hooker super comp etc, if yopu have a aftermarket clip on your 1st gen car what headers are you using besides the expensive ones, thanks

bigreds1963ss
9th-July-2006, 11:17 PM
i need some headers asap and i can only afford around 300 for a set of headers , which ones can i use for my clip besides s&s and the tci ones

65deuce
10th-July-2006, 07:48 AM
The hedman elites fit well in my TCI clip they are # 68168 for small block applications. $264.00 from Summit (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D68168&N=115&autoview=sku). They fit my car nicely TCI with a 32" Ididit column, and they are ceramic coated for under 300.00.

1chevelle
10th-July-2006, 09:17 AM
If you have D port heads like the ZZ4 the Hedmans and Holley will not work.

bigreds1963ss
10th-July-2006, 11:17 PM
i have a 1978 350 small block that has been built up a little nothing major, my biggest concern is i have a stock column and i ysed the heidts steering kit and my old block huggers hit the steering shaft so i didnt want to get a set of headers that were gonna hit the steering shaft

chevynuts88
12th-July-2006, 10:23 AM
After over six weeks of waiting I finally got my hedman hedders.I was sure they weren,t going to fit on drivers side,but I was wrong.They fit great ! I thought the z bar was going to be a terrible problem getting in ,but to my surprise less than a couple of minutes. While driving it [headers open] to get the street hookups welded I totally scared the **** out of two women walking down the sidewalk. I loved it!

the FLYER
12th-July-2006, 11:09 AM
C'Mon !!! doncha knoiw us guys need VISUAL AIDS ??? :eek:


how's 'bout some pics ??? ;)

:D :D :D

jcs
12th-July-2006, 11:24 AM
Glad you had no problem. I had a hard time with getting the Z-bar back in the bracket under the steering linkage. If you did it by yourself, I don't know how. I had to have two sets of hands to put both in at the same time. Good job and enjoy.

chevynuts88
12th-July-2006, 02:43 PM
I could not do this myself! I had help. I took the zbar off the bracket that mounts to the block and reinstalled it after getting it through the headers.

Dan_Lebherz
29th-July-2006, 11:10 PM
I can get a set of JR Headers for the Wagon that are supposed to be full length, 1 5/8 primary and 3" collectors delivery for about $150. they are painted. The Model number is #7208, but I cannot find any additional information out about them. Are these still in production? Is Jr still in business?

DriveWFO
29th-July-2006, 11:19 PM
I found a site in Google where they said they had headers fabbed up for a Pontiac at JR Headers in Ferndale, MI. Maybe try some online yellow pages?

Dan_Lebherz
29th-July-2006, 11:44 PM
I found the link in best of tech. the guy on e-bay was saying the Jr headers sell for over $200. J&W Nova has them for $119. Glad I double checked.

novaboy009
29th-July-2006, 11:45 PM
What kind of headers were you running before dan? How's ohio treating you? Ready to move back to Stiller country soon?

Kev

Dan_Lebherz
29th-July-2006, 11:56 PM
No, I won't be moving back anytime soon. I have to work at least 10 more years so I'd just prefer to not start over at this point.

Car has been running OK 'cept for the heat. Been to the track a fair amount but not the last 2 weeks. I made it to the quarter finals in early June, but nothing to speak of since. I win some I lose most.

Running mostly 13'1s in the heat. Haven't done anything but adjust the valves and change the oil in at least 2 years. 60' times have been off since the heat cranked up. Ran a 12.98 on a 2.02 60 foot time a couple weeks back.

Finally found someone to look at the trans but I may just wait until the end of the season now.

Dan_Lebherz
29th-July-2006, 11:57 PM
No, I won't be moving back anytime soon. I have to work at least 10 more years so I'd just prefer to not start over at this point.

Car has been running OK 'cept for the heat. Been to the track a fair amount but not the last 2 weeks. I made it to the quarter finals in early June, but nothing to speak of since. I win some I lose most.

Running mostly 13'1s in the heat. Haven't done anything but adjust the valves and change the oil in at least 2 years. 60' times have been off since the heat cranked up. Ran a 12.98 on a 2.02 60 foot time a couple weeks back, though.

Oddly, the wagon still seems to attract some interest.

Finally found someone to look at the trans but I may just wait until the end of the season now.

Phil
30th-July-2006, 08:39 AM
Unless they have changed location JR headers are out of Atlanta. I had to do some chasis trimming for them to fit.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/detail?.dir=84ab&.dnm=316c.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/detail?.dir=84ab&.dnm=e56e.jpg&.src=ph

Dan_Lebherz
30th-July-2006, 10:23 AM
Phil,
Thanks for posting those photos. They gave me a good idea of what to expect. If I understood correctly, you had to make essentially the same modification on both sides, making a contour on the brace. You chose to modify the brace rather than the headers. Did you have to make any other changes? After the mod, will they install with the engine in the car?
Final question, would you use them again if you were doing it over?

Phil
30th-July-2006, 01:02 PM
Dan, refer to the pics below and as you can see I made a different mod on the passenger side. On the drivers I only had to bend(done carefully with a ball peen) the edge over to clear the header. On the passenger side I trimed the chasis. I also routed the brakeline from the rear bakes up behind the mount on the firewall. These headers give good clearance from the stock starter. The Hookers donot and have to use a small oil filter. From the pics you can notice the clearances from the chasis, belhousing and engine.
I prefered not to cut and modify the headers. The JR headers have since been tweeked by the factory were they will fit without cutting the passenger side. I recieved some feed back on this when others bought the later manf JR headers. They had to do little to no mods.
The headers can be installed after the engine is installed, BUT you will have to either raise one side of the engine and or put the car up high on jack stands.
I made several passes in and out of the engine bay with the engine and headers mapping out any mods that needed to be done before the final install. Any triming was done methodically taking only what was needed. After all fit-up and triming was completed and the headers mounted on engine in the car, I then removed the headers and had them coated.
Yes, I would use them again. I have seen the Sanderson headers installed and they seem to be a selection that I would prefer also, but the primaries are short. Good for the street and show
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/album?.dir=84ab&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/plsmswain/my_photos

John65ss
30th-July-2006, 04:22 PM
I was looking at the fit of 1st/2nd gen headers when at the Nova nats. There were cars there with Sanderson, Hedman, JR, Hooker, and Dougs headers. IMO, the dougs looked to have the nicest fit, and they also looked to be the best quality.... expensive though!

JRs had a thin flange, and it seems a lot of guys crushed the tube on the pass side rather than trim as Phil did. Every car with JR headers looked like it had a clearance problem where Phil notched his brace on the pass side. Seemed like everyone had to address it one way or another.

Hedmans provided a decent fit, but you know all about those already...

Sandersons did not really impress me. Looked like they left little room to get at plugs, and I think it would be tough to get a set of headpipes made.

Hookers (1-5/8) looked like a very nice fit, BUT it looks like they'd leave little room for an oil filter with a non-nova block. The car I saw with hookers had a Nova block, and they fit great. I think that you'd definitely need the PF454 (old PF25) filter with a 350.

Anyway... these are just my observations. I have an OLD set of hedmans on my car now, and was looking at other headers to get a good idea of what is out there when I replace mine.

Honestly, (taking performance out of the picture) Hedman elites seem like the best value @ ~$260 coated, and they have a pretty decent fit. If I wanted the best fit, I'd be looking at Dougs.

If you need a 4-tube 1.625" header, Hookers also seem great with a Nova block, but may block filter access on a non-nova block. JRs were OK, but I think you WILL need firewall trimming, and the flanges seem very thin. Considering Price and fit, I'd get JR headers before Hookers!

Personally, I don't think I'd consider Sandersons.

Phil
30th-July-2006, 04:56 PM
Good observation John. We ran inputs from most here on the site a few years ago and basically came up with what you observed. However, the JR's are 1- 5/8" headers and I have had no problem with the flange thickness issue. I believe Mike G who runs his duece in off road racing has had no problems with the flange in which I'm aware of. The response I had in couple of years ago was JR had change the header design and they fit better. The Hooker chasis headers needed the smaller oil filter. and other headers...etc.
I opted for the 1 5/8" primaries and considered the lower cost and wha la did what I thought would be the better performance for the buck. Others may disagree. I have seen with "any" header brand that often the same design header fit a bit differently from one duece to another. As politicians like to say, "the fact of the matter is" you probably can expect to tweek most any header installation. Preliminary fit-up is a good idea for any installation and the end results should pay off if time is taken to find what needs to done before installing the headers. Some just bang the header flat rather than go to the extent of making clearance for the header...Phil

John65ss
5th-October-2006, 11:34 AM
DAN: Did you ever get your JR headers? Just wondering if the fit issues have been resolved on the newer production lots (Phil heard that they may fit better now).

Ducedad
31st-October-2006, 07:18 AM
I'm putting a GM zz383 with Fastburn (Vortec style -D Port ) heads in my 67 coupe. Does anyone make headers for this application? I've contacted / looked thru several header manufacturers / catalogs, and all I keep hearing is NO , NO ! :mad: HELP !!!!!!! Suggestions???????
PLEASE!!!!!

Mike Goble
31st-October-2006, 07:51 AM
We used the J&W Nova header primaries on some D-port AFR heads and they worked just fine.

John65ss
31st-October-2006, 09:07 AM
A member here with a white-on-red '66 had dougs 367y headers on his fast burn heads. I saw the car at the nnn nats, and NJ mini-nats, and they were a perfect fit.

MY67
31st-October-2006, 10:52 AM
i have a 383/425 crate motor i purchased from chevy and installed hooker headers.i have the fasturn hads on that motor.

MY67
31st-October-2006, 10:55 AM
i have a 383/425 crate motor i purchased from chevy and installed hooker headers.i have the fastburn heads on that motor.




http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p65/MY67/3832.jpg

MY67
31st-October-2006, 10:57 AM
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p65/MY67/3833.jpg

Ducedad
31st-October-2006, 12:29 PM
Wowsa , maybe there's a lite at the end of the tunnel !

MY 67 - I have a stock front clip . What Hooker part number did you use? Do you know if these work with a stock front clip?

John65SS - Sounds like my best shot to date.

Mike Goble - I wished you lived next door! When you say " header primaries " , do you mean the flange + stubs hanging off and created the rest of your header assembly , ( including collector) ?

Thank you all for replying , looking forward to anything else you can offer.

Mike Goble
31st-October-2006, 12:43 PM
Mike Goble - I wished you lived next door! When you say " header primaries " , do you mean the flange + stubs hanging off and created the rest of your header assembly , ( including collector) ?

Not just the stubs but the whole primary tube. The collectors on the 1-5/8" headers are too large. I extended the primaries about 12" and added a 2-1/4" merge collector.

http://home.comcast.net/~onovakind67/jrlongs.jpg

John65ss
31st-October-2006, 02:21 PM
Ducedad... here is the original post about dougs and fastburn heads:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36055&highlight=dougs+headers

I saw the car, and would agree that they fit well and are a well-made part.

MY67
31st-October-2006, 05:30 PM
Ducedad,
I am using Hooker part#2243. I choose to use their HPC coating to protect the header from heat and that part# is 2243-1.These were recommended to me by Wayne at NNN.:chev:

Ducedad
31st-October-2006, 06:20 PM
MY67 - Your engine looks great. I'd be very happy if my ZZ looked like that. What carb/intake did you use? I'll check out the Hooker set you recommended.

Thank you guys again! This info will make my choices easier.

teddisnoke
31st-October-2006, 07:19 PM
Be careful of the GM fastburn and Bow-tie Vortecs- they have the exhaust port flange moved out .250 in relation to other GM and aftermarket heads. This was engineered into their D-port style. But it affects header fitment quite a bit. When we ran the Bow-tie Vortec article a few month's back, that was one of the sidebar's that was unfortunately left out due to space in the article. It threw a huge wrench in our gears, and we could not get headers that fit just fine before to fit in an already tight '66 Nova engine compartment with a stock front clip with these new heads. Fastburn design has the same port configuration as Bow-Tie Vortecs. You will have these same problems regardless of what header you run with these particular heads. We tried to talk with alot of header manufacturer's last year at SEMA, explaining the problem we were having, and thay all told us it was not worth the effort to make a change for one particular style of cylinder head.:mad: So- we pie-cut our existing set to continue on with the article. I cannot imagine we were the only ones to experiance this,as not everyone is switching over to new front clips. What got me mad was nowhere in any of GM's nomenclature does it even say these heads are in any way different in external measurements to any other GM small block head. Surprise. I feel that in most other GM cars there would never even be a fitment problem, but with our little Nova's, a quarter-inch makes a BIG difference.

Dale

MY67
31st-October-2006, 08:02 PM
Ducedad,
I am using a Holley Street Advenger carb. 770CFM and a durashine Edlebrock manifold (AIRGAP).

John65ss
1st-November-2006, 08:36 AM
Someone should merge this into the big "header thread".

Dale... you still using the Hedmans with 1.5" primaries and 3" collectors on your 406?

Ducedad
1st-November-2006, 08:55 AM
A member here with a white-on-red '66 had dougs 367y headers on his fast burn heads. I saw the car at the nnn nats, and NJ mini-nats, and they were a perfect fit.

JOHN65SS - Do you remember if the white-on-red 66 that used the 367Y Doug's headers had a stock front clip?

MY67
1st-November-2006, 11:24 AM
Ducedad,
Call Hooker,you can get their # from summit.They have their tech line that will advise you on their headers. If I am not mistaken the headers I will be running will fit the stock clip. They were revamped because their were problems with headers blocking the oil filters on the eariler novas.You will need something with 1 3/4 primaries on those heads.

teddisnoke
1st-November-2006, 11:56 AM
I still run the 1 1/2" primaries. I'm going to try an adapted set of JandW's, maybe 1 5/8th's will help it breath a little deeper.

John65ss
1st-November-2006, 03:16 PM
Dale: When you get the J&W headers, I'd LOVE to hear your opinion of overall quality, flange construction, fit, etc. Goble and Phil have posted lots of great info on these headers, but one more opinion never hurts! ;)

Ducedad
1st-November-2006, 03:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by John65ss
A member here with a white-on-red '66 had dougs 367y headers on his fast burn heads. I saw the car at the nnn nats, and NJ mini-nats, and they were a perfect fit.


JOHN65SS - Do you remember if the white-on-red 66 that used the 367Y Doug's headers had a stock front clip?

teddisnoke
2nd-November-2006, 12:20 AM
I actually already have them. I've done some grinding and cutting to better open up the primary openings to better accommodate the D-port heads. I think they are a good header for the price. It's funny how I found out who made or who actually is behind J&W. When I talked with the director of Research and developement for Hedman, he would not tell me the name of a "little" red-headed stepchild company they owned down in Georgia that made a header that might fit. It made me mad he would not divulge them. Here I was, trying to better enlighten these guys to issues with fitment. It was members on this site who helped me connect the dots to realize who J&W was! So- I'll get cracking on these and try and have them up and on soon. We'll have a good back to back number of what bigger tubes will do on a chassis dyno and the track with the stack of timeslips and numbers I've already acquired.

John65ss
2nd-November-2006, 08:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by John65ss
A member here with a white-on-red '66 had dougs 367y headers on his fast burn heads. I saw the car at the nnn nats, and NJ mini-nats, and they were a perfect fit.


JOHN65SS - Do you remember if the white-on-red 66 that used the 367Y Doug's headers had a stock front clip?


Yes. Stock clip with airbags. One of the Delaware Valley NNN guys on this board could probably get you in touch with the owner to answer all your questions.

John65ss
2nd-November-2006, 08:32 AM
Dale... how do they compare to the 68160 Hedmans (quality wise)? I am happy with the Hedman headers, so if they are at least as good, they are fine for me!

Did you encounter the same fit issues Phil has documented back by the firewall brace on the pass side? Thanks!

Brucelee41042
14th-November-2006, 11:43 AM
Ok so i've finally read through this entire thing.

Question. I know some of the off- brand, ebay type shorty headers may or may not fit the stock clip, column shift. So has anyone had any luck with these? I really don't want to spend 225 bucks on a pair of shorties (sanderson). I've seen some on ebay/summit for 80 or so bucks. Most shorties look the same to me, with the wide Y type configuration. Maybe certain shapes/sizes will fit.

I've also seen the linkage kits you can buy to help adapt. Any feedback, pics, advice on this linkage kits?

1967 Nova L-79
26th-January-2007, 07:38 PM
HELLO TO ALL

I AM GOING TO INSTALL A NOVA BLOCK IN MY CAR, IS THERE A COMPANY THAT MAKES FULL UNDER CHASSIS STAINLESS HEADERS WITH NO FITTING ISSUES, I DONT WANT TO HAVE RUST DOWN THE ROAD.:beer: :beer:

Chori
12th-February-2007, 02:28 AM
HELLO TO ALL

I AM GOING TO INSTALL A NOVA BLOCK IN MY CAR, IS THERE A COMPANY THAT MAKES FULL UNDER CHASSIS STAINLESS HEADERS WITH NO FITTING ISSUES, I DONT WANT TO HAVE RUST DOWN THE ROAD.:beer: :beer:

check this link out http://www.nocturnaloner.net/Nova/earlynovaheaders.htm

Greg_R_63
21st-February-2007, 07:18 AM
check this link out http://www.nocturnaloner.net/Nova/earlynovaheaders.htm


Wow, whoever put that together must've had way too much time on their hands. :rolleyes: The prices are out of date, and it seems to link back to this very thread quite a bit...

misterjj
19th-March-2007, 12:31 PM
Has anyone worked with S&S Headers? I tried calling their line but no one is picking up. Any clue if they're still in business or not?

shortbus57
30th-March-2007, 12:25 AM
What is the best under chassis BBC chevy II header?? I have a 67 with heidts superride, bbc and glide. Will the chassis works headers work with the heidts, just wondering cause the front clips look like the same measurements, but I dont know cause I havent measured them.. Any help would be greatly appreciated:cool:

deuceman
4th-April-2007, 02:57 PM
When mounting the starter with my Hedman 68160s in place, I had to replace the starter I had originally purchased with a mini one with a rotatable mounting block. The full sized starter I had purchased had about 1/8" clearance. With the new one I have about 1". I put a heat blanket around it to protect it further. No problems yet.

Using a mini starter was the only way I could get a starter mounted properly without having it be dangerously close to the primary tubes.

I got mine from Summit, but I would imagine that a decent parts house would be able to get you a mini starter easily.

Mini starters on ebay for about 75.00. I paid 160.00 for mine from the engine builder and I'm pretty sure it's the same one on ebay for 75.00. for that price you can get two and have enough left over for a couple a beers

Bob Barker
1st-August-2007, 02:00 AM
Has anyone used these? If so how was the fitment, starter clearence, etc?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BIG%2D11110FLT&N=700+4294918680+4294908216+4294907681+4294924454+ 115&autoview=sku

the FLYER
10th-August-2007, 07:06 PM
Hey Guys,

has anyone installed a set of these style Block huggers on a 1st Genner stock clip (P/Glide/floor shift)

i've read this thread and i don't think it's been made clear if they'll fit or not... maybe i missed it ???


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/RamHooker.jpg

Bob Barker
1st-September-2007, 01:57 AM
So went ahead and got the 68160s any issues I should be aware of? Also the gaskets that came with it are 2 piece?

Marcus
20th-January-2008, 02:34 PM
After hearing that lots of people buy headers specifically made for Chevy II and have fitment issues, I decided to go the cheap route and ordered a pair of Jeg's headers for Chevy II, p/n 555-30052. The passenger side fits fine with my mini-starter, but on the driver's side I've got major interference at the steering box. How much can I ding one of the tubes before I've gone too far? I feel like I've beaten it to about 60% of it's original area, and I'm not done yet.:mad:

Bat 21
4th-March-2008, 11:45 PM
Those are cool looking headers. Never heard of Sanderson before this. This site rocks!

Shane65
5th-March-2008, 12:03 AM
I'm on my 3rd set of headers for the 64 I'm building and it hasn't even left the garage. I have a TCI front clip and originally bought the Hedman Elites (68168). Tucked up nice but decided to put in a 421 stroker and the primaries would be small at 1 1/2". Sold them and bought TCI's headers(1 3/4") but because I've modified my A arms to drop the car lower then normal with air ride, they interfer with the ground by around 1". My crossmember it 5/8" off the ground when dropped. Sold them and bought Doug's headers(1 5/8"). They tuck up very nicely and fit the 700r transmission. I don't have the steering shaft on but didn't see an issue with any set of headers.
So there's 3 sets of headers that will work with the TCI clip.

duckman
12th-March-2008, 09:06 PM
looking for set of headers for '64 nova w/'67-327ci- 350th-floor shift. has anyone put on a set and what problems encountered. does the # of teeth on flywheel matter? summit recommended flowtech
big11110flt. not a real nova nut just yet. hopefully i'll learn a lot just from being on this site. great place to spend my idle time. hopefully i'll have this thing ready for the cruisin' season. also going to have a cpp tubular control arm kit installed along with a tune-up. all info is greatly appreciated.

Greg_R_63
12th-March-2008, 09:29 PM
There are simply no guarantees for fitment with aftermarket headers on these cars. Dougs headers have very few complaints. The Sanderson shorties are a good bet, but in terms of performance, don't have much over manifolds. All of the less expensive full length headers are hit and miss, with 'most' people having to ding them for one reason or another. Just like wheel fitment, you are going to have to get it on your car to know for sure.

Dan_Lebherz
13th-March-2008, 05:47 PM
I've got the inexpensive Hedmans. They were about $89 for the set 7 years ago. Probably not the best for performance but hard to beat for the price. I'm sure they cost more now. By the price I'm sure you can tell they are not coated.

duckman
13th-March-2008, 09:40 PM
do you remember the part #? was it the hed 68160?

Greg_R_63
18th-January-2009, 02:38 PM
I have some pictures of the Doug's d367-y installed in my 63:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showpost.php?p=983856&postcount=16

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showpost.php?p=996032&postcount=18

Notch Johnson
25th-January-2009, 07:56 PM
Read this thread, good info, but could not find an answer to the following combo....

64 Nova w/ Heidts front subframe running a BBC - besides the Chassis Works & S&S brand headers possibly working is there anything else that works?

Anyone try Chassis Work or S&S with a Heidts subframe? I called Heidts thinking they would know something but got "call Lemons" - nope to much for me.lol

Greg_R_63
25th-January-2009, 08:19 PM
Read this thread, good info, but could not find an answer to the following combo....

64 Nova w/ Heidts front subframe running a BBC - besides the Chassis Works & S&S brand headers possibly working is there anything else that works?

Anyone try Chassis Work or S&S with a Heidts subframe? I called Heidts thinking they would know something but got "call Lemons" - nope to much for me.lol

I did a Google search for you, and the consensus seemd to be Hooker fenderwell headers, unless you are running drop spindles. Hit these threads and start sending PMs until you get a part number. Also check the ones I linked on my headers page:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60065

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=778704

Notch Johnson
25th-January-2009, 08:36 PM
Thanks - I have fenderwell headers now, but opted for the drop spindles. Not sure how much tire rub I will have.... still installing the Heidts subframe and planning on replacing my front tires with the smallest diameter front runners I can find.

The S&S headers are around $500 so not too bad... was hoping a set of $200 ish Hookers would fit. Looking at the S&S pic I see the headers have to hug the block a bit so something off the shelf wont work - bummer...

Greg_R_63
25th-January-2009, 08:55 PM
Thanks - I have fenderwell headers now, but opted for the drop spindles. Not sure how much tire rub I will have.... still installing the Heidts subframe and planning on replacing my front tires with the smallest diameter front runners I can find.

The S&S headers are around $500 so not too bad... was hoping a set of $200 ish Hookers would fit. Looking at the S&S pic I see the headers have to hug the block a bit so something off the shelf wont work - bummer...

Yep - Hooker fenderwells, S&S, Dawson, Lemons. Headers that fit without mods means money.

Notch Johnson
27th-January-2009, 10:40 AM
FYI - I raised the Heidts front subframe w/ a BBC question to Sanderson Headers. They advised they have a shorty style (model BB1) or a full length style (model C5) that fits the Heights subframe with a BBC.

The primary tubes are 1 7/8 with a 3" collector. Little small for my engine, but better to go smaller on the street that larger - I guess? thoughts?

plycoupe
18th-April-2009, 01:15 PM
First off,quality is excellent. On my 66 there are issues however. With Patriot heads they fit the engine very well except the #7 spark plug has no clearance. Can't even install the plug while on the engine stand. Some gentle massaging while on a jig,problem solved.........Problem #2. Install engine in Nova which now has Church boys rack conversion. Steering shaft needs to go directly through #1 primary %$#@ & *^%$#@<%^^&&*# $$$$$$! Now order another 3/4" double D u-joint,a heim type shaft support, redesign steering shaft... Too much angle for U-joints. More bad words, more$$$$$ Guess I'll order a set of Hooker 2243's tomorrow, would rather have 1 5/8" but oh well. Rant off. Did I mention I really liked the looks and quality of the Dougs 367"s?

Greg_R_63
18th-April-2009, 04:05 PM
First off,quality is excellent. On my 66 there are issues however. With Patriot heads they fit the engine very well except the #7 spark plug has no clearance. Can't even install the plug while on the engine stand. Some gentle massaging while on a jig,problem solved.........Problem #2. Install engine in Nova which now has Church boys rack conversion. Steering shaft needs to go directly through #1 primary %$#@ & *^%$#@<%^^&&*# $$$$$$! Now order another 3/4" double D u-joint,a heim type shaft support, redesign steering shaft... Too much angle for U-joints. More bad words, more$$$$$ Guess I'll order a set of Hooker 2243's tomorrow, would rather have 1 5/8" but oh well. Rant off. Did I mention I really liked the looks and quality of the Dougs 367"s?

They're great, but they're designed for a stock front clip. With the stock steering box out of the way, you might have even more options.

plycoupe
19th-April-2009, 12:40 AM
I truely believe there are more options with the stock steering box being gone. The real problem now seems to be the routing of the #1 primary. It looks like the best solution might be the straight back #1 that the super comp uses. I will try and find some more pics of different brand headers and see if any thing else looks promising. My main purpose in my last post was to hopefully save someone else the aggravation and expense that I enjoyed with the Dougs tubes on my particular installation.

skullboy
3rd-May-2009, 09:09 AM
I tried a set of the Dougs 367 on my 63 yesterday.ZZ4 motor with a TCI front clip.Steering shaft goes right thru #1 tube.So its a nogo.Back to the block huggers until I find something else.
The pricey ones(tci I think) fit nicely BUT not with a manual trans.The collector comes out right at clutch fork.The right side requires some "clearencing" to clear the large bellhousing but will work.But they are very nice looking headers.:cool:

Greg_R_63
3rd-May-2009, 01:25 PM
I tried a set of the Dougs 367 on my 63 yesterday.ZZ4 motor with a TCI front clip.Steering shaft goes right thru #1 tube.So its a nogo.Back to the block huggers until I find something else.
The pricey ones(tci I think) fit nicely BUT not with a manual trans.The collector comes out right at clutch fork.The right side requires some "clearencing" to clear the large bellhousing but will work.But they are very nice looking headers.:cool:

Dougs headers are for a stock front clip.;)

Carl Stevenson
9th-May-2009, 10:03 PM
I have read through about 30 pages of header advice but still have a question!

Is the interference on the chassis headers between the header and the arm that sticks out of the steering column, or is it between the header and the rod that runs down to the transmission?

Greg_R_63
10th-May-2009, 02:24 AM
I have read through about 30 pages of header advice but still have a question!

Is the interference on the chassis headers between the header and the arm that sticks out of the steering column, or is it between the header and the rod that runs down to the transmission?

It all depends on the headers. Sometimes one or the other, and sometimes both. As you've read, the most effective solution for keeping a column shifter is to replace the rod linkage with a cable.

Carl Stevenson
11th-May-2009, 12:29 AM
I was thinking about the cable option for an upcoming swap I will likely be doing for someone. The thing that concerned me was that if it's the arm off the column that hits then there is no point in doing a cable because the arm still has to stay on the column to hook the cable to.

Did I word that all so that it makes sense??!!

Cool II
5th-December-2009, 07:27 PM
The 1 1/2" primary tube headers worked fine on the modified 327, but now I have added a mini blower. headerdesign.com is good, but avoids boost. The mini blower will add only a few pounds of boost so I feel stepping up to a 1 5/8" primary tube header would be a good idea. I have heard that header design for a forced induction engine is not as critical as n/a, but with a mini blower it is a cross-over, the engine will run most of the time not under boost. The header size would support the over all power curve and not just the peak.
Any advise? Thanks, Al

sosick
3rd-January-2010, 11:41 PM
which headers tuck up best for a slammed 66 w a heidts clip???

Carl Stevenson
4th-January-2010, 12:02 AM
I was thinking about the cable option for an upcoming swap I will likely be doing for someone. The thing that concerned me was that if it's the arm off the column that hits then there is no point in doing a cable because the arm still has to stay on the column to hook the cable to.

Did I word that all so that it makes sense??!!

I got it all to work on a 63 Acadian wagon with a 200-4R trans. The lever on the column needed just a tiny tweak, the arm down to the bellcranke, just a tiny tweak, bit of a bend on the arm on the bellcrank and made a brand new rod running across under the header.

duckman
13th-January-2010, 09:09 PM
anyone running headers w/power steering ? '67 327. what brand seem to be the consensus for ease of installment w/out the bfh?

rmkpower1
8th-February-2010, 05:33 PM
do you have a part number are your ceramic coated?






67ChevySedan,
I have Hooker SuperComps on my 66, should be the same for the 67.
They are a pain, the engine has to be lifted a bit and the car has to be quite a ways off the ground, either on a hoist or on some high jackstands. The headers have to come in from the bottom if the engine is in the car.

Not real fun!

arcmark
17th-February-2011, 02:54 PM
Hi ,I just wanted to let everyone know that there is a shop in Maple Ridge BC that does a super job building custom equal length headers. They just finished mine and they are the best looking and built headers I've seen. The company is small and just starting up, but do they ever do nice work. Drag'n Car Creations, talk to Brian or Collin.:yes:

Coursey
16th-July-2011, 09:19 AM
I have a 1966 stock clip, CBR rack, power brakes, 350 sbc.
What would be the best route to take for some ceramic coated headers?

BTLNova
9th-November-2011, 02:20 PM
for the hookers that were installed, starter did it need the mini or was it just a a little to close for comfort, if I can remember it fit but there was only a small clearance gap, I put heat sheild,
the fly wheel, in my case I have a 1975 stock saginaw and bell housing attached to a 1975 0010 350 block, will the bell housing and fly whell not clear the header install.
Im not to concerned about the lifting off the engine and car as i will be changing to the heads to a set of WP S IIs square bore angle plug set up, ah does the hooker work with angle plug heads? any help is good.

66KRUZER
23rd-February-2012, 12:02 AM
First off to let you all know, I bought a set of Doug's D317 which is a VERY nice product...thick flange, heavy tubing, and nice welds. I decided to cough up the cash for the headers since they say they "guarantee their fitment". I dropped the driver side in and Wha La! Beautiful! Man these things really are worth $752, kick *****. What a dream the driver side was. Now for the passender side. I undo the motor mount, jack up the motor a couple of inches, drop the header down in there and bolt it up. Bam! go to let the motor down and the header hits the shock tower. Umm...I get under the car and I see the header is pinned between the shock tower and the bellhousing. Oh, did I mention I had the starter out. Yeah and I couldn't get my mini starter to go in with the 153 tooth flexplate either. Well back they go. Now if I could just grab the darn things and move the tubes where I want them, they would fit just fine. They went back to Pertronix, put my set in their jig and said they fit just right so it must be my vehicle. F%$&*!!!!!

You have now been forewarned. If you decide to get Doug's or several other brands and want the ceramic coated variety, order them through Jet-Hot. I could order them for less through Jet-Hot than I could through Pertronix. Jet-Hot's coating is MUCH better and is on the inside and outside. Whereas Pertonix only puts the coating on the outside.

Next warning, the sales rep at Jet-Hot isn't the shapest pencil in the box but is a nice enough guy. They also sent me a set for a '68 Chevelle with a big block instead of a set for a '66 Chevy II with a small block the first go round. However, I do have to say with two sets of headers shipped to me and back to them, I didn't pay a penny.

NOW MY QUESTION -
Which cheap budget header is the best fit from the get go. If I'm gonna have to beat on these things I don't wanna be doing it on a $700-$1000 set. Has anyone tried Summit's SUM-G9004 or Flowtech's 11110FLT? I'm thinking maybe with a torch and a press maybe I can get them to fit.

I have been looking at the Sanderson CC14 but the dimension on their website from the face of the header (where it bolts up to the head) to the outside of the tube is 2-3/4", which just happens to be exactly all the room I have from the head to the shock tower (on the passenger side). Also had a set of ramhorns that didn't work on the passenger side.

Thanks for any and all help!

Coursey
23rd-February-2012, 08:32 AM
I went with the Sanderson headers for a 66 nova stock clip. They went in fine from the top side. I just had to tweak the oil dip stick, and shorten a couple of the header bolts.

Bought direct from Sanderson at the Louisville nationals

asteeler4life
21st-March-2012, 02:38 AM
I DID AN ENGINE SWAP FOR NIC 1227 AND WE TRIED 2 STYLES OF LONG HEADERS AND THEY DIDN'T FIT THE PASSENGER SIDE, THEY HIT THE STARTER! :mad:
WE ENDED UP WITH SANDERSON SHORTIES AND THAT SETTLED ALL THE PROBLEMS! :D

SoCA06Z
15th-May-2012, 06:44 PM
Any recommendations for 64 Nova with CPP front end (upper and lower control arms, sway bars, etc. and dropped 2" via CPP drop spindles?

Motor is a 327 that will have Vortec heads....

I need something that won't hang down too low given the already low ride height.

XCELERATIONRULES
31st-May-2012, 10:08 PM
I've installed a couple sets of Summit headers,and they seem to fit pretty well.
I would try them before spending more on Hookers.

62HellBilyWagon
11th-September-2012, 08:02 PM
tci front clip bbc anyone have any cheap header suggestions?

gravesdu_99
21st-September-2012, 06:37 AM
hey guys I need some help. I have a 67 with a 350 and the th350. i'm running a 168 tooth flexplate and a hitiachi style mini high torque. I bought the hedman elite 68167 headers. My starter is no where near fitting. Is anyone else running this combination or am I going to have to go to a 153 tooth flex plate.

65novaken
21st-September-2012, 07:48 AM
what are you guys using for spark plug wires with super comp headers on a 350,gm hei distributor?

cdipstick2
2nd-December-2012, 07:38 AM
I just put hooker super comps in my 67 and a little tight but the main issue is clutch linkage. I have not figured out what to do with hooking up the z bar yet, and I do have the extra mounting bracket. If any one can help would be appreciatied.

cdipstick2
5th-December-2012, 10:12 AM
which header part number you use for the under car super comp I have come up with hooker part #2243 and fender wellis #2214, 2243 list for 419.00 I am looking for a set of under car headers for 66 with small block with 4 speed with lakewood bellhousing and scatter shield. I have heard of lemmons headers and are custom headers and are expensive. do the sanderson headers give the flow and performance of full length headers, thats the question???

I have the hooker 2122-1 and they fit good, but no clearance for r&R of oil filter. Have to loosen header in order to change filter. Also had to run a mini starter for clearance issues. Also I decided to go with hydraulic clutch because Z bar was really tight.

suede63SS
20th-January-2013, 01:44 PM
After reading so many pages....I think I am in header overload. :turn::turn::turn::confused::confused::confused:

We have a SBC going in my wife's 63 SS(floor shift auto) and it is low, so maybe some mid length or under chassis that are tucked to the body????. I have looked and tried to find pics of the Dougs, hedman 63160's, and J&W headers INSTALLED in a 1st gen, but to no avail.

Am I just crazy about the level of confusion of this topic? I think we should compile a list of part numbers of chassis exit and list of part numbers for fenderwell exit for all small blocks?

Everyone is talking about the J&W headers, but have yet to see them installed....ever.

If I missed some pics or info...I am real sorry, maybe my eyes are crossed from reading so much......

maxfield3333
3rd-March-2013, 10:22 PM
Talk about header overload. This is just a suggestion but why doesn't someone take all this information and make a chart so all this information can be easier to use. People with TCI, CBR etc. front ends could be their own section. Stock front ends could be another. I would try and do this myself but I'm not even sure what some of the big words are. lol Better yet take all the threads about whch header fits what and combine all this info. Myself I currently run fender exit headers but not by choice. It's just what came on the car when we bought the car. My only upgrades that I'd like to do with the car is power steering, disk brakes and chassis headers. But like everyone viewing this thread I like the best fitting header for the best price without the problems with fit i.e. oil filters, starter and which automatic tranny I plan to run. Thanks for letting me put my two cents in on this post. Max

66KRUZER
19th-April-2013, 11:45 PM
Here you go. I made a table of 1st gen compatible small block headers. It's not complete yet, but it's a good start:

http://www.nocturnaloner.net/Nova/earlynovaheaders.htm

PM me with changes or updates. I'll add big block and non-stock clip info later.

-edit-
As of today, 2/25/06, I have every first gen header I could find. There are about 20 different designs in total. I now have a table for big block headers, as well as those that are known to work with TCI/Heidts front clips. I also have a table for column shift linkage kits. Once again, any additional info or pictures of installed headers are greatly appreciated.


You guys missed it....it's right here (from page 9). THANKS Greg_R_63! :yes:

As of now the table is a little dated but still very useful. I went with the Hooker 2243 and still had to "massage" the passenger side, and I have a mini starter with 153 tooth flexplate. Others have had luck and I can't find why they don't work for me. I have original frame mounts and stock motor mounts. The driver's side was a dream. :confused: Good luck to the rest of ya!

If you have read much of this thread, then you found you will find varying opinions on which fit and don't. you'll just have to find out yourself.