Leaky Brake line

Noname
8th-September-2009, 11:54 PM
Hey Guys,
I just finished my front disc brake conversion. I have two leaks. One is coming from the proportioning valve-the back brake line. How tight should this line be? It leaks without any pressure.

The other leak comes from one of the calipers. I changed the brass washers and tried a different brake hose. It still leaks. Any suggestions?

It is a new kit but from a questionable source. The kit came with the car when I bought it.

Chori
9th-September-2009, 12:46 AM
check the flares for cracks? poor flares cause leaks. and make sure to use line wrenches also, don't want to round off the nuts. maybe pics of the flares to show us?

the mechanic
9th-September-2009, 09:29 AM
Hey Guys,
I just finished my front disc brake conversion. I have two leaks. One is coming from the proportioning valve-the back brake line. How tight should this line be? It leaks without any pressure.

The other leak comes from one of the calipers. I changed the brass washers and tried a different brake hose. It still leaks. Any suggestions?

It is a new kit but from a questionable source. The kit came with the car when I bought it.

All the lines should be pretty tight, dont have a torque spec but tight....

The leak at the prop. valve is as said probably a flare problem...

The leak at the caliper- try another brass washer but ive seen remaned calipers that are messed up where the fitting goes on...

Duane
9th-September-2009, 10:20 AM
All the lines should be pretty tight, dont have a torque spec but tight....

The leak at the prop. valve is as said probably a flare problem...

The leak at the caliper- try another brass washer but ive seen remaned calipers that are messed up where the fitting goes on...

are you using double flares? that rear prop always seems to my headache one also, just a pain to flare and bend.

On the copper crush washers, they should be tight, but the washers might need to be annealed also to make them crushable, annealing is heating them up to red hot, and either letting them slowly cool or rapidly cool, you'll hear it two ways, you decide. If you have a small propane torch, that will work. Also check to make sure you have no burrs, and you are using two washers per connection, right? One on each side of the bango.

NOGO
9th-September-2009, 01:19 PM
You say one leak comes from the caliper, but since you replaced the copper washers on the line connection have you looked to see if the leak is from somewhere else? Maybe a bleed screw? Maybe a crack in the casting? Bad hose?

You should not have to heat any of the washers to get a good seal.:no:

Noname
10th-September-2009, 12:33 AM
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I will inspect the brake line from behind the combo valve. I hope it is as simple as a bad flare or thread.

As far as the caliper, I think it is a bad casting. I will have break out the Dremmel and do some grinding.

I hope a SNS member doesn't own this Nova parts supply where the old owner of my car bought the brake kit. This place sucks-big time.:eek:I bought Chevy II ball joints that were metric:eek::eek::eek::eek: They couldn't even get a simple brake line right.:eek::eek: