OK, so i know this has been asked before...

i know someone, somewhere has asked this before. however, i keep searching and reading and searching and reading and i never find a solid answer that helps me.
i am getting ready to re-evaluate my '71 and re-do my rear suspension. my plan is to move my leaf springs inward and stretch my factory tubs out a few inches.
my problem is that i would like to avoid cutting into the frame (notching), or moving it in any way. no one has been able to give me solid advice or evidence of the amount of tire i can fit in the rear if i just move the springs in and stretch the tubs, or weld in new tubs that are wider. again, this is a '71.
i know it won't be hard to weld in CE subframe connectors and new offset spring hangers and axle housing mounts, but has anyone done this modification without using new frame rails, or modifying the originals? my ultimate goal is to tuck in some 12.50 or 13.50 et street's. please let me know if anyone has done this and i would greatly appreciate pictures. they will help me a lot.
sorry for the long post, just trying o clear things up before i start cutting away like a mad man!:(

yes I've seen guys just move the rear leafs in with the offset spring hangers and move the shocks inboard too. This gives you some clearance for a 11-12' tire. Keep searching on here and also go onto yellowbullet.com and search or post the question too. If you split the tub your not gaining alot because the frame is now in the way. Also find a early 64-67 10 bolt or 12 bolt housing this gives you some more room for a bigger tire as the rear ends are 2" shorter, or maybe a Ford 8.8 rear.

thanks, do you or anyone happen to know the factory width of the axle housing on a '71 off hand? it's an 8.5 10 bolt, i don't know if that will make a difference. i was looking at just getting a currie 9 inch bolt in, same specs as the original, but maybe i can find something else that will work
either way, i'm pretty sure a shorter axle will just change the wheel backspacing requirement? maybe? i don't know, now i'm just thinking out loud lol

Although not a Nova, there is a nice article, with pictures, on a mini-tub in the Mar 09 issue of "Hot Rod" magazine.

thanks, do you or anyone happen to know the factory width of the axle housing on a '71 off hand? it's an 8.5 10 bolt, i don't know if that will make a difference. i was looking at just getting a currie 9 inch bolt in, same specs as the original, but maybe i can find something else that will work
either way, i'm pretty sure a shorter axle will just change the wheel backspacing requirement? maybe? i don't know, now i'm just thinking out loud lol

http://www.novaresource.org/axle.htm

Here's a pic of what I have done on the cheap. I have seen better but this works too! Sorry I am having a hard time getting pictures on here. The computer is smarter than the user in my case. Go to photobucket.com and lookup user 66chev350. Go to page 5. The method I have used, you leave the frame in place. The edge of the leaf spring is even with the edge of the frame.

http://s431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/66Chev350/?action=view&current=66-078.jpg

Check this thread
http://http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101637&highlight=rear+hangers

Check this link for the rear hangers
http://www.detroitspeed.com/productpages/indproduct/rearsuspensionprod/offset_shackles_prod.htm

And this one for another style
http://www.speedycarparts.com/sku/Chevrolet_Nova-II_Comp-Engineering_Leaf-Spring-Shackle-Hanger_1968_1968_C602032.html?srccode=cii_5784816&cpncode=18-26556783-2
This kind you can bolt to the frame rail.

Moving the shocks inboard will give some room. Take your shocks off and take a few measurements. Most people can fit a 275mm tire by doing that. You have to measure though because each of these cars is slightly different.

If you really have an 8.5 rear, they will take a lot of power and abuse. It is a pretty good rear. A 71 would have had an 8.2 ten bolt or a twelve bolt from the factory, so you need to verify which 10 bolt you really have.

i have tried a couple different sources to identify it, and they say it's a 8.5 rear. it has the little square notches on the bottom of the housing and all, and it seems to be pretty strong. but either way, i think i'm going to fab up a 9 inch in place of the original just for the added strength

rodent, i just saw your link for the rear end info. that is very helpful, thankyou.i think i can get a new rear somewhere int hat ballpark.

and kruzer, your car is looking good in those photos, and they do give me somewhat of an idea of what direction im going in

Lots of photos on my site in the My Nova album; we didn't touch the frame. As mentioned already, the shock is the first thing in the way.

Widening your tubs is not going to help much if you do not move your springs inward some, and if you do that, you will need a narrower gas tank. Alot of ****$ for a little bigger tire.

I mini-tubbed my 69, but stopped before moving the springs in because of ****$ shortage. I would have been able to fit MT 325-50-15 tires in there after, but I notched the frame though :D

billsnogo, when you notched the frame, was it the original factory frame? or did you have aftermarket frame rails?

all this studying is making me lean towards notching, i've tried to avoid it, but just moving the springs and tubs seems pointless without notching.

and, it doesn't seem to be all that big of a hassle, i just wonder if i should use the original frame

also, the gas tank won;t be in the way because i think i'm gettin rid of that p.o.s. and puttin in a fuel cell:yes:

Factory frame. It is just sheetmetal. I took half off it out, and was in the process of adding L-channel to add support on the inside just to be safe side. I cut out the top, back side, and bottom then pushed it in until it was where I wanted it, tack welded it in, cut out the excess and welded a small section to fill in the gap. Hard to explain, but easy to do :yes:

hmmmmm, i might have to do that. i think adding the strength to the back is a good idea too

ok so, here it is.....i think. weld in subframe connectors, relocate the front of spring inward. then use offset shackle in the back. stretch the factory tubs with some sheet metal strips, then notch the frame where needed and add some strength. weld up an upper shock crossmember, and use caltracs to mount shocks inside leafs. replace gas tank with a shorter one (or just go with a fuel cell). all in all, it doesn't seem too bad. is there anything i'm forgetting lol

oh yea! new rearend with spring mount plates. yup

Here is a pic, but not too good.

Also included is a pic of the tire I was making the modification for, it was a hoosier 325/50-15 next to a 275-50-15 that I decided was too small :rolleyes:

nice, i can see what your talking about now. i'm aiming at a 325/50r15 et street or a 28x13.50 drag. right around the same sizes i think. i have 275/60r15's now and i agree, they are just too small. plus i would like to tuck them up more and mount them on plain rally wheels for that sleeper look:devil:

is there anything i'm forgetting lol

Yep. New rear rims with either real deep offset (hard to find other than in weld wheels) or a shorter rear end. If you don't mind a fuel cell, that is the easiest way. I personal don't like them, as they take up your trunk

Bill (has a fuel cell...... for now :o )