TomM
3rd-March-2009, 07:10 PM
Disclaimer: This is not meant to be the only way, or the best way to do this, I found out the hard way. I am on my second brake system and finally have good, reliable brakes. There was a lot of trial and error on my part to get here. I am sure that there is a shop manual somewhere that details how to adjust these brakes accordingly, or someone will come along with a better or smarter way, but I just know this worked for me, and I hope it helps anyone that needs it. There are many variables to brake systems, and this may not be the problem, due to caliper bracket flexing, pad misalignment, faulty master cylinders etc. Again, I am not the sharpest tack in the box, or a certified mechanic, so do not assume this will correct your problem. This was not included in the instructions I was provided.
To adjust the calipers and e-brake correctly several things have to happen, the lever needs to be adjusted, and then the brake cable, let’s start with the passenger side first, and then the driver’s side. All this preferably with the caliper bolted to the bracket, and the system bled.
Remove the e-brake lever from the caliper. The stud sticking out of the caliper needs to be turned counter clockwise, until the pads are tight against the rotor. Try to reinstall the arm back on the stud. There should be only about 1/8” between the back of the arm and the lever stop. If there is more you will have to make some adjustment. You want this as close to the stop as possible, to get the maximum travel possible for the e-brake arm.
The following “re clocks” the arm, and needs to be done slowly to get it just right. You can turn it past the right place, no problem; just keep going until you get the arm at about 1/8” from the stop.
Once you find that the arm is not in its closest position, you will need to turn the stud the arm mounts to, clockwise. As you do this, it is going to recede into the caliper far enough that fluid will run out around the seal, but it doesn’t need to. When you turn the stud clockwise, it is going to create slack in the caliper to pad clearance, releasing the pressure for your counter clockwise adjustment. Take a couple of pairs of channel locks, or two screwdrivers, and squeeze the pad back in as you get slack, and as you turn the stud clockwise. This will push the stud back out, so you can continue turning it until it bottoms out. This stud is going to bottom out against the back of the caliper piston, but it will “slip” as you keep turning, this is what clocks the stud, so the arm will be in the right position once you turn the stud back counter clockwise to check the position. As you turn clockwise, watch the lip of the stud housing, so as to not go past the lip of the caliper boss, as there is an o-ring seal right there to keep fluid in. If you breach the seal, you will let air in, and have to re bleed. You will feel the stud bottom out, and then slip as you keep going, and this is what moves the stud to the right position. Back the stud out, counter clockwise tightening the pads against the rotor. Slip the arm back on and check it against the stop. If it’s not right, repeat the steps, and “slip” the stud a little more clockwise, back it out counter clock wise, and check the arm again. If you don’t have any fluid on your calipers yet, don’t worry about the pliers; just turn the stud clockwise to adjust, as no fluid is going to run out. Once you have the arm set, that is all you need to do, as it won’t change anything whether you have fluid on the system of not.
Once this is done, repeat the process for the driver’s side, except that the directions will be reversed, so clockwise will tighten the pads against the rotor, and counterclockwise will ‘clock’ the stud. Makes sense as the e-brake lever pulls forward to tighten the pads against the rotor.
When all the caliper adjustments are made, you will need to adjust the e-brake cable to take the slack out of the arm. This moves the pad close to the rotor and removes slack from the take up. If you do not do this part, you will have low pedal, and have to pump the brakes to pick up the slack between the pads and rotor.
Pull on the e-brake cable by hand. The arm should only move about 1/8” before it gets tight and stops, this means the pads are up against the rotor and the brakes are engaging. There is a fine line here, as it can make them too tight, and have the pads rubbing on the rotor. There will always be some contact with the rotor, but be sure to notice that while you are pumping your brakes, the caliper comes out, and then recedes once you let off the pedal. It should recede ever so slightly, as this releases pressure from the caliper. Just be careful, not to over tighten the cable here, or you’ll be replacing pads often. Adjust as necessary to get the proper pedal.
T,
To adjust the calipers and e-brake correctly several things have to happen, the lever needs to be adjusted, and then the brake cable, let’s start with the passenger side first, and then the driver’s side. All this preferably with the caliper bolted to the bracket, and the system bled.
Remove the e-brake lever from the caliper. The stud sticking out of the caliper needs to be turned counter clockwise, until the pads are tight against the rotor. Try to reinstall the arm back on the stud. There should be only about 1/8” between the back of the arm and the lever stop. If there is more you will have to make some adjustment. You want this as close to the stop as possible, to get the maximum travel possible for the e-brake arm.
The following “re clocks” the arm, and needs to be done slowly to get it just right. You can turn it past the right place, no problem; just keep going until you get the arm at about 1/8” from the stop.
Once you find that the arm is not in its closest position, you will need to turn the stud the arm mounts to, clockwise. As you do this, it is going to recede into the caliper far enough that fluid will run out around the seal, but it doesn’t need to. When you turn the stud clockwise, it is going to create slack in the caliper to pad clearance, releasing the pressure for your counter clockwise adjustment. Take a couple of pairs of channel locks, or two screwdrivers, and squeeze the pad back in as you get slack, and as you turn the stud clockwise. This will push the stud back out, so you can continue turning it until it bottoms out. This stud is going to bottom out against the back of the caliper piston, but it will “slip” as you keep turning, this is what clocks the stud, so the arm will be in the right position once you turn the stud back counter clockwise to check the position. As you turn clockwise, watch the lip of the stud housing, so as to not go past the lip of the caliper boss, as there is an o-ring seal right there to keep fluid in. If you breach the seal, you will let air in, and have to re bleed. You will feel the stud bottom out, and then slip as you keep going, and this is what moves the stud to the right position. Back the stud out, counter clockwise tightening the pads against the rotor. Slip the arm back on and check it against the stop. If it’s not right, repeat the steps, and “slip” the stud a little more clockwise, back it out counter clock wise, and check the arm again. If you don’t have any fluid on your calipers yet, don’t worry about the pliers; just turn the stud clockwise to adjust, as no fluid is going to run out. Once you have the arm set, that is all you need to do, as it won’t change anything whether you have fluid on the system of not.
Once this is done, repeat the process for the driver’s side, except that the directions will be reversed, so clockwise will tighten the pads against the rotor, and counterclockwise will ‘clock’ the stud. Makes sense as the e-brake lever pulls forward to tighten the pads against the rotor.
When all the caliper adjustments are made, you will need to adjust the e-brake cable to take the slack out of the arm. This moves the pad close to the rotor and removes slack from the take up. If you do not do this part, you will have low pedal, and have to pump the brakes to pick up the slack between the pads and rotor.
Pull on the e-brake cable by hand. The arm should only move about 1/8” before it gets tight and stops, this means the pads are up against the rotor and the brakes are engaging. There is a fine line here, as it can make them too tight, and have the pads rubbing on the rotor. There will always be some contact with the rotor, but be sure to notice that while you are pumping your brakes, the caliper comes out, and then recedes once you let off the pedal. It should recede ever so slightly, as this releases pressure from the caliper. Just be careful, not to over tighten the cable here, or you’ll be replacing pads often. Adjust as necessary to get the proper pedal.
T,