CPP / Church Boy Upgrade

I got my CPP lower Church arm kit the other day:yes: The CB Rack and cross member has been sittin in the garage for some time now waiting on the CPP stuff. I am still waiting on the Coil Overs from CPP hopefully they will get here soon.

I just started to take some stock stuff apart tonight. Time to work on the Nova is slim to none around here..:(.. This up grade might take me a while. Well I was able to get the drag link (is that what it’s called?) out tonight. It looks like my front strut rods and stock cross member is bolted on so that should be rather simple to remove.

Walt, if you’re out there, can you check to see where CPP is with the coil over kit? Thx

Here is a B4 shot. I just put it up on the ramps.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/removalofstock002.jpg

Here is the passenger side B4, man I should of gotten the upper, my stockers look pretty bad.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/removalofstock005.jpg

Driver side B4 shot
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/removalofstock006.jpg

Here what I was able to remove tonight. That was fun, NOT!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/removalofstock007.jpg

Looking better already:D
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/removalofstock009.jpg

The fun has just started. You're gonna save a few hours having bolts instead of rivets.....keep us "posted"......:D

Looks good so far...


T,

You are so lucky! it looks like your strut rod pockets are bolted in.The worst part of that job is drilling out all those rivets.

Excellent! Please keep us posted on your progress with photos at different steps along the way. I wish these components were available when I built my car.

[QUOTE=TomM;994241]The fun has just started. You're gonna save a few hours having bolts instead of rivets.....keep us "posted"......:D

Carefull cutting with a torch and pop them out with a punch took me 15 minutes per side.
Tom

[QUOTE=TomM;994241]The fun has just started. You're gonna save a few hours having bolts instead of rivets.....keep us "posted"......:D

Carefull cutting with a torch and pop them out with a punch took me 15 minutes per side.
Tom

Dang... you had a torch?.....:(

Gotta get one of those some day....

T,

I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?

I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?

That's what I use... cut-off wheel on my angle grinder and take the heads off. Then I'm able to punch out the rest of the rivet.

Wow:eek: Sounds like some fun was had by the rivets. Glad mine is only bolted on with nuts and screws:cool: I may get some time under the car today:confused: wishful thinking with my two boyz (3yr and 4yr) runnin a muck:turn: Is there a particular order to this? I guess I need to support the car differently cause im on the ramps now. I guess some tall jack stands. I hate working under jack stands:eek:

Your uppers look better than mine did! They cleaned up nice with a wire wheel, POR-15 and Eastwood chassis black. If I had to do it again, I think I would go for powder coating.

http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/414242185_wvyhe-M.jpg

Hey surfdog, is the paint not holding up? I am looking for some options on cleaning some of the old stuff that will be put back on.

Smittys62, before you get the jack stands out and everything off and you can't move the car, unbolt your headers and get them out of the way. I know what you mean about having the little helpers mine are 1.5, 5, & 7

Smittys62, before you get the jack stands out and everything off and you can't move the car, unbolt your headers and get them out of the way. I know what you mean about having the little helpers mine are 1.5, 5, & 7

And one on the way :devil::devil:

I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?


Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.


T,

Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.


T,

I did mine with a cut-off. Cut a slice into the top like you're splitting it, the cross it again so it looks like a phillips head rivet, lol. A blade punch cleans it up and they pop out. I got pics of mine I'll probably post soon.

Okay, should I just take out the driver side? Ill take a look under there now. I think the Lil ones are napping:D Wife gone today helping a friend with her wedding:rolleyes: Great!!!

Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.


T,

Hey T ya know what? im glad you noticed. I have always been a little worrisome of where it was run. I had no idea where to run it and that was a strait shot to the pump. I will definitely re route it, I was just telling myself this last night while under the car, "Wow that look real bad" Thx for the advise!!:thumbsup:

Okay, should I just take out the driver side? Ill take a look under there now. I think the Lil ones are napping:D Wife gone today helping a friend with her wedding:rolleyes: Great!!!

Get busy Man! They will be up and she will be back before you have time to jack up the car.:mad::D

My crumb munchers are 4 and 7 both girls which makes it hard to work in the garage with all the screaming:confused:

Hey T ya know what? im glad you noticed. I have always been a little worrisome of where it was run. I had no idea where to run it and that was a strait shot to the pump. I will definitely re route it, I was just telling myself this last night while under the car, "Wow that look real bad" Thx for the advise!!:thumbsup:

If you look at the area where your front subframe bolts to the body, there should be a hole already drilled in the flange between the two, kinda up high. I am pretty sure this is where the original line ran, along the edge of the frame, on top of the lip, and then made a left through the firewall. I don't have a picture of my wheel well, but here's a shot from the top. The hose coming throught the firewall is from the tank, and has a 90* -an fitting on it.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/136.jpg

T,

Hey surfdog, is the paint not holding up? I am looking for some options on cleaning some of the old stuff that will be put back on.

I was more referring to the time and effort of cleaning and painting. Paint is holding up just fine so far. I don't drive it that much, just a few miles to the beach and back when the weather's nice. I sprayed my new 1" Eaton lowering springs with Rustoleum gloss blk.

http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/434756192_veQ8z-M.jpg

If you look at the area where your front subframe bolts to the body, there should be a hole already drilled in the flange between the two, kinda up high. I am pretty sure this is where the original line ran, along the edge of the frame, on top of the lip, and then made a left through the firewall. I don't have a picture of my wheel well, but here's a shot from the top. The hose coming throught the firewall is from the tank, and has a 90* -an fitting on it.

T,

I took a quick peek under there and BAM!!! The boyz were awake:bounce::devil::bounce:. Man I messed around and got all excited when I saw the new package on the porch, it was my coil over kit:D it made it!! So during my short peek I did not see a clear path through the firewall for the fuel line. I like how you came through the fender well with yours and also the Positive battery cable. That’s just another thing on the list that will get change on this go around. The other two braided lines are your tranny cooler lines, right? Looks good, thx for the pics. If anyone has a pick of a clean fuel line for a mechanical pump please post as it will need to be routed during this procedure. Thx again!! Smitty

I was more referring to the time and effort of cleaning and painting. Paint is holding up just fine so far. I don't drive it that much, just a few miles to the beach and back when the weather's nice. I sprayed my new 1" Eaton lowering springs with Rustoleum gloss blk.



WOW that looks real clean!!! I want mine to look like that:yes:

Yep, tranny lines. Let me see if I can get a picture of mine. Might not be the best way to do it, but it's outside the engine bay, routed away from the headers, and doesn't interfere with any suspension parts.

Come to think of it I went right along the rail to the frame, you can see the hole I used in your picture of the pas. side, it's slightly covered with a rubber gasket of some sort.

T,

It sounds like you will be working the grave yard shift on the Nova:sleep:

As for the fuel lines I ran mine up to the top by the fender and used a bolt for the spring guard to clamp it in place. I also came thru in the same place as Tom did.

Stock V-8 fuel line runs up the outside of the frame rail, and enters just above the frame rail under the battery area where Tom showed it. The stock 6-banger came in the firewall area.

Glad the coil-overs got there. Now I'm waiting for mine to put back in inventory.

You'll love the conversion:yes::yes:

So in my passenger side photo where my fuel line dives down I should continue it a bit more and then make the whole in the fender well there? I think that is where T showed his?

"It sounds like you will be working the grave yard shift on the Nova :sleep:"
That is for sure:yes::sleep::yes:

Hey Chuck you said that the headers will drop out of the bottom? What all needs to be removed prior? They sure seem snug in there:confused:. I dont think there is a need to remove the passenger side one right? I realize plugs, drag link and maybe oil filter might help but is there something else? I know without that header in there the steering box must be easier to get at.

Sounds like you are having fun. And the coilovers came just when you were thinking about them Great!! Oh, and the kids woke up just when you were thinking of them too LOL I know the feeling. I have a 4 and 8 YO here. Hard to get in the groove of the dirty parts when you know there are gonna be some rug rats lookin for dad. So?? Graveyard shift it is. Hey, its the weekend. At least its nice and warm tonight. JR

If you look at the area where your front subframe bolts to the body, there should be a hole already drilled in the flange between the two, kinda up high. I am pretty sure this is where the original line ran, along the edge of the frame, on top of the lip, and then made a left through the firewall. I don't have a picture of my wheel well, but here's a shot from the top. The hose coming throught the firewall is from the tank, and has a 90* -an fitting on it.
T,

Hey Tom, those hard lines I see in there, r those your brake lines? Mine r currently routed up to my radiator and across to the other side. I guess that makes it nice so I shouldn’t have to mess with then during this upgrade. I will also be doing my CPP master cylinder change out though. I will look to Kleen for help with that one:yes:

WOW that looks real clean!!! I want mine to look like that:yes:

Thanks. It started as a front disc upgrade. I then quickly realized ... I can't put disc brakes on this suspension!!

My 64 is a factory v8 car. Here's where the line runs from the engine compartment through the right fender. Hope this helps.

http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/456119209_bCWuw-M.jpg

http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/456119181_KTXJ9-M.jpg

Thx Surfdog, thats really helps. I will route mine in a similar fashion as GM's route looks pretty nice and clean. Thx again.

Smitty- I'm hoping that by the end of next week, I'll have something to report on my new Church Rack Conversion, along with their new lower control arms. With so much more of a caster adjustment, I may not need to trim out the front fenders for those mondo tires I'll be running when I chase 'em down with the wagon. Looking forward to seeing your install!!
Dale

JR,

Driver side header.........plugs, steering linkage, and oil filter need to be removed. It is a bit snug going past the steering box, it may leave a scuff. You will need to slide the entire header back toward the firewall and then aim the collector straight down toward the ground, it will almost be strait up and down. As it starts to go down the head flange will follow the firewall-floor pan down and out.

One thing to note with the brake lines ran up and around the radiator core support be very cautious of their locations when removing rivits and when you drill the 2 holes that are needed for the "Church Bar" or sway bar. You will want to run one of those and you will need to be carefull not to drill thru it. I almost made that mistake on dad's car.

Yep smitty those are brake lines, I just tucked them in behind the rack. Still have to devise aclamp/mount for them.

Surfdog nailed it with the picture. You can enlarge the hole slightly and put a grommet in it. I saw the hole in your second picture. Look to the left of the brake hose, it is slightly covered by something. That's the hole I used, or you can holesaw one down lower if you like, or you could just kick it out around the flange, and carry on. Like I said, mine's not the only way to do it, but it tucked in nice and neat. Then I just ty-wrapped the battery cable to the fuel line, and used some one hole straps too......

Headed out to the garage, will take a picture for you.

UMMM..Tedi...new Church Boys lower control arms......:eek:
Okay, spill it bro.....


T,


T

Here's some pictures, you can see the old line clamp. You could prolly drill a hole, I just used this one........

Don't mind the dirt....it's on my "to do" list.........:D

T,

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/001-1.jpg

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/002.jpg

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn59/tmtuma/003.jpg

Here are the pics of the new stuff... I guess this should have gone on page one. I did not take a pic of the ididit column, I forgot.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack006.jpg

Driver side stuff
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack007.jpg

Passenger side stuff
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack008.jpg

Well I got some time in the garage today, at least a few minutes. I had my helpers right there with me. The plan was to get that driver side header outa the way and use Chucks method.

Had to add a large block to get the car up high enough.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack012.jpg

The helpers!!:D
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack013.jpg

The plugs, steering and oil filter were gone and the header was ready for removal. Man Chuck didn’t really now how high off the ground I needed the car, WOW!!:eek: It looked good to go and Bang!! The dang brake line up top was in the way:mad: Not good.

It's time to go in and eat. I do need to go into work for some OT tonight. Bummer deal....
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack016.jpg

Hey those look like some talented helpers you have there! Dang you are so close to having that header laying on the floor..........who would of thaught.
Bummer. Everything is looking really good. I like the all black style.

Got it out :D:yes::D Just a shim tight getting that second primary tube by the steering box. It only left a tiny nick of a scratch. No to set this thing up on jack stands I guess:confused: I really don’t like getting under the car with jack stands but when the wheels and suspension need to be off there is no other way. Well I guess I could get a lift for the garage. Not sure the wife would go for that one:no:

Sorry for the slow roll with this job but its just that way its got to be for me :D Thx for that info Chuck, the header actually came out with the oil filter on. After draining all the oil I replaced the filter lightly to stop any further leaking and forgot it on during the removal. Never hurts to have a fresh pan of oil for the next start up:thumbsup:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack018.jpg

Good post. I'll be following along closely. In the next few weeks I'm going to install the CPP upper and lowers. No Church rack installation....maybe next year. I plan on using the springs and shocks that are currently in the car. Any issues with that? I know that Walt recommends new coil overs but they aren't quite in the budget.
Also, no headers on my car.

No issues at all with the stock upper arms, springs or shocks........just make a mental note, you can't use anything but Nova style spindles (dropped or stock) with this conversion, I found out the hard way on my buddy's car, you can't get the caster/camber right.....:eek:


Keep us posted, we like pictures.....:D


T

......don't mean to hijack the post. I have the correct Nova spindles. I noticed you said there are no issues if I use the 'stock upper arms, springs and shocks'. I plan on installing the CPP tubular uppers and lowers. Do you mean I can't use the new CPP's for the uppers?

You can use either the stock uppers, or the CPP uppers. Won't affect the rest of the install.

Good post. I'll be following along closely. In the next few weeks I'm going to install the CPP upper and lowers. No Church rack installation....maybe next year. I plan on using the springs and shocks that are currently in the car. Any issues with that? I know that Walt recommends new coil overs but they aren't quite in the budget.
Also, no headers on my car.


I know it may be in the future for the rack install but you will need to be using the proper arms to work with the rack conversion. The standard CPP arms will not work. Getting the proper arms now will save you a little money in the future.

Yes!! Make sure to order the kit from Walt so that you can get the CB lowers:yes:

Thanks Gents. Yep, I ordered from Walt. First class advice, service and products.

can't wait to see the finished product.

Hey there. Well I work Mon Tues and Wed 6a to 6p so it’s tough getting into the garage on those days. However, I did get out there for an hour or so last night:D Kids were very tired and hit the sac early for me to get in the garage.

I got the car up on jack stands, took the wheels off and started on the removal of the steering box. I just got a larger set of jack stands today that I think I will add or replace tonight. Did I ever mention I hate working under a car on jack stands:eek:?

Anyway, the three bolts on the steering box came right out with no hassle. The box is loose but seems like there is something else holding it in place. I realize I need to get the steering wheel off but it doesn’t swing toward the center very easy to pass by the frame for the slide out. I am going to try to get out there again tonight and take off the steering wheel. Is there anything tricky with that removal? Thx and here are some pics from last night.

Stock stuff.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/B4shots002.jpg

Stock stuff.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/B4shots001.jpg

Old steering box and master.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/B4shots003.jpg

Take your driver side motor mount lose on the frame two bolts and jack it up a little that will help a lot.

Once I get the steering wheel off, will it just angle and pull out from the bottom? Would it be easier to just cut the column? I sure hope to never need it again:D

You will need to remove the floor plate to allow for enough movement on the column shaft. I normally remove the steering wheel first, and then the steering column. Then once you unbolt the steering box (which you have already done) there should be plenty of room to get the box & shaft out.

Got it!! :confused: I hope! I will attempt to get some garage time tonight and work inside the car on the steering wheel and column. Thx!!!!!!!!!

Take your driver side motor mount lose on the frame two bolts and jack it up a little that will help a lot.

Hey 3DTim, what shock towers are those?

You will need to remove the floor plate to allow for enough movement on the column shaft. I normally remove the steering wheel first, and then the steering column. Then once you unbolt the steering box (which you have already done) there should be plenty of room to get the box & shaft out.

Any tips on the removal process of the steering wheel and column would be great. I might get some time to work on it tonight. Thx Smitty

You may need a puller to get the steering wheel off.You can try to loosen the nut and pull hard on the wheel,sometimes this will pop the wheel loose.I think you remove the under dash strap and remove the outer column shell from the top,you must unplug the T/S switch wires first.You will need to remove the plate attached to the floor/firewall to get the box out.

Hey 3DTim, what shock towers are those?

Mine shock towers are stock. Most guys do not like them. But I like all the curves.

Mine shock towers are stock. Most guys do not like them. But I like all the curves.

I might be off on the name here. The thing that the front shock mounts to at the top. Mine look like cones and are very pointy / sharp and can really ding up the arms when not paying attention. Yours look much lower profile and neat.

You may need a puller to get the steering wheel off.You can try to loosen the nut and pull hard on the wheel,sometimes this will pop the wheel loose.I think you remove the under dash strap and remove the outer column shell from the top,you must unplug the T/S switch wires first.You will need to remove the plate attached to the floor/firewall to get the box out.

Thank you very much 404!! I am beat :sleep: and did not make it to the garage tonight. I will post again when I can make some progress :waving:.

Brownie points for you on an EXCELLENT installation! Looks Great!

Might want to paint those calipers though but other than that it's REALLY good!

Good Job!:thumbsup:

John

Brownie points for you on an EXCELLENT installation! Looks Great!

Might want to paint those calipers though but other than that it's REALLY good!

Good Job!:thumbsup:

John

I think these are the before pictures:rolleyes::rolleyes:

I think these are the before pictures:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Yes VooDoo, Im at a snails pace with this one:salute: I hope to turn some wrenches SOON!!!

Yes VooDoo, Im at a snails pace with this one:salute: I hope to turn some wrenches SOON!!!

I know what you mean, I'm crawling at a snails pace myself:D

I might be off on the name here. The thing that the front shock mounts to at the top. Mine look like cones and are very pointy / sharp and can really ding up the arms when not paying attention. Yours look much lower profile and neat.

Sorry those are auto fab came as a kit with the my QA1 Coil Overs.

You may need a puller to get the steering wheel off.You can try to loosen the nut and pull hard on the wheel,sometimes this will pop the wheel loose.I think you remove the under dash strap and remove the outer column shell from the top,you must unplug the T/S switch wires first.You will need to remove the plate attached to the floor/firewall to get the box out.

Well I got some time today:D. I did need the puller :yes: and the steering wheel was off in seconds. I took the under dash strap off and every thing became very loose. I looked down at the floor/firewall and there doesn’t seem to me anything holding the bottom of the column there on my car??:confused:?? I did unplug a few things off of the column.

I got the blinker assembly and outer/upper shell off without a problem. I am now stuck at the lower cover:mad:. It looks like my car was a column shift and this is where I am stuck. I attached a few pics to give an idea of what I am talking about. It moves up and down the shaft only about an inch. I have no idea what it is hanging up one. I think this is all that is keeping the whole thing from coming out the bottom. Thx for your help :thumbsup:… Smitty

Here is where the column shift use to be. How the heck do I get this off?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/steeringwheelremoval006.jpg

Here is a nother shot of the same thing.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/steeringwheelremoval011.jpg

Now I feel better about getting under there. Once I can get that darn steering column ready to drop out thing should start moving a bit....

I got some large jack stands and moved the little one back a bit. I think the car is pretty stable now:D

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/onjackstands001.jpg

I don't think that car will move now, when your done you want to come and help me out:D:D

JR, the progress looks good. As for the column I havn't taken apart a column shift column, so I do not know what may hangning up inside. Once the correct person chimes in and sheds some light you will beable to slide it off of the shaft.

Once the column is off you will need to remove the gauge to the left of the column. The shaft will need to slide all the way over to the door to achieve the correct angle for the steering box to clear inside the engine bay.

You may want to open a new post and ask if anyone has remove a column shift column and how they did it. Wish I could help but never done one.

Great idea!!:thumbsup:!!

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1000745#post1000745

Okay, well I finally got to get back in the garage for a few tonight, minutes that is:( Anyway, I was able to pop the pin out and the shift lever came right off. Once the shift lever was off the outer shell slid right off along with the entire column. Now the steering shaft and box is all that needs to go. I guess this is where I need to go back into the engine bay and see if I can get the box over and down in order to pull the whole kit and caboodle out from the bottom. Tomorrow??? I hope!!

Here are the latest pics.

Here is the pin that needed to come out.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/shifterremoval001.jpg

This is what was holding this last part on. It is the inside of the actual shifter.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/shifterremoval005.jpg

Looks ready to come out!!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/shifterremoval009.jpg

Make it easy on yourself. Take a grinder,and slice the shaft. I watch Chuck and the boys fight mine. Its a pain.

JR, in your last photo I can still see the tin plate bolted up to the floor pan. You will need to remove this, it will give you just a little more drop for the steering box. Also like I said before take the gauge off. Next you will push the steering shaft all the way over to the door, this will help the steering box to clear the shock tower. With that little plate off of the floor you will now beable to get the steering box down below the motor mount and engine. Kind of like taking your header off it just squeeks by.

ill give it a try to get it out in one piece but if it give me any trouble the grinder is coming out:yes: thx for the tips!!!

if it give me any trouble the grinder is coming out:yes: thx for the tips!!!

Just use a jackhammer:eek::eek::rolleyes::no::no::D

not to change the subject but how do you like that milodon pan? is there enough room for the linkage to go thru and move on turns?

not to change the subject but how do you like that milodon pan? is there enough room for the linkage to go thru and move on turns?

I like the pan. It works great and hold a decent amount of oil. I think 7 qts? I just drained it and am going to measure the amount I took out just to be sure when it is time to refill. I will be changing pans once the new rack is installed, no need for the hole for the drag link. The pan will be put in the for sale section if you r interested.

What’s the easiest way to remove the stock springs? I’m out there now working on it :D

I also need to remove the master cylinder. Is there an easy way or any tips for the removal as well? Thx

If your springs are stock length you will a spring compressor for sure.If you have cut springs undo the shocks and see if there is tension on the springs,if not you should be able to remove them easily.Master is straight forward just make sure you use a line wrench on the line fittings or you may round them off.I use this spring compressor.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/Car%20show%20pictures/100_1633.jpg

I just took the shock off and it doesn’t seem like there is much tension on the spring. I can pry the bottom up pretty easy. I’m wondering if I should just try to undo the two bolts at the bottom of the spring. I may just loosen one to see what it wants to do. Has any gotten away with doing this way? I know these things can get ugly and I don’t want to have a spring flying through my garage. There really doesn’t seem like there is much tension though after I unhooked the top of the shock:confused::confused: Ill go see.

If there is very little tension you should be ok,BE CAREFUL.It is a judgnement call.Do you have the spindles removed yet? This may allow the control arm to drop a little more.I know CPP drop springs will basicly fall out.I had 6 cylinder springs with 1 coil? cut out and I needed a compressor.

Well I got some time today to work on the car:D:D
Nova 404 thx for your help. I went to go loosen those two bolts at the bottom of the spring and WOW they are tight:eek: I ended up bustin out the air tools and stripped the dang bolt head:mad: Now plan B time. I think I will wait and get a spring compressor and then deal with the tight bolts once the spring is outa there.

Here is a pic of the two bolts im talking about.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/stocksprings001.jpg

Also, how the heck to these come off? The bolt that the nut is one is spinning as I turn it. I cant seem to figure out where the bolt is. Is it accessible once the spring is out? Here is a pic...
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/stocksprings002.jpg

Thx Chuck!! Again the steering box instructions you provided me worked to the T. I just added a towel so not to scratch up the dash, but it is outa there!!:yes:!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/Steeringbox002.jpg

i also got the stock strut rods off today. Thx again for all the input and advice!!:thumbsup:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/Stockstrutrods002.jpg

Those upper shock mount bolts have a small square like a carage head bolt that is supposed to lock into the slot in the shock tower.I would spray them with penetrating oil of some kind and then slide a small screw driver or brake spoon in and push the head up to try to get it to lock.Possibly an impact gun may pop the nuts right off.It is a lame design.

Well I got some time today to work on the car:D:D
Nova 404 thx for your help. I went to go loosen those two bolts at the bottom of the spring and WOW they are tight:eek: I ended up bustin out the air tools and stripped the dang bolt head:mad: Now plan B time. I think I will wait and get a spring compressor and then deal with the tight bolts once the spring is outa there.

Here is a pic of the two bolts im talking about.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/stocksprings001.jpg



The two bolts have splines near the head, so you can't run the bolt head, turn the nut from the bottom, and lift the spring perch off once you remove the spring.

Use the spring compressor, those springs will take your head off, even if you can lift them a little, put the compressor on there for safety. I hate taking springs out...scary man....

T,

You are getting there. Me I am cutting up tree limbs lots of tree limbs.

Those upper shock mount bolts have a small square like a carage head bolt that is supposed to lock into the slot in the shock tower.I would spray them with penetrating oil of some kind and then slide a small screw driver or brake spoon in and push the head up to try to get it to lock.Possibly an impact gun may pop the nuts right off.It is a lame design.[QUOTE]

Mine are painted so I am not sure how the penetrating oil will work. What is a brake spoon? I will try the impact gun on them:D Thx for the tips!!


[QUOTE=TomM;1010119]The two bolts have splines near the head, so you can't run the bolt head, turn the nut from the bottom, and lift the spring perch off once you remove the spring.

Use the spring compressor, those springs will take your head off, even if you can lift them a little, put the compressor on there for safety. I hate taking springs out...scary man....

T,

I am unfamiliar with the bolts having splines, but I will try to get the nuts off the back once the spring is off. I’m looking at getting the spring compressor tonight. These uppers look pretty old and beat up, is there a benefit to getting the uppers as well?

Off subject but, how do you QUOTE more than one person? I see it done and think it is great not to have to make a different post for each response. I tried with Nova404 but it obviously did not work:confused:Thx!!

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/LIS-50700.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT265_pg22.htm&usg=__w5dBLQz5IOgcq9Wo40cvmsvUbt4=&h=79&w=300&sz=4&hl=en&start=3&um=1&tbnid=AKwmLAq-vViQZM:&tbnh=31&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbrake%2Bspoon%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa %3DN

Brake spoon,it is sort of like a mini pry bar used for adjusting drum brakes.You just need to find something to force the heads of the bolts in place to lock them.Your new coilovers will use regular bolts and you may have to grind a 1/2 inch wrench thinner to tighten the new ones down.It is also possible that your have had regular bolts installed already but it is very hard to see in there.

Off subject but, how do you QUOTE more than one person? I see it done and think it is great not to have to make a different post for each response. I tried with Nova404 but it obviously did not work:confused:Thx!!


Instead of hitting the Quote button hit the "multi off" button instead, it will change to "multi on". So when you go to the bottom of the thread and hit the "post reply" button all of the quoted people that you hit the "multi" button will show up as quotes in one post. If you can make sense of that reply you will not have any problems.

I just took the shock off and it doesn’t seem like there is much tension on the spring. I can pry the bottom up pretty easy. I’m wondering if I should just try to undo the two bolts at the bottom of the spring. I may just loosen one to see what it wants to do. Has any gotten away with doing this way? I know these things can get ugly and I don’t want to have a spring flying through my garage. There really doesn’t seem like there is much tension though after I unhooked the top of the shock:confused::confused: Ill go see.

Answered below.

[QUOTE] Those upper shock mount bolts have a small square like a carage head bolt that is supposed to lock into the slot in the shock tower.I would spray them with penetrating oil of some kind and then slide a small screw driver or brake spoon in and push the head up to try to get it to lock.Possibly an impact gun may pop the nuts right off.It is a lame design.[QUOTE]

Mine are painted so I am not sure how the penetrating oil will work. What is a brake spoon? I will try the impact gun on them:D Thx for the tips!!




I am unfamiliar with the bolts having splines, but I will try to get the nuts off the back once the spring is off. I’m looking at getting the spring compressor tonight. These uppers look pretty old and beat up, is there a benefit to getting the uppers as well?

Brake adjusting tool...

Off subject but, how do you QUOTE more than one person? I see it done and think it is great not to have to make a different post for each response. I tried with Nova404 but it obviously did not work:confused:Thx!!

You mean like this, just click the "multi off" button, lower right of each post, to show 'multi on". Do this on each reply you want to answer, then hit "post reply", bottom left, like you always do. Just be sure to type your reply between each quote, or it will come out all together. Easy huh.....:D

T,

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/LIS-50700.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT265_pg22.htm&usg=__w5dBLQz5IOgcq9Wo40cvmsvUbt4=&h=79&w=300&sz=4&hl=en&start=3&um=1&tbnid=AKwmLAq-vViQZM:&tbnh=31&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbrake%2Bspoon%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa %3DN



Brake spoon,it is sort of like a mini pry bar used for adjusting drum brakes.You just need to find something to force the heads of the bolts in place to lock them.Your new coilovers will use regular bolts and you may have to grind a 1/2 inch wrench thinner to tighten the new ones down.It is also possible that your have had regular bolts installed already but it is very hard to see in there. Ill look for one of those brake spoon things. Thx!

Instead of hitting the Quote button hit the "multi off" button instead, it will change to "multi on". So when you go to the bottom of the thread and hit the "post reply" button all of the quoted people that you hit the "multi" button will show up as quotes in one post. If you can make sense of that reply you will not have any problems.
Like this?? Sweet I think I got it. Thx. Now to get this stock stuff off so I can start doing some real work:D

Now to get this stock stuff off so I can start doing some real work:D

You'll get a heck of a lot more work done when ya get off of here:eek::D

Put your hands up slowly and step away from the computer.

Now walk out to the garage and..........
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GET TO WORK;):D:D

Maybe he has a laptop out in the garage and is multi-tasking.:D

He is getting there. Moving faster than me right now. Power on Power off Power on Power off. 50 deg's yesterday 17 deg's today. Man driving me nuts. But the poor guy working on the power are have a hard time with it all this wind I fell for them and they are doing a great job getting people peoples power back on. I am on the main line so ever time they go to turn on a line they trun mine off fun.

If your springs are stock length you will a spring compressor for sure.If you have cut springs undo the shocks and see if there is tension on the springs,if not you should be able to remove them easily.Master is straight forward just make sure you use a line wrench on the line fittings or you may round them off.I use this spring compressor.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/Car%20show%20pictures/100_1633.jpg

That thing looks dangerous :eek:. I used this one from Chevy2Only. It's designed for a gen1,2.
http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/414243133_xV9jY-M.jpg

I have used it for years without any issues.The one you have does look like a better design.

Maybe he has a laptop out in the garage and is multi-tasking.:D

Yes I do!!:D I got a spring compressor today and will try to get those suckers off tomorrow. I will be here late tonight at work, :( bummer.

That thing looks dangerous :eek:. I used this one from Chevy2Only. It's designed for a gen1,2.
http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/414243133_xV9jY-M.jpg

I just built one like the one from C2O. Really was pretty easy. The only cost was a rod end, all-thread and some scraps of 1/4" plate. Works great.

I just built one like the one from C2O. Really was pretty easy. The only cost was a rod end, all-thread and some scraps of 1/4" plate. Works great.

Lets see some pics :yes:

Man I almost have all my stuff. I have the crossmember coming in tomorrow! Soon I will start and post some pics!

-Justin

Sounds good Justin, I can't wait to see some pictures.

Lets see some pics :yes:

Man I almost have all my stuff. I have the crossmember coming in tomorrow! Soon I will start and post some pics!

-Justin

You are going to pass me up :eek: Im working some more OT tonight in the rain:( Yippi, NOT. Im sure tomorrow the springs are coming off along with the those stock lower deals.

That thing looks dangerous :eek:. I used this one from Chevy2Only. It's designed for a gen1,2.
http://goingright.smugmug.com/photos/414243133_xV9jY-M.jpg

Will the Chevy2Only compressor work with any springs?

-Justin

Ijust finished the install on my subframe kit today. Looks really nice cpp does good work. Now I need to decide if I am going manual rack or power so i can order the kit from church boys. One thing I did notice is I have a whole lot of bolts and washers left over did anyone else notice this?

Shawn

Here is what I found to get my srings out. Sure made it easy :yes:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/springremoval004.jpg

The springs are outa there :D

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/springremoval005.jpg

Ijust finished the install on my subframe kit today. Looks really nice cpp does good work. Now I need to decide if I am going manual rack or power so i can order the kit from church boys. One thing I did notice is I have a whole lot of bolts and washers left over did anyone else notice this?

Shawn

Yeah, I had an extra set of lower a-arm bolts and misc. washers left over, seems they give you a little exrta sometimes...:D

T,

I started tearing into my front end today like Smitty is doing. It's coming apart easier than expected. One thing I noticed is my strut rods are identical to Smitty's. However, the instructions say something about air hammering the rivets out. My car is a '63.......could it be the '63's didn't use rivets to hold the struts in?

Someone may have done it already, usually they are riveted from the factory. Might have been in a wreck, front end rebuild, who knows. Consider yourself lucky if they were bolted....the rivets were a PITA....:D

T,

Ya!! Be very thankfull they are not riveted in like others have mentioned. Im heading back out there to tackle some more removal:D

Quick question. Anyone who has done the ChurchBoy R/P....

The new bolts that I got for the new steering arms have a flat washer and a lock washer. I just need to know the order they go one the arm. Here are a few pictures. Thx!! This prob should be obvious but I was not 100% sure :confused:

Should it go bolt, flat washer, spindle, steering arm, lock washer then nut?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/newsteeringarm002.jpg

Or bolt, spindle, flat washer, steering arm, lock washer then nut?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/newsteeringarm003.jpg

Or bolt, spindle, steeirng arm, flat washer, lock washer then nut?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/newsteeringarm004.jpg

The thick washer goes between the spindle and the steering arm so the arm will bolt up square to the spindle.If it is not there the upper hoop of the arm will hit the spindle before the bolts pull up tight.Hope I am not to late just got off work.

Lets see some pics :yes:

Man I almost have all my stuff. I have the crossmember coming in tomorrow! Soon I will start and post some pics!

-Justin

Here is a picture of the spring compressor I made. I just noticed my "pivot" is 180 degrees from theirs. It didn't seem to matter.

I just figured out how to post pictures. Here is one of my 67 in its current state...................

Perfect time to do a CB R&P conversion, right? I just can't make my mind up to do it. I get kinda funny about making modifications to my babe. But from what I understand it is worth it.

I have a 65 in the "On deck circle" that I have no reservations about modifying a little. I will definately want to do the CB stuff.

You need the IMG Code, your pictures are not working.

The thick washer goes between the spindle and the steering arm so the arm will bolt up square to the spindle.If it is not there the upper hoop of the arm will hit the spindle before the bolts pull up tight.Hope I am not to late just got off work.

I did notice that. Thx for gettin back!!:thumbsup:

Now did I read somewhere that the crossmember should go up after the lower A arms? I will attemt to get the last of the stock stuff off tomorrow, the lower A arm..... Thx again for all the help. Sorry for the slow motion procedure :(

Yes put the CPP plate and arms in place first.It is a b!tch to get to the bolts with the tubular cross member in place.I changed my arms after the cross member was installed and scratched the heck out of it dealing with the lower arm bolts.

Bummer deal on all the scratches :mad:. I will try to get out there and get those stock lowers off. I will start the new stuff with the lowers and the front plate. Thx!:D!

Thanks again Brian for answering J.R.'s question:yes:

In the future if there happens to be any questions please call my number below in my sig. I can help you out on the spot and then when you get a chance you can post the question for others to read.

Thanks again Brian for answering J.R.'s question:yes:

In the future if there happens to be any questions please call my number below in my sig. I can help you out on the spot and then when you get a chance you can post the question for others to read.

Awesome!! Chuck, I thought about calling but wasn’t sure of the time difference and all. Ill shoot ya a call next time, then post up the question. Thx JR

Smitty, I don't want to hijack your post but it's interesting to see we are more or less doing the same conversion. Except I have to postone the Church Boys rack and pinion to next year. Today I removed the front suspension of my '63 convert. It came out without a hitch. It was good to have a helping hand though from a fellow club member! The first pic is how the suspension looked at 8am this morning. You will have to turn your screeen or head to the right to see it in the actual position.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8003.jpg
Next are the parts to be installed...........
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8004.jpg
We made our own spring compressor by using a piece of threaded rod, 5 nuts and washers and some heavy duty plate. The first pic is how we insterted the rod through the shock tower and the second is the two pieces of heavy plate placed between some coils. By turning the nut on the shock tower, it pulled the spring up and released the tension. Once we pulled it from the lower control arm, we reversed the direction and eased the coil's tension. I sanded them and repainted them this afternoon.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8005.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8006.jpg
Before I had to run home for the household errands, I trial fitted the front crossmember/plate. Fits like a glove!!
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8008.jpg

I repainted the inside of the fenders (they were coated with some type of undercoating) and called it a day.
Next weekend, the installation of the uppers and lowers!:D

Thanks for allowing me to sneak in these pics. In just this one thread, it's helped me understand how to do this and do it properly.

36couper you are correct Smittys62 is doing an awesome job of narrating and photgraphing every step of the way.

I noticed that you mentioned holding off on the Church Boys conversion till next year.............are your lower arms the standard arms or the Church arms that are need to go along with the r/p conversion? If not, you may want to explore your options before you get those arms installed. Either way keep us all informed of your progress:yes:

Chuck, thanks for the tip. They are the CPP lower arms. Clearly I need to talk to you in more detail.........

I started tearing into my front end today like Smitty is doing. It's coming apart easier than expected. One thing I noticed is my strut rods are identical to Smitty's. However, the instructions say something about air hammering the rivets out. My car is a '63.......could it be the '63's didn't use rivets to hold the struts in?

Just an FYI, early first Gens were bolted, not riveted.

Thanks. The bolts saved me a ton of time. I had the front end out in no time flat.

Just an FYI, early first Gens were bolted, not riveted.

undercvrSS:

If what you say is true my '64 went down the wrong assembly line.

Wish it hadn't as I'd rather be looking at bolts instead of rivets.

36couper you are correct Smittys62 is doing an awesome job of narrating and photgraphing every step of the way.

I noticed that you mentioned holding off on the Church Boys conversion till next year.............are your lower arms the standard arms or the Church arms that are need to go along with the r/p conversion? If not, you may want to explore your options before you get those arms installed. Either way keep us all informed of your progress:yes:

In his pic they do look like your lowers:D

Chuck, thanks for the tip. They are the CPP lower arms. Clearly I need to talk to you in more detail.........
I think he was meaning, R they the ChurchBoy lowers:confused:
undercvrSS:

If what you say is true my '64 went down the wrong assembly line.

Wish it hadn't as I'd rather be looking at bolts instead of rivets.
I understand that the 62s and 63s might of been the early years undercvrSS was talking bout.,.,??

yes, 62-63 were bolt on. Thats what I meant by early years first gens.

Time away from the home front. Been out at Silent Valley Club with the new travel trailer. Hope to get back on the Nova soon!!!

Smitty62.....looking forward to seeing yours finished. I finished off installing the new CPP uppers and lowers yesterday. They went in like a hot knife through butter. High quality parts that fit as they should. Now I need to see if my front sway bar will fit.......
This is what I started with
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb8004-1.jpg
Finished:http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb14003.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaSuspensionFeb14001.jpg

Now I'm on installing my new Clarion radio!

Smitty62.....looking forward to seeing yours finished. I finished off installing the new CPP uppers and lowers yesterday. They went in like a hot knife through butter. High quality parts that fit as they should. Now I need to see if my front sway bar will fit.......
those look different when installed. i thought you had ChurchBoy arms in the first pic, but the one where they are installed they look like the standard CPP arm???

Those are not churchboys arms. No bend.

I may end up redoing the front suspension next year with the Church Boys gear.
One thing I noticed though when trying to grease the uppers is the grease would not fill the rubber boot. Rather, it squirts out between the ball joint where it's bolted to the upper portion of the control arm. Let me know if anyone else has had this problem.....

I had the same problem. I used a needle that adapts to the grease fitting and poked it directly in :turn:. Did the trick.

Surfdog.........thanks for the tip. I'll try it this weekend.

Hey!! I was out in the garage today and am starting to get some new stuff bolted on:D I just put the CPP front plate up and noticed that some installed it with the bolts on top and the nuts at the bottom. :confused: Not sure it really matters, looks cleaner with the bolt going up from the bottom and the nut on top, at least on those front four.

Chuck on your pics of your Dads ride you done have the front four bolts even on:confused: guess these were just mock up pics.

The next question is: On the lower control arms, which way should the cam bolts be installed? Looks like it is 50 - 50 some go from the front to the back and some do the opposite? Chuck, I notice you went from the back to the front. Is this because of a clearance issue with your cross member? I have it so I was just going to put my cam bolts in like yours are pictured. Pls let me know before I synch every thing down.

I did hear on here somewhere that it makes life a lot easier to install the lower CPP arms before the cross member, Correct???? Thx!!!

Yes it is easier to put the control arms on first.I put my cam bolt through from the front because I thought the head of the bolt looked cleaner than the nit an washers.The bolts for the CPP plate are very close to the lower tank of the radiator so I thing those ones must go down from the top.If you put the cam bolts in from behind you will be able to remove them with the rack and cross member in place if you needed to in the future.

Thx, I put the front CAM bolts in from the front and the rear ones in from the back. Looks like this way I can remove them if needed while the new CB cross member and rack is in place. I think I have room for the nuts on top as I am running the Summit radiator, I will double check that:eek: Thx for the tip.

As for the CAM bolts go, do the rounds cams have to either both be to the bottom or both to the top? It seems that they fit nice on the front CPP mountt but are very tight fitting in the stock rear location. Is it not a good idea to just use the stock CAM bolts for the rear location? Thx again!!!:D I really want to get that cross member and rack up there today. Kids will be up anytime:eek::mad:

The cam position is not real critical as it will change depending on what it takes to align your car.As I recall there is some reason why you can not use the stock cams,I think the diameter of the bolt shanks is to big on the stock one.One tip you might want to add a 1/8 or 1/16 shim to the front bolt of the upper arm,this will allow you a little more caster than the CPP arms will allow.The bushings on the CPP arms bind up at around 1.3-1.7 degrees positive caster and 2.0 -3.0 is more desirable.

Well, I finally got some time out in the garage:D I got the stock lower A arms off today.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers003.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers001.jpg

I decided to remove the radiator for ease of installation of the CPP plate.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers002.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers006.jpg

I also went with nuts up on the mounting of the plate. No problem with the Summit radiator with 66RICH mounts. I think it looks a tad cleaner from the bottom with just a bolt head showing.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers009.jpg


I was also able to get the new lower A arms on. Not sure about the can bolts but this is what they look like.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers008.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPlowers010.jpg

I was unable to get the CB cross member and rack on :mad: Kids woke just as I was holding it in place:no: Soon enough:D

Cams............put them up in the pocket so they are not hanging down. Don't sweat the kids they grow up too fast:yes:

Seems like when I went to put the CAMS in the up position, they wanted to bind against the top of the CPP plate? I will try it again next time out. Thx

You will get just take your time. Looks good form this end.

For got,,,, quik quostion: CPP provided 14 7/16-14Gr 8 bolts with nuts and washers. I only used 10 today on the lower plate. Where do the other 4 go??:confused:??

There hardware bags vary alot,some have extra and some are short.Did you put the 4 in the ball joints where the old strut rods bolted up?2 bolts each side I do not know if they are needed but they were there from the factory.

Where the new ball joint is on the lower A arms? Those were already bolted on from CPP. Not sure where else these particular bolts, washers and nuts whould be needed:confused: The very detailed directions :eek: did not mention where to put what. I know this is not rocket science but when there are extra nuts and bolts laying around it makes me think:D "Wad I 4get"

Smitty.........I had a few of extra Grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers left too. I would say at least 6 of each. It could be CPP just grabs a handful of each and tosses them in the bag. I looked over the installation about 5 times and came to the conclusion that CPP is just generous with nuts and bolts.:D

Sounds like they have a quality control problem. Nice that they are generous with extra bolts but if every set they sent out were right on it would save confusion and help to keep pricing down.
My kit is still sitting on the shelf, I will have to check it when I get to that stage:rolleyes::)

The 4 "extra" bolts/nuts/washers are for the lower ball joints. I believe there are provisions for eight, but thats a bit overkill. CPP does not just throw a handful of hardware in the box and tape it up!:no:

My eccentrics touched the top of the CPP plate as well, so I left them 180 deg out hanging on the bottom side instead. Its no biggie and wont affect your alignment at all.

The 4 "extra" bolts/nuts/washers are for the lower ball joints. I believe there are provisions for eight, but thats a bit overkill. CPP does not just throw a handful of hardware in the box and tape it up!:no:

My eccentrics touched the top of the CPP plate as well, so I left them 180 deg out hanging on the bottom side instead. Its no biggie and wont affect your alignment at all.

There hardware bags vary alot,some have extra and some are short.Did you put the 4 in the ball joints where the old strut rods bolted up?2 bolts each side I do not know if they are needed but they were there from the factory.

the lower ball joints?:confused:? Is this what you guys are talking about? Am I blind or stupid or both? My new lower CB A arms came with the ball joints bolted on from CPP. Again, I am new at this stuff so pls help:eek: If these 4 bolts, washers and nuts need to go somewhere I want to put them there. Thx!!!

Here is a pic I posted earlier on, is this even the lower ball joint you guys are talking about??? It looks like there are three already installed on each.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPCBRack008.jpg

My eccentrics touched the top of the CPP plate as well, so I left them 180 deg out hanging on the bottom side instead. Its no biggie and wont affect your alignment at all.

THX! Brian... Hey where is your write up on your install you did a few years back? I thought I had it saved but cant find it...:confused: The only one I could find was your upper A arm install. I thought you did a CPP lower A arm install write up??

There hardware bags vary alot,some have extra and some are short.Did you put the 4 in the ball joints where the old strut rods bolted up?2 bolts each side I do not know if they are needed but they were there from the factory.

The old strut rods? The new CPP plate took up most of those spots and the two that were on the old lower A arm are not used on the new lowers, are they?

My write-up is in "best of s&s" here:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36016

There are 4 extra bolt holes for each ball joint. I put two bolts staggered on each side for extra ball joint support.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/cpp_ball_joint.jpg

I had 4 bolt left over and a ton of washers left over I could have put 2 extra washers per bolt with as many as I had left over. It still seems like they just add extra in the bags to me.

Shawn

I had 4 bolt left over and a ton of washers left over I could have put 2 extra washers per bolt with as many as I had left over. It still seems like they just add extra in the bags to me.

Shawn

Or you didnt install all your washers...:devil:

My write-up is in "best of s&s" here:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36016

There are 4 extra bolt holes for each ball joint. I put two bolts staggered on each side for extra ball joint support.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/NOGO12s/cpp_ball_joint.jpg

:yes::yes:
Exactly what I did.

That way ya have more than those 3 little bolts holding your ball joint in place.

I've actually wondered how many people didn't do it when installing the mini sub-frame kit. Remember for a while, there were people complaining about the little bolts breaking off after they did an install and then drove it. I think there might be a little too much stress on those 3 little bolts.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01577.jpg

These are the bolts we are talking about

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01577.jpg

These are the bolts we are talking about

EXACTLY! BTW- Do you ever drive your car? Its too darn clean!!!;)

Yea I do most of the stuff pictured is new.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/DSC01577.jpg

These are the bolts we are talking about


Awesome :thumbsup: Thx guys!!! If that is in fact where they re to go, it would of been to read that in the instalation paperwork:rolleyes: And also, there being 4 holes per side, why not give us the correct amount? Oh well, I will bu tthose suckers in as soon as I get another minute in the garage :notworthy:.

Going to hit the garage for a few. Ill get those 4 bolts put in and mount up the new CB cross member and rack. Looks like it might be time to pull out the new ididit column and start messin with that as well. :D

I may be chiming to late, but four washers are to be placed between the eccentric washers and the mounting plate as per the instructions. If not in position, there is a great deal of friction between the eccentrics and the mounting bracket and you will break numerous eccentric cams while aligning your car. I even tack welded the cam to the bolt to prevent fracturing the cams.

like this?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3667.jpg

Well I was able to get the CB cross member and rack up today. i also tightened up the eccentrics and all the other nuts and bolts. I put the tie rod ends on the rack and connected the steering arms. Thx Chuck, looks like the 4 spacers came in handy for me. i think they are the perfect fit!! Here are some pics of todays progress.

Check out that rack:D
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3657.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3656.jpg

Hey Chuck, does this look right? http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3659.jpg

Oh and I put those "extra" nut and bolts to use :D http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3661.jpg

Okay, now how the heck do these come off?:confused:? Mine are painted on and are not wanting to come off very easy. I have tried to wedge the bottom of the head so that the nut will spin off with negative results. Any tips here would be greatly appreciated. Is it cutting time?:eek:?
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CIMG3665.jpg

@Smittys62:

Yeah, I think almost everybody here on the board who has been dealing with the front suspension got some gray hair from these...
If the heads start spinning in there and you can't get the screws loose the way you wrote, you have to carefully cut off at least three of them - the last one can be pushed out together with the tower.
For reassembly ou can buy better replacement at the next home depot.

Greetz

Boris

Use a screwdriver to wedge the bolts in and break the nuts loose. Dont cut anything!!! You can get them out even though its a PIA!

What 4 spacers came in handy??? Just curious...

Use a screwdriver to wedge the bolts in and break the nuts loose. Dont cut anything!!! You can get them out even though its a PIA!

What 4 spacers came in handy??? Just curious...

Not sure what you're using, but use the screwdriver method, and an impact. A rachet or wrench won't cut it.

Not sure what you're using, but use the screwdriver method, and an impact. A rachet or wrench won't cut it.

X10 on that.:yes:

Use a screwdriver to wedge the bolts in and break the nuts loose. Dont cut anything!!! You can get them out even though its a PIA!

What 4 spacers came in handy??? Just curious...

see 3rd picture of post 161. It allows the castle nut to tighten up just right for the cotter pin location. At least that is what i thought they were for?:D

Not sure what you're using, but use the screwdriver method, and an impact. A rachet or wrench won't cut it.

X10 on that.:yes:

Sounds good! The ol screwdriver trick did not work for me. I think and hope that the impact will be the perfect remidy here:yes: I did not like the idea of cutting :no: Thx again!

see 3rd picture of post 161. It allows the castle nut to tighten up just right for the cotter pin location. At least that is what i thought they were for?:D

The four spacers that have a beveled leading edge on one side are supposed to go in between the steering arm and the spindle, to space the steering arm out. You should use a single flat washer on top of each tie rod end to pull the threads all the way up.

Also, you need to put some jamb nuts on the tie rods so you can lock down your tie rod ends once your alignment is done.


T,

Copy that. In my kit it indicated "tie rod spacers" so that is where I used them. They seem to be the perfect thickness. As far as the steering arms go, see post 108, that is the spacer I was provided with for that part. It all seems to be working out. I just got the old stock shock towers off :D now working on the coil over install. Ill put up some more pics soon.

Got the stock shock towers off!!:yes:!! What PITA:mad:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/shocktowers003.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/shocktowers004.jpg

I got the new CPP shock towers on!! Much better design.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPshocktower001.jpg
With shock
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CPPshocktower003.jpg

I also got the bearing and spanner kit with the coil overs. Not sure if it was needed but here it is. CPP did not provide any directions on instalation either:no:. DOes anyone know if this looks correct? Thx!! I probably could of removed the original thin washer but left it in :eek:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/bearingkit001.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/bearingkit002.jpg

The coil overs are on!!! Pretty easy to put in. Not sure where the car is going to sit as it seems much higher:eek: I might need those drop spindles. I guess I will have to wait till she hits the ground!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CoilOvers002.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CoilOvers001.jpg

Looks good JR..............how close is the top of the shock to the mounting surface of the "rainbow towers" or where they bolt to the body? The bearings will help with the ride height adjustments while turning them with the weight of the car on them.

Boy I wish my QA1's had came with these.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/bearingkit001.jpg
Here is mine without drop spindles on it and I can come down a lot more.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0004.jpg
I have the Chevy2Only kit on mine.

Thats promising!!! I will see when I can get the car back on its full weight. My car sat about where yours is with the old springs.

I am goign to need some new bearings for my rotors. The driver side one sounded terrible when I would spin it. It was also very sloppy and loose:eek: I figured since they are apart I might as well get all new bearings. i sure hope the drover side spindle isn't ruined. It looks a little rough where the outside bearing goes? I also do not know what disk brakes these are so finding new bearing might not be easy, any tips here? Thx!!!

Jr, there should be a number of identification on the side of the bearing around the perimeter. Any parts store or bearing supplier can cross reference the number for you.

On another note, if anyone is looking for a stance like Tim's car you may want to consider the Billet steering arm that we have available. Tim's car has the chevelle arms and sits waayy low, however he is using the original rear mount strut rod set up with the stock lower control arms so he was able to dial in a lot of +caster.

You can see the billet steel arms in this photo of Dale's wagon.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1435.jpg

For those reading and waiting to see the outcome of JR's build, which is going very well,there is one thing to remember, and that is, this system was designed around a stock height nova or one with the drop spindles and stock height springs. If you are going to substantially lower your car without drop spindles the new billet steel steering arms are going to be a must. Lowered or stock the new steering arms make a big improvement to the overall performance of the system.

Keep up the good work JR, you are doing an exellant job of narrating your complete install.

Hey Chuck, what is the price of those billet arms?....should start my conversion in a couple of weeks:D

Jr, there should be a number of identification on the side of the bearing around the perimeter. Any parts store or bearing supplier can cross reference the number for you.

On another note, as we have talked about your ride height, if you are looking for a stance like Tim's car you may want to consider the Billet steering arm that we have available. Yes, Tim's car has the chevelle arms and sits waayy low, however he is using the original rear mount strut rod set up with the stock lower control arms so he was able to dial in a lot of +caster.

You can see the billet steel arms in this photo of Dale's wagon.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/IMG_1435.jpg

For those reading and waiting to see the outcome of JR's build, which is going very well,there is one thing to remember, and that is, this system was designed around a stock height nova or one with the drop spindles and stock height springs. If you are going to substantially lower your car without drop spindles the new billet steel steering arms are going to be a must. Lowered or stock the new steering arms make a big improvement to the overall performance of the system.

Keep up the good work JR, you are doing an exellant job of narrating your complete install.

And they look way cool too.

After seeing everything up close and in person on Dale's car, I'm shooting for mid to late summer to get this set-up on mine.

I'm nearing completion of my winter project list one of which was installing the CPP uppers and lowers. It was a clear day (but cold) so I decided to drive my coupe to the club and take a couple pics of my two babies together. The CPP installation was easy and sure makes for a much better handling car!http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaandCoupeMarch1002.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f356/36couper/NovaandCoupeMarch1001.jpg

I'll post a few more in the Profiles section.

Nice Vert.perfect stance

New bearings and steering arms en route:D:D

You getting Churches new steering arms?

-Justin

Why go through all this and still mount the suspension on the upper control arm?

You getting Churches new steering arms?

-Justin

YES!!! They got here yesterday!!!

Why go through all this and still mount the suspension on the upper control arm?

I asked prior to starting the project and got plenty of responses. Most advised that the uppers are more for looks and the lowers make the majority of the difference. I’m sure some will chime in with their experience regarding your question.

I will be back in the garage tomorrow for some car time!!:yes:!! maybe I can get her back on the ground:D

OK. Sorry, I'll start a new thread. BTW your work is appreciated.

YES!!! They got here yesterday!!!

Cool! I got mine yesterday as well, started to paint them as soon as I got them :yes: Mounted mine today. Keep up the good work.

-Justin

OK. Sorry, I'll start a new thread. BTW your work is appreciated.

Sorry? no worries!! I went back and forth about 100 times with the your same question. I think at the begining of this thread there are some answers to your guestion. I had the same:yes: Good luck with your project!

Alright, I am at the point of installing the column and have a few questions.

-can i do this with the header installed? just wondering if a can put it back in or not.
-how do you center the rack? I am guessing that it is better to have it in the center position while dialing in the tie rods. I guess i will need to get a nut or something for the tie rod ends in order to hold the adjustment? I don't think I got these in the kit. I don't think the rack rotates but is it still necessary for the nut?
-how tight to you crank down the castle nuts on the tie rod ends?
-how tight do you crank down on the castle nuts on the rotors? i installed new bearing and have never done this, thx!

Cool! I got mine yesterday as well, started to paint them as soon as I got them :yes: Mounted mine today. Keep up the good work.

-Justin

PAINT?:eek:? oh no, I better go look at mine, what color are they? Thx!!! Its awesome having another similar project going on at the same time. Now just to get ya over here to help complete mine:D later

If you got the steering box out with the header still in the car the column and steering shaft are a piece of cake.Tie rod tight and line up the cotter pin hole never back off the nut to line up the hole always go tighter.Spindle nut you wantto only have snug and the tighten until the cotter pin hole lines up.It is a tappered style brearing that needs to be preloaded slightly to work properly.You do not want any play in the bearings at all and with them packed with fresh grease it is hard to tell if you have no play.Sorry I do not have any real torque specs for this.Mark the sector shaft on the rack rotate all the way one way and count how may turns all the way to the other end of travel and back up 1/2 way and the rack is centered.The jam nuts for the tie rod ends are 14x1.5 I think.I have a few extra if you need some and can not find them locally.

Awesome! Thx! I painted the new steering arms today so I will need to wait till tomorrow to install those:mad: My column is brushed aluminum, unfinished, i think? I guess i will need to prime and paint that toooo. WOW I am not as close as I thought I was. I even have to take the rotors off again to change the steering arms :eek: man I keep jumping the gun:D. I will look for those jam nuts tomorrow at the local auto parts store here in town. Thx again:thumbsup:

Awesome! Thx! I painted the new steering arms today so I will need to wait till tomorrow to install those:mad: My column is brushed aluminum, unfinished, i think? I guess i will need to prime and paint that toooo. WOW I am not as close as I thought I was. I even have to take the rotors off again to change the steering arms :eek: man I keep jumping the gun:D. I will look for those jam nuts tomorrow at the local auto parts store here in town. Thx again:thumbsup:

Have you seen the pics on my thread yet? I think you might have the same one as me, if so its the paintable style column. I was not going to do anything to mine until I painted the inside of the car. I'm wondering if its not a good idea to leave it this way. Lets see if anyone can chime in and tell us.

-Justin

Jr, could you use an open end wrench to reach the steering arm bolts so that you will not have to take the rotor off?

JMDC if you are worried about the column rusting while you are waiting to do the interior you could wipe it with WD-40 until that time comes, just remember to clean it with mineral spirits or thinner before painting it.

Jr, could you use an open end wrench to reach the steering arm bolts so that you will not have to take the rotor off?


I wil try that first:yes: Thx

Got the new CB steering arms ready for paint. I thought about just clearing them, I like the machined look.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/newCBsteeringarms002.jpg

Primed up!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/newCBsteeringarms005.jpg

All done!!! I went with black since all my other stuff is black. Will try to get them on today!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/paintedCBarms001.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/paintedCBarms002.jpg

:wow::wow: Those look GREAT!!

Jr, could you use an open end wrench to reach the steering arm bolts so that you will not have to take the rotor off?

JMDC if you are worried about the column rusting while you are waiting to do the interior you could wipe it with WD-40 until that time comes, just remember to clean it with mineral spirits or thinner before painting it.

Thanks Chuck, I think I would rather paint the column. Any tips for Smittys62 and myself? Should we paint this at home or take to a painter? If painter how much do you think it will cost?

-Justin

I used some semi-gloss black from my local Napa store. I think it was branded as Rust Tuff. It does not require primer, it's pretty nice stuff.

Custome paint is another story it will depend on the color and if you choose basecoat clearcoat or straight enamel. Honestly I would not know what it may cost to have a paint shop do the column. For me I lucked out because the interior was black.

Ya mine is black tooo:D I might just rattle can mine with some of that "Rust Tuff" no primer needed stuff. I saw some at the Ace by my house the other day when I got the paint for the steering arms. I guess I could have just used that on the arms also but since I had primer I just went ahead and primed them. I think I might paint the column tomorrow. Ill post some progress photos when im done. Thx Chuck!!

I did mine in glossy Black. Rust-Oleum. Man do not let the over spray from that stuff get on your car. It is a pain to get off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0010.jpg

I did mine in glossy Black. Rust-Oleum. Man do not let the over spray from that stuff get on your car. It is a pain to get off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Highmark/Dads%20Car/DSC_0010.jpg

Tim your not supposed to paint the column in the car:D:D

Ok, I will look for the Rust Stuff. I know for sure they have Rust Stop.

-Justin

Tim your not supposed to paint the column in the car:D:D

HAHAHAHA Car was way over the other side of the shop covered up all but two spots "I did not see". I liked to never got that stuff off!

HAHAHAHA Car was way over the other side of the shop covered up all but two spots "I did not see". I liked to never got that stuff off!

So that’s how you painted your car black :D Good advise:thumbsup: Thx!

Quick question on the jam nuts. Are they supposed to be sorta tight going on? They screw on to the end about the depth of the nut, then tighten up:confused:. If not, I must not have the correct ones. Thx!

ok dumb questions time...I'm sure this has been answered in other posts, jmdc and others can chime in but I'm not jacking the thread. I dig reading these build ups, makes me motivated to do my car.

question #1...how come you can't use the factory steering arms? can't you switch them around so they work as front steer?

question #2...the columns come brushed aluminum don't they? why would they rust? I thought you can buy them in both finished and ready to paint?

ok thats like 4 questions...sorry:D

ok dumb questions time...I'm sure this has been answered in other posts, jmdc and others can chime in but I'm not jacking the thread. I dig reading these build ups, makes me motivated to do my car.

question #1...how come you can't use the factory steering arms? can't you switch them around so they work as front steer?

question #2...the columns come brushed aluminum don't they? why would they rust? I thought you can buy them in both finished and ready to paint?

ok thats like 4 questions...sorry:D

Question #1 - They are way different. I'm sure someone can give you a better answer.
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/jmdc73/ChurchBoysRacing%20Conversion/DSCF0101.jpg

Question #2 - The columns we got are paintable steel. They do have others

http://www.ididitinc.com/08_catalog/catalogs/volume22/pg33.htm

I hope I answerd your questions. I'm still learning as well.

-Justin

You hit the head on the nail with all of the answers Justin.

Just to emphasize what Justin has said, the stock nova arms are too low and too far forward to line up with the rack, not to mention that when you turn them around they will come very close to hitting the sidewall of the tire, if you flip them forward and switch sides now the little twist in them goes the wrong way.

Yes the columns are a brushed look, but they are steel.

Hey Chuck, When i put on the CPP kit and the CBR kit just what part#'s of headers will actually fit my wagon?......has anybody installed anything other than the usual headers that we normally install?.....just thought i would ask and i dont mean to highjack the thread....thanks:D

Hey Chuck, When i put on the CPP kit and the CBR kit just what part#'s of headers will actually fit my wagon?......has anybody installed anything other than the usual headers that we normally install?.....just thought i would ask and i dont mean to highjack the thread....thanks:D

I would stick with what we know will fit, there might be others but with out having a selection to choose from it might be a costly experiment :yes::yes:

Hooker 2243 fit perfectly.Check the link below and look at the design of the 2243,front tube on each bank goes up and over the rest.Any designed like this should work.JR,Hedman Hustler.There are also a set on e-bay called Vetteteck headers that look like they would work.CBR is also developing a third u-joint type steering shaft to clear other headers such as block huggers.

Hooker 2243 fit perfectly.Check the link below and look at the design of the 2243,front tube on each bank goes up and over the rest.Any designed like this should work.JR,Hedman Hustler.There are also a set on e-bay called Vetteteck headers that look like they would work.CBR is also developing a third u-joint type steering shaft to clear other headers such as block huggers.

I hope I don't have any issues! I have block huggers :eek:

Quick question on the jam nuts. Are they supposed to be sorta tight going on? They screw on to the end about the depth of the nut, then tighten up:confused:. If not, I must not have the correct ones. Thx!

We got a bit off topic for a minute. Can anyone help me with the Jam Nut question above?

It is funny that the header question came up. Just yesterday I asked Chuck the same question. I am looking at a set of Dougs as they don’t hang as low as the Hooker 2243 supercomps. The Dougs look sweet but like VooDoo said, "It could be costly" :eek:


Here are the Dougs I was looking at: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DOU%2DD367Y&N=700+4294923429+4294839039+4294918680+401098+4294 925084+4294908216+4294907681+4294880275+115&autoview=sku

Are you talking about the tie rod jam nuts? If so, yes you need them.If you do not use them it will destroy the inner and outer tie rod end because of the play in the threads.As you drive the road will beat the treads until something fails.If you do not have nuts I have a pair(:D) I can send you.They are 14x1.50 I have been told.

Are you talking about the tie rod jam nuts? If so, yes you need them.If you do not use them it will destroy the inner and outer tie rod end because of the play in the threads.As you drive the road will beat the treads until something fails.If you do not have nuts I have a pair(:D) I can send you.They are 14x1.50 I have been told.


LMAO......you are a bad man........

My rack didn't come with any either, used some old lug nuts off my 2004 GMC truck.....same size........ Took engineering to a whole nother level....:D


T,

Are you talking about the tie rod jam nuts? If so, yes you need them.If you do not use them it will destroy the inner and outer tie rod end because of the play in the threads.As you drive the road will beat the treads until something fails.If you do not have nuts I have a pair(:D) I can send you.They are 14x1.50 I have been told.

Ya!!:D!! I might need those, you know the ones for the rack!!HAHA. I bought a set and they are not the right thread. I am in the process of painting the column and the calipers today. I also put the new CB steering arms on:yes:

Lets see those pics brotha! :turn:

Hooker 2243 fit perfectly.Check the link below and look at the design of the 2243,front tube on each bank goes up and over the rest.Any designed like this should work.JR,Hedman Hustler.There are also a set on e-bay called Vetteteck headers that look like they would work.CBR is also developing a third u-joint type steering shaft to clear other headers such as block huggers.


Here is another picture of how they look with the steering shaft connected, hooker 2243
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad008.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj261/67church/steeringdad005.jpg

Nuts............roasted or salted:o

I guess I should be checking all of the tie rod boxes. JR give me a ring and I'll send them out if you want.


..............Oh! we don't need the pics, keep them to yourself:no:

I have two pairs jam nuts I have robbed off of steering racks if anybody needs them.

Nuts............roasted or salted:o

I guess I should be checking all of the tie rod boxes. JR give me a ring and I'll send them out if you want.



..............Oh! we don't need the pics, keep them to yourself:no:

Chuck, you have any pics of the area inside and out where the ididit column goes through the fire wall? Did you drill a hole in the new column or grind off the notch on the upper column mount? Thx!!!

I have two pairs jam nuts I have robbed off of steering racks if anybody needs them.


I will take a pair. I found some regular ones but no one around here seems to have the "Jam" nuts:mad:. Who ever has the most extra and has the time to send them I would be greatly appreciative:yes:.

We ground down the locator tab. With the clamp at the dash and at the firewall it will not rotate.

Jam nuts.........I will send a set out today.

We ground down the locator tab. With the clamp at the dash and at the firewall it will not rotate.

Jam nuts.........I will send a set out today.

Awesome! back to painting, Thx!!

Well I got the new CB steering arms on!!! Here are a few pics.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CBsteeringarmsandbolts001.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CBsteeringarmsandbolts002.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/CBsteeringarmsandbolts003.jpg

Here they are on the car.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/calipersonafter004.jpg

I also painted those clipers as suggested earlier on in the thread. Thx!!:yes: They look way better now:yes: Now just to do the rotors:eek: where does it end:confused:
B4 shot
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/calipersB4003.jpg
After shot
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/calipersonafter003.jpg

Here are the pics of the column going through the paint booth. It is currently sitting in the garage dying for install. I guess a few days should be good.
Ready 4 paint.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/columnready4paint002.jpg
Primed
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/columnprimed.jpg
Column painted black.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/columnpaintedblack003.jpg

Looking good brotha. I just got done with all my stuff. Now time to start tighting everything up. Keep up the good work! Your almost done. I can't wait to put on the lower A-arms. I will be back here for reference.


-Justin

Boy everything looks great!

Looking good brotha. I just got done with all my stuff. Now time to start tighting everything up. Keep up the good work! Your almost done. I can't wait to put on the lower A-arms. I will be back here for reference.


-Justin

Thx!! Ill be checking your thread for some new pics of the installed column, Can you get some of the floor mount? Also some from the engine bay? Did you have to shave your frame (motor mount) mount for the DD shaft to fit? Cant wait to see them..... Later!!

Okay, Justin or Chuck, how did you guys grind that notch off of the top of the upper column mount? I was thinking of an angle grinder but dont want to destroy the whole interior with debris:eek:. Is there another way that would be a tad cleaner?

I used a high speed air cutter from Harbor Fright (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47077)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/47000-47099/47077.gif

If you are gentle enough you can use a punch and a hammer:eek: yes it can be done all you need to do is flatten it back into its stamped out hole.

We ground down the locator tab. With the clamp at the dash and at the firewall it will not rotate.

Jam nuts.........I will send a set out today.

Got them yesturday!!!:thumbsup: Thx!!:beer: I owe ya one.

Got the tool!!!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/grindertool.jpg

Also got the Jam Nuts!!! Thx Chuck!!:D Now for the toe in and out set up:eek:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/jamnuts.jpg

Got the header back on. Bummer I should of sent it out while it was off for a re coat!:mad:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/headersin001.jpg

Now its time to drop that column in!!! If all goes well it will be back on the ground tomorrow and off to the alignment shop thurs or fri!:yes:!

Sweet takeing mine in tomorrow. Now you have a new tool :D

Good job!

-Justin

Hey Jason thx for the Classic Idustries link, I got my new seal :thumbsup:What screws did you use on that bottom bracket? Its mount up time!!!

I'm assuming your talking to me (Justin) and not some other guy named Jason :rolleyes:. If so here is your answer.

I used self taping hex screws from OSH. 10-16x1-1/4", kind of long so I will need to go back and get some shorter ones but they work for now.

-Justin

OOPS:eek: yes you Justin. Thx, I thought I read somewhere to get #8 self tapers but I think the #10 might be better. Thx!!!

Well I had a few bumps in the road today with the column and DD shaft install. Long story short, a trip to CPP and I got them in...:D I just need to secure the lower column mount in the morning and I should be rollin:yes: Here are some pics from today.

Lower column mount with new seal. I had to put my bolt to the bottom as it seems to fit better.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/columnloose002.jpg

Column at the fire wall. The new seal I got had a small hole where you see the black tape, bummer deal...
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/columnin002.jpg

The DD shaft just barely cleared the motor/frame mount:eek:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/DDshaftandjoint005.jpg

The rack to column, lots of room over there on the driver side now:D
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/CPP%20Church%20Boy%20upgrade/DDshaftandjoint003.jpg

Its on the ground:D Off to the alignment shop in the morning:yes: Now what are the best specs to attempt to achieve here? It is a street cruiser with nto much room at the front fender with the new shoes. Just a few more tweaks and squeaks and the lil 62 should be good for the CPP cruise Sat!!:D!!

Smitty, This is chuck sr. have been following your installation sounds like your haveing fun, the real fun will start when you are driving. just one thing i was looking at your last post and the accentric bolt on the driver should have both accentric washers facing upwards, the accentric on the nut side is facing down, you will be fighting yourself when trying to get the adjusment in. Looking good otherwise:thumbsup:

Wow Dad that is a pretty good eye for an older fellar in glasses:eek: Easy fix JR just take the nut off and flip it................unless the bolt only has one flat milled into it you may have a bummed up washer. You still have the originals eccentric bolts right?

Alignment specs: I sent you an email regarding this however since you are fighting fender lip clearance you may want to go with this:

Camber 0 to -1/4 degree

Caster + 1.5 to +2.0 degree (the more the better)

Toe 1/16 toe "in"

So are you guys going down the shop and giving them the settings you want? I thought the machine did all this for you?

-Justin

The machine will only have spec's for a stock front suspension.You should go with in with Chuck's spec's .My bad we should have mentioned that earlier in the post.

The machine only has reference numbers that were the factory originals. Since we all have radial tires now some of the specs have changed since the 60's and the rack has an affect on the toe as well, you don't need as much toe in.

Smitty, This is chuck sr. have been following your installation sounds like your haveing fun, the real fun will start when you are driving. just one thing i was looking at your last post and the accentric bolt on the driver should have both accentric washers facing upwards, the accentric on the nut side is facing down, you will be fighting yourself when trying to get the adjusment in. Looking good otherwise:thumbsup:

Okay, so both eccentrics should be facing the same way per bolt? I think if they were both down or both up it shouldnt matter?:confused:? Just checking. The front ones seem to bind with the top plate when I tried to install the washer upward, so I went with them down. Is this correct? Thx for looking out.

Wow Dad that is a pretty good eye for an older fellar in glasses:eek: Easy fix JR just take the nut off and flip it................unless the bolt only has one flat milled into it you may have a bummed up washer. You still have the originals eccentric bolts right?

Alignment specs: I sent you an email regarding this however since you are fighting fender lip clearance you may want to go with this:

Camber 0 to -1/4 degree

Caster + 1.5 to +2.0 degree (the more the better)

Toe 1/16 toe "in"

I could not find your e-mail? I think I have my originals but I think these should flip without tooo much trouble?:eek:? I hope. Again, as long as both eccentric washers are facing the same way I should be good, right? Thx again for all the input and advise with this install:thumbsup:

Oh also, while I was out at CPP yesterday I learnt something. I was told that the CPP upper is a tad shorter than the stock and essentially brings the wheel and tire inward. This will help with the that front fender issue that plagues a lot of up with the gen1???:confused:? Sound correct?

As long as you have the washers going the same way you are O.K. and they can be up or down.........................Test drive today?:)

yes Sir!!! enroute alignment shop!!!:yes:

The machine will only have spec's for a stock front suspension.You should go with in with Chuck's spec's .My bad we should have mentioned that earlier in the post.

a good experienced alignment tech will know what to do. He can bypass all the specs given and use a custom or maunal setting to his own liking. Chuck's specs are good. Shouldn't be a problem.

Yo smitty how did that alignment go? Did you make it out to the CPP tour?

-Justin

Yo smitty how did that alignment go? Did you make it out to the CPP tour?

-Justin

Yes I did!! What a blast:yes: Car drove awesome!! Check out OB 67 Nova's post on the cruse thread. Someone got a pick of the front end of my car:cool: I took some pics myself amd will post later.

Hey Chuck there were plenty of people checking out your stuff:yes:

Very nice! Do you happen to have the alignment specs?

-Justin

Looks real good JR, did you get to really drive it hard yet? How would you compair the turning effort to the stock gear box?

Very nice! Do you happen to have the alignment specs?

-Justin

I do have them somewhere. I need to look and see where the heck I put them. I know it is very close to what Chuck recommended.
I think:confused:
Camber -1/4 degree
Caster + 1.5 degree
Toe 1/16 toe "in"
I will confirm once I find the paperwork, sorry:eek:

Looks real good JR, did you get to really drive it hard yet? How would you compare the turning effort to the stock gear box?

I did not drive it real hard yet. Do you know if these springs will settle at all? It is set a tad high for now and will re adjust once I put some more miles on. The turning is way better and it seems a tad easier:yes: despite my new (wider) front tires. Now all there is to do is figure out the wiring harness and get the column wired in....

Once I started the car up for the first time since the upgrade my right blinker was on??:confused:?? There is nothing even connected up to the new column, what the heck?? Why is it on? I had to take the little silver deal off the fuse panel to get it to stop so I could drive it down to the CPP meet. Here are some resent pics I took. Thx everyone for all the help, assistance and advice :grouphug:. If I could do it anyone can, now go out and get your CB front end upgrade!!:yes::thumbsup:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/cbcppdone001.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/cbcppdone002.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/newwheels006.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/newwheels003.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/smittys62/newwheels015.jpg