Sub-frame connectors... are these a must-have?

Hi guys...
The guy who painted my car told me I "MUST" have sub-frame connectors welded in as soon as I get the car together. Otherwise, he claims these cars flex so much that the paint will probably crack at some of the seams.

Is this true? Does anyone else have subframe connectors?

Thanks for your opinions!

I can vouch for their desirability on these cars.

I managed to make a small rip in the passenger quarter on mine years ago from aggressive driving influenced body flex, and this was just with the L6.

I didn't want to risk it with even more power as a result of throwing a V8 at it. They're cheap insurance and the car feels a whole lot more solid now.

I could tell that there was a remarkable differece in the way mine handled and tracked once I installed them.

if you plan on doing ANY kind of racing yes I would say they are a must have.

Hi guys...
The guy who painted my car told me I "MUST" have sub-frame connectors welded in as soon as I get the car together. Otherwise, he claims these cars flex so much that the paint will probably crack at some of the seams.

Is this true? Does anyone else have subframe connectors?

Thanks for your opinions!

I hear if you don't install them and turn hard or have some HP your doors will become very hard to open.

I noticed a huge differance in the handdling after installing mine. Its very simple to do if you have basic welding skills or a friend that does. Well worth the money. should be less than $100 and its easy to do your own if you want to save even more $.

I had a built 355 and now 454 solid mounted for 10 years with no ties, body didnt flex or crack, but it is a 74' hatch and does have some extra braces around the cars body, i put ties in a few years ago and it did stiffen it a bit and my traction improved, but it sounds like your painter is covering his butt.

Use the bolt in ones from competition engineering (or equivalent) then have them welded in place the weld in ones from them don't connect jack they just extend the front ones and move your spring to the end of it, and to be quite honest there are better, easier ways to move your spring

Use the bolt in ones from competition engineering (or equivalent) then have them welded in place the weld in ones from them don't connect jack they just extend the front ones and move your spring to the end of it, and to be quite honest there are better, easier ways to move your spring

These ones accually do connect the front and rear frames very well. They weld directly to the front frame rails that run along the trans to the firewall. In the rear they are to be welded to the CE rear framerails tieing it all together. The rear CE frame rails are used to rellocate or tub the stock rear rails. If you do want to move your springs I think this is the easiest way for someone to do it. If you dont want to put in the CE rear frame rails you can run a piece of 2"x2" box tube to the rocker and back it upto the stock leaf mount. CE instruction dont show this. If you use the Chasiss Works connectors this is how they install. All of the weld in ones Ive seen do require cutting the floor pans a bit. This is a very simple modification and can be done many ways. I have installed the CW ones and I just used the CE setup to move my frame rails. So I have pics of both setups being used. If you have a welder I can walk you through this mod. over the phone with my pics.

PM me if you need help Jeff

Use the bolt in ones from competition engineering (or equivalent) then have them welded in place the weld in ones from them don't connect jack they just extend the front ones and move your spring to the end of it, and to be quite honest there are better, easier ways to move your spring

+1

easier than the weld ons from CE

I alwas suggest the ones from Global West Engineering, out here in Southern California. They come powder coated, and have no interference issues with floor, emergency brake cables, etc...

On the first and second gen cars frame connectors are needed IMHO. For all the money you put into the car they are cheap insurance and a good improvement.

Global West makes a weld in set for these cars. They clear emergency brake cables, floor pans etc. I took it to a performance shop to have them welded in. They commented that they fit very well, much better than most they had seen.

What I noticed right off was the front suspension has more action over bumps etc. Less twist in the car.

I used the Global West on mine. I also had frame connectors on a 93 Firebird Formula once owned. Two years ago some girl ran a stop sign and hit on my passenger side where my girlfriend was sitting. Those frame connectors I believe till this day saved her life, it kept the car from folding in.

I wish still had the pictures so I could show you how hard the girl hit me and she was in a S10 Chevy truck.

I have the Global Wests on my Cobra and it was a huge improvement and they're great quality. I'll be running the Global Wests on my II as well.

Global West?!?!?!?!? Why all the hype!! Just kidding.

You really dont need a name attached to them. Just go buy some 2x4 steel tube and weld or bolt them in. I kinda laugh when I see something as simple as frame connectors being sold. Maybe its the drilled holes or the slotted cuts that makes them marketable. But really, they are nuthing but some tubing. You have a jig saw?? A drill?? Buy a stick of 2x4 tubing for half the cost and make your connectors, custom for your car.

I like weld in, bolt in is just as good, providing you use some heavy bolts and some heavy steel to bolt them to. Dont know of much heavy steel on a 1st or 2nd gen car.

Weld in makes it part of the car, specially if its welded into the floor and some cross members also. Bolt in doesnt supply any torsional stiffness but does link the front and rear together. And really, weld in, even with the pan incorporated doesnt add much in the way of torsional stiffness..

You can measure your torsional stiffness before and after. The bars are so long they will flex. JR

On my Son's 70SS we made our own connectors and also two crossmembers for driveshaft loops and used solid subframe mounts-what a difference!!! The car feels, drives, reacts, so much better. I once jacked the car up off of the front driveshaft loop so it was teatering on the jack and you could still open and close the doors with perfect alignment-it is stout!

My 72 nova is another story with squished and cracking stock rubber subframe mounts and no subframe connectors the thing flexes all over and is very unpredictable on launch.

I.M.O. no matter which way you go, always jack the car up in the middle if you can. I have a crack on one "A" post and one "C" post because the previous owner told me he jacked the car up on one side.

I've installed the CE in my 63 and 66. I have yet to really drive my 66 but you can tell the difference in flex with them installed. My 63 I drove a bunch with them installed. Immediately noticed a difference after the first railroad track I went over, instead of a wet noodle she felt like a full framed car.

I didn't like the CE's upfront, with the big U that stuck down low, so I cut a portion of the U (the heigth) down and welded in a flat piece so its fully boxed in. Looks cleaner to. I think the GW's are tubular too, so cleaner looking.

I haven't had an issue with the parking brake on my 66 since I ran the cables on the outside with the 9" rear, but that was an issue when the 63, but had a 4 speed and just left it in gear. So I would vote on the GW's for quality.

I checked out the Global West ones. They look nice and I will probably go with them... but they are weld-in and they come powdercoated black... does anyone else see a problem here??

I checked out the Global West ones. They look nice and I will probably go with them... but they are weld-in and they come powdercoated black... does anyone else see a problem here??

Grind the edges that are to be welded and then paint:yes: