Air Ride suspension

Ok, here is my problem. Im kinda going backwards. I have an art morrison four link in the back. At the time there were not a lot of possibilities so I went with their four link.

Its a nice setup, for a drag racer. But to be honest, its too narrow for street use. At the time the widest frame was 24" Well that puts my coil overs in too far. I want them out closer to the wheels for control. And the real problem is the pan hard bar. Way to short for street. If I could put a longer one in I would be happy. But the frame rails are in the way.

So I am going to put a Fays Watts link in. The problem is the coil overs are in the way. They are right behind the rear end. Right where the watts link needs to go.

So I need to re-locate the COs. I have room to mount them outboard of the frame. Thats what I am thinking to do. Then I saw Air Ride has some nice looking air springs with shocks. Similar physical size as a coil over, so it will still fit.

So my long drawn out Q is. Anyone here using them? The Shockwave air springs??

I will go to a full air system. The controller (Ride Pro e2) compressor and tank. Front mods to my mustang II for the Shockwaves.

Its not cheap so I wanna get all the info I can.

I could just weld in new mounts for the rear coil overs in the back and install the watts link and be done. But Im thinking for the future. If I do decide to go the air suspension in the future I dont want to have to re-weld mounts specific to them. Maybe should just do it now.

So any advice would be enormous!! I have looked and looked but havent seen much in the way of cars that are out there using the system. Un-biased talk that is.

Thanks for any help guys:))) JR

I don't know if this will help in your situation, but to minimize the cutting and welding on the rearend housing, are you able to go with a diagonal link (between the four-link) to center the housing instead of the panhard bar? This way, all you need to do is bolt in the clevises and only modify the diagonal link bar (if necessary) - they come in a few different lengths, so you might not need to modify the bar at all. It might make things a little less complicated and allow for a direct bolt-in replacement for the coilover shocks to the Shockwave/air-over-shock set up. Just a thought.

Hi, thanks.. The Diagonal links are great for the 1/4 mile track. But not dependable and not recommended for street use. I did look into it though.. I have already talked to Jim at Fays. I really like the watts link setup he has. Going to call Tim over at THR right now.. Thanks, JR



I don't know if this will help in your situation, but to minimize the cutting and welding on the rearend housing, are you able to go with a diagonal link (between the four-link) to center the housing instead of the panhard bar? This way, all you need to do is bolt in the clevises and only modify the diagonal link bar (if necessary) - they come in a few different lengths, so you might not need to modify the bar at all. It might make things a little less complicated and allow for a direct bolt-in replacement for the coilover shocks to the Shockwave/air-over-shock set up. Just a thought.

Hi, thanks.. The Diagonal links are great for the 1/4 mile track. But not dependable and not recommended for street use. I did look into it though.. I have already talked to Jim at Fays. I really like the watts link setup he has. Going to call Tim over at THR right now.. Thanks, JR

Hmmm...I'm not sure what's not dependable, but you could also go with a wishbone centering device. I would just hate to see you warp the housing doing all of the cutting and welding. Good luck.

Hmmm...I'm not sure what's not dependable, but you could also go with a wishbone centering device. I would just hate to see you warp the housing doing all of the cutting and welding. Good luck.

The not dependable part is when used on the street with high side loads, you dont know when they will break. For track use they are fine.

Not gonna be alot of cutting and welding. I will TIG weld two shock mounts for the air springs. The watts link is bolted to the axle. But in my case I will have two available bracket from the old coil over mounts. I may use those instead of the clamps. And Jim is a great guy. We have already discussed several options for the watts link.. Its gonna be pretty bullet proof when done. JR

Hear is a link to the Fays link. A lot of good reading. JR
http://www.fays2.net/

The not dependable part is when used on the street with high side loads, you dont know when they will break. For track use they are fine.

The Watts link should work fine...hopefully you'll have the clearance (ground and chassis). As far as diagonal links go, I've seen plenty of 9 to 7 second cars go sideways, hit guardrails and fold slicks and not bend or break a diagonal link. I've built several 4-link street/strip cars that have not had a diagonal link failure. Especially with how narrow your set up is, the link is pretty short, so it would be pretty hard to bend. Post some photos of the Watts link set up in your car when you can.

The Watts link should work fine...hopefully you'll have the clearance (ground and chassis). As far as diagonal links go, I've seen plenty of 9 to 7 second cars go sideways, hit guardrails and fold slicks and not bend or break a diagonal link. I've built several 4-link street/strip cars that have not had a diagonal link failure. Especially with how narrow your set up is, the link is pretty short, so it would be pretty hard to bend. Post some photos of the Watts link set up in your car when you can.

OUCH!! :) Them damm walls need to stay put.. As for clearance the coil over brackets are the lowest hanging part right now. I'll definitely post some pics of my hack job when done. Folks need a good laugh once in awhile :) Thanks, JR