Upgrade Sequence: R&P vs. Mini Subframe?

I've been very impressed with user comments on both the Church R&P conversion and the CPP Mini subframe kit for 1st/2nd gen cars. However, with a budget limiting one change at a time, I'm looking for opinions on which of these mods to perform first. I'd love to hear from CPP and Church board members as well!

So, which will give me the best immediate bang or the buck?

BTW, I will likely add both products eventually - I'm just looking for opinions on the best first mod.

I would do the CPP kit first with the Church arms.As long as your current steering components are in good shape you will love the improvement in how it drives.If you box is worn out and you need a complete front end rebuild I would recommend saving until you can afford the rack instead if spending all the money to rebuild your existing stuff.This is if you are wanting to do the rack later.You will be impressed with the mini kit either way.Get a plan as to the direction you want to go and stick with it it will save you money in the long run.

I would do the CPP kit first with the Church A-arms.....

If I am not mistaken, you would need to purchase the Church rear stabilzer bars with just the R&P kit, which would eventually come off when you put on the CPP kit.

Be sure and get the crossmember as well, it makes it sooo much easier to just bolt it all on at once. Oh and don't forget the sway bar too........:D


T...

If you are on a tight budget and want to do this one step at a time you can PM me and I can give you some alternatives to think about with pricing.

If your plan is to go with the tubular look and you are to purchase the Church Arms made by cpp then you will need to contact Walt at http://www.classicnova.com
He is the only stocking dealer for these arms. CPP does not sell these directly at the retail store.

I have been working with CPP on a new easy bolt-in rack kit that does not require any special arms or other components. It should be hitting the market here soon- I cant state pricing at this point but it is less than all other kits currently available. Here is the R&D stages: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99296&highlight=official+rack

I have been working with CPP on a new easy bolt-in rack kit that does not require any special arms or other components. It should be hitting the market here soon- I cant state pricing at this point but it is less than all other kits currently available. Here is the R&D stages: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99296&highlight=official+rack

Great idea! Not making the early CPP kit owners have to scrap their existing tubular arms is a great selling feature.

Consider this on my want list. :yes:

I have been working with CPP on a new easy bolt-in rack kit that does not require any special arms or other components. It should be hitting the market here soon- I cant state pricing at this point but it is less than all other kits currently available. Here is the R&D stages: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99296&highlight=official+rack

Thanks, I've read this link. However I do prefer the Church-style front mounted setup. I'd rather use a rear sump oil pan.

Thanks, I've read this link. However I do prefer the Church-style front mounted setup. I'd rather use a rear sump oil pan.

Thats all well and good:yes:. FYI- my rack setup works with rear sump pans.

Thats all well and good:yes:. FYI- my rack setup works with rear sump pans.

Nice rack! :yes:

Will it work with any rear sump pans or only Nova style rear sump pans?Those Notched type pans hang pretty low, any options for guys with lowered cars? Are the brackets you have on the link above the final product? it looks like the bracket on the drivers side does not fit the frame real good and uses the bolts to pull it in to the original box mount.Or is it a camera angle that makes it look like that? How difficult is it to drop the rack out of the way to remove the pan? Can the motor be pulled with the rack in place or do you need to drop the rack first?

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/nova404/Rackmount.jpg

Will it work with any rear sump pans or only Nova style rear sump pans?Those Notched type pans hang pretty low, any options for guys with lowered cars? Are the brackets you have on the link above the final product? it looks like the bracket on the drivers side does not fit the frame real good and uses the bolts to pull it in to the original box mount.Or is it a camera angle that makes it look like that? How difficult is it to drop the rack out of the way to remove the pan? Can the motor be pulled with the rack in place or do you need to drop the rack first?


I am very confident it will work with a standard rear sump pan, but I have not verified yet so I wont give you my word. I am working on testing out some different rack options, then will test fit this kit on a number of oil pans. The rack itself tucks up nice and tight and ground clearance is within 1/4" of my header collectors.

The bracket you pictured fits ok, but was a prototype and I have made and installed another one that fits the framerail better (and looks nicer:yes:).

The rack can be taken out by removing the 4 bolts that fasten the clamps, then the bottom u-joint, and the tie rods. I takes be about 15 minutes to get it out. Its a quick and easy job!:yes: You can remove the engine with the rack in place as it does not protrude into the oil pan notch, but I would take it out because I would not want to risk accidentally hitting it.

Great idea! Not making the early CPP kit owners have to scrap their existing tubular arms is a great selling feature.

Consider this on my want list. :yes:


My thoughts exactly:yes::yes:

If I am not mistaken, you would need to purchase the Church rear stabilzer bars with just the R&P kit, which would eventually come off when you put on the CPP kit.

Thanks to everyone who responded to this post, it was very helpful.

Tom M. makes a great point above - I don't want to have to scrap perfectly good rear-facing stabilizers. This, in addition to the fact that I won't be able to financially do the V8 swap this year (and therefore don't need to worry about V8 oil pans), I called up Walt at Classic Nova and ordered the CPP mini kit with the CBR arms.

Next year I'll do the steering and V8 stuff (God and economy willing). Being an engineer in Michigan, and working for the auto industry, is keeping me from diving too much into my savings... :skull: