Lowering Wagon

Hey guys I have a question. I'm trying to install these blocks and I know the little nipple needs to fall in some where but the only place for it would be below the leaf spring and to me that would just extend the shock more then anything. Do I need to grind down the nipple?

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/Misc/DSCF0075.jpg

-Justin

You can drill the leave spring or cut off the nipple:eek:

I wouldn't recommend drilling the spring; it will be weaker and eventually split at the drilled hole, then all of a sudden you'll get an instant lowering job on that side of the wagon. It happened to one of the wagons I used to own, and had to find out the hard way that the mono-springs were drilled. Luckily, the car was not going too fast, I slowly drove it back to my house, and immediately replaced both springs with another pair of bone stockers I had laying around. Just to let you know, RK

I wouldn't recommend drilling the spring; it will be weaker and eventually split at the drilled hole, then all of a sudden you'll get an instant lowering job on that side of the wagon. It happened to one of the wagons I used to own, and had to find out the hard way that the mono-springs were drilled. Luckily, the car was not going too fast, I slowly drove it back to my house, and immediately replaced both springs with another pair of bone stockers I had laying around. Just to let you know, RK

Ok, enough said! I won't do that :no:

-Justin

I think the nipple is pressed on the lowering block and can be extracted JM

Just sent you a PM.

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm done! But as I have read hear before but I'm unsure what everyone has done I also have rubbing on the passenger rear side.

Finished product
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/Misc/LoweredCar7.jpg

Here is how close the passenger side rear tire is to the fender
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/Misc/LoweredCar2.jpg

Lots of room on the driver side.
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/Misc/DSCF0086.jpg

Looks like a good ride hight. Now get the right offset wheels:D or lose the wheels & get some skirts:D

Looks like a good ride hight. Now get the right offset wheels:D

What is the correct offset wheels? If I had the wrong ones would it be tight on both sides?

-Justin

I could tell you what offset I have, but then I would have to kill you:devil:

I could tell you what offset I have, but then I would have to kill you:devil:

WELL, we don't want that to happen now do we :no: How about you just give me a hint :D

Justin take YOUR wheel off of YOUR car. Measure the back spacing. This will give you a starting point. Now decide how much TIRE clearence you want. Order two new rear wheels with the new correct back spacing.

Car looks good. I like the ride height.

Bryan

What size are the tires? I went from a 245 to a 225 and gained about 3/4 of an inch.

215/60r15

I know IRIE had the same issue. Just called and left a voice mail. Going to see how he resolved it.

-Justin

215/60r15

I know IRIE had the same issue. Just called and left a voice mail. Going to see how he resolved it.

-Justin

Sure do not want to go any smaller than that :no:

just roll the inner fender lip.that should give you about 1/4" clearance.

just roll the inner fender lip.that should give you about 1/4" clearance.

How is this done? I have never done this before.

-Justin

just roll the inner fender lip.that should give you about 1/4" clearance.

Looks like he is rubbing the inner fender not the lip. Actually looks like the lip already has some roll to it.

Thats right, the lip isnt the problem. It's the inner fender. As we discussed, you can use a portapower, or torch the inner fender and hit it with a hammer.

I haven't done anything to my problem, I'm just gonna sell my set and get a new set of wheels n tires.

Good luck Jus... let me know what you end up doing.

-Jay

I had the same problem on my 3rd gen and here's what I did. My blocks are made of steel, and the nipple is for centering. I cant remember if it is for centering the springs or rear end, but I ground off 1/2 of the nipple, then welded a new 1/2 to one side to make an nipple offset. Then installed them back into the car, pushing over the rear so the pins would line up and tighten the "U" bolts. I worked for me and now the rear is center to the body. I know its most likley not the correct way to fix the problem... but it worked....

Good luck with yours,
Reg

215/60r15

I know IRIE had the same issue. Just called and left a voice mail. Going to see how he resolved it.

-JustinThe tires aren't the problem....I run 215/70/15 on my wagon I also run a 6" wheel with 31/2 back space. I have 2" block in back and I did not have to roll the lip. I can put 4 adults and go anywhere with no problems. I had to work on the spare tire well a little with a hammer:eek:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/hooksup2/CarCraftShoot319.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/hooksup2/CarCraftShoot316.jpg

Mark, earlier wagons do not have the spacing yours does. I had to find a set of 15x7's with five inches of backspacing to clear and not rub with my 3" lowering blocks. I have a 75 series tire in the back, and it'll touch the wheel way up in the top of the well on extremely hard cornering, but not the sidewalls anymore:

Mark, earlier wagons do not have the spacing yours does. I had to find a set of 15x7's with five inches of backspacing to clear and not rub with my 3" lowering blocks. I have a 75 series tire in the back, and it'll touch the wheel way up in the top of the well on extremely hard cornering, but not the sidewalls anymore:

Dale,

Glad you brought up the fact about 1st Gen wagons not having as much room between rear tires and wheelwells. On the rear of my '66, I run 15x7 wheels with 4.75" backspacing, wrapped with 215/65s, and there's no interference issues. My front wheels are 15x6 with 3.75" backspacing, and run 195/65 radials. Rear wheel backspacing is a critical factor on the non-altered '62 to '67 Nova bodies with a stock width rearend, that's if you want to run wider wheels with bigger tires. Where there's a will, there's a way. RK

Mark, earlier wagons do not have the spacing yours does. I had to find a set of 15x7's with five inches of backspacing to clear and not rub with my 3" lowering blocks. I have a 75 series tire in the back, and it'll touch the wheel way up in the top of the well on extremely hard cornering, but not the sidewalls anymore:Thanks on that I did not know there was a differents between 1st & 2nd gen wagons:turn:

Thanks on that I did not know there was a differents between 1st & 2nd gen wagons:turn:

Thats cause ALL ( except 1 ) of you guys have 2nd gen's down south:confused:

These wheels are the SAME offset as mine & I have 215x65x15'S

I cant remember but I will tell you this much,all these people that think they can get an 8 inch wheel with a 235 on the back of a first Gen,good luck with that.This is a 16-7 with a 225-50- 16 and there isnt anymore room in the rear of the car for a bigger tire.Heres a few pictures with the old 225-50s,same size as the new tires.Those wrinkles in the sheet metal are stock,nothing was beat on with this car.http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a136/FLYTYM/ChevyIII245Small-1.jpghttp://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a136/FLYTYM/ChevyIII249Small-1.jpg
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Hey guys I had an issue with one of my blocks falling out this weekend. I had an adult in the passenger seat, my oldest son in the passenger rear seat. We hit a bump and not a large one, the rear driver side block came out. So I'm not sure what happened but the other side is fine and it does not look like the bolts backed out. I was able to drive it home with no issues (I had no choice). So I don't want this to happen again so I'm thinking of welding some angle iron (not what is in the picture, but some real good stuff) to the leaf spring. Do you guys foresee any issues with me doing this?

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/Misc/DSCF0160.jpg

I would add something to the upper perch rather than weld on the spring. You could probably just drill a hole near the end and stick a bolt through to keep it from moving. Or span a piece angle with holes in each side across the two U bolts. It is probably difficult to weld to the spring anyway.

Nova65ss I will look into this. Thanks for the idea.

-Justin

NO WELDING! I had 1 fall out on the free way in my 64 longroof once. Drove it home 40 miles put another one in & never had any more problems.

TIGHTEN THE BOLTS:D

If anything weld a stop on the housing mount.

PM me your address I have some thin but hard rubber pads you can put on the top and bottom of the block and it will not move or squeak :yes:

I would add something to the upper perch rather than weld on the spring. You could probably just drill a hole near the end and stick a bolt through to keep it from moving. Or span a piece angle with holes in each side across the two U bolts. It is probably difficult to weld to the spring anyway.

Couple hose clamps may work to cinch those pieces down.

How in the heck did that block fall out????:eek:

First I"ve ever heard of this happening?. Someone mentioned earlier that drilling a locating hole was verboten? The spring cracked in or through the hole? I would not have an issue with this, unless the hole , well, now that I think about it, those locating holes are quite large diameter, say compared to a Chrysler spring center bolt. You would be removing roughly one third of the surface area of the spring flat. Scratch that idea.......

I have another idea. I'm going to give it a whirl on my wagon, before I go off anf tell people, just in case it fails miserably...

get them bolts tight. Torque them to at least 85 ft/lbs. AND tighten them evenly and don't distort the shock plate.

The shock plate will distort at that torque. I can't even get past 50lbs without distortion.

The shock plate will distort at that torque. I can't even get past 50lbs without distortion.

I agree - something you gotta be careful with. Torque specs are tough to go by with the use of these u-bolts with this much space between the plates. Just tighten it down, ride it... and re-tighten them... then maybe add another locknut after. That's what I did.

The shock plate will distort at that torque. I can't even get past 50lbs without distortion.

wow really? didn't have that issue with mine. Course those plates are kinda thin....

Get some self locking grade 8 nuts. Also, when you install the u-bolts, make sure they are perpendicular to the rear end. Tighten them a little, tap them with a hammer to align them, and then tighten them some more. Do this slowly ,and watch the bolts. They cannot be at an angle to the rear end or they will slip. Also, make sure you have the same amount of bolt sticking down below the spring pad. These should be close to even, You don't want to "roll" the ubolt around your rear end as you tighten it.

As stated above, don't overtighten them and bend or crack the pad. I found one on my car this way from the previous owner, not getting the alignment pin in the hole, and over tightened it..........Run it a few miles and check them again.

T,

Justin, Did you get your stuff yet??

Nope, maybe tomorrow. I will let you know when I get them.

-Justin